0) be gentle when you take out the nuts under the dash - be extra careful when dis engaging the controls and the lower diffuser box as you can bust the case
1) take your time with the extraction of the said box
2) bag it all up in parts
3) the motor comes off by undoing the nuts and slides off the base plate - metal
4) if you want to keep the foam - use a heat gun on the back of the metal slowly and it will peel off - you will need these as templates when you buy it from clarke or kanga rubber to re cut
5) send off the heater core to the radiatior guy for testing
6) the electrical motor to the electrician
7) you need to drill off the heater sensor - i think - it's pop riveted on - this needs to come off the base plate to be re coated
8) drill out the top retainer on the lid, unscrew the lever off the top - needs to be re coated
9) wipe and generally clean the box lid - it's gel coat similar to a boat - can clear coat it - but be gentle - it is supposed to have the fiberglass showing so you can see the strands - don't paint it
10 ) this is not gospel - but i recon that you can put the box back together with " window putty " as it seems to be the same as the stuff that is there from factory and it only really needs to seal
11) if you silicon it ( the top and bottom ) then you will never get it apart again if it stuffs up or re assembly is in correct . I'm going to use window putty to seal it. it's soft stuff anyway non stick!
12 ) send all past to be re plated.
The above is a record of the adventure that when on up to today. All the parts are at the platers as discussed.
Update on the motor - F$%$#K it looks sweet, the fly wheel dowled, fuel pump on, ingition in, oil pump on, rocker cover on.