1 votes
Scrivet Counter
Posted 09 June 2013 - 06:37 PM
Not kidding mate. Try leaving them in and see how easy it is to get the window glass in.
Also should mention to lubricate all moving parts of door locks, door opener mechanisms, window regulators (liberally apply to sector gear teeth, drive gear, glass lifter channel and plastic roller) and door check link roller & strap with white zinc oxide grease.
_Agent 34_
Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:02 PM
Dave,
I could follow through with your instructions and finish the doors off BUT
the rares bailey rubbers for the doors have turned out too short and will not go to the bottom of the door channel.- i have not wasted any at all and would have been lucky to cut off about 1/8'' for the corner.
It's about 150mm - 180 mm short ?
I have to take a photo and call them on monday, just seems like when the window is right down there would only be about 230 that is in the bailey chanel on the lock side, the lower section would be un- restrained
I'm going to PM les and see if this is correct -
thanks for the heads up on how to do this and the advice , much appreciated.
Scrivet Counter
Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:28 PM
Dave,
I could follow through with your instructions and finish the doors off BUT
the rares bailey rubbers for the doors have turned out too short and will not go to the bottom of the door channel.- i have not wasted any at all and would have been lucky to cut off about 1/8'' for the corner.
It's about 150mm - 180 mm short ?
I have to take a photo and call them on monday, just seems like when the window is right down there would only be about 230 that is in the bailey chanel on the lock side, the lower section would be un- restrained
I'm going to PM les and see if this is correct -
thanks for the heads up on how to do this and the advice , much appreciated.
Fully understand Grant.
The bailey channel should go the full length of the run channel, bar maybe 10 or 15mm at the bottom. Sounds like they might have given you a length of bailey channel for a 4dr front door.
Queens Birthday Holiday tomorrow for all of OZ isn't it?
Cheers
Dave.
Cool
Posted 09 June 2013 - 08:52 PM
Scrivet Counter
Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:08 PM
Not over here dave
Ahhh OK, googled it, WA has the 30th Sept 2013. Figures, you guys are always behind the rest of OZ. 
Cool
Posted 09 June 2013 - 09:57 PM
Ahhh OK, googled it, WA has the 30th Sept 2013. Figures, you guys are always behind the rest of OZ.
Forum Fixture
Posted 10 June 2013 - 06:42 AM
Hi Grant,
I had a look at mine yesterday.when i got it off the stands back out side,and saw mine are the same as yours.
But when grant was here.he was telling me his torana is untouched,in the quater window area's,and has sealant around the triangle piece thats pop riveted to the corner of the door,and also at the top edge were you had that gap on yours,its just to stop wind noise,and stop water from getting in,i have to reseal mine next,with sealant,but have too replace both quater window rubber seals on mine,my next job mate on my list,and my list is getting shorter on mine,so if you get stuck today mate,please call me.
Regards John.
_Agent 34_
Posted 10 June 2013 - 05:49 PM
nothing like doing a job twice !
bit forwards a lot backwards
OK,
so put together the lower dash today and also cleaned the cables, sorted out how to get the parts apart ( thanks thrash da bucket)
Over the time bought a few shifters, the first one i re built, the other two bought off ebay and gumm tree.
one is a cracker and the other had heaps of play.
when sorting out all the linkages i was tightening up the nut and F @$#k Me snapped it off in my hand. had to pull other boxes apart and then swap the arms over .
1 more mill
whent back to the original look of box colors.
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Edited by Agent 34, 10 June 2013 - 05:50 PM.
Forum Fixture
Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:10 PM
Hi Grant,
Don't for get to put the reverse light switch on the gear box,i cannot see it in the photo's mate.
Regards John.
Scrivet Counter
Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:20 PM
It's on there John, I can see it sticking it's shiny silver head up above the extension housing in that last pic.
Cheers
Dave.
Forum Fixture
Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:29 PM
Hi Dave,
I cannot see the wires mate,there shoud be a light green and dark green wires,coming out the top of it,you would be able to see very clear,or something on the bench?I'll ring him tomorrow.
Cheers John.
Scrivet Counter
Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:45 PM
Looks like it has two male spade connectors pointing vertically from the top of the switch.
Forum Fixture
Posted 12 June 2013 - 08:21 AM
There are no spade connectors,wires come directly out of the switch
Scrivet Counter
Posted 12 June 2013 - 04:58 PM
There are no spade connectors,wires come directly out of the switch
John, that depends on which model car the switch came from.
