26 replies to this topic

[MR77LX]

Hey All,

Im in the process of tidying up my engine bay and i want to know if the proportioning valve can be re-located underneath the car?

I have an R31 diff at rear with its original disc brakes. I have fitted HQ brakes on the front.

However i plan on fitting hopper stoppers (still deciding whether to go 290 or 330) on the front.

The brakes stop fine for now but im in the process of rebuiling my motor.

Any help or advice on re-locating the prop valve would be great.


Thanks

[76lxhatch]

I have 290mm Hoppers front kit with R31 Skyline rears, and discovered that the proportioning valve wasn't necessary with this combination and big tyres - never locks the rears first, but your mileage may vary. I used an earlier/smaller distribution block for the warning light switch and mounted it under the steering column:

(the bit above the steering column is the line locker, shhh) It clears everything nicely and makes it easier to hide the brake lines.

Found a slightly better pic (still not quite cleaned up but you get the idea):


I'm sure you could fit a full sized proportioning valve there somewhere, it doesn't need to be level

[MR77LX]

Thanks mate ... that looks good.

I have an injected motor and I think the headers may get a little close?

The motor is out at the moment getting rebuilt. Im putting a 383 come stroker kit and i thought it would be a good idea to tidy up the engine bay while it�s out.

The distribution block and the line locker where do i get one from? Obviously i also need new brake lines? How much did this set up cost and was it difficult to do?

If i just keep my original prop valve, i just need to modify my lines? Can i buy these lines or do they have to be made to the exact size?

[ls2lxhatch]

I replaced the factory brake fail switch, distbution block and portioning valve with a HQ brake fail switch/distribution block and an adjustable proportioning valve. The HQ brake fail switch was also found on front drum Toranas.

The brake fail switch/distribution block is mounted under the guard where it is accessible if you need to reset the switch after bleeding the brakes. There will be a steel cover over the brake fail switch. I have an adjustable prop valve mounted on the body near the diff lower control arm mount.

The lines in the photos are prototype lines made from steel bundy tube. The final brake lines will either be cunifer or stainless. To make the lines spot in is very time consuming. The tools required to produce good quality double flares without marking the tube are expensive (> $200). The cheapest way out would be to buy your own tube bender (< $100) and make up lines from the steel bundy tube without the flares. Once you have your prototype lines spot on you can then have a length of straight tube flared at a brake shop and bend it up to your sample.

[MR77LX]

Mate you have done a great job.

That looks very neat. What booster and master cylinder is that in the picture?

[dattoman]

That green bundy is so poo to work with

I love the bright steel stuff I have nowdays... so much softer and nicer to play with

But yes... you can move the valve under the guard or somewhere
Viper used to have his under the guard ... think he has a pic somewhere

[ls2lxhatch]

The master is a SSBC A0468-2 1" GM master. I bought the master from Summit Racing.

The booster is a stainless steel 7" hot rod booster I bought from the USA. I have seen them recently on eBay out of QLD.

I have not run the car with this setup so I can not comment on whether or not I have made the right choice on the components. It may be that a 1 1/8" master is a better choice for the Hoppers kit.

Another option is to run the XD Falcon master cylinder with integrated prop valve however rocker cover clearance can be tight with that setup.

I find the green bundy tube easy to flare and bend however I only use it for prototype lines because it is the cheapest and readily available. I am happy to hear that Dattoman has found a supplier for the silver finish tube as it has been difficult to find at times.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 02 August 2010 - 11:09 PM.

[76lxhatch]

I have an injected motor and I think the headers may get a little close?

I haven't had any hassles, the lines are in a very similar spot to where the original rear and front passenger ones go, its all on the chassis rail side of the steering column well and truly away from everything possible.

To make the lines spot in is very time consuming. The tools required to produce good quality double flares without marking the tube are expensive (> $200).

My flare tool set is one that leaves marks (despite being in the vicinity of that price range) but its pretty well hidden by the flare nut - the worst thing is getting a flare tool that will hold it straight enough to get the flare nicely centred. I bet its time consuming doing such an intricate job as you have!

[MRLXSS]

Should people buy their own tube bender and bend the tubes? Or draw up a diagram and get a brake place to make them for you? I'm tossing up what to do as well when my engine comes out.

[dattoman]

Most brake shops won't bend them for you

We don't want you ringing us when your trying to fit them sooking that they aren't right

DIY .... more personal satisfaction

[MRLXSS]

I like DIY!

[ls2lxhatch]

It is best to buy you own bender so you can try out different layouts. The best bender with the smallest radius and closest to flare that I have used is this one from inline tube.



TLB07- Silver Small Radius 3/16 Bender - USD $41.00

[derrin71]

Why not use a early model commodore master cylnder as was used on A9X which has the prop valve built in?

[MR77LX]

The early model commodore cylinder, would that fit straight on?

[ls2lxhatch]

Why not use a early model commodore master cylinder as was used on A9X which has the prop valve built in?

The integrated prop valve master cylinders require a booster with the studs on an angle. The LH/LX Torana booster studs are horizontal. You can convert the Torana booster or fit an alternative booster.

I did have a Ford XD master cylinder with an integrated prop valve like the A9X and the late UC setup, I listed it as an option above. The A9X style is easier to plumb however clearance between the VN rocker covers or LS2 coils and the brake lines is marginal. Clearance is not a problem with the Torana rocker covers. The prop valve is not adjustable.


From this thread.


From this thread.


Personally I prefer the look of the setup I have, the adjustable prop valve is a bonus.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 03 August 2010 - 08:02 PM.

[dattoman]

These are good benders too

For tight ones

http://cgi.ebay.com/...omotiveQ5fTools

[MR77LX]

I should have used the earlier cylinder. Im not sure what to do now cause I have already bought and fitted a new torana master cylinder.

[derrin71]

I should have added that i also used the booster off a early model comodore as well. You just need to remove the bracket off the back and it bolts straight onto the firewall. Got my setup off a V8 VK from the wreckers.

[MR77LX]

So the vk v8 booster fits straight on and what about the lines.... do you have to fabricate them?

Do you have to take the pressure valve out or it would not have one cause it�s got discs at the back?

[Statler]

I used the XD m/c on a previous build. The bolt holes are horizontal, like the torana.
The fittings are different, but you are running new lines anyway!

[derrin71]

You need to fabricate new lines for the front brakes, from memory the rear one fits with a little rebend, you also need to cut the fittings off the commodore lines and use them as i believe they are metric as opposed to imperial thread on the torana system. If you get a booster and master of a V8 this will work with 4 wheel discs as all V8 commodore's had this. Don't quote me on this but i believe that all commodore's from VB to VP without ABS used a similar Master Cylinder/Booster arrangement.

[dattoman]

Easy on the bum steers boys

Read this

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=36066

XD MAster is diagonal mount like a Commonwhore

[Statler]

XD MAster is diagonal mount like a Commonwhore

I disagree... but it was a while back.

I know the XE onwards used the diagonal mount, but i don't know if there was a change throughout the XD series.

I used the XD m/c [as i said], with an adjustable push rod [which we never adjusted], & it passed the road test brake inspection for the mod plate.

I crawled over the catalogues from a local brake specialist, trying to find a m/c with the same dimensions as the torana, but with the onboard proportioning valve. The XD item matched.

Only problem was the small engraving ontop of the m/c cap.

Edited by Statler, 04 August 2010 - 10:20 AM.

[ls2lxhatch]

Statler, can you post up a picture and part number.

The master cylinder in the blue engine bay above is also an XD master cylinder. The one above definitely is on a diagonal.