1974 LH TORANA RESTORATION
Started by
_LH SLR 3300_
, Dec 04 2010 05:58 PM
320 replies to this topic
#102
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 05:59 PM
Yep, fantastic work.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#103
_TUFF75LH355_
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 07:00 PM
love your work matt coming along great
#104
_nial8r_
_nial8r_
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 07:49 PM
looking good Matt, will you get much more clearence with that sump compaired to the reverse HQ sump ?? also them light have come up a treat 
will you get much more clearence with that sump compaired to the reverse HQ sump ?? also them light have come up a treat
#105
lxsstorana
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 08:21 PM
Great work as always Matt. 
#106
notna
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 09:14 PM
That zinc plate looks so good. I've had gold zinc done before, but the silver is so clean looking. I got to see this stuff in person last week, and it looks brilliant, as does the Torrie and all the work Matt has put into it. An outstanding and finely done resto thus far. Well done mate!
#107
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 09:35 PM
Thanks for the comments fellas . I'm taking a punt on the EFI Pacemakers clearing the windage tray sump Lee, i have the same style sump on my SL/R which also has Pacemaker headers so i think it'll be OK. Was a pleasure meeting you Anton, glad you like what i'm doing with my car, not quite a concourse resto as you're undertaking on your car but i think we have very similar ideas, looking forward to see how it turns out. I also had some bits gold cad plated, still can't believe how inexpensive it all was, probably the cheapest part of this build so far. I'm waiting on a front brake upgrade i bought to arrive & i'm sending the steering rack off to be recoed this week, hoping if all goes to plan i'll fit the engine to the car next weekend.
. I'm taking a punt on the EFI Pacemakers clearing the windage tray sump Lee, i have the same style sump on my SL/R which also has Pacemaker headers so i think it'll be OK. Was a pleasure meeting you Anton, glad you like what i'm doing with my car, not quite a concourse resto as you're undertaking on your car but i think we have very similar ideas, looking forward to see how it turns out. I also had some bits gold cad plated, still can't believe how inexpensive it all was, probably the cheapest part of this build so far. I'm waiting on a front brake upgrade i bought to arrive & i'm sending the steering rack off to be recoed this week, hoping if all goes to plan i'll fit the engine to the car next weekend.
#108
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 26 June 2011 - 06:19 PM
Got some more done to my car this weekend, front suspension is all together apart from the brakes.
Put the original disc rotors on so i could take the car off the chassis stands & get it rolling again, pushed it out of the carport for the first time in almost three months.
With help from my Mrs, fitted the engine & headers. Went in without too many dramas & spent the rest of the weekend fitting up the bits needed to make it run.
Pretty happy to go from this.
To this in just under three months.
Put the original disc rotors on so i could take the car off the chassis stands & get it rolling again, pushed it out of the carport for the first time in almost three months.
With help from my Mrs, fitted the engine & headers. Went in without too many dramas & spent the rest of the weekend fitting up the bits needed to make it run.
Pretty happy to go from this.
To this in just under three months.
#109
wot179
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Posted 26 June 2011 - 06:31 PM
Great stuff,Matt.
What prep did you give the items that you sent for zinc plating,and who did you use?
Ive seen different levels of success with zinc and cad plating,Ive never been sure if its the prep work or the plating process.
Ive seen it peel off on occasion,which just isnt right...
Are you 100% happy with the finish and service provided by your guy?
I personally think its better than chrome in many applications,and have a bunch of stuff here I want to get done.
I just need a good provider.
Cheers,Craig.
What prep did you give the items that you sent for zinc plating,and who did you use?
Ive seen different levels of success with zinc and cad plating,Ive never been sure if its the prep work or the plating process.
Ive seen it peel off on occasion,which just isnt right...
Are you 100% happy with the finish and service provided by your guy?
I personally think its better than chrome in many applications,and have a bunch of stuff here I want to get done.
I just need a good provider.
Cheers,Craig.
#110
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 26 June 2011 - 06:43 PM
Hi Craig.
