Hi
Im helping my mate pull down his LC sedan. We got the rear doors off fine but the fronts are a paint in the bum.
I have a meatal bar with a fork that iv been trying to hit out but the hinge does not want to move.
Sadly unlike later LH-UC toranas the front gaurds are welded in so i cant even get in from behind to hit the hinge out.
WD40 has not moved anything and only other option i can think of is to heat up the hinge with an oxy then belt hinge out.
Anyone got any tips before my mate burns it or does something silly.
Chears Neil
Removing LC front doors
Started by
Neils LX
, Oct 12 2010 05:44 PM
20 replies to this topic
#1
Neils LX
-
- Members
-
- 2,074 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:a
- Location:North west NSW
- Joined: 18-March 07
Posted 12 October 2010 - 05:44 PM
#2
_SnotGobbler_
_SnotGobbler_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 October 2010 - 06:41 PM
lolol
im glad youve asked this question, im in the same boat for my LJ. pins are pretty tight... doors need to come off soon
will be watching for any hints
im glad youve asked this question, im in the same boat for my LJ. pins are pretty tight... doors need to come off soon
will be watching for any hints
#3
_BATHURST-32D_
_BATHURST-32D_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 October 2010 - 06:45 PM
get a set of vice grips, lock them to the pins, then use a hammer with a socket extension bar, it want hurt to spray some inox on them first and give them a twist with the vice grips.
ps make sure one person holds the vice grips out strait.
cheers gong
ps make sure one person holds the vice grips out strait.
cheers gong
Edited by BATHURST-32D, 12 October 2010 - 06:46 PM.
#5
Neils LX
-
- Members
-
- 2,074 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:a
- Location:North west NSW
- Joined: 18-March 07
Posted 12 October 2010 - 08:06 PM
Bout time you joined shan620, you should throw up some pics of the beast up here http://www.gmh-toran...hp?showforum=23
Thank gong, shan and i shall give it another go.
Chears Neil
Thank gong, shan and i shall give it another go.
Chears Neil
#6
Bazza
-
- Members
-
- 4,295 posts
ǝɹnʇxıɟ ɯnɹoɟ
- Location:Outer Melb West Vic
- Car:ɐuɐɹoʇ
- Joined: 11-November 05
Posted 12 October 2010 - 08:40 PM
#7
Neils LX
-
- Members
-
- 2,074 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:a
- Location:North west NSW
- Joined: 18-March 07
Posted 12 October 2010 - 08:55 PM
Thanks Bazza, i tried a search but not not have looked hard enough.
#8
_Mike73_
_Mike73_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 October 2010 - 02:01 PM
Hi,
the first mistake most people make is to remove the riverted pin that attatches the check strap, this is not necessary unless the pin is worn.
To remove chack strap from door just remove spring inside door then unbold the two 1/4 " bolts and take away the roller mecanism.
The hinge pins are a real headache which I have done battle with since the early 1980's when I rebuilt my first Torana.
The Holden workshop manual shows a large bar with a slot in it ( a small bar would be less effective ) of course this only works if the pin is not rusted in.
WD 40 can help ( sometimes ) and the pin can be started of course by placing a large flat edge bar against the smaller end and offset striking it but you must be sure not to mushroom the end of the pin or it will never come out!
Rusted pins are a real problem and heating is one option that many resort to, but be careful as the pins will be in a weaker state when hot, it usually better to quench them and work then cold.
There are a couple of sources that supply replacement door seals, the one in Queensland I can recommend.
Yet other people cut the hinge off on the car side of the hinge, I would be trying other options before doing this myself.
Sometimes the pins are broken in the middle and unless you can get a right angle drill in and drill them out, about the only option would be to cut the hinge off!
Mike
the first mistake most people make is to remove the riverted pin that attatches the check strap, this is not necessary unless the pin is worn.
To remove chack strap from door just remove spring inside door then unbold the two 1/4 " bolts and take away the roller mecanism.
The hinge pins are a real headache which I have done battle with since the early 1980's when I rebuilt my first Torana.
The Holden workshop manual shows a large bar with a slot in it ( a small bar would be less effective ) of course this only works if the pin is not rusted in.
WD 40 can help ( sometimes ) and the pin can be started of course by placing a large flat edge bar against the smaller end and offset striking it but you must be sure not to mushroom the end of the pin or it will never come out!
Rusted pins are a real problem and heating is one option that many resort to, but be careful as the pins will be in a weaker state when hot, it usually better to quench them and work then cold.
There are a couple of sources that supply replacement door seals, the one in Queensland I can recommend.
Yet other people cut the hinge off on the car side of the hinge, I would be trying other options before doing this myself.
Sometimes the pins are broken in the middle and unless you can get a right angle drill in and drill them out, about the only option would be to cut the hinge off!
