Dirtbags dream car rebuild! HK monaro!
#301 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:10 PM
Cheers.
#302 _mick74lh_
Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:48 PM
#303
Posted 21 June 2011 - 09:53 PM
my uncle used to have an old fridge with just a small light bulb in it to place things to prevent rust
I'm guessing here but maybe GML-31's uncle had trained the monkey that turns the light off when you shut the door to wipe the moisture off the items to prevent rust?
#304 _Quagmire_
Posted 21 June 2011 - 10:32 PM
but could you use moth balls or that hippo stuff in the fridge to absourb the moisture?
even that silica stuff found in dried meat packs sometimes?
#305 _L32M20_
Posted 22 June 2011 - 07:26 PM
#306 _dirtbag_
Posted 22 June 2011 - 07:34 PM
I did a bit more on the old beast lately. Nothing major, but at least it's something.
I refitted the engine bay so I could fix this dent in the front.
Not only was the inner and outer skin on the front part bent, but the rear part was bowed in as well.
I started by making a new top piece, then using it as a guide as to how much to cut off.
It was too difficult to get into the panel to beat it out, and it's surprisingly thick steel, so I cut the lower part off as well.
Here's how it was.
And here it is after I cut it out, bashed it into shape on the bashing frame and welded it back in.
Then I cut the captive nut out of the old top skin and welded it into the new one. I also drilled a row of holes to plug weld it back along the lip at the front.
I'm sure there are panel beaters on this forum who know a million better ways to fix a dent like that, but I'm not a panel beater, and I don't have any fancy pullers or anything, plus doing it this way was more fun. Also, by cutting it open I was able to clean up inside a bit and cover it all in rust converter.
Next thing I wanted to do was fill all the holes in the engine bay. The owner doesn't want it all smoothed out or anything, but I don't know what any of these holes are for so I'll weld them up and I can easily drill in holes as they're needed when doing assembly. I just hate seeing a newly painted bay, smooth or not, full of unused holes.
Weldie weldie : )
Grindie grindie
I also fixed the bit of rust in the radiator support.
Then welded and ground all the holes on the other side.
I also ground all the welds back on the underside too, just so it looked neater.
I then backed the trusty Jeep underneath so I could drop the engine bay into the back.
Then I tied it on and took it down to get blasted.
I also picked up the new front and rear springs and Koni adjustable shocks.
That's it for now. I've been knee deep in kombi utes!!!
#307 _jabba_
Posted 22 June 2011 - 07:42 PM
#308
Posted 22 June 2011 - 08:13 PM
#309 _Viper_
Posted 22 June 2011 - 08:22 PM
#310 _dirtbag_
Posted 22 June 2011 - 08:29 PM
Ahh was interested on how ya were gonna fix that dent (as mentioned) good stuff..... Lesson learnt.... if you dont have access to panel beat a area... just cut stuff out the way untill you do then weld it back together
Yeah, works for me : )
Hey WOT. Thanks for the info regarding some of those holes. I just feel it will be easier to redrill the holes I need where I want them and not risk having extra holes with nothing in them. Well, in my mind it makes sense : ) hahahaha.
#311
Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:34 AM
Welding the holes in the engine bay is no biggie unless you are trying to reproduce a 100% factory car.
I do like original restorations but some people can tend to go a bit loopy on small things.
#312 _dirtbag_
Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:38 AM
Some of the holes were obviously not factory, and my knowledge of these cars isn't good enough to know which ones were needed and which weren't, so I took the safe route and got rid of all of them : )
#313
Posted 23 June 2011 - 09:03 AM
#314 _sting_
Posted 23 June 2011 - 09:31 AM
#315 _dirtbag_
Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:12 PM
Well today I decided I'd better get this rear guard welded on once and for all. I'd been putting it off as it takes a while and isn't exactly what you'd call exciting.
Anyway, it's all done now.
I used the mig though to do the bottom of the guard where it meets the spare wheel well. It was a lot easier and isn't likely to need panel beating there.
I sanded it all down with a 36 grit sanding disc on the grinder. Gives a great key for the etch primer to hang on to.
Next job was going to be to start on the other rear guard, as it has some issues too.
But instead I thought I'd tackle the rear panel under the bumper.
Have I mentioned lately how much I love my plasma cutter?
Ta-da!!!!! More awesomeness hahahaha!!! Check out the huge half inch thick smear of fibreglass bog. Very tasty : )
There is some rust in the panel behind as well, so this can all get fixed now.
More stinking brass weld.
