i find waytls wallpapermall gives the best coverage for a top coat too
and comes in a wide range of colours and textures nowdays
how to apply/use prepsol & deoxidine
Started by
_SnotGobbler_
, Jan 01 2011 07:04 PM
43 replies to this topic
#26
_Quagmire_
_Quagmire_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:24 PM
clean roller helps
i find waytls wallpapermall gives the best coverage for a top coat too
and comes in a wide range of colours and textures nowdays
i find waytls wallpapermall gives the best coverage for a top coat too
and comes in a wide range of colours and textures nowdays
#27
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:29 PM
And a choice of gloss semi gloss and satin finishes, interior and exterior!!!
#28
_Quagmire_
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Posted 03 January 2011 - 08:38 PM
he he
in my younger days a mate acually spayed a hk wagon in house paint
come out alright and was way cheaper and easier to get than automotive paint
i mean bunnings was open to 7pm every day
and supa shits wasn't
mind you it did have 10 kgs of bog in it after we got through with it
in my younger days a mate acually spayed a hk wagon in house paint
come out alright and was way cheaper and easier to get than automotive paint
i mean bunnings was open to 7pm every day
and supa shits wasn't
mind you it did have 10 kgs of bog in it after we got through with it
#29
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 06:41 PM
Sadly i know a bloke who brush painted a Moke with house paint....That didnt look so good.
Complete with the ring in the bonnet where he sat the can on the wet paint so he could do another bit
Cheers.
Complete with the ring in the bonnet where he sat the can on the wet paint so he could do another bit
Cheers.
#30
_nzstato_
_nzstato_
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 07:03 PM
Sadly i know a bloke who brush painted a Moke with house paint....That didnt look so good.
Complete with the ring in the bonnet where he sat the can on the wet paint so he could do another bit
Cheers.
Saw a VJ valiant painted in what appeared to be brushed white exterior paint (was when I was last it Melbourne). Looked like s**t, owner looked about as good as the car, though it was outside the Alfred
#31
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:05 AM
was going to make another thread.. but keep it all in one
Can body filler be applied on top of primer or does it need to be put on bare metal?
did a search, but nothing really answered the ques
Can body filler be applied on top of primer or does it need to be put on bare metal?
did a search, but nothing really answered the ques
#32
_TUFF75LH355_
_TUFF75LH355_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:41 AM
i have a question when you talk about applying with a roller..?? do you mean like a house hold paint roller..??
#33
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:05 AM
i have a question when you talk about applying with a roller..?? do you mean like a house hold paint roller..??
yes a household paint roller is what i used. not the large one used for walls/ ceilings, got a small one to get into rolled/curved areas etc of boot lid. prob could use a large one aswell.
bought from mitre10 here in NZ.. prob get from bunnings etc to
only using it for primering.. you can use it for top coat if you wish
#34
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:34 PM
was going to make another thread.. but keep it all in one
Can body filler be applied on top of primer or does it need to be put on bare metal?
did a search, but nothing really answered the ques
yes the new way of thinking says it is a better way of doing it
you still need some roughness but i think it's only 220 odd grit not 36 like i was thought
do us all a favor and fix your compressor
all jokes aside it is not good to roll paint on
as even if it's primer paint is only a covering
and it will come through in your top coat
and what you gain in time with the primer you will lose in sanding
#35
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:12 PM
Yep stick the bog over the primer, sand it with 180-220.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#36
_SnotGobbler_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:14 PM
was going to make another thread.. but keep it all in one
Can body filler be applied on top of primer or does it need to be put on bare metal?
did a search, but nothing really answered the ques
yes the new way of thinking says it is a better way of doing it
you still need some roughness but i think it's only 220 odd grit not 36 like i was thought
do us all a favor and fix your compressor
all jokes aside it is not good to roll paint on
as even if it's primer paint is only a covering
and it will come through in your top coat
and what you gain in time with the primer you will lose in sanding
just for you, i tinkered with the compressor this afternoon.
let the tank fill with air then hit the drain plug a few times while lifting the tank changing angles to help drain water and err, mustve got 50mls of water out of it. then mucked about with water traps as per one of the threads i read earlier today. water trap at tank outlet, 5m of coiled hose to run into bucket of cold water then an inline water trap at the end of that to which is my 20m of hose..
that should put me back in busyness
now back to filler. leads me to.. once the filler is all good n smooth, ready for priming... i lay primer over it or something else first like spray putty, then primer?
whats this sink back ive read about on my time on here, that i cant find when i need it arghhhhh
#37
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:21 PM
Primer over bog.
