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Lucky the lime green metalic GTR 1972


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#76 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 06:49 PM

Update #25 - Diff / Engine and other bit and bobs

1) lesson learnt - cannot use Xu1 baffled sump with ARP bolts - the baffle hits one of the main cap ends and you need to use standard bolts, im not going to cut the baffle part.

2) the reco diff arrived today and what a get buy this was - I'm stoked with the quality of the diff and it's right in the middle ratio that i wanted.

3) We have ironed out all the small bugs, measurments, compression raito etc that needed to be done.

4) the bottom end has been balanced with the rods, pistons crank etc. I would never been able to do this without Daniel and Phil from peninsular engine reconditioners, they have been my teacher with this motor - i learnt so much in the proces. i cannot thank them enough for their time

5) its assembled to this stage, i learnt alot today about cam setting in relation to turn of the crank and ways to soften up a big cam - I have a big cam in this or so they tell me

6) the car body will be going on the rotisserie in three weeks for the body rear quaters

As big KEV once said " I'M EXCITED "


Went to waynes ( 2ecls) and picked up the front end spring decompressor. Sat in the green machine and made him fire it up, It looks great in the flesh and it's a real credit to him for his efforts with this car. I just wanted to steal the keys and the car and pull some burnouts up the road.

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#77 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 06:53 PM

the xu1 baffle to show where it hits the arp bolts in the above pictures of the crank main caps

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#78 warrenm

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Posted 09 July 2011 - 07:39 AM

You could always "adjust" the baffle to suit the ARP gear.

#79 _CraigA_

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Posted 09 July 2011 - 08:44 AM

I have had two of those baffles come adrift over the years. last one spent a bit of time getting panel beaten by the crankshaft.

If you do use that sump then get the baffle side plates freshly welded.

Warrens idea is a good one but if you are going to that effort with the engine then get yourself some extra oil capacity. ASR do a great job and will build with internal or external oil pick up.

Edited by CraigA, 09 July 2011 - 08:46 AM.


#80 _Agent 34_

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Posted 09 July 2011 - 03:36 PM

Warren and Craig,

That was my first through when i dropped in to the shop. I wondered if the difference in bolts would create an un even tension across the crank. It really should not.

Monday I'll go back adjust the baffle flange to clear the ARP bolts and then braze the baffle again down the sides. - I think that i'll sleep better. again Im in no rush at this stage.

The engine guy did mention that he was going to do that but didn't want to cut the baffle up.

thanks for the advice, I don't want it to come loose and stuff the bottom end with filings and then have to pull it down.

#81 _mob_

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Posted 10 July 2011 - 02:31 PM

Hi Grant,

Check your inbox, I dropped you a PM.

Cheers,

Mark

Warren and Craig,

That was my first through when i dropped in to the shop. I wondered if the difference in bolts would create an un even tension across the crank. It really should not.

Monday I'll go back adjust the baffle flange to clear the ARP bolts and then braze the baffle again down the sides. - I think that i'll sleep better. again Im in no rush at this stage.

The engine guy did mention that he was going to do that but didn't want to cut the baffle up.

thanks for the advice, I don't want it to come loose and stuff the bottom end with filings and then have to pull it down.





#82 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 05:42 PM

Update #26 - lynx manifold - ICE Dizzy, booster and leads etc, roller rockers 3/4 motor assembled.

3/4 motor build - oil pump - water pump - sump - oil galleys - push rods - roller rockers.

got the Ice dizzy parts that were missing with the motor when I bought it.

sent off three CD 175 and also the lynx manifold to extreme fuel for re building and to get on.

finally paid for the 73 bath extractors off Aldo last week.

Next outstanding matter is the final payment for the gearbox balance to be paid.

Dash facia is done and ready to be paid for and sent to manly instruments for re assembly - have been told to make sure that I get the correct "Ohmes " oil sender and temp guage.

