Good work......looking forward to see how you straighten the old girl out.
Think you should mid mount the chev in that kombi while you got it all cut down though.....hahaha that would be something different.
Dirtbags dream car rebuild! HK monaro!
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Dec 24 2010 04:04 AM
416 replies to this topic
#126
fenz
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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:20 PM
#127
_dirtbag_
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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:26 PM
true, but then I wouldn't be able to get it registered : (
#128
_dirtbag_
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Posted 30 March 2011 - 07:30 PM
Far out the etch primer really shows you what work is still to be done hey?
I'm guessing you won't be fixing any of that with bog?
No, not bog. Today while chopping the kombi ute apart I found heaps of plastic bags stuffed in some of the rust holes, so I might give that a go too : )
In all seriousness though, yes, I'm just going to bog it up, then put XD tail lights in it, and paint it beige : )
OK, really serious, I'll end up making the front of the rear quarters from scratch, and repair the rear halves. I'll have to make a new rear valance too. Should be fun : )
#129
_Spark Eater_
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 01:44 PM
did someone shoot it with some kind of gravel cannon? how do those dents happen to the side of a panel, it looks like it was caught in the crossfire of gang warfare.
that forwards fueltank is cool for centralising mass, but what's with the straight 6, unless it's for weight reasons also I would have thought a v8 would be in there.
this looks like the closest thing to a chevy nova that australia makes. if you love the movie DEATH PROOF as much as I do, this car needs matt black paint, 350chev, and a skull and lightining bolts on the bonnet. forget the interior, put in a roll cage and autometer gauges and use it for car chases.
but looking at your other cars, whatever happens to it it'll be badass.
that forwards fueltank is cool for centralising mass, but what's with the straight 6, unless it's for weight reasons also I would have thought a v8 would be in there.
this looks like the closest thing to a chevy nova that australia makes. if you love the movie DEATH PROOF as much as I do, this car needs matt black paint, 350chev, and a skull and lightining bolts on the bonnet. forget the interior, put in a roll cage and autometer gauges and use it for car chases.
but looking at your other cars, whatever happens to it it'll be badass.
Edited by Spark Eater, 01 April 2011 - 01:46 PM.
#130
_Quagmire_
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 02:24 PM
psssst sparkie
he does it for a living
the car was supplied with the 6 like that ex factory too at a guess
i'm sure the owner will swap it out if he feels like it
no offence dirtbag i love your work and enjoy seeing how you spend yours days at "work"
he does it for a living
the car was supplied with the 6 like that ex factory too at a guess
i'm sure the owner will swap it out if he feels like it
no offence dirtbag i love your work and enjoy seeing how you spend yours days at "work"
#131
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 03:10 PM
Hi Dirtbag
Love your work mate.
This might be easier than trying to make a new rear beaver from scratch.
http://www.rarespare...x?product=H1145
Cheers
Dave.
Love your work mate.
This might be easier than trying to make a new rear beaver from scratch.
http://www.rarespare...x?product=H1145
Cheers
Dave.
Edited by S pack, 01 April 2011 - 03:11 PM.
#132
_dirtbag_
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 04:38 PM
Cheers for bringing that to my attention Dave. Not too badly priced either. They also do the front half of the rear quarter panels. Very handy : ) I wonder if they stock any of it though? Or does it jave to be ordered before manufacture?
#133
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:47 PM
Cheers for bringing that to my attention Dave. Not too badly priced either. They also do the front half of the rear quarter panels. Very handy : ) I wonder if they stock any of it though? Or does it jave to be ordered before manufacture?
Would imagine they are stock items, give Tony a call down here at Rare Spares Brisbane in Virginia, Ph. 3216 2600.
#134
_dirtbag_
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Posted 05 April 2011 - 07:40 PM
Thanks for the advice Dave, I rang Tony and have ordered a few rust repair panels that will hopefully save me some time, so cheers again.
