Brush is all I use.
Dirtbags dream car rebuild! HK monaro!
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Dec 24 2010 04:04 AM
416 replies to this topic
#352
_purpleLC_
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Posted 21 July 2011 - 07:54 PM
Great work as usual Dirtbag.
Can I ask, what do you paint the inner panels with?
I see them primered and then you weld a panel over them.
Do you leave them just under primer?
Cheers Louie.
Can I ask, what do you paint the inner panels with?
I see them primered and then you weld a panel over them.
Do you leave them just under primer?
Cheers Louie.
#353
_Liam_
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Posted 21 July 2011 - 07:59 PM
Factory uses the oxide primer. So I could only assume the 2k etch woulda be much better protection than the oxide.
#354
_dirtbag_
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Posted 21 July 2011 - 10:02 PM
^^^ what he said : )
Most restos don't even get inside the panels so I figure anything I do in there is a plus.
The 2k epoxy etch is pretty good stuff. I guess putting topcoat over it would be the best way to seal it, but that's just going too far in my opinion.
Most restos don't even get inside the panels so I figure anything I do in there is a plus.
The 2k epoxy etch is pretty good stuff. I guess putting topcoat over it would be the best way to seal it, but that's just going too far in my opinion.
#355
_artworxfx_
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Posted 22 July 2011 - 11:20 AM
^^^ what he said : )
Most restos don't even get inside the panels so I figure anything I do in there is a plus.
The 2k epoxy etch is pretty good stuff. I guess putting topcoat over it would be the best way to seal it, but that's just going too far in my opinion.
Tim excellent work as always on ALL your cars! All your 'INSIDE WORK" is sure going to last a lot longer than the factory effort! Yep no need for a top coat !
#356
_dirtbag_
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Posted 07 August 2011 - 04:07 AM
Thanks Terry : )
Well I finally pulled my finger out and did a bit more to this lovely beast.
I trimmed the front of the replacement panel off, as it had the return for going inside the door jam. I like to keep the original jam in place where possible so I know the gaps wont change.
I also let the panel overlap by about 5 mm, so it can sit in place without falling into the car. When I'm happy with how it fits, I tack it on, then run the 1mm cut off disc around the edge to trim the over lap off and butt weld it all. I hate overlaps!
Once happy with the fit, it got welded on.
When tacking the top section on I had to make sure the swages lined up perfectly. Luckily these rare spares panels are pretty good. My only issue with them is there isn't enough peak in the swage that runs horizontally through the middle of the lower piece. That can be sorted out later though with a hammer and dolly.
Bit of welding!
And of course some rust converter
Also in case you're wondering why I sanded the new pieces back to bare metal, well the black primer they come in is good protection while they're in storage, but it's not good enough to base a whole paint job on. When I sanded the primer off these panels it literally flaked off in one inch sized chunks. Took about minutes to remove the paint from both pieces. Lovely : )
Well I finally pulled my finger out and did a bit more to this lovely beast.
I trimmed the front of the replacement panel off, as it had the return for going inside the door jam. I like to keep the original jam in place where possible so I know the gaps wont change.
I also let the panel overlap by about 5 mm, so it can sit in place without falling into the car. When I'm happy with how it fits, I tack it on, then run the 1mm cut off disc around the edge to trim the over lap off and butt weld it all. I hate overlaps!
Once happy with the fit, it got welded on.
When tacking the top section on I had to make sure the swages lined up perfectly. Luckily these rare spares panels are pretty good. My only issue with them is there isn't enough peak in the swage that runs horizontally through the middle of the lower piece. That can be sorted out later though with a hammer and dolly.
Bit of welding!
And of course some rust converter
Also in case you're wondering why I sanded the new pieces back to bare metal, well the black primer they come in is good protection while they're in storage, but it's not good enough to base a whole paint job on. When I sanded the primer off these panels it literally flaked off in one inch sized chunks. Took about minutes to remove the paint from both pieces. Lovely : )
#357
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 02:09 PM
Just read through this whole thread...absolutely amazing work... I can't wait to see more progress and the finished product... I love how when you find a little rust in the frame underneath you get stuck right into it until everything is perfect...simply amazing effort
#358
Mort
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 04:45 PM
Tim can't remember if it's been asked or you've explained it before, but how long can you leave a panel bare metal and painted with the rust converter before it starts to get surface rust assuming it's kept in a shed, i know it will depend on the conditions, just a rough idea is all i'm after.
#359
_dirtbag_
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 08:49 PM
Thanks sheel :-)
Mort, I sometimes leave bare metal I'm rust converter for over a year, but I'll sand it and reapply the converter before I etch prime just to make sure it's still rust free.
The underside of the bonneville that's on the rotisserie has been in rust converter for well over a year and is still rust free. Gotta love that :-)
Mort, I sometimes leave bare metal I'm rust converter for over a year, but I'll sand it and reapply the converter before I etch prime just to make sure it's still rust free.