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#83 _fe1957_

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Posted 19 July 2011 - 06:57 PM

Update #26 - lynx manifold - ICE Dizzy, booster and leads etc, roller rockers 3/4 motor assembled.

3/4 motor build - oil pump - water pump - sump - oil galleys - push rods - roller rockers.

got the Ice dizzy parts that were missing with the motor when I bought it.

sent off three CD 175 and also the lynx manifold to extreme fuel for re building and to get on.

finally paid for the 73 bath extractors off Aldo last week.

Next outstanding matter is the final payment for the gearbox balance to be paid.

Dash facia is done and ready to be paid for and sent to manly instruments for re assembly - have been told to make sure that I get the correct "Ohmes " oil sender and temp guage.


Hi what is with the front of the crank??

#84 _Agent 34_

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Posted 20 July 2011 - 09:39 AM

It's where they turn the crank to do the timing.and rockers stuff. I think !



#85 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:03 AM

Update #27 - Zinc bolts

forty bucks worth of Zinc bolts. some of these will be painted black to suite

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#86 _2ELCS_

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:16 AM

Update #27 - Zinc bolts

forty bucks worth of Zinc bolts. some of these will be painted black to suite



I hope you know where they all go ????

#87 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 04:50 PM

Wayne,

I have a rough idea, but that's why that four door is still together in my garage, so I can walk across and have a look at where everthing goes !

The bolts look pretty fancy though ! nothing like a bit of BLING BLING for the torrie !




#88 _CraigA_

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Posted 22 July 2011 - 05:12 PM

If they haven't taped the threads properly you'll have a prick of a time putting the car back together with those newly coated fasteners.

Get some suitable taps and dies ready and run some anti seize on the threads before you put it back together.

Looking good. I'll tell my brother to pull his finger out because you look like you might be ready for the body sooner rather than later.

#89 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 July 2011 - 04:51 PM

Update # 25 - the dash facia

Got the dash facia back from dash original today and dropped off at manly instruments.

I have to say that the finish is brand new and this is no joke, was a bit concerned about the colour when on the web when i looked. This is flawless.

So all of the gauges have been checked and working, needles have been touched up so it's ready for re assembly by the instrument guy and should be finished next week.

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#90 _Agent 34_

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Posted 03 August 2011 - 05:33 PM

Update # 26 - The bathurst replica extractors !

Aldo says they are replica's of the Bathurst 73 xu1 holden HDT team set. 10 were made this was the last set not on a car.

Another piece to the puzzel !
Note the thicker flange.

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#91 _Agent 34_

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 07:44 PM

Update #28 - the re assembling of the Dash episode;

It was all going along fine, called in today and the speedo and the tacho are back in with the spare lenses that I had from the four door.

The problem is that the old lenses are crazed, cracked what ever you call it. I actually never really noticed it before when i dropped off the dash for pulling apart.

So i now face the mamoth task of trying to find three ( at a pinch ) lenses that are in good condition.

SOS to the lense god out there if you are reading this post !

grant

keep your eyes and ears peeled brothers Ahmen !


Learnt some info about exhaust bends, flanges and where the seem is to be placed in the extractor tube when bending the pipe within the radus, and old fart ( has forgotten more things than i will remember ) sused out the extractors and gave them the thumbs up for quality, thickness and manufacture.

Above i was referring to the small lenses, fuel, alt, temp , oil



#92 r2160

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 11:13 AM

Great thread!

Give Rare Spares a call. I almost 100% sure that they have brand new lenses available

cheers
Glenn

#93 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 02:54 PM

Hi Glenn,


done that last week, they only have the big ones ( lenses ) and also the brake and green blinker lenses for about $68 bucks. Not really sure why you would have these lense kits as apposed to the gtr dash full set , gtr resto's would be higher on the agenda. I have been in touch with rares and have discussed this with them. I'm sending over a photo of the lense for them to have a look at and see if they can reproduce.

It's a VDO part and it comes with the gauge, rang holden Suttons and no go, rang VDO and no go.

