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Lucky the lime green metalic GTR 1972


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#126 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 05:22 PM

Update #41 - the heater box rebuild.

0) be gentle when you take out the nuts under the dash - be extra careful when dis engaging the controls and the lower diffuser box as you can bust the case

1) take your time with the extraction of the said box
2) bag it all up in parts
3) the motor comes off by undoing the nuts and slides off the base plate - metal
4) if you want to keep the foam - use a heat gun on the back of the metal slowly and it will peel off - you will need these as templates when you buy it from clarke or kanga rubber to re cut
5) send off the heater core to the radiatior guy for testing
6) the electrical motor to the electrician
7) you need to drill off the heater sensor - i think - it's pop riveted on - this needs to come off the base plate to be re coated
8) drill out the top retainer on the lid, unscrew the lever off the top - needs to be re coated
9) wipe and generally clean the box lid - it's gel coat similar to a boat - can clear coat it - but be gentle - it is supposed to have the fiberglass showing so you can see the strands - don't paint it
10 ) this is not gospel - but i recon that you can put the box back together with " window putty " as it seems to be the same as the stuff that is there from factory and it only really needs to seal
11) if you silicon it ( the top and bottom ) then you will never get it apart again if it stuffs up or re assembly is in correct . I'm going to use window putty to seal it. it's soft stuff anyway non stick!
12 ) send all past to be re plated.


The above is a record of the adventure that when on up to today. All the parts are at the platers as discussed.

Update on the motor - F$%$#K it looks sweet, the fly wheel dowled, fuel pump on, ingition in, oil pump on, rocker cover on.

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#127 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 November 2011 - 05:26 PM

1 more mi

1 more mill

#128 _Agent 34_

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 03:58 PM

Update #42- the new gearstick - I rebuilt the shifter linkages so it's nice and tight, The next step was to get the stick made up to screw into the female end. The female socket has the right kink for the gtr angle or is really close to it. once screwed in it's pretty close and also the right height for the 7 1/2 inch length or there abouts. IT fits.


Just need to change this over to the the other box ready for installation and also need to buy the ball top for it.

one more millimeter

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#129 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:37 PM

Update # 43 - the heater box re build continued


!) the cost to re zinc the plate , bolts and bits and other parts , clips and bolts and nuts - $40
2) rebuild the heater motor - $200

1 more mill

#130 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 04:09 PM

Update #44- the heater box foam cut episode !
1) go to clarke rubber
2) cost 15 bucks
3) get a circle bowl or the similar shape to cut the round one - dosen't matter if it's a bit bigger
4) need some hole punches - if don't have hole punches you can use old tube spanners with the round end sharpened
5) get sharp cutter
6) wooden choping block
7) make sure the kids help
8) total cost $15 bucks, about 1 hour of time
9) just need to glue the foam down with contact glue afterwards

Note: you need the templates off the old heater box otherwise fake it till you make it !

You get the picture of what happens next !

one more millimeter !

PS; don't let the missus catch you doing it on the kitchen bench !

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  • Attached File  7.jpg   22.89K   7 downloads


#131 rodomo

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 10:36 PM

Mate, I look at your avatar pic and I keep thinkin..................................is this a kid buildin this or what?
Then I see your pics.....................
If your a kid, your doin a bloody good job! :spoton:

#132 _2ELCS_

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 03:47 AM

Mate, I look at your avatar pic and I keep thinkin..................................is this a kid buildin this or what?
Then I see your pics.....................
If your a kid, your doin a bloody good job! :spoton:


He's a fourty year old kid R-O-B ......... like the rest of us???

#133 _Agent 34_

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 04:45 PM

What are you guys on, I only provide the shouting / money, NATE thats the dude in the avatar does all the work and running around,. SAM does the mechanical, ZARA does the interior design !

ps thanks R-O-B it's a long road 1 millimeter at a time . 2elcs knows the road well.

#134 _Agent 34_

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Posted 21 December 2011 - 04:33 PM

update #45 busted the baker light brush holders of the heater motor

DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH -

idiots at the electricians, F%$#@%ken apprentice, put the new heater motor onto the old crappy, oil filled spare heater box, with the fan and the clip, it's a real bugger to separate the fan from shaft of the motor.

MEEEEE, trying to separate the motor back off the shitty heater box to put in the new heater box and in a hurry cracked the baker light brush holder behind the actual armature.

DOH and double DOH !!!!

then had to pull apart the other spare motor and rescue the same part and re put into the rebuild motor.

lesson learned, be patient with the heater boxes GOD , take your time.

