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3000 rpm till charge light goes out

Started by Torryhead , Sep 08 2010 07:06 PM

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10 replies to this topic

#1 Torryhead

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Name:Dan
Location:Hollister, CA
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Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:06 PM

hey guys, at it again.

got an issue where i start the car up but need to rev it to somewhere around 3-4000 rpm to get the alt to kick in and the charge light to go out. with engine running/ idling the charge light stays on and the volt meter shows the 12- 13 battery volts. after a nice solid rev, the light goes out and 'wham' the volt meter goes off the clock. the alt is a newer style universal one thats on my Chev. it has the stud for the battery cable to charge etc and 2 spades terminals 1 and 2. i asked the boys at castlemain auto to give me a wiring diagram and was told to connect lead for battery charge light to terminal 1 and a +12v ign source to terminal 2 i assume for excitation.

so what do you think, why such high revs to enable alt to charge?

once the alt has kicked in, it charges at idle like it should.

Torryhead

Edited by Torryhead, 08 September 2010 - 07:09 PM.

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#2 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:24 PM

Worn brushes. The regulator and brushes are integrated (the black box on the back of the alternator). Replace and you will be right, just check that the bearings aren't too worn in the alternator.

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#3 Torryhead

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 07:33 PM

shit really! the alt is BRAND new! and it looks as though the regulator is built in. is doesnt have the black box on the back like you see on commodores etc. just a 6mm stud and 2 spade connections. can show you a pic if you like.

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#4 _Quagmire_

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 09:03 PM

might b a earth problem

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#5 S pack

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:08 PM

I can't understand why they told you to run a switched +12v power source to spade terminal #2. Did you install a wire to #2 terminal and connect it into the ignition circuit or did you only connect pre existing wires that were connected to your old alternator?

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#6 _LEE_

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:09 PM

edit: nevermind, misread the post, I too have had this issue and gave it away

Edited by LEE, 08 September 2010 - 11:12 PM.

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#7 Torryhead

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 12:44 AM

alright i'm confused, do you want me to disregard what S pack said Lee? either way everything is new. i have completey rewired the complete engine bay back to the original firewall plugs which i have also replaced with a new style. the engine is new also and was supplied with the alternator. i sent pictures of the alt to the guys at castlemain who were supplying some wire etc. they said to wire it that way.

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#8 S pack

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 02:01 AM

Hi Dan

Connecting switched +12 volt power back to the alternator doesn't sound right. With an internal regulator you should only need to connect 2 wires to the alternator (unless there's something special about that alternator?). One wire from the bolt type terminal (marked Batt) to supply charge to the battery and the generator warning light wire to one of the spade connectors.

I would suggest disconnecting the 12 volt wire from the #2 connector and see what happens.

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#9 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 06:25 AM

Dam I racked my brain but can't rmember what i did to fix it when i put my injected motor into my LC... I went to an auto sparky and said everything was wired correct but did I excite it.... I looked blankly and so I have to excite my... I thought it was meant to do that for me... anyways i did as he instructed and bingo everything started working fine.
Maybe someone can confirm if this is correct?

Edited by NZ Toranaman, 09 September 2010 - 06:25 AM.

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#10 _torbirdie_

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:17 AM

hey guys, at it again.

got an issue where i start the car up but need to rev it to somewhere around 3-4000 rpm to get the alt to kick in and the charge light to go out. with engine running/ idling the charge light stays on and the volt meter shows the 12- 13 battery volts. after a nice solid rev, the light goes out and 'wham' the volt meter goes off the clock. the alt is a newer style universal one thats on my Chev. it has the stud for the battery cable to charge etc and 2 spades terminals 1 and 2. i asked the boys at castlemain auto to give me a wiring diagram and was told to connect lead for battery charge light to terminal 1 and a +12v ign source to terminal 2 i assume for excitation.

so what do you think, why such high revs to enable alt to charge?

once the alt has kicked in, it charges at idle like it should.

Torryhead

There are two spade terminals that aren't labelled, have you measured the resistance between them? they may indeed be just a dual connection. Otherwise experiment with only the charge light connected to either one of them, dont know about alternators having to be connected up to 12V from the ignition

When you say the voltmeter goes of the clock, what voltage is that? over 15V?

Sounds more probable that there is a problem with the internal regulator initially not responding then not regulating according to specs.

Edited by torbirdie, 09 September 2010 - 07:20 AM.

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#11 _fryzem_

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 06:41 PM

gday mate. the alternator you have is a copy of a chev delco type. they are renowned for having issues, you would be better off with a bosche but you have what you have.
it uses the ignition feed as a sensor for the regulator and the warning light wire goes to the other. now by the sounds of it the reg might actually be crook. if you have both of those wires connected thats my guess. just to let you know also those alternators only have a needle roller rear bearing so dont tighten your belt too much otherwise it will fail.
cheers james
switched on auto electrics
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