Sink back is when you sand something to soon and it shrinks after you have finished sanding.
Just follow the directions you will be right.
Cheers.
Sink back is when you sand something to soon and it shrinks after you have finished sanding.
Just follow the directions you will be right.
Cheers.
#38
_Quagmire_
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:26 PM
spray putty is the old way
and needs to be primered first
if you can get hold of some dolfin glaze (sort of like a very fine bog) then that will be good for your finishing coats
but prime before hand and rough to 180-220 grit
sink back occurs for a varity of reasons
mostly not letting the primer/filler dry enough
(overnight should be good enough but a few days is better)
dam bomber beats me again
and needs to be primered first
if you can get hold of some dolfin glaze (sort of like a very fine bog) then that will be good for your finishing coats
but prime before hand and rough to 180-220 grit
sink back occurs for a varity of reasons
mostly not letting the primer/filler dry enough
(overnight should be good enough but a few days is better)
dam bomber beats me again
#39
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:46 PM
Lol.
I should elaborate on the spot putty thing, if your using 2k primers then use a 2k spot putty. Upol Hot Shot is good.
If your using a single pack/acrylic primer then use a single pack spot putty.
Cheers.
I should elaborate on the spot putty thing, if your using 2k primers then use a 2k spot putty. Upol Hot Shot is good.
If your using a single pack/acrylic primer then use a single pack spot putty.
Cheers.
#40
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 04:56 PM
Lol.
I should elaborate on the spot putty thing, if your using 2k primers then use a 2k spot putty. Upol Hot Shot is good.
If your using a single pack/acrylic primer then use a single pack spot putty.
Cheers.
?????
dolfin glaze is 2k
acually bog is 2k
and i haven't had a problem using it under acyrlic yet
tried the single pack snot
and i was not impressed
so what's this "upol hot shot?"
someting i should try bomber?
#41
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:31 PM
Ok never tried Dolphin. Upol Hot shot is just the stuff i use, was just putting it up as an example. Its very good.
Im just a bit hesitant with acrylics, Because acrylics dont dry, they stay soft, whereas 2k's dry hard, im heasitant to use a 2k spot putty over an acrylic primer and under an acrylic top coat, the primer and top coat will want to move around a bit for the first four years or so after you put them on (im not shitting you), but the 2k spot putty wont. 1k spot putty stays soft, but yes, as you have said its less than impressive to use. You NEED to leave it overnight before sanding otherwise sink back WILL occur. And it gums the sand paper up.
Cheers.
Im just a bit hesitant with acrylics, Because acrylics dont dry, they stay soft, whereas 2k's dry hard, im heasitant to use a 2k spot putty over an acrylic primer and under an acrylic top coat, the primer and top coat will want to move around a bit for the first four years or so after you put them on (im not shitting you), but the 2k spot putty wont. 1k spot putty stays soft, but yes, as you have said its less than impressive to use. You NEED to leave it overnight before sanding otherwise sink back WILL occur. And it gums the sand paper up.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 05 January 2011 - 05:32 PM.
#42
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:39 PM
he he
left it a week
and still didn't fill the "chips/blemishes"
and when i rubbed it back it um
sort of dissappeared into nothing and i was left at square one(all part of the learning curve,in the old days i would have spray puttied it!) lol
dolphin glaze don't appear to do that and was recomended by the paint guys anyway
well when this bag runs old/dies of old age
i'll try some upshot
left it a week
and still didn't fill the "chips/blemishes"
and when i rubbed it back it um
sort of dissappeared into nothing and i was left at square one(all part of the learning curve,in the old days i would have spray puttied it!) lol
dolphin glaze don't appear to do that and was recomended by the paint guys anyway
well when this bag runs old/dies of old age
i'll try some upshot
#43
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:45 PM
Yeah thats the other thing with acrylic putties it usually takes like three goes to fill a tiny chip haha.
Its just generally shit.
Cheers.
Its just generally shit.
Cheers.
#44
_hatch black_
_hatch black_
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Posted 31 January 2011 - 07:42 PM
Lay down 1 coat of etch, lay down 1 coat primer filler, then begin sanