12 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

G'day all,

I recently posted a question on whether or not you can slot a connected 304i and T5 into a LX in one go, and proved that indeed you can, however the first time I had the engine sitting on the mounts, I noticed the gearbox was pointing to the passenger side. Quite a lot. It was the second and third time I tried re-fitting the engine too, as I was thinking I had something skewing it that way. Before I set a few new world swearing records installing it a fourth time (the most in one minute, the most colourful, the most frequent, etc), I had a good look at the crossmember and it finally clicked that the crossmember mounts weren't factory, someone had welded them on. Not only that, but the drivers side mount was sitting an inch shy of the front of the plate, whereas the passengerside was flush. Jee-zuz.

 _DB_8155.JPG   1.25MB   7 downloads

Before I go any further, could you guys please help me to:

1. Identify the crossmember (the car was orginally a four cylinder Sunbird, however I thought it is the same crossmember)  _DB_8151.JPG   1.31MB   6 downloads
2. Explain why someone would do this (it did have a 350 Chev block sitting in it when I bought it)
3. Tell me if the fix I have decided on - having someone re-weld the driver's side mount in the correct position - is the best option and
4. If anyone knows a trustworthy welder in the Hornsby NSW area who could do a good job.

Sooo glad I wanted to fit everything up and get it running before I touched the paint... Thanks in advance.

[76lxhatch]

It appears to be the factory cross member for a four cylinder Opel engine, these had differing mounts to Starfire four, six and eight cylinder engines.

The best fix would be to get the correct cross member. Having the mounts re-welded may work, but having seen the crummy adapters that Rare Spares sell, there isn't quite enough space available to do it properly without cutting a bit more out of the original mounts. Someone who knows what they are doing could easily replicate the correct/original mounts after cutting the existing ones off completely - that may be a good option, see if you can find a photo or I will take one for you tomorrow.

[ls2lxhatch]

The LH/LX/UC 4 cyl Starfire, 6 cyl and V8 k-frames are all basically the same. The only significantly different k-frame is the one used with the Opel 4 cyl which has different engine mounts. It looks like you have a modified opel 4 cyl k-frame.

Pictures from parts manual.

The bracket in view A is welded to the k-frame for the Starfire 4 cyl, 6 cyl and V8.


Bracket part #7 in this picture is welded to the k-frame to mount the Opel 4 cyl motor.

[FastEHHolden]

opel fronts are an inch wider across the mounts...and are the front end you need for a 350 install...solution is just get another front end

[SmacT]

It's been said before, but I'll say it again - this forum rocks!

Thanks fellas, though it wasn't the news I wanted, re-welding would have been cheaper. Maybe. If anybody has a V8 crossmember for sale please PM me, I'll hit up EvilBay and keep an eye out on the For Sale section of the forum. My wife has our third on the way, and I need the running gear in and going before the new addition arrives and removes any skerick of spare time I have left... :-)

Thanks again.

Oh, and I now have a good crossmember for sale to suit a 350 Chev install... :-)

[Statler]

It is a whole lot easier if you just cut the Opel mounts off & weld on some 6cyl mounts.

You don't even need to remove the x-member.

[76lxhatch]

^ That's exactly the kind of pic I was talking about, can't be too hard to chop the old mounts off and fabricate some new ones in the correct style. Depends how cheap you can get your hands on another cross member though

[SmacT]

Ok, sounds like I have two options. I am going to go for both, and whichever works out first i'll go for. Typically, I can't find a suitable crossmember anywhere when generally they are relatively common, but will keep an eye out. Rare Spares the best place for engine mounts? Will ring them tommorrow. Pretty sick of the engine NOT being in the car... To make up for this hassle, I stripped, primed and primer filled my brake booster instead.

Mild relief. :-)

Thanks everyone for your help.

[Statler]

Any 6cyl or V8 x-member [4cyl starfire even] will be good for a pair of donor mounts.

Why not put an ad in the wanted section?
You might find a forumer with a bent x-member, but good mounts!

Just a note: I've always been led to beleive that if you were building a front end, then the 4cyl x-member is the prefered option.
The reasoning is..... the x-member has only had a light engine bouncing up/down on the mounts & causing less stress to the unit,over the past 30+yrs, & hopefully hasn't 'sagged'.

Apparently the V8 x-members have a reputation of 'sagging' across the chassis mounts.

A quick check with a tape will reveal all.

If there is no major damage to the x-member itself [no big dents or wrinkles], then i suggest you weld on a pair on mounts to your x-member.
it's soooooo much nicer to be able to align the mounts! ... & not rely on the factory alignment.

The bolts go in much easier & it's a cruisier kind of job!

[SmacT]

Good idea Statler, I'll put out the call.

I actually had the whole four cylinder thing in mind when I bought the car, reckoning a four cylinder probably had less chassis damage than a V8 - stands to reason it has been under less stress than hotter cars, However...who knows what previous owners had done to it. The crossmember is in great nick, so I'll try and stick with it. Pretty keen to get it happening, hope I don't have to wait too long to find a set.

[Guns n roses]

how did you go with this??what would be the best way to line up the 2 mounts so the v8 can be bolted in and not havin hassles of it being out of whack!!

[Statler]

how did you go with this??what would be the best way to line up the 2 mounts so the v8 can be bolted in and not havin hassles of it being out of whack!!

A bare block, a gearbox, & x-member.

Happy days.