So today was so much fun. I have the flu, so feel very bad! I've only had the flu once before so am not used to it's horridness.
So with the rest of the car stripped back and etch primed, the engine bay was next.
The radiator support also got stripped back. Did I mention how fun it was?
The lower part of the radiator support has had a hit at some stage, so I'll fix this along the way.
The only rust hole I could find in the radiator support was this little one under the drivers headlight.
I know it looks a bit crusty, and has had a few hits in the rear end, it's a pretty solid car. The floors look good too, and the underneath looks pretty clean. I think I'll keep this one : )
Whoops, a bit fell out!
The lower stepped bolts that held the front on just wouldn't come out, so they ended up getting a tad destroyed. I'm not sure if new ones are available, but if not I'll machine some up. I'll ring Tony at Rare Spares again when the time comes.
There is some pretty ugly surface rust where the engine bay used to sit, but I don't think it's really as bad as it looks.
The engine bay needs a bit more cleaning up before I can prime it, and I think I'll weld some holes up before I prime it too.
So there you go. That's all I did on this one today, but once I get over this yucky flu and the rust repair panels show up it should happen reasonably fast. Then I can keep it : )
So today was so much fun. I have the flu, so feel very bad! I've only had the flu once before so am not used to it's horridness.
So with the rest of the car stripped back and etch primed, the engine bay was next.
The radiator support also got stripped back. Did I mention how fun it was?
The lower part of the radiator support has had a hit at some stage, so I'll fix this along the way.
The only rust hole I could find in the radiator support was this little one under the drivers headlight.
I know it looks a bit crusty, and has had a few hits in the rear end, it's a pretty solid car. The floors look good too, and the underneath looks pretty clean. I think I'll keep this one : )
Whoops, a bit fell out!
The lower stepped bolts that held the front on just wouldn't come out, so they ended up getting a tad destroyed. I'm not sure if new ones are available, but if not I'll machine some up. I'll ring Tony at Rare Spares again when the time comes.
There is some pretty ugly surface rust where the engine bay used to sit, but I don't think it's really as bad as it looks.
The engine bay needs a bit more cleaning up before I can prime it, and I think I'll weld some holes up before I prime it too.
So there you go. That's all I did on this one today, but once I get over this yucky flu and the rust repair panels show up it should happen reasonably fast. Then I can keep it : )
#135
GML-31
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Posted 05 April 2011 - 07:56 PM
your a funny man Tim, I think she will be coming home to the coast lol.
#137
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 12:41 PM
Sorry, I may have read this wrong, but did you say you unbolted the whole front of the car?? 
In-ter-esting!
I never knew you could do that.
In-ter-esting!
I never knew you could do that.
#138
_shadowmaster_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 03:26 PM
Tim why the hell would you sit there and strip the entire subframe back with a sander... You should have just gotten the thing Sand blasted.... I know one should never blast panels or anywhere that will warp but a solid subframe would be fine.
#139
_dirtbag_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 03:53 PM
Sorry, I may have read this wrong, but did you say you unbolted the whole front of the car??
In-ter-esting!
I never knew you could do that.
Yeah mate, nuts and bolts and off it comes : )
As for sand blasting the engine bay, I did think about it, but the blasters here charge between $7 and $10 a minute, and was told it would take an hour. Too dear. Plus it's not that hard to do with a sanding disc. I will be getting the front crossmember/suspension/steering blasted and powder coated though.
The rare spares rust repair sections arrived today. Got to love speedy service like that : )
#140
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 05:36 PM
Should be about $500 an hour for blasting, i could do that subframe and front end in about half hour - 45 minutes 
Cheers.
Cheers.
#141
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 05:48 PM
Bottom subframe bolts are are a joy to remove....The bottom legs look nice and clean though.
Im pretty sure Rares do new bolts.
Im pretty sure Rares do new bolts.
#142
_dirtbag_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 05:49 PM
Should be about $500 an hour for blasting, i could do that subframe and front end in about half hour - 45 minutes
Cheers.