It's not totally rusted all the way across, just bits and pieces.
Before I cut the lower part of the inner panel off, I folded up a new piece to make sure it was the right shape. I can trim the top edge down as I go.
Then I cut the old bits off.
And here is what I have left so far.
Between this and the kombi ute the day went pretty fast. This is all I got done on this today as the welding took a fair while. Panel held its shape really well though so it was worth taking my time.
Edited by dirtbag, 23 June 2011 - 08:14 PM.
#316
Posted 23 June 2011 - 10:01 PM
#317 _dirtbag_
Posted 26 June 2011 - 10:28 AM
Well i got the engine bay back from the blasters yesterday.
I wasn't 100% sure of what would show it's head after blasting, but luckily there were only two easily fixed rust spots that need replacing, just where the top of the bay meets the firewall. The rest is excellent.
The owner dropped by yesterday and we decided a little bit of engine bay cleanup couldn't hurt, so before I primed it I removed the mount for the battery tray.
I also removed the mounts for the mechanical accelerator shaft. I'll convert it to cable.
The rear guard was also rust converted.
Then I primed it all.
Just so you know, the tarp isn't on the floor in the next pic because I'm worried about dirtying my floor, it's to stop dirt blowing up off the floor and onto the panel. It doesn't matter how well you sweep it, there's always dirt just waiting to get into paint!!!
I also went and picked up a VT commodore brake booster and master cylinder for it. They look a lot neater, work better and it's already set up for 4 wheel discs. Bargain.
#318 _shadowmaster_
Posted 26 June 2011 - 03:52 PM
By the way very well done Tim quality effort as usual
#319 _dirtbag_
Posted 26 June 2011 - 05:56 PM
Apart from having to modify the firewall, the bracket inside the firewall, and the rod coming out of the booster it just fits straight on : ) hahaha.
Sorry. The four bolt holes on the new booster need new holes, the large hole in the firewall where the booster fits through needs to be made bigger, and the rod coming out of the booster needs to me shortened. I used this same booster set up on my brothers hatch and liked it, so happy to fit it in here too.
#320 _toranatime_
Posted 26 June 2011 - 06:56 PM
i asked this question in another one of your threads but you mustn't have seen it yet.
i was just interested in how i would be able to fold up some window frame corners and similar repair pieces without using a shrinker/stretcher? i am going to make a panbrake which should be fine for bending straight lips, and it will get me out of trouble. but what i am asking is there another way i can bend the pieces of plate to match the corners radius once they have a lip folded on them? i don't really want to get a shrinker/stretcher just to make 1 or 2 repair pieces. also what do you cut panel sections out with? grinder, reciprocating saw, plasma or a combination of all of them? any help would be great, and sorry for posting in two build threads i was just hoping to get a fairly quick reply.
thanks and sorry for all the questions i'm new to restoration of cars, i just want to learn from someone who really knows what they are doing, so i can do it the right way the first time with the least ammount of headaches.
cheers mate
#321
Posted 26 June 2011 - 07:51 PM
#322 _Liam_
Posted 26 June 2011 - 08:43 PM
#323
Posted 26 June 2011 - 10:38 PM
#324 _Quagmire_
Posted 27 June 2011 - 01:41 AM
car will have standard hubcaps although slightly wider rims
???? this one of yours?>
or you know the owner
comon fess up
#325 _dirtbag_
Posted 05 July 2011 - 06:02 PM
I cant help but think it should have a custom flat firewall. I think it would tidy it up more if the customer wants tidy
hehehe.....
So, first step was sanding down the lips where the heater box used to sit. I have to leave as much of the original firewall in place for rego, so I'm just going to flatten/remove what I have to and leave the rest in place. I'll just weld the 1.6mm sheet over the top.
Then I welded the front handbrake lever mount to the firewall, where the two bolts used to stick through.
Then I removed the wiper motor lump and the centre section with the 3 ribs. That is all I'm removing.
Here's the new piece. I've only cut the top to shape and tek screwed it on to mark out the rest of the shape.
Starting to fit a little better now.
I will stitch weld where the old and new pieces meet on the inside once it's fully welded on the outside.
Then I had a bit of a weldathon : )
It just wouldn't be one of my builds if it didn't get some rust converter : )
Well next job will be to finish the rear panel I cut off earlier, I just wanted to get this done because I really enjoy doing smooth firewalls. I'll also do a bit of smoothing in the engine bay itself. Nothing drastic, just clean up some of the factory uglies.
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