1 millimeter back. then 1 millimeter forward. same spot but seems like 1 millimeter forward.

#135 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 05:25 PM

Update #46 Santa came early !
finally have finished the motor, well at least this part.

1 more millimeter

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#136 _Agent 34_

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:17 PM

Attached File  h g smash rear quaters 011.jpg   57.79K   0 downloadsUpdate #47 back to original

some of you may know that when i bought the car the rear quaters were flared, it was always a massive job to correct. . It's taken 14 months of thought of searching, spot weld drilling and a great deal of effort. But i stood in front of the car today with a great big smile on my dial.

The square lip is back and the 70's are long gone.


1 more millimeter

Edited by Agent 34, 03 January 2012 - 05:26 PM.


#137 _Agent 34_

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:36 PM

Update #48 Another Day another spot weld,

Finally finished stripping and detailing the last of the donor quater panel. Amen !

Now it's just dummy fitting all the parts and checking for gaps, no welding until the A pillars are done.

Note; if you are thinking of replacing the rear quaters on a torana, make sure that the end result is worth the cost of the effort. don't do it on a torana S.

1 more millimeter

Edited by Agent 34, 04 January 2012 - 05:36 PM.


#138 _Agent 34_

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 01:53 PM

Update #49 - the gear box is finished and ready !

Finished the bits and pieces on the gear box, cleaned it up and sorted all the linkages and adjusted the shifter the best i can.

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Edited by Agent 34, 05 January 2012 - 01:54 PM.


#139 _Agent 34_

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 03:39 PM

Update #50 - the drivers side A Pillar is done!

Pulled out the old A pillar and fitted the new A pillar.

Fitted the door checked the gaps and it's all good. 1 day to do one A pillar. This was one of the jobs that had me worried, but it went really well.

If i had one more week the passenger side of the car would be finished. I'm off to fiji for a week instead for some family time.

1 more millimeter.

Pretty happy with the progress, I'm on target to get the car back close to April painted.

#140 _Skapinad_

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:26 PM

Looking good.....

PS its millimetre.

#141 rodomo

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 06:10 PM

PfffffttT ! ! ! .040" give or take a bee's dick.

#142 _2ELCS_

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 04:09 PM

^^^^^ An astute judge on bee's dicks R-O-B ????

Edited by 2ELCS, 08 January 2012 - 04:13 PM.


#143 Potta

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 06:58 PM

He has excellent eye sight

#144 _Agent 34_

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:56 PM

Update #51,

well been a bit quiet on the western front only the following to report;
1) sending off the lucas starter motor to check and rebuild
2) pulled the driveline out of the four door and got all the parts that i need to finish off the GTR four speed box
3) put the engine on the engine stand
4) wrapped up the old JL block, head and crank and put in storage.

millimetre

#145 lxsstorana

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:02 PM

Great work Grant, :spoton:

This car's going to be better than new by the time you've finished it.

Cheers Mick.

#146 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:08 PM

Update #52- the other side !

Well one whole side of the car has had it's panels replaced, like new , better than new and no rust left !. All the panel and rust works is great and solid.

The next side quater is going on today, tomorrow, the next day.

Thursday i will be out there replacing, " drilling spot welds again " and preparing the new A pillar

So by next Monday the car will be fully repaired, NO rust, on a rotisseri and then off to the blasters for underneath !

We discussed the underneath today, and I just didn't seem right to put this much effort into a car and not do underneath, blasted and then in satin black.

I just need to remove the diff prior to this happening.

Discussed the paint and the finish today with Glenn at H & G.

PS Mick, thanks for the words, It's hard some days to pick up the ball and run with it, but today i really felt a tipping point in the car

1 more millimetre

Funny being a building surveyor and an ex builder, I still miss spelt millimetre ! DOH !

#147 brocks72xu1

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:17 PM

so how did the drivers piller go :stirpot:

#148 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:34 PM

Grant,, with some expert help and some professional advice and guidance, it slipped in with minimal fuss. There is an old saying, you cannot put a price on experience. enough said on this thanks.

#149 _Agent 34_

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:31 PM

Update #53 Passenger Side

The rear quarter is done ready for welding.

The A pillar is in and ready for welding.

Just fitting and getting the gaps right before the welding up on the parts.

FINISHED - NO MORE RUST or FLARES AMEN !

1 more millimeter

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#150 _Macka_

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 07:15 PM

Grant you are doing great work. Stick at it and see you at Bathurst!!




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