I'm sure you could, but let's just say I don't have too much confidence in the operators down on the sunny coast. I was quoted an hour JUST for the front clip, not including the front suspension/crossmember, which is why I did it with the grinder.
#143
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 06:07 PM
Yeah frOck that.
What were they going to do it without air??
What were they going to do it without air??
#144
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 06:19 PM
Yeah frOck that.
What were they going to do it without air??
They were going to use the sans sand method.
#146
fenz
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 07:57 PM
Yeah holy crap that sounds a bit rich!!! Unbolt it if you can and a bit of elbow grease will see it right!
At the end of the day you get to have a look at every thing apart and check out the rust situation really cant be a bad thing in a vehicle that is 40 odd years old.
At the end of the day you get to have a look at every thing apart and check out the rust situation really cant be a bad thing in a vehicle that is 40 odd years old.
#147
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 08:09 PM
Tim, you should ask the owner what he is doing with that lovely Holden 6 and gearbox i see laying off to the side seeing though he's apparently ruining the car by fitting a chebby.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#148
_Ozzie Picker_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 09:55 PM
considering the rest of the car,your very lucky with the front sub frame,they usually are rooted on the lower legs and where they attach to the body,also at the top section to body,finally something is going your way.
keep up the good work,
keep up the good work,
#149
_dirtbag_
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 11:41 PM
Tim, you should ask the owner what he is doing with that lovely Holden 6 and gearbox i see laying off to the side seeing though he's apparently ruining the car by fitting a chebby.
Cheers.
I'll ask him. It's a 186 and glide, so about as exciting as an XD falcon : )
#150
_dirtbag_
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Posted 07 April 2011 - 07:07 PM
Thanks to Dave (S pack) I got onto rare spares and ordered some rust repair panels. They showed up today. Good fast service : )
I got a lower rear beaver panel, and the filler panel between the boot and rear window.
I also got a pair of rear side roof sections. It looks a bit dodgy in the pic, but it's just the primer is scratched. The panel itself seems to fit really well.
I also got a pair of rear quarter front sections.
Again, it looks a tad crusty, but seems to fit on the panel very well. Can't wait to start fitting these pieces.
I was then lucky enough to strip the firewall back to bare metal.
I only stripped it back down to the seam that runs along the bottom of the firewall. Everything below that can get cleaned later and stone guarded.
The surface rust behind where the engine bay mounted doesn't look like a major issue either, which is great news.
I gave it all a good coating of rust converter.
Next fun job was pulling the front end apart so it can get blasted, powder coated and rebuilt.
After a lot of swearing, it looked like this.
It fought the whole way too. It really wanted to stay together. Just the bump stops on there now.
So next job I'll do is finished stripping the front clip and get it and the firewall in etch primer. Then I can start the fun stuff!!!!
I got a lower rear beaver panel, and the filler panel between the boot and rear window.
I also got a pair of rear side roof sections. It looks a bit dodgy in the pic, but it's just the primer is scratched. The panel itself seems to fit really well.
I also got a pair of rear quarter front sections.
Again, it looks a tad crusty, but seems to fit on the panel very well. Can't wait to start fitting these pieces.
I was then lucky enough to strip the firewall back to bare metal.
I only stripped it back down to the seam that runs along the bottom of the firewall. Everything below that can get cleaned later and stone guarded.
The surface rust behind where the engine bay mounted doesn't look like a major issue either, which is great news.
I gave it all a good coating of rust converter.
Next fun job was pulling the front end apart so it can get blasted, powder coated and rebuilt.
After a lot of swearing, it looked like this.
It fought the whole way too. It really wanted to stay together. Just the bump stops on there now.
So next job I'll do is finished stripping the front clip and get it and the firewall in etch primer. Then I can start the fun stuff!!!!
Edited by dirtbag, 07 April 2011 - 07:10 PM.
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