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Lucky the lime green metalic GTR 1972


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#176 frash da bucket

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 01:54 AM

Its looking good Grant.

Regards John.

#177 _Agent 34_

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:39 PM

A centermetre by the sound of that Grant.


yep went back 4 mill today though wayne - the wiring harness that came with the car in a box was chopped off and missing the front. I had to pull that whole harness out of the four door and will have to send off to get re built on monday.

Keep going Grant. Great job so far. I am expecting you at Bathurst!!!


Damien- I'll be there even if it either kills me, i get a divorce, or go broke trying - either will be a possibility at this stage !

or go mental trying !

Edited by Agent 34, 06 May 2012 - 08:40 PM.


#178 _2ELCS_

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:56 PM

You,ve got five months Grant get into it

#179 _Agent 34_

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:25 PM

You,ve got five months Grant get into it


yep foots flat to the floor !

Update #65 - Whats doing this week

1) sent of the seatbelts to a dude in victoria or re webbing and buckles
2) the wiring harnes - as i found out was cut off at the fire wall - new wiring harness off vintage wiring harnes , the old one has been send down to get the fittings off
3) picked up the last of the sanblasting for the car
4) spent today and also tomorrow at H &G smash, rubbing, filling, rubbing , filling, rubbing, skimming, rubbing, skimming, sanding, skimming, rubbing sanding - but one side is done- not the side in the photo, that's tomorrow
5) pulled the stearing column apart for re painting of the, steering wheel and also other parts

4 mill today

it's certinally a nut and bolt resto

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Edited by dattoman, 09 May 2012 - 09:06 PM.


#180 lxsstorana

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:24 PM

You're another millimetre closer. (shit you're got me saying it now).

Edited by lxsstorana, 09 May 2012 - 07:24 PM.


#181 xu2308

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:52 PM

Getting there, will be great the final product

#182 frash da bucket

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 08:04 PM

Its getting there grant,bit by bit.

Regards John.

#183 _mikecatts_

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 06:06 PM

Well done Grant..Looking good

#184 _Agent 34_

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 08:33 PM

Well done Grant..Looking good



mike, three tips on the rear quaters
1) if the turret replacment parts / quaters are good and you can leave the gutter moulds on the donor parts, then do as John gong did and join the panel up or after the factory lead wipe, after is better.
2) If you can spend two days cutting and drilling the whole panel off the donor car as John did then this is the best way as you will only have to really join on or above the roof, but it will take more prep work to get the three panels ready, 2x rear quaters and then beaver.
3) BUY the best replacement panels you can as this will save you with final work

fixing and repairing the gutter moulds will send you insane, A) for removing them and drilling the spot welds and B ) fixing them and then re attaching then and then welding and repairing them.

Just make sure that replacement panels are not rusted behind the gutter moulds, if they are then drill the gutter moulds off from behind the donor panel then repair all parts then re affix with the spot welder prior to putting the new quaters on.
All the best with the car and give me a call when you need Pm and ill give you my mobile no.

grant.

#185 _mikecatts_

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 06:37 AM

Grant..which are the best panels to buy?
Rare spares or Aussie Muscle cars????

#186 _Agent 34_

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 07:10 AM

Grant..which are the best panels to buy?
Rare spares or Aussie Muscle cars????


Mike,

you cannot buy the gutter replacement moulds that go behind the rear quater windows, PS, you have to be very carefull when you take the set off the car so you can repair and re use like this.

It's the worst job, they are flimsy as a wet Tally Ho paper

Or you may have to rebuild the ones that you have taken off, a really good panel beater and or persistant person could make. OR you get some other ones and drill off the donor panel from the rear of the panel so you don't drill holes in the face of them.

This is my trick for taking these off;

1) cut the donor panel off the with the gutter moulds on
2) oxy most of the metal away from the back
3) come from the back side of the solid quater panel up on the turret
4) drill through the solid quater panel and into the spot weld that holds on the gutter mould
5) don't force it, wiggle the gutter mould until the spot weld breaks - don't drill all the way through the gutter mould
6) repeat


If you cannot take off the donor quater by destroying it, then it's back to the old way of drilling the spot welds from the front as you have done to get yours off. BUT remember to wiggle to break the spot weld. Its a bugger of a job.

