Jump to content


Photo

Spray as you go etch primer, thats garage friendly


  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#1 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 26 October 2010 - 05:28 PM

Okay, so I have established by reading the paint and panel section through and through that 2k etch is the far more superior product to lay over a prepared or non prepared bare metal surface for protection and seal. I've known this for many years. What I didn't know is the following:

Unfortunately for me, I don't think its a good idea to use this. I am happy to purchase all the PPE to go with it, but without a proper booth etc spraying at home is illegal. Fair enough.

Now, is there any acrylic products out there (due to advancement in paint) that can do an 'as good' job? At the moment in my project certain areas (eg: back of a rear quarter panel/ back of a beaver panel etc etc) I clean up and bare metal that back the same as I would for the visible area. A 2k etch primer would be perfect for those areas as I can give them a squirt and put them back on, and (hopefully) be rest assured that it's a decent job and fairly insured. With from what I know, acrylic etch on these areas would suck up moisture. What if I was to put an etch over it, then a surfacer? But wouldn't the acrylic surfacer be porous as well? And I am unsure about the spray cans as well.



When I did work experience for a restoration shop, they used what they called "red brown" over a car that has came back from the blasters. These cars would be sitting around for months/ years in red brown, even pushed outside while its raining. They even got me to spray this stuff on, and it wasnt in a booth or anything. (its only when I sprayed 2k primer over a celica that I was in a booth with the air fed mask).

What would you guys do? I assume some are like me, concentrate on an area, fix it up, metal finish and what have you, then spray some etch and move on.

When I get time at work this week, i'll give a Protec dealer near my place a call I reckon, get their scope.. I wonder if any of their employees were or are painters themselves..

Cheers

#2 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 26 October 2010 - 06:01 PM

2k etch is generally single pack and doesnt contain isocyanates, i dont see what the problem is.

Its simply a superior single pack etch designed to spray 2k primers over.

Cheers.

#3 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 26 October 2010 - 06:06 PM

so 2k etch is fine to use because it's a single component primer? No hardener or anything?

#4 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 26 October 2010 - 07:07 PM

Ones i've used have been mate.

No worse than acrylic or enamel.

Cheers.

#5 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 26 October 2010 - 07:12 PM

Sweet, i'll give a paint supplier a call this week, see what they have. Sounds good

#6 _Viper_

_Viper_
  • Guests

Posted 26 October 2010 - 07:30 PM

Doesn't 2pak etch still absorb moisture and only a epoxy primer will seal?

#7 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:50 PM

Isn't 2 pack etch epoxy? I just googled 2 pack etch primer and it came up with this stuff and the description says this:

SUPER ETCH PRIMER
Description:
Single pack epoxy etch primer with exceptional adhesion. Very fast dry times and sandable.

#8 _Viper_

_Viper_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:12 AM

I'm not 100% sure but my epoxy primer cost more then the normal 2pak etch and it
Was 2part with a hardener.

When I did my night course at tafe they told us epoxy and etch primer are 2 different things

#9 _Viper_

_Viper_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 11:31 AM

"think it had a hardener as well, I'll check tonight"

#10 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 11:50 AM

aren't all primers desgined to absorb some of the top coat?
you can and have been able to buy isotipote free 2k paint for a few years now
i think it's more in the hardner/reducers that you get the "nasties" nowdays?
but don't take my word as gospel as
i spray only with acyrlic (so far anyway) so i'm only going on limited knowledge on 2k though

#11 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:09 PM

I went to Protec today and just as a trial I bought what they recommended in etch primer "etchpro" Its a single pack epoxy(i only got the spray pack though to try it, didn't wanna get 1 L if it was going to be crap).
He said thats its a really good seller and very popular, however still needs to be top coated as all primers (in acrylic) will absorb moisture.
So maybe bare metal, spray some etch, then get some GMH black (or whatever) put it over the top and leave it, I wonder if that will suffice. (remember this is for panels that are never exposed but too overkill to spray sound deadener over (which I bought also haha)

#12 _abtorana_

_abtorana_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:17 PM

gday

why not just get some rust convertor and apply this to any bare metal
and it will protect it for months.this is what i have been using and it works a treat
just follow directions and you will be suprised at the results.

i have used both the 3M and Septone brands available from supercheap ect.

