Pictures or Diagrams of LC / LJ Torana CRS Chassis Kit
#1
Posted 12 August 2010 - 02:26 PM
#2 _tyre fryer_
Posted 12 August 2010 - 05:25 PM
#3 _stock LC_
Posted 12 August 2010 - 10:20 PM
Cheers ben:)
#4 _Machine_
Posted 13 August 2010 - 12:07 AM
U can give c.r.s a yell and they will fax/send a copy to you iirc.
If they will let me know and if not let me know =)
#5
Posted 24 July 2011 - 10:35 AM
I am in the process of installing a CRS chassis kit to my LC. I am finding that alignment of the components to be a real issue. Let me start by saying even though I am trying to fit these parts to a 41 year old, I am 99% confident that my car has never been in a big accident. There is some evidence of collision damage around the left hand rear tail light, but other than that the body is in excellent condition. Further to this, my car has been a stock 6 all of it's life. It has never had a high performance engine sitting in between the front rails that might have twisted the chassis in some way. Now, onto the problem at hand.
Alignment of the CRS rails (front to rear) is quite good. I can get the rails to line up fairly easily with the front outrigger bolt hole and the front bolt hole for the rear lower arm. However, when these holes are aligned, I get about 4-5mm gap between the rear 'C' section bracket on both sides. See photos below.
I am thinking that I will have to pack this gap with washers to maintain the alignment of the CRS rail with the front and rear bolt holes. If I don't pack the gap I suspect that some twisting or 'bendage' will occur when I tighten the vertical bolts that go through the holes in this 'C' section bracket.
To make matters worse, the rear cross brace that links these two 'C' section brackets together does not fit between the rails. It is as though the cross bracet is 4-5mm too wide. To get it to fit I think that I am going to need to remove the right angled end, shortening the square tube by 4-5mm and then reweld the end back onto the cross brace.
Is there a recommneded sequence when tightening the bolts for the chassis strengthening kit? The instructions supplied with the kit are a disgrace. They contain very little information that is actually useful or informative. The poor grammer makes it very hard to comprehend and the hand drawn sketch look like it was done by a kindergarten kid. Not very professional and not what you would expect when paying $1500 for a kit designed by 'engineers'.
I would appreciate some advice from those more knowledgeable than me
#6
Posted 24 July 2011 - 10:47 AM
I agree that the instructions are poo.
I'll be interested to see what others have to say.
#7
Posted 24 July 2011 - 12:59 PM
Hybrid, you have the additional risk factor of your rear clip change which may have moved a few body and chassis points around.
Remember it wouldnt be an aftermarket torana part if it didnt need modifying to get it to fit!!!
Persevere, its worth it in the end.
#8
Posted 24 July 2011 - 01:26 PM
#9 _Viper_
Posted 24 July 2011 - 03:13 PM
#10
Posted 24 July 2011 - 03:50 PM
I have the same kit, and my issue is getting it to sit flush against the firewall where it comes up in the wheel arch.
I haven't got to that part yet. I have n't specifically looked at it to see if it is sitting flush with the firewall, but from memeory it looked like a close fit on my car. I'll check it and over the next week and let you know.
The kit probably isnt the issue, holden build kwality is the most likely suspect.
Hybrid, you have the additional risk factor of your rear clip change which may have moved a few body and chassis points around.
Remember it wouldnt be an aftermarket torana part if it didnt need modifying to get it to fit!!!
Persevere, its worth it in the end.
Good point Rexy. I hadn't thought of build variation. Not sure what you mean by 'rear clip change' though. It has been minitubbed and had a 9" conversion, but it still uses all of the original suspension mounting points. All of the rear suspension mounting points on the body have had plates TIG welded around them to box them up. I will perserve with it - I have to. My engineer has told me I need a chassis kit, so it will be fitted.
I will be fitting mine up in a few weeks and hope there's no similar prob's, But personaly I would be putting flate plate steel spacers to take up the slack as an engineer would probably frown upon the use of washers,
I have been taking photos as I have been going along so let me know if you get stuck. Fitting plates instead of washers is another good suggestion. Thanks for the tip.
I bought a CRS chassis kit for my LH bout 5 years ago... Instructions were useless but it was pretty straight forward and mine bolted straight up from memory... And im pretty sure it was only $700?
The LH/LX kit is cheaper as it has fewer components in the kit (I think). There aren't as many components in the LH/LX kit because LH/LXs usually have less power than LCs and LJs so they don't tend to twist the chassis as much!!
#11
Posted 24 July 2011 - 05:59 PM
[/quote]
HHMM like most things for LC-LJ Toranas they're a damn sight dearer to buy than the similar parts to suit LH-LX ((Not counting UC as nobody touches those aweful things)) The LC-LJ parts must be because they're a much more Gooder & Popular Model of Auto-Mobile, Oh Plus what Hybrid said they have heaps more OOMPH.......
#12 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 24 July 2011 - 07:52 PM
#13 _Agent 34_
Posted 25 July 2011 - 08:03 PM
#14
Posted 27 July 2011 - 09:47 AM
As stated before each vehicle that rolled of the line was most probably a bit different here and there.
As for the instructions that were supplied with the kit....... dont get to worried as they were totally crap and i didnt really look at them.
Instalation was fairly straight forward (I did it over a pit) and didnt have any real dramas but from memory we had to do a bit of jigging around to get a better fit where the plate follows the chasis rail up into the front wheel well.
I think that the kit is a bit on the pricey side but if its going to be registered its most probably easier to just splash the cash and be done with it.
If i was building a race car i think i would fab something myself.
#15 _shan620_
Posted 12 August 2011 - 11:44 PM
#16
Posted 18 September 2011 - 11:02 PM
My current drama is getting the front cross member reinstalled. It now seems to be at least 10mm too wide to fit between the rails. I have fitted new bushes to the cross member too, so that wouldh help things. Anyone got any tips for this part? I think I read some time ago that someone put a ratchet strap or similar around the outriggers to pull them in so it could fit between the rails. Are there anyother tried and tested methods?
Edited by Hybrid, 18 September 2011 - 11:03 PM.
#17 _Viper_
Posted 19 September 2011 - 09:26 AM
Another trick is to get a really thin peice of plastic etc, like a bog spreader spatula and put it between the chassis and the bush off the crossmember. This stops the bush from getting stuck. Sorry I know that's a bad description if someone has a pic they could post it would make sense straight away
#18
Posted 19 September 2011 - 09:32 AM
#19 _Viper_
Posted 19 September 2011 - 07:40 PM
#20 _shan620_
Posted 19 September 2011 - 11:10 PM
#21 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 20 September 2011 - 08:45 AM
#22
Posted 20 September 2011 - 09:32 AM
I have a certain coupe shell that is screaming for some straight six, DOHC, 20psi love.
#23 _shan620_
Posted 20 September 2011 - 10:31 PM
#24 _shan620_
Posted 21 September 2011 - 06:23 PM
http://s399.photobuc... for LC torana/
#25 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2011 - 06:30 PM
Added to the list of things to make.
Cheers.
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