If you get stuck i have some that i have really destroyed.

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#187 _mikecatts_

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 07:54 AM

Hi grant..I have done the right side gutter..The left side is ok..And yes, what a job!!!! I welded from the front...got good penetration and all rust is gone..
I lead filled the recess and lead filled the gap between the roof and gutter..You would not even know it was done..
Im getting better at welding/lead filling..Just need to get some proper sanding devices...Im a bit shocked at the price of the Lead body files...
I need some curved files..any suggestions???
Mike

#188 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:29 PM

Update Route #66 - I wish that i was driving the GTR on route 66 !

Well whats been doing this week on lucky;
1) the seatbelts are back from monaro muscle parts - great job done on these
2) bought the new top vinyl covers from rares and some other stuff
3) the carbies are re built at extreme and we are just sorting out some linkages to make them work
4) the lynx manifold was pretty badly cast, the external diameter of the throat matches up well with the head BUT the diameter of the two holes in each throad is a bit dodgy as you can see in the photos.


Set about trying to smooth these out and make even as best i could. Also matched the gasket to the head and also to the manifold.
filed/ stone the face of the manifold flat with my sharpening stone, got them nice and flat with full contact so there should be no leaks with the gasket. you can see that two of the throats are different to the other one, also there is a wall where it is cast so it's really just a balancing act to make sure that you don't go through the wall and wreck the manifold.

It's heaps better than it was and looks and measures pretty even.

5) dummy fitted up the manifold with the bathurst extractors and it all fitted nicely, there is a few small adjustments to be made, even the Y piece pipe just slipped on.


I didn't take any photos of the post porting, but i still need to make up a template to check the throat sizes as the middle throah seems to have thicker wall than the other two, you can see this in the photo. But apart from that it all matches perfectly at the head and there is no lips.

1 more mill

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Edited by Agent 34, 19 May 2012 - 04:33 PM.


#189 _Macka_

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 05:34 PM

Keep going Grant you are doing a great job. That manifold sounds a bit dodgy???

#190 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 06:46 PM

Damo, it looked weird when I started , but when I finished it was pretty good . I have pm old johno on the flow capacity of the manifold and the middle throat is a concern for its size .

All the rest is ok apart from the capacity of the middle one to flow . This is the one I bought off u , It may be that I need to grind out the first 25mm of the throat.

All else lines up really great with the head .

Whipping that fat horse with this car .

#191 _Macka_

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 06:54 PM

I thought it must have been the one l sold you!!!

#192 _Agent 34_

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:34 PM

Update #67

Well whats doing this week !

1) go the wiper motor back today and no charge for the test of the motor, but it seems like the plastic wheel inside has cracks in it and it's a lucky dip how long it will last , but just didn't want to put that motor in and then the F%%%ing thing shit it's self and then have to pull it out, what a shit job !
2) the rear of the car is finished on the car and it's in HI Fill so it's one more step here
3) The four door gave up it's last donor parts last weekend, the spare wheel floor and also the lip on the plenum where the heater box fits - poor old girl she is destined to be fully chopped in two
4) the new wiring harness is two weeks away
5) finally got the rear quarter windows off the crumb in victoria and they will be here on tusday and then will stip ready for paint
6) got the front steering boots for the rack

Not really sure if I'm going to make it to either torana fest or bathurst, the panel shop has not really delivered with the time frame, as agreed even with my help and screwing the car and getting it regoed will take at least 2 months.

inching 1 mill towards torana fest as my first goal

#193 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:52 PM

Grant don't give up mate,I hate panel shops they always blow out to what they say I know resto work is not there priority.Just try and have everything conponent wise finished and ready to bolt on.should only take 2 to 3 weeks max to fit out the car.
Cheers Dane

#194 _Agent 34_

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 07:01 PM

#update #68 - another example of holden engineering at it's best - the RAT TRAP

Err, it all started good and was looking at the rat trap from a distance and thinking that it was in good condition looking wise. Anyway started to get ready for paint and having a closer look and things look like the federal labour government
" Worn out" and " wobbly".