#13 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 06:10 PM

I went to Protec today and just as a trial I bought what they recommended in etch primer "etchpro" Its a single pack epoxy(i only got the spray pack though to try it, didn't wanna get 1 L if it was going to be crap).
He said thats its a really good seller and very popular, however still needs to be top coated as all primers (in acrylic) will absorb moisture.
So maybe bare metal, spray some etch, then get some GMH black (or whatever) put it over the top and leave it, I wonder if that will suffice. (remember this is for panels that are never exposed but too overkill to spray sound deadener over (which I bought also haha)


if you get the type of paint your spraying in a top coat (ie acrylic-gmh black if your top coat is acyrlic)
you could use it as a guide coat
kill two birds with one stone

#14 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 27 October 2010 - 07:43 PM

I agree with you Quaggy, that's a good idea.

abtorana, yes the rust converter I use is good for that also. Here's an example of one of the many uses I am trying to explain here (as it is difficult haha):
(This is one of the scenarios)
I have cut the whole rear taillight area of the back of my hatch. I have used a donor rear, and cleaned up the backside of the panel and got it to bare metal, I have covered it in rust converter. Once I weld it back into the car, I can't do anything with it anymore, so thats why i'm asking for peoples opinion on what I can coat this newly cleaned panel with before I weld it back on and lose access to it. I'd hate to clean it, rust convert it, and later down the track it surface rusts again especially from the back
.
With 2 pack primer with the catalyst it'll do the job fine, but I think for us acrylic users, from what I have learnt, a nice etch with a topcoat will be the go to lock it all in. - that or I can just go get Por15 :S

#15 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 07:45 PM

Etchpro is shit, only good for welding through (stops spatter) and quickly blowing over something so it doesnt rust, You will be able to leave a bare metal panel in it for quiet some time but you WILL need to sand it all off before you put your 2k etch over it if you decide to flick a bit over exterior panels to keep them good. DO NOT use it and top coat it in your internal panels, it will rust in time.

I didnt really read your first post properly. If its for internal panels then something like Protec 404 NS primer (zink phosphate based alkyd resin, single pack, not cheep but frOcking fantastic) with 304 or 363 top coat (all enamel products, 304 top coat is cheaper than 363 top coat so use 304) would be perfect. Wouldent be able to weld through it though so will have to clean up where your going to weld then probably use your Etchpro on just those areas. No different to using Por 15, cant weld through that either from what i gather.

Protec is very good, obviously the bloke at the store wasnt to suggest etchpro for your situation, or to give it to you if you asked for 2k etch. If i ever caught someone using Etchpro in place of 2k etch i'd give them a fair frOcking serve i'll tell you that now.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 27 October 2010 - 07:47 PM.


#16 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:12 PM

Fair enough. So what is the name of any 2k etch product (preferably Protec) that is single pack? Multiple etch primers for different applications sounds confusing.

#17 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:13 PM

I agree with you Quaggy, that's a good idea.

abtorana, yes the rust converter I use is good for that also. Here's an example of one of the many uses I am trying to explain here (as it is difficult haha):
(This is one of the scenarios)
I have cut the whole rear taillight area of the back of my hatch. I have used a donor rear, and cleaned up the backside of the panel and got it to bare metal, I have covered it in rust converter. Once I weld it back into the car, I can't do anything with it anymore, so thats why i'm asking for peoples opinion on what I can coat this newly cleaned panel with before I weld it back on and lose access to it. I'd hate to clean it, rust convert it, and later down the track it surface rusts again especially from the back
.
With 2 pack primer with the catalyst it'll do the job fine, but I think for us acrylic users, from what I have learnt, a nice etch with a topcoat will be the go to lock it all in. - that or I can just go get Por15 :S



he he he
you could leave it in primer like gmh did with the h series x factory
or if your not going to weld or disturb it then rust convert and prime/top coat/por
the inners and just rub the rest off when you do the rest of the body work on the outside
i think you may have managed to confuse both me and bomber Posted Image
btw both 2k and acyrlic etches are compatable with either primers

#18 _Quagmire_

_Quagmire_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:21 PM

Fair enough. So what is the name of any 2k etch product (preferably Protec) that is single pack? Multiple etch primers for different applications sounds confusing.