Some of the items i had plated were in good condition so didn't really need any prep work, those that did i degreased & cleaned off any surface rust, paint etc. It's like any part you recondition, the better the prep work, the better the end result. I used All Metal Bumpers in Ingleburn. The plater only had problems with three of the brake lines for some reason, first couple of goes, the finish did have a blistering/poor adhesion issue, but he got them right in the end & overall his service, price & the quality of his work is excellent & i'd recommend him to anyone. For what my plans are with this car, chrome plating was never an option & i'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far & i have some more parts to go on the car i think you'll appreciate to. Cheers Matt
Some of the items i had plated were in good condition so didn't really need any prep work, those that did i degreased & cleaned off any surface rust, paint etc. It's like any part you recondition, the better the prep work, the better the end result. I used All Metal Bumpers in Ingleburn. The plater only had problems with three of the brake lines for some reason, first couple of goes, the finish did have a blistering/poor adhesion issue, but he got them right in the end & overall his service, price & the quality of his work is excellent & i'd recommend him to anyone. For what my plans are with this car, chrome plating was never an option & i'm pretty happy with how it's turned out so far & i have some more parts to go on the car i think you'll appreciate to. Cheers Matt
#111
_nial8r_
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Posted 26 June 2011 - 07:00 PM
HI Matt,the motor looks right at home, you have done another great job on this one too
will the extractors cause any heat problems to the oil temp as they look like they run pretty close to the R/H side or is it just camera angle ? and what brake set up are you going with on this one, same as the Orchid LH ? keep up the good work mate and keep the pic's coming
will the extractors cause any heat problems to the oil temp as they look like they run pretty close to the R/H side or is it just camera angle ? and what brake set up are you going with on this one, same as the Orchid LH ? keep up the good work mate and keep the pic's coming
#112
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 26 June 2011 - 07:17 PM
Hi Lee.
The headers do come close to the windage tray sump but don't actualy touch so i think it'll be OK. I almost considered having them ceramic coated to cut the heat down but decided not to. This car will have the same brakes as the Orchid car, i was planning on fitting HQ brakes but by the time i bought the conversion kit, discs, second calipers & recoed them it was easier & almost as cost effective to buy the larger brake kit. I also considered recoing the original brakes, but with the power the engine makes, the car would've been badly under braked so that idea was scraped fairly quick. Cheers Matt
The headers do come close to the windage tray sump but don't actualy touch so i think it'll be OK. I almost considered having them ceramic coated to cut the heat down but decided not to. This car will have the same brakes as the Orchid car, i was planning on fitting HQ brakes but by the time i bought the conversion kit, discs, second calipers & recoed them it was easier & almost as cost effective to buy the larger brake kit. I also considered recoing the original brakes, but with the power the engine makes, the car would've been badly under braked so that idea was scraped fairly quick. Cheers Matt
#114
notna
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 10:01 AM
Loving it Matt. Your missus is a top chick for helping you out with that. Many a time I have struggled on my own because my missus, even if she tried, wouldn't be able to help with THAT!
So do we call your project a "rolling resto"? If so, then it's the most detailed one I have seen.
Can I ask a question....? For a full front end rebuild, as you have done and I too am just about to do, is there a full list of parts available, or a rebuild kit of sorts? I need to do all the bushes as a start, including those that fit the rear of the subframe. Taaaa.
So do we call your project a "rolling resto"? If so, then it's the most detailed one I have seen.
Can I ask a question....? For a full front end rebuild, as you have done and I too am just about to do, is there a full list of parts available, or a rebuild kit of sorts? I need to do all the bushes as a start, including those that fit the rear of the subframe. Taaaa.
#115
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:18 PM
Yeah i'm pretty lucky to have a Mrs that doesn't mind lending me a hand with my cars, be it helping fit engines or rubbing back primer or paint stripping she never complains & even showed me up by getting a bastard bell housing bolt i struggled with for half an hour in within 10 minutes. Considering my build plan, the Rolling Resto tag will probably suit this car . As for the front end rebuild, i've seen complete bush kits on ebay but they were polyurethane & i wanted rubber as i think poly bushes are too harsh. I only fitted poly to the steering rack mounts. Basicly i replaced every wearing part & recoed the steering rack. What i bought was a k-frame mounting kit, $120 from Rare Spares, upper & lower control arm bushes (genuine GMH) $130, upper & lower ball joints $100, tie rod ends $30, steering coupling $120, steering rack mount bushes $45 & reconditioned steering rack $190. I already had the Pedders springs & Monroe shocks as i fitted them last year when the car was still running the 6 cyl. A bit of advice when building your front end, choose carefully who you get to press the bushes/balljoints in as the control arms can be damaged by an inexperienced operator who doesn't know what they are doing. Example, i made a special tool to prevent the lower control arms from being crushed when pressing in the bushes, some thing i've seen a few mechanics overlook.
. As for the front end rebuild, i've seen complete bush kits on ebay but they were polyurethane & i wanted rubber as i think poly bushes are too harsh. I only fitted poly to the steering rack mounts. Basicly i replaced every wearing part & recoed the steering rack. What i bought was a k-frame mounting kit, $120 from Rare Spares, upper & lower control arm bushes (genuine GMH) $130, upper & lower ball joints $100, tie rod ends $30, steering coupling $120, steering rack mount bushes $45 & reconditioned steering rack $190. I already had the Pedders springs & Monroe shocks as i fitted them last year when the car was still running the 6 cyl. A bit of advice when building your front end, choose carefully who you get to press the bushes/balljoints in as the control arms can be damaged by an inexperienced operator who doesn't know what they are doing. Example, i made a special tool to prevent the lower control arms from being crushed when pressing in the bushes, some thing i've seen a few mechanics overlook.