I've got a spare Aussie M20 reverse switch that has male spades, however they do not point vertically off the top of the switch.
Forum Fixture
Posted 12 June 2013 - 06:14 PM
Hi Dave,
I do think your switch has been modified,they all had wires coming out the top of the switch from factory.
Regards John.
Scrivet Counter
Posted 12 June 2013 - 07:15 PM
Apologies for the thread steal Grant.
John, can't find my spare reverse switch ATM, however, I still have the same reverse switch (original???) on my LJ that was on it when I bought her 33 years ago and it has male spade connectors.
Do these Aussie M20 reverse switches look like they have been modified?
http://www.ebay.com....=item35c855ce39
http://www.ebay.com....=item27caf88466
Cheers
Dave.
_sunburst73-xu1_
Posted 12 June 2013 - 07:59 PM
I was always under the impression that they did have the connectors and they were know to break off and that's why people would braze wires on. 
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 12 June 2013 - 11:25 PM
Hi Grant, glad to see the box going back to original. Just thought i'd mention i believe that the grease Dave mentions is now commonly known as ph grease ie castrol ect. Also used for checkstraps, bonnet release, door strikers & the boot strikers to @ gmh so plenty of use's for your tube you buy. Your going well mate, maybe i should drop my xu1 & $ 100 million to you to finish it & i'll just go to work till it's finished 
& i must say Dave amongst others does impress me with the lc/lj knowledge. Keep studying Dave for when i need more help, Gary.
_Agent 34_
Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:36 AM
Dave / John Dane,
yes it has the two male pins, I have to work out which wire comes down and where it goes from the harness. does it go under the fire wall ?
Garry,
mate its a bloody slog but I'm getting there, I have to chase down the grease and thanks for the advice on the new name.
Scrivet Counter
Posted 13 June 2013 - 09:41 AM
Grant, reverse light wires from under dash are Dk green & Lt green into a twin wire connector. There is a hole (approx 1/2" dia) in the side of the transmission tunnel on passenger side for the wires to go through to the switch. The wiring through the floor pan to the box is a separate harness and incorporates a rubber grommet.
_Agent 34_
Posted 13 June 2013 - 05:45 PM
Dave,
Ok found the wires on the harness But cannot locate the other separate wires harness, will continue to look.
Forum Fan
Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:03 PM
Hi Grant,
I take my hat off to you this thread is a beauty, its been an absolute epic adventure. Im looking forward to the finished product.
All the best Brian
BTW pics of the greece you after Burson on Repco should be able to supply.
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_Agent 34_
Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:07 PM
Dave,
I could follow through with your instructions and finish the doors off BUT
the rares bailey rubbers for the doors have turned out too short and will not go to the bottom of the door channel.- i have not wasted any at all and would have been lucky to cut off about 1/8'' for the corner.
It's about 150mm - 180 mm short ?
I have to take a photo and call them on monday, just seems like when the window is right down there would only be about 230 that is in the bailey chanel on the lock side, the lower section would be un- restrained
I'm going to PM les and see if this is correct -
thanks for the heads up on how to do this and the advice , much appreciated.
Brian, thanks for the words of encouragement. It's an experience that i will not forget. It's a blast that everyone that comes to my place is blown away by the colour and the car. It's awesome to say the least.
Update for all on the bailey channel with rares, it seems like they only have one measurement for the bailey channel and it's 1955mm. It's universal and after speaking with the guys at rares they now will make the bailey channel longer for the 2 door rubber kits. So there is a little win here for all with 2 doors.
They got back to me on the issues and will be sending me two new ones to use so that the bailey channel goes the full way.
put the wiper motor in today and finished off the wiper arms
Doing the rear brakes tomorrow and handbrake cables
1 more mill
Cool
Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:12 PM
Scrivet Counter
Posted 15 June 2013 - 07:00 PM
Good on ya Grant, goes to prove one person standing up and saying his peace can make a difference.
Do you know what length the revised bailey kit will be per 2dr door?
My calcs are a minimum of 2120mm of bailey channel per door for the HB, LC, LJ, TA 2dr, not allowing any for wastage.
Keep up the good work mate, the way you're going the quality of your GTR resto is going to be up there with Dane's awesome Sunburst XU1.
Cheers
Dave.
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