Mike
#9
_BATHURST-32D_
_BATHURST-32D_
-
- Guests
Posted 13 October 2010 - 06:10 PM
step by step pics on how to remove your lc/lj doors.
these are the tools you will need to complete the job
step 1
using a 7/16 spanner take the 3 bolts out of the check trap mecanism
step 2
soak both pins with INOX
step 3
take your long bar and give the top of the pinhead a hit until it is level with the hinge
step 4
now spray some more INOX in the hole, and take a pair of vice grips and twist side to side,,some times you may need to bang the pin back in so the INOX works its wonders
step 5
now take your long rod and a hammer and give it a wack
now your pin should be half way out
step 6
now repeat the same thing on the bottom one but this time use the shorter rod,, only this time while your mate holds the door you take the bottom one right out, then return to taking out the top one.
please note if this dont work you can always try using oxy, only then do you need to cut the doors off
here is the job finished
cheers gong
these are the tools you will need to complete the job
step 1
using a 7/16 spanner take the 3 bolts out of the check trap mecanism
step 2
soak both pins with INOX
step 3
take your long bar and give the top of the pinhead a hit until it is level with the hinge
step 4
now spray some more INOX in the hole, and take a pair of vice grips and twist side to side,,some times you may need to bang the pin back in so the INOX works its wonders
step 5
now take your long rod and a hammer and give it a wack
now your pin should be half way out
step 6
now repeat the same thing on the bottom one but this time use the shorter rod,, only this time while your mate holds the door you take the bottom one right out, then return to taking out the top one.
please note if this dont work you can always try using oxy, only then do you need to cut the doors off
here is the job finished
cheers gong
Edited by BATHURST-32D, 13 October 2010 - 06:11 PM.
#10
_Agent 34_
_Agent 34_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 October 2010 - 02:43 PM
There will be a rush on Inox sales this arvo !
#11
_SnotGobbler_
_SnotGobbler_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 October 2010 - 04:46 PM
interesting.. thanks for the step by step pic guide with tools
maybe all my short socket extentions will make one long one otherwise its out to buy more stuff lol
dont think i have much else to improvise
maybe all my short socket extentions will make one long one otherwise its out to buy more stuff lol
dont think i have much else to improvise
#12
_Quagmire_
_Quagmire_
-
- Guests
Posted 14 October 2010 - 06:01 PM
hey gong
they are 1/2" socket extentions yeah?
they are 1/2" socket extentions yeah?
#13
Neils LX
-
- Members
-
- 2,074 posts
Forum Fixture
- Name:a
- Location:North west NSW
- Joined: 18-March 07
Posted 15 October 2010 - 04:31 PM
here is the job finished
cheers gong
[/quote]
Chears mate with some extra help my my uncle we got them off today, thanks again Neil
cheers gong
[/quote]
Chears mate with some extra help my my uncle we got them off today, thanks again Neil
#14
_Agent 34_
_Agent 34_
-
- Guests
Posted 16 October 2010 - 09:40 AM
Prayed to the Lj door pin God last night and got mine off today !
Another tool that i used was a welding hammer, it's the one with the point at one end and a chisel at the other, it was good as it allowed to move the angle of the hit around the pin head when it was comming out however the pliers are the go as John said with the hammer it dosent bent the pin.
It's off to the Soda blaster for a bath !
Another tool that i used was a welding hammer, it's the one with the point at one end and a chisel at the other, it was good as it allowed to move the angle of the hit around the pin head when it was comming out however the pliers are the go as John said with the hammer it dosent bent the pin.
It's off to the Soda blaster for a bath !
#15
_73LJWhiteSL_
_73LJWhiteSL_
-
- Guests
Posted 19 April 2011 - 11:07 PM
My drivers side door only has one pin in the top and its rusted to buggery. The passenger side has two untouched pins. Thanks for all the tips guys. I think I might just keep drowning them in INOX for a few weeks before I attempt this one.
Steve
Steve
#16
WhaleOilBeefHooked
-
- Members
-
- 1,671 posts
Lord Humungus The Ayatolla of Rock N Rolla.
- Name:Andrew
- Location:Sydney
- Car:LJ GTR
- Joined: 06-July 09
Posted 20 April 2011 - 02:29 PM
I recently removed mine after 37 years of sitting in same place, I think the picture of top pin Gong has shown = pin in the wrong way around, Mine were tap upwards for top pin & downwards for bottom pin.. I used WD40 and soaked for a couple of days then used a pin punch to hammer the pin flush with hinges, then got some thin stainless stell rod that I cut to size in order to hammer the pins all way out, Were hard to do but with each strike of the hammer could see them moving so I kept at it.... Pins were still good and not worn at all, But I still got a set of new pins for when it's time to re-hang those heavy doors..... Not the hardest thing I've had to do but it's right up there, Until I discovered the stainless rod around 5mm in daimeter and as they say All jobs are made easier with the right tools....
#17
_stretchlc_
_stretchlc_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 April 2011 - 07:16 PM
I feel your pain guys!.....and to think that holden was still using this exact same set up in the VN-VT Commodores!.....I dont get it!
