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#26 76lxhatch

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Posted 13 October 2010 - 04:53 PM

... and started cutting:
DSCN0671.jpg
The outer guard is cut to the finished height I want, and some extra left on the inner guard to fold up to it.

After massaging/stretching the inner guard up to the outer guard and tacking (without pulling on the outer guard):
DSCN0672.jpg

I was hoping the corner shown would stretch far enough without cutting, but it wouldn't. So I made a cut in the middle of it, and everything came together:
DSCN0674.jpg

You can see the gap created by the cut here, I will weld a small filler piece into that hole. You can also see how (once I've welded and cleaned everything up) there will be a reasonably flat surface at the top just in case the tyre still occasionally makes contact, hopefully it won't cut it.
DSCN0678.jpg

And a final shot showing the clearance with the flare, I'm happy that it should be ample.
DSCN0682.jpg
As noted above the flare still needs some modifying and a bracket to hold it out a little further.

Will finish welding it at some stage, that will be a slow process so hopefully no warping! I'll probably tidy up the two bottom corners of the cut first too so the line is a little smoother, you won't see them under the flare but I'll know...

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:46 PM.


#27 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 13 October 2010 - 05:10 PM

coming along nicely good work i like how you have taken the extra effort to make the area under flare nice and tidy even if its not seen after at least u know its done right ive seen a few examples where there is still a big gap there looks dodge as

#28 76lxhatch

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Posted 13 October 2010 - 06:09 PM

Thanks, I was quite disappointed when I first saw how butchered the hatch ones are and they are bloody difficult to work with once a mess has been made, so I want to do this one properly

#29 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 October 2010 - 01:10 PM

Finished welding and cleaned up the guard, came out ok
DSCN0691.jpg

DSCN0692.jpg

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:46 PM.


#30 tsn007

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Posted 14 October 2010 - 04:27 PM

Great work

Attention to detail is awesome !

Will there be a need to cut the rear door away as well for clearance issues?

#31 _Quagmire_

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Posted 14 October 2010 - 04:52 PM

coming along nicely good work i like how you have taken the extra effort to make the area under flare nice and tidy even if its not seen after at least u know its done right ive seen a few examples where there is still a big gap there looks dodge as

they wheren't orgional race car ones?
back in the day i read that harry did it "quick and dodgey" and the best way to tell a fake was look under the guards
if it was neat and clean chances are you had a rep

sorry for the Posted Image
the car looks good so far btw

Edited by Quagmire, 14 October 2010 - 04:53 PM.


#32 76lxhatch

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Posted 14 October 2010 - 08:58 PM

Will there be a need to cut the rear door away as well for clearance issues?

Yes I'll cut a small chunk out of the door to match the cut in the guard, hopefully that turns out tidy too because it will be quite visible with the door open

#33 76lxhatch

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 08:13 PM

Fixed some minor rust in the door, removed the trim around the window and cut off the things that hold it on there (it won't be going back on). Cut the door edge for wheel clearance:
DSCN0708.jpg

and mucked around with trimming the flare and added a couple of brackets to get the angles right and make sure everything sits in the right place
DSCN0714.jpg
DSCN0717.jpg

Had to sit a wheel up in there to see how it looks:
DSCN0719.jpg
The clearance to the front and rear of the guard is good, and there is around 70mm between the tyre and top of guard as it sits in the photo, which should be ample for suspension travel; I like the height of the wheel about here too.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:47 PM.


#34 _2wild4u_

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Posted 17 October 2010 - 10:10 PM

nice, seems to be coming along nicely, keep up the good work

#35 _miro05_

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Posted 18 October 2010 - 05:36 PM

once finished should look awesome

#36 76lxhatch

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 06:40 PM

Waterblasted the cross member, cleaned it up and painted it
DSCN0731.jpg

Also started fishing through my various piles of suspension and brake parts for the best combination. Will use UC upper control arms and steering arms to get the RTS caster, and front brakes will be reduced diameter (12mm smaller than HQ, 8mm larger than Torana) HQ discs on Torana stubs with early HQ calipers
DSCN0729.jpg

Cleaned up the control arms, and removed the ball joints and bushes from the top arms. One of the top arms had a little tweak which was easily fixed but the pivot wasn't so good:
DSCN0730.jpg
It has quite a bend at the end on the right side of the photo - luckily I have a spare or two laying around that are straight because this one's bin material now

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:47 PM.