The underside of the bonneville that's on the rotisserie has been in rust converter for well over a year and is still rust free. Gotta love that :-)
#360
_Liam_
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 08:56 PM
Mine lasted in the shed for roughly 12 months and had some surface rust appearing. Probably would have lasted longer if it was hanging.
I used Septone Rust Converter. Cleaned with degreaser first and a cup wire brush, rust converter, water and methylated spirits straight after the water... It looks like soap scum on the panel, and will be fine for months on end, with no rust at all.
I used Septone Rust Converter. Cleaned with degreaser first and a cup wire brush, rust converter, water and methylated spirits straight after the water... It looks like soap scum on the panel, and will be fine for months on end, with no rust at all.
#361
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 08:59 PM
Location is an important factor.....Closer you are to the big blue things all around the country the shorter you can leave stuff.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#362
_dirtbag_
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 09:01 PM
Yep bomber is right.
The converter I use is just brush on and leave stuff. Never understood putting water on bare metal :-)
The converter I use is just brush on and leave stuff. Never understood putting water on bare metal :-)
#363
Mort
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Posted 10 August 2011 - 09:30 PM
I pretty safe with the blue stuff Bomber, i live about 200k's away from it, just gotta make sure the pool water stays in the pool and away from the shed 
#364
_dirtbag_
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Posted 19 August 2011 - 06:56 PM
Well I finally got to do a bit more to the beastie.
I'm going to attack the engine bay and make it a bit neater.
Here's what it looks like standard.
All these lumps and bumps and the big hole will be going. This side (drivers) has an extra big indent for where the brake booster used to sit. Don't need that any more : )
These are going too.
Well I started by replacing the big wedge shaped indent at the front.
I made the new piece by bending it over my leg and using the planishing hammer to give it some crown. I then used the new piece as a template to mark out where I had to cut. I made the new piece a rectangle as it's a much simpler shape to cut out than an oval.
Next to go were these grooves.
I cut and replaced them one set at a time so the inner guard didn't lose it's shape.
Time to lose the big hole : )
This time I bent the new piece over the gas bottle on my mig and again used the planishing hammer to crown the panel. I also cut and reshaped the area behind where this piece is going. It used to have a big wedge shaped into it. Looks better now.
Ready for some huge pipes now : )
The differences aren't massive, but they do neaten it all up.
I still have to seam weld the chassis rails and do something with the gap under the steering, but it's done apart from that on this side.
A little bit of new metal in here : )
The other side was just more of the same. The big wedge shape at the front was bigger on this side. I assume for the battery maybe?
Hole be gone : )
Just got the big bit in the middle to get it to the same stage as the other side.
I made the new piece up, but ran out of day to actually fit it. Once this is in place I'll fully weld the chassis rails and look at doing something with the gap at the back of the engine bay. I think it would look a lot better steeled out.
Here's what I cut out today. I still have to cut the big piece out of the passengers side too : )
So that's it until next time : )
I'm going to attack the engine bay and make it a bit neater.
Here's what it looks like standard.
All these lumps and bumps and the big hole will be going. This side (drivers) has an extra big indent for where the brake booster used to sit. Don't need that any more : )
These are going too.
Well I started by replacing the big wedge shaped indent at the front.
I made the new piece by bending it over my leg and using the planishing hammer to give it some crown. I then used the new piece as a template to mark out where I had to cut. I made the new piece a rectangle as it's a much simpler shape to cut out than an oval.
Next to go were these grooves.
I cut and replaced them one set at a time so the inner guard didn't lose it's shape.
Time to lose the big hole : )
This time I bent the new piece over the gas bottle on my mig and again used the planishing hammer to crown the panel. I also cut and reshaped the area behind where this piece is going. It used to have a big wedge shaped into it. Looks better now.
Ready for some huge pipes now : )
The differences aren't massive, but they do neaten it all up.
I still have to seam weld the chassis rails and do something with the gap under the steering, but it's done apart from that on this side.
A little bit of new metal in here : )
The other side was just more of the same. The big wedge shape at the front was bigger on this side. I assume for the battery maybe?
Hole be gone : )
Just got the big bit in the middle to get it to the same stage as the other side.
I made the new piece up, but ran out of day to actually fit it. Once this is in place I'll fully weld the chassis rails and look at doing something with the gap at the back of the engine bay. I think it would look a lot better steeled out.
Here's what I cut out today. I still have to cut the big piece out of the passengers side too : )
So that's it until next time : )
#365
_SLR Torrie_
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Posted 19 August 2011 - 07:55 PM
Very nice Tim! Could have almost made a new engine bay with all the mods your doing there.
John.
John.
#366
Stinga
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Posted 19 August 2011 - 08:02 PM
nice work on the engine bay Tim, im keen to see how the chassis rail part turns out. i just cant visualise it. dunno how you keep track of so many projects at once!