I have a few people with parts and bit and bobs that are looking through their items this week and hopefully will either get some gauges with the lenses and or just the lenses.

Thanks for the comments on the thread, I have tried to keep this as a diary of the work so far and also to help other people out with their builds. In some ways I cannot wait for the thread to end as the car will be finished.

grant



#94 r2160

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 04:36 PM

The other alternative is pop down to your local perspex shop with the current lense and ask them to remake them. Many of them now have cnc machines. They might be able to help.


In fact I might be able to help if somebody has one they can lend me.

cheers
Glenn

Edited by r2160, 13 August 2011 - 04:42 PM.


#95 _2ELCS_

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 05:47 PM

Hi Grant

I hate to tell you this ..they are never finished....allways some thing to do.

#96 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 05:49 PM

Hi Grant

I hate to tell you this ..they are never finished....allways some thing to do.


:iagree:

#97 _Macka_

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 09:49 PM

<br />Hi Glenn,<br /><br /><br />done that last week, they only have the big ones ( lenses ) and also the brake and green blinker lenses for about $68 bucks.��Not really sure why you would have these lense kits as apposed to the gtr dash full set , gtr resto's would be higher on the agenda. I have been in touch with rares and have discussed this with them. I'm sending over a photo of the lense for them to have a look at and see if they can reproduce.<br /><br />It's a VDO part and it comes with the gauge, rang holden Suttons and no go, rang VDO and no go.<br /><br />I have a few people with parts and bit and bobs that are looking through their items this week and hopefully will either get some gauges with the lenses and or just the lenses.<br /><br />Thanks for the comments on the thread, I have tried to keep this as a diary of the work so far and also to help other people out with their builds. In some ways I cannot wait for the thread to end as the car will be finished.<br /><br />grant <br /><br /><br />

<br /><br /><br />

Grant, go to Howard Instruments. Brilliant and the bosses wife is a cracker!!!!!

Howard Instruments
www.howardinstruments.com.au
110 Northern Road
Heidleburg Heights, Victoria, 3081
Ph 03 94574755

#98 _Agent 34_

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 05:28 PM

<br />Hi Glenn,<br /><br /><br />Grant, go to Howard Instruments. Brilliant and the bosses wife is a cracker!!!!!

Howard Instruments
www.howardinstruments.com.au
110 Northern Road
Heidleburg Heights, Victoria, 3081
Ph 03 94574755



Well just an update on the lenses, Thanks Damian ( Macka ) for the heads up, you can use other lenses out of the following VDO gauges " cockpit international " and then just bezeal as usual, they are glass and not perspex and I think that Ron charges $185 for the lot, ie four gauges with new glass and bezeal. Have sent this information to my guy and see what he comes back with.

The DASH is in the BOX and on it's way to Dash original for a freshen up !

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#99 _Agent 34_

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 08:49 AM

Update #29 - the brake and alternator works

Well it's been a while since I posted on matters all green, I have to say that there have been two lime green gtr's come up for sale, I have questioned the build this week and the effort that goes into the car to get it back to tip top conditon.

I just want to finish my car and go for a drive, so If anyone out there wants to take me for a drive in their LJ or LC then come and pick me up, I need a hit of inline red Six fever at 5000 t0 6000 rpm - sucking fuel and cherping the wheels tp get fired up again !

here are the recent works;
the alternator has been wrapped and also re tested cleaned, new bearings and assembled. The guy mentioned that you have to wrap the wires as they are prone to expand with the high rpm, not quiet sure on this one, but does make sense, generally standard six may not have been built to rev this high for so long. ? that's a question for the technical heads out there to debunk ! . Anyway its done

Secondly to brake booster and master cyclinder have been done as well.

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#100 _bathurst-racer_

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Posted 26 August 2011 - 09:27 AM

Hi Grant

When I did my apprenticeship as an auto electrician we repaired a lot of Bosch alternators which had thrown the windings in the rotor. So you're guy is right, they do need a bit better glue to hold the wires firmly to the body of the rotor.




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