404 ns is what bomber said
the rest he was quoting top coats
well that's what i made of it
if your doing acyrlic the just spray acyrlic top coat over the etech easy

#19 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:27 PM

Correct quaggy but Acrylic etch will rust underneith.

426 Vinyl etch is the only good single pack etch Protec makes off the top of my head. 429 Paraphos is the best etch but it uses a hardener so out for this conversation.

426 www.protec.com.au/secure/downloadfile.asp?fileid=1003273

Personally i'd use 404NS like i suggested though, i use it over bare steel (either sand blasted or sanded) and top coat it at work for most things, in an industrial environment exposed to high salinity water and general corrosive baddies all the time...Lasts ages in that environment will last forever inside your car. Used to use Etchpro and things would start rusting under the paint within six months, been using 404 for over two years now and stuff which i painted when i first started using it as a "tester" is still in fairly good shape.

Cheers.

#20 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 27 October 2010 - 09:05 PM

the 426 vinyl - to me - seems like a good etch primer. It'll probably do my exterior and hidden panels (providing theres something over the top.. what do you recommend for that?)

The 404 - if its the one I read correctly on the site, states that its an enamel product, not recommended to sit underneath 2 pack and lacquers

#21 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 09:38 PM

I spray 2k over 404ns all the time, dont confuse 404 with 404ns, totally different product.

Plus if its for internal panels then whats wrong with enamel? Like seriously man what are you trying to achieve here?

Are you top coating the outside with 2k or acrylic?

But yeah, the 426 should be ok, what do you want to top coat it with? Were still talking about internal areas right? Not 2k i would assume, and by the way the tech data sheet reads you cant go acrylic, so its enamel, and as i've already said 304 cause its cheap but good.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 27 October 2010 - 09:41 PM.


#22 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 28 October 2010 - 06:21 AM

I spray 2k over 404ns all the time, dont confuse 404 with 404ns, totally different product.

Plus if its for internal panels then whats wrong with enamel? Like seriously man what are you trying to achieve here?

Are you top coating the outside with 2k or acrylic?

But yeah, the 426 should be ok, what do you want to top coat it with? Were still talking about internal areas right? Not 2k i would assume, and by the way the tech data sheet reads you cant go acrylic, so its enamel, and as i've already said 304 cause its cheap but good.



I just don't want to use different products. It'll be great to have an etch/ undercoat that can be used for those never to be seen again panels for peace of mind, and for outer panels while i'm doing my repairs.

I'll be doing the car in acrylic.

Having said all that though, I did read the 404 NS and it does state that it's suitable for both single pack and 2 pack topcoats.

#23 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 28 October 2010 - 09:57 PM

OK OK, i did a bit more reading into this. AND its starting to make sence, especially when I go back and read the previous posts so forgive me but getting my head around this is beneficial in my eyes, which promotes a better quality job in the long run.

The Americans have a product which a specific DVD series use called Zero-Rust, its a spray on primer in black and red oxide, that can be applied to backside of panels to coat it and prevent further rust damage etc. It does contain an alkyd resin like the product you suggested Bomber.

As for a KBS coating product or POR15, sounds good, but the amount of washing and this and that, nah I prefer going to primer then top coat way.

So let me get this straight, Bomber going by your recommended products: the inner panel gets prepped to my liking (cleaned, wire wheeled up a bit/ or sanded, rust converter layed down, sand that if needed), a bit of 404 NS over that (can also be put on remaining paints as it states), then a top coat over that like a black 304 or 363 enamel, and done, move onto the next area?

oh and btw, I didn't realise with the Etchpro you can weld straight onto that stuff! Amazing! at least I didn't waste my money and I can use it as a weld through primer for that bit more insurance. Had to try it out, expected my wire to come out and nothing happen but no she sparked.

#24 UCANG

UCANG

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Name:Ang
  • Location:Adelaide, South Australia
  • Car:UC Hatch, UC Sedan, VL Turbo, ForFour Brabus, 2010 Fatboy
  • Joined: 28-January 06

Posted 31 October 2010 - 01:55 PM

or KBS coatings 3 step / POR15

#25 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 31 October 2010 - 02:28 PM

Sticking with all non catalized products, yes thats what i would do mate.

And yeah, Etchpro is good as a weld through primer...Hence why i suggested you clean the paint off the edges you intend to weld (or mask them prior) and just blow some etchpro over the bits your going to weld.

Cheers.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users