#18
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,668 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 20 April 2011 - 09:59 PM
I recently removed mine after 37 years of sitting in same place, I think the picture of top pin Gong has shown = pin in the wrong way around, Mine were tap upwards for top pin & downwards for bottom pin.. I used WD40 and soaked for a couple of days then used a pin punch to hammer the pin flush with hinges, then got some thin stainless stell rod that I cut to size in order to hammer the pins all way out, Were hard to do but with each strike of the hammer could see them moving so I kept at it.... Pins were still good and not worn at all, But I still got a set of new pins for when it's time to re-hang those heavy doors..... Not the hardest thing I've had to do but it's right up there, Until I discovered the stainless rod around 5mm in daimeter and as they say All jobs are made easier with the right tools....
Hi Andrew
Sorry to disappoint you but your door pins are in the wrong way round, Gongs are correct.
Top hinge pin has the head facing down and bottom hinge has the head facing up.
Cheers
Dave
#19
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,668 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 20 April 2011 - 10:03 PM
I feel your pain guys!.....and to think that holden was still using this exact same set up in the VN-VT Commodores!.....I dont get it!
Not exactly the same, commodore hinge pins are tubular with a slot down the side so hopefully should not be the same drama to remove as the LC-LJ pins.
#20
WhaleOilBeefHooked
-
- Members
-
- 1,671 posts
Lord Humungus The Ayatolla of Rock N Rolla.
- Name:Andrew
- Location:Sydney
- Car:LJ GTR
- Joined: 06-July 09
Posted 20 April 2011 - 10:56 PM
I recently removed mine after 37 years of sitting in same place, I think the picture of top pin Gong has shown = pin in the wrong way around, Mine were tap upwards for top pin & downwards for bottom pin.. I used WD40 and soaked for a couple of days then used a pin punch to hammer the pin flush with hinges, then got some thin stainless stell rod that I cut to size in order to hammer the pins all way out, Were hard to do but with each strike of the hammer could see them moving so I kept at it.... Pins were still good and not worn at all, But I still got a set of new pins for when it's time to re-hang those heavy doors..... Not the hardest thing I've had to do but it's right up there, Until I discovered the stainless rod around 5mm in daimeter and as they say All jobs are made easier with the right tools....
Hi Andrew
Sorry to disappoint you but your door pins are in the wrong way round, Gongs are correct.
Top hinge pin has the head facing down and bottom hinge has the head facing up.
Cheers
Dave
No Disappionments here Dave, Glad you set the record right & I will be sure to replace mine as per your recommendations & just goes to show these things were never intended / nor do they just fall out of the hinges....... Disappionted if nobody had corrected me and I had to remove new pins to make right again, But only after Gong had seen it and said "Those door pins are in the wrong way"......
#21
grumpy xu1
-
- Members
-
- 2,812 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Name:Gary
- Location:Queensland
- Car:lj xu1
- Joined: 01-February 10
Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:20 PM
Um yeah mate sorry but your pins were the wrong way round ps these pins were originally zinc plated obviously not well but my suggestion seems as apparently the new aftermarket pins are incorrect diameter is to simply wire brush (ie on the bench grinder) & rezinc ur gmh pins drop some anti sieze on them & tap them back in. THE USE OFF AN (OXY TORCHE) SHOULD ONLY be used to heat the hinge in order ONLY to break the rust contact inside PLEASE DO NOT cut off hinges unless LAST resort guy,s. What gong has stated would be best & yes inox or penetrene or lanilon sprayed for a few days prior to removal would help BEST OF LUCK TO YOU ALL & HAPPY PULLING ( HA HA LOL) Grumpy xu1 ps, yes commodore pins are hollow so they use a pin puller through the middle & a 1/2 square piece of steel much the same technique though.
I recently removed mine after 37 years of sitting in same place, I think the picture of top pin Gong has shown = pin in the wrong way around, Mine were tap upwards for top pin & downwards for bottom pin.. I used WD40 and soaked for a couple of days then used a pin punch to hammer the pin flush with hinges, then got some thin stainless stell rod that I cut to size in order to hammer the pins all way out, Were hard to do but with each strike of the hammer could see them moving so I kept at it.... Pins were still good and not worn at all, But I still got a set of new pins for when it's time to re-hang those heavy doors..... Not the hardest thing I've had to do but it's right up there, Until I discovered the stainless rod around 5mm in daimeter and as they say All jobs are made easier with the right tools....
Hi Andrew
Sorry to disappoint you but your door pins are in the wrong way round, Gongs are correct.
Top hinge pin has the head facing down and bottom hinge has the head facing up.
Cheers
Dave
No Disappionments here Dave, Glad you set the record right & I will be sure to replace mine as per your recommendations & just goes to show these things were never intended / nor do they just fall out of the hinges....... Disappionted if nobody had corrected me and I had to remove new pins to make right again, But only after Gong had seen it and said "Those door pins are in the wrong way"......
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