#37 76lxhatch

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 03:14 PM

Been a bit slack lately, too many other vehicles to work on!

Got back into it last weekend, the plan was to give the underside a quick wire brush so I could throw some paint at it but one thing leads to another and its three quarters of the way stripped back to bare metal...
Underbody.jpg

Looking forward to spending a bit more time on it over the Christmas break with a bit of luck

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:47 PM.


#38 _nicko61_

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 04:20 PM

looking real good so far, subscibed to this as im very interested in the brake set ups some of you blokes come up with. and the flares jobs, i saw lots of SLR5000.and A9X's when younger but unfortuneatly i never took photo's of the hack jobs that were done to original cars at the factory.
but i can tell you they were very rough looking ,
just wondering though ,where your flare ends at door gap and door flare starts you have a end flap to body ,wont that be smashed if wheel goes up into guard when you hit a pot hole .

Edited by nicko61, 03 December 2010 - 04:27 PM.


#39 76lxhatch

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 08:53 PM

just wondering though ,where your flare ends at door gap and door flare starts you have a end flap to body ,wont that be smashed if wheel goes up into guard when you hit a pot hole .

I think you are talking about what this pic shows?
DSCN0717.jpg

You can see above that I cut a bit out of the ends, they originally curved the other way (more in toward the wheel). However its not a major issue, as the only time the wheels tend to sit right up into the guard is one side at a time when the diff rolls, and this action is likely to see the outside edge of the tyre further in at the metal area. Take a look up inside some guards of low flared Toranas and you'll notice that any rubs are usually just inside the original guard, they don't get very close to the flare. I've got rub marks on the hatch to prove it...

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:47 PM.


#40 _nicko61_

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Posted 03 December 2010 - 11:33 PM

no worries, i was just not sure

#41 _tim_pato_

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 05:41 AM

nice project, i wish my starting point was as tidy as yours, look forward to watching your progress.

#42 Stinga

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 02:21 PM

looking good so far! are they the wheels yor going to use?

#43 76lxhatch

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 07:00 PM

Yes I'm hoping to use these wheels, just not 100% sure whether the offset of the rears is going to suit as yet, will have to put the diff back in and try it at some stage. Planning to paint the recesses black with the faces raw alloy similar to how most hotwires are done.

#44 76lxhatch

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 07:05 AM

Spent a bit of time on it the other day, stripped a bit more of the paint off the floor pan in the tricky spots, knocked out a few little dents etc. The driver side chassis rail had the usual dent from careless jacking which I hadn't planned to fix, but the passenger side was perfect so I couldn't leave it alone.

Before:
Chassisrailbefore.jpg

After:
Chassisrailafter.jpg

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:48 PM.


#45 _nial8r_

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 07:41 AM

i had a good one like that in my R/H rail too, had to tac a heap of washers to the dent and pull it out with the slide hammer. yours has come up very well too Posted Image

#46 _mickss_

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 08:08 AM

Coming along nicely.

#47 76lxhatch

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 07:05 PM

nial8r I tried that but I'm not patient enough so I cheated and cut a window in the floor ;-)

A little more progress...

Fixed some rust in the front of the driver side sill, before:
DSCN0777.jpg
and after:
DSCN0780.jpg

Also chopped the firewall seam on the driver side, and pushed the edge back a few mm for wheel clearance at hard lock:
DSCN0787.jpg
(you can see how far forward the original seam protruded by the bit at the top of the pic)
welded and undersealed:
DSCN0790.jpg

Also tidied up the underbody enough to start putting some paint on today:
DSCN0798.jpg
the same black will go over the existing underseal in the wheel wells/guards also once I've cleaned it up a bit

Hopefully get a few things tidied up tomorrow then it will be ready to spin around and do the rear windscreen rust, guard chop and firewall seam on the passenger side

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 10:48 PM.


#48 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:27 PM

Been looking forward to seeing some of your work, very neat & it shows you have alot of pride in your workmanship.

#49 76lxhatch

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 10:59 PM

It looks neat because I haven't shown any photos of the welding before grinding... :P

Thanks for the kind words

#50 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 29 December 2010 - 04:57 AM

Sometimes we are our own worst critics, & you have to break a few eggs to bake a cake. Your repair to the rear windscreen aperture is impressive & really shows your pride & skill. I know tradesman panel beaters with over 25 years experience who couldn't match your repair in it's raw state even with a layer of bog. Again, very nice work.




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