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Dirtbags dream car rebuild! HK monaro!


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#276 _A9XOSS_

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 05:57 PM

top shelf work yet again, all i can say is WOW.

#277 _Quagmire_

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 11:50 PM

Seen the price of thick wall RHS lately? Plus, who has the time for that??? I'm behind enough as it is!!!! :sad:


put bomber on the job if he makes it down
make a change from grabbing cuppas and changing cd's/maccas runs

#278 _dirtbag_

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 08:35 AM

Well I've been trying to get small bits done when I can, as the 55 kombi is getting most of my attention lately, but I did finally start the welding process yesterday.

I'm just using an oxy to do the main welding.


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The wheelarch is fully welded now which is good.


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#279 Stinga

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 09:51 AM

Hey Tim, looking good. is the oxy weld alot easier to grind down then the mig?

#280 _dirtbag_

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 03:49 PM

Yes it is, as it only puts in the metal I feed it with filler rod, as opposed to the mig jamming it in there all the time. Oxy welds can also be panel beaten.

#281 _Viper_

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 04:48 PM

Is it hard to not warp the panel with oxy? Can you do a whole line at a time or small stiches then move onto another spot?

#282 _dirtbag_

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 05:32 PM

The panel will distort to a certain extent as you're welding, but as it cools it will shrink again. I move around the panel as much as I can to spread the heat evenly, and not get big hot spots. It depends on how big an area you're welding. Even if the weld distorts really badly, you can just use the oxy on the weld to shrink it back in. Or if it needs stretching you can stretch it with a hammer and dolly. It's good to hammer and dolly the welds flat anyway.

#283 _jabba_

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 06:23 PM

Ahh fancy, looks good :).

#284 _dirtbag_

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:07 PM

Well I didn't get any actual work as such done on the monaro today, but I did get everything I needed to get done to the 55 kombi ute so I could take it off the hoist.

I need to fix a dent on the front of the radiator support panel, so figured bolting the engine bay back on would be the best way to do the repair and be certain the engine bay will keep it's shape.


Once I put the engine bay back on I moved the car so I could get it onto the hoist.

Here's the yummy crap I'd been sweeping under the car : )


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It's good to see it in a different position.

I lowered the front too hahaha.


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It was a struggle but I finally got it into position to get on the hoist.


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Here's the dent I need to fix.


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Have I mentioned how much I love my hoist?


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I got to get a good look at the rear valance. It's pretty stuffed but the owner supplied a rare spares replacement. Yay!


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There's a tiny bit of rust on the inside too, so I'll fix these bits when I cut the outer panel off.


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The floors look perfect though.


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Inside the plenum is perfect too. Apart from some dodgy repairs and usual rust this is a really good shell. It could be a LOT worse.


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Having it in the air will make it a lot easier to fully weld the lower parts of the new rear guard too.


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I'll get back into the fun stuff next week.

#285 _Viper_

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:52 PM

+1 Request for a step by step when you fix that dent :D

Looking at the pic I got no idea where I would even start? except maybe put a bolt in that hole and try pull it out?

#286 _dirtbag_

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 07:06 PM

I'll probably cut the top off, beat the lower part into shape, then beat the top bit into shape on the bench then weld it back on.

#287 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 08:36 AM

hi dirtbag,

your doing excellent work,there arn,t to many people anymore that have the experience,and patiance to do this kind of work.

hope you do this for a long time,as many people need someone with your skill to restore basket cases.

#288 _Quagmire_

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 02:22 PM

he needs an apprantice
so that if he goes into the great unknown his legacy can live on :)
now who would like to offer thier first born? :buttrock:

#289 _Squarepants_

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 07:46 PM

I will give him my first born if he makes me his apprentice!
Me and DB... :Buddy:

#290 Bart

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 08:15 PM

Is it hard to not warp the panel with oxy? Can you do a whole line at a time or small stiches then move onto another spot?

Henrob 2000 "should" reduce the chance of warpage compared to the normal oxy. But when you're as good as Dirtbag a normal oxy will suffice.

The panel will distort to a certain extent as you're welding, but as it cools it will shrink again. I move around the panel as much as I can to spread the heat evenly, and not get big hot spots. It depends on how big an area you're welding. Even if the weld distorts really badly, you can just use the oxy on the weld to shrink it back in. Or if it needs stretching you can stretch it with a hammer and dolly. It's good to hammer and dolly the welds flat anyway.

Did you use normal filler rod or mig wire with oxy??

#291 _dirtbag_

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Posted 18 June 2011 - 10:23 PM

I've tried a henrob before and wasn't taken by it. Having said that I know a few people who swear by them so to each their own : )

For filler wire I just use mild steel wire. That way there is nothing in the weld but mild steel, meaning panel beating/shrinking/stretching is as easy as a panel without a weld through it.

#292 Bart

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 11:35 AM

I've tried a henrob before and wasn't taken by it. Having said that I know a few people who swear by them so to each their own : )

For filler wire I just use mild steel wire. That way there is nothing in the weld but mild steel, meaning panel beating/shrinking/stretching is as easy as a panel without a weld through it.

You mean uncoated mild steel wire?

#293 _dirtbag_

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 11:45 AM

Yep. It goes rusty when not being used so I usually cut about 2 foot off at a time and sand the surface rust off it with 120 then it's good to go. Cheap too.

#294 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 02:26 PM

does it rust from the moisture in the air?

#295 _dirtbag_

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 03:11 PM

Yes. It's exactly the same material as cold rolled steel sheet, which also goes rusty lying around. That's another reason why I use zinc sheet : )

#296 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 04:35 PM

oh thats interesting

#297 GML-31

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 04:51 PM

my uncle used to have an old fridge with just a small light bulb in it to place things to prevent rust

#298 Bart

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 10:06 PM

Nah why not

http://www.metacafe....el_coat_hanger/

#299 Bart

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 10:09 PM

Yep. It goes rusty when not being used so I usually cut about 2 foot off at a time and sand the surface rust off it with 120 then it's good to go. Cheap too.

Thanks mate

#300 _mick74lh_

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 08:56 PM

my uncle used to have an old fridge with just a small light bulb in it to place things to prevent rust



Please excuse my stupidity if theres an obvious answer but how does a fridge with a small light in it prevent stuff from rusting? Surely there would be oxygen inside the fridge?




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