Here is the offending pivot area, so it's a re build of the area and this will be done over the next week after some discussions with the members at the monthy gtr xu1 owners club on tuesday night.

Also separated the rear springs out ready for sandblasting and powder coating.

1 more mill

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Edited by Agent 34, 26 May 2012 - 07:05 PM.


#195 _Agent 34_

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 07:04 PM

Grant don't give up mate,I hate panel shops they always blow out to what they say I know resto work is not there priority.Just try and have everything conponent wise finished and ready to bolt on.should only take 2 to 3 weeks max to fit out the car.
Cheers Dane


yep your right Dane on this, but the panel work on my car has been an epic to say the least.

#196 _mikecatts_

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 08:56 AM

Looking good Grant..Keep it up..I wish I was where you are at..Want to swap? Only joking..Keep it up..
Yea, my panel guy sucks..Thats me by the way,Hes taking too long :D .
Grant. you need a BIGGER work bench....

Edited by mikecatts, 27 May 2012 - 08:58 AM.


#197 _Agent 34_

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 07:29 PM

Looking good Grant..Keep it up..I wish I was where you are at..Want to swap? Only joking..Keep it up..
Yea, my panel guy sucks..Thats me by the way,Hes taking too long :D .
Grant. you need a BIGGER work bench....


I have a four car garages two on each side of the House mike, they are both now filled with torana shit, my friend came over on the weekend and just loved the whole shed thing under the house ( its a man cave ), After the car I'm planning to excavate it further and turn it into a bigger area, but this needs some serious steel beams to hold up the rest of the house.

Anyway update #69 - We all know what that means ! Kids in bed early and HELLO darling

back to business,

Well lost some momentum this week but can report the following;

Aparently the four door ( the donor car ) had a NEW altered rat trap, this one has a bigger center pin, the standard pin is about 3/8 and the bigger pin is about 15mm not sure of the old scale. i'll post some pics later of this when i start to re build the rat trap.

It was made different based on some design flaws as the trap was know for flexing and breaking.

all the suspension and sway bars are off to the sandblasters tomorrow and then to the powder coaters as i have decided to go down this path rather than paint as it will last longer and and will be a bit resistant to stone chips.

The diff and trailing arms are painted and will post the re assembly of the diff and brakes ready for re istallation.

stay tuned

1 more mill

Edited by Agent 34, 30 May 2012 - 07:30 PM.


#198 lxsstorana

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:25 PM

Keep going, progress is progress.

#199 _ljharbsy_

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 02:40 PM

Keep up the good work Grant, I have a rat trap I'm not going to use if you need some spare parts, maybe you have something I need and we could do a swap or something, let me know anyway.

Thanks
Steve

#200 _Agent 34_

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Posted 11 June 2012 - 03:27 PM

HIT the big update # 70

Well what's doing last week
1) got to the other end of the rat trap and found that the clivis pins was near cut through - so repaired it with a thicker arm ( re weld up the hole and drill) then put a bolt with sleve so it can turn - re painted the pedal assembly while there- the photo with the red colour lever is a late model hg one and this is going on the lower end on the trap, the other one in the photos with the welding up is the one for the top that connects to the pedal , its got a sleve and bolt
2) the last two repairs on the car it's in hi fill in the rear so creaping forward
3) diff painted and start to re assemble - but need to change the bolts to short ones - tomorrow
4) finished the rear quarter windows - cleaned - scraped and undercoated the windows frames
5) pulled apart the front quarter windows and stripped and prepped and undercoated - cleaned the chrome ready for the platers tomorrow
6) started to put the diff back together
7) suspension is back from the powder coaters - internation orange is the K Mac colour
8) cut the front off the four door and only have the cross member and wheels - the rest is going to the tip

1 more mill

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Edited by Agent 34, 11 June 2012 - 03:29 PM.





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