#116
_2ELCS_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 06:45 PM
G/day Matt it was good to catch up the other night at Harry's,your doing a top job on that car and thanx for kind coments about the Green gadget
Wayne
Wayne
#117
notna
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 08:32 PM
Awesome info and some stuff I wasn't aware of there. I note no copyright on your tool there Matt ;-) I'll have to knock one up myself then. Cheers for that!!
#118
_TUFF75LH355_
_TUFF75LH355_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:39 PM
hey matt who do you use to press in your bushes/balljoints ..??
#119
_LH SLR 3300_
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:46 PM
Hi Ben, i knocked all the old bushes etc out myself & had a mechanic mate whose workshop has a press help me fit the new ones. Cheers Matt
#120
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 02 July 2011 - 06:40 PM
More progress today doing a job i haven't looked forward to, but needed to be done. My car is a factory six seater & still had it's original bench seat, upon removal confirming my fears it did not have the extra captive nuts to fit bucket seats.
As i'm trying to make this car appear as factory original as possible, i didn't want use nuts,bolts & large washers to fit the bucket seats i have, so i cut some floor sections with the appropriate captive nuts & reinforcing plates that a forum member kindly donated from a rusted wreck. Then i unpicked the plates from the old bits of floorpan, cleaned them up, applied a weld thru primer.
Then i trial fitted the seats marking the floorpan where the holes for the captive nuts needed to be, then measuring & checking that they were exactly where they needed to be before drilling the holes. I placed the old floor sections from the donor car in place & they confirmed my measurements were OK.
Using the original seat bolts & a jack with a block of wood to position the plates against the floorpan, i plug welded the rear most plates in. As the front of the seats bolt onto a box section of the floorpan, i had to cut that section out, weld the plate to it & re-weld it back in.
One side welded in & finished off in primer.
I was starting to run out of daylight, so i tacked the other side in & called it a day. Tomorrow i'll finish welding & clean up some surface rust on the floor before sealing & painting both sides. Bolted the seats in to satisfy my own curiousity & they fitted perfectly confirming all my earlier measurements & trial fitting were OK.
As i'm trying to make this car appear as factory original as possible, i didn't want use nuts,bolts & large washers to fit the bucket seats i have, so i cut some floor sections with the appropriate captive nuts & reinforcing plates that a forum member kindly donated from a rusted wreck. Then i unpicked the plates from the old bits of floorpan, cleaned them up, applied a weld thru primer.
Then i trial fitted the seats marking the floorpan where the holes for the captive nuts needed to be, then measuring & checking that they were exactly where they needed to be before drilling the holes. I placed the old floor sections from the donor car in place & they confirmed my measurements were OK.
Using the original seat bolts & a jack with a block of wood to position the plates against the floorpan, i plug welded the rear most plates in. As the front of the seats bolt onto a box section of the floorpan, i had to cut that section out, weld the plate to it & re-weld it back in.
One side welded in & finished off in primer.
I was starting to run out of daylight, so i tacked the other side in & called it a day. Tomorrow i'll finish welding & clean up some surface rust on the floor before sealing & painting both sides. Bolted the seats in to satisfy my own curiousity & they fitted perfectly confirming all my earlier measurements & trial fitting were OK.
#121
_Liam_
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Posted 03 July 2011 - 09:55 AM
My LX is a factory 6 seat as well, the buckets were fitted to mine by someone (ex owner) cutting into the rail so they could stick their fingers in to put a nut on the bolt through the seat... 
Yours looks much better lol.
Yours looks much better lol.
#122
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 03 July 2011 - 12:06 PM
Exactly what i didn't want to do, i'm lucky that my car was 100% unmodified from original when i got it so any mods i need to do can be done properly & hopefully match the original manufacturer's specs.
#123
lxsstorana
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Posted 03 July 2011 - 03:53 PM
Great work Matt, very impressive.
You could probably make a nice living doing this sort of work.
Cheers Mick.
You could probably make a nice living doing this sort of work.
Cheers Mick.
#124
notna
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Posted 03 July 2011 - 04:32 PM
Attention to detail always wins in the end. Quality work Matt. Love it.
#125
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 03 July 2011 - 05:53 PM
Thanks for the comments fellas, not a real exciting development in my progress, but i thought i may as well put pics of the finished job. I had some of the original colour in 2K basecoat, so i sprayed the areas where i welded the captive nut plates in. I couldn't be bothered treating the surface rust on the rest of the floor, i'll sort that out another time.
Fitted the seats & carpet, may try & fit the B&M shifter during the week.
Fitted the seats & carpet, may try & fit the B&M shifter during the week.
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