#367
Bart
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Posted 20 August 2011 - 08:54 AM
should look smooth
#368
SHEEL
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Posted 29 August 2011 - 04:44 PM
More awesome work... I don't know if I mentioned in one of your other projects but I would be very keen to see progress shots when you weld the panels in... I know you tack them with the mig But I remember reading that you finish with oxy... that's the bit I'm interested in... I have welded a few panels before but just mig'd the whole lot and tried to just do small sections at a time to keep the panel getting to hot and warping...
I have access to an oxy so I wouldn't mind having a crack with it next time I do a project... which could be a while but still.. would be nice to know how to do it.
I have access to an oxy so I wouldn't mind having a crack with it next time I do a project... which could be a while but still.. would be nice to know how to do it.
#369
_dirtbag_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 08:29 AM
Hi Daniel. Oxy is just a case of practice. It's pretty easy to get the basics down. I'll try to remember to take some pics next time I'm doing some oxy welding.
Well I did a bit more in the engine bay last week.
I started by seam welding the chassis rail on the drivers side.
Some nice primer burn here hahaha.
Next thing was filling this huge gap.
Here's a pic of the other side just as a reference.
The chassis looks a bit better welded.
I also cut out a small section that had a lump and hole which I assume was for the bonnet cable? Anyway it's gone now : )
It still looks unmistakebly like an HK engine bay, only it's a lot simpler looking. I just need to finish the passengers side now!
Well I did a bit more in the engine bay last week.
I started by seam welding the chassis rail on the drivers side.
Some nice primer burn here hahaha.
Next thing was filling this huge gap.
Here's a pic of the other side just as a reference.
The chassis looks a bit better welded.
I also cut out a small section that had a lump and hole which I assume was for the bonnet cable? Anyway it's gone now : )
It still looks unmistakebly like an HK engine bay, only it's a lot simpler looking. I just need to finish the passengers side now!
#370
SHEEL
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 12:34 PM
incredible.... I love reading dirtbag threads!
#371
Bart
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 08:49 PM
A Corvette Quad Cam would fill the hole nicely.
Oh, with twin turbos
Oh, with twin turbos
#372
_Bomber Watson_
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#373
Bart
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Posted 06 September 2011 - 09:25 AM
Thatl dohttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/off-topic/1693915-supercharged-dohc-572-cid-on-the-dyno.html
#374
Bart
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#375
_dirtbag_
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Posted 11 November 2011 - 10:07 AM
Well it's been a while between posts, so I thought I'd do a quick update.
I rust converted and primed the rear quarter and engine bay first.
Next job was to make room in the plenum for the under dash brake assembly.
Chop chop.
i made up a frame that connects to each side of the firewall, so the firewall isn't carrying any of the load from the brake pedal. It's a legal requirement.
It's not pretty, but it's strong.
It's always fun when you get so much crap on you that your tattoos start to disappear : ) I'd already washed my arm once before this hahaha
I've got a new roommate in the shed too. He/she is about 3 foot long when stretched out. Cool little goanna : )
Anyway, next thing to do was weld in the frame. Even though the frame can support itself, I tied it to the firewall as well.
With the assembly properly mounted I had to then make a new inner plenum that would clear it.
All welded and rust converted.
Primed.
I then cleaned up and converted the inside of the outer plenum.
Then stuck it back on : )
The wipers will be converted to cable drive, so everything can still function properly.
Next job was to finish the metal work on the passengers side of the engine bay.
Here's the new piece getting welded in. I'll also smooth out the indent to the left. I bought a Milwaukee magnetic earth for the welder. Seems good.
I then seam welded the chassis rail.
It's getting there now. Just need to fill the gap near the firewall.
I still have to sand back the welds, but then it's ready for some rust converter and primer and I think the metal work in the engine bay is now done : )
That's it : )
I rust converted and primed the rear quarter and engine bay first.
Next job was to make room in the plenum for the under dash brake assembly.
Chop chop.
i made up a frame that connects to each side of the firewall, so the firewall isn't carrying any of the load from the brake pedal. It's a legal requirement.
It's not pretty, but it's strong.
It's always fun when you get so much crap on you that your tattoos start to disappear : ) I'd already washed my arm once before this hahaha
I've got a new roommate in the shed too. He/she is about 3 foot long when stretched out. Cool little goanna : )
Anyway, next thing to do was weld in the frame. Even though the frame can support itself, I tied it to the firewall as well.
With the assembly properly mounted I had to then make a new inner plenum that would clear it.
All welded and rust converted.
Primed.
I then cleaned up and converted the inside of the outer plenum.
Then stuck it back on : )
The wipers will be converted to cable drive, so everything can still function properly.
Next job was to finish the metal work on the passengers side of the engine bay.
Here's the new piece getting welded in. I'll also smooth out the indent to the left. I bought a Milwaukee magnetic earth for the welder. Seems good.
I then seam welded the chassis rail.
It's getting there now. Just need to fill the gap near the firewall.
I still have to sand back the welds, but then it's ready for some rust converter and primer and I think the metal work in the engine bay is now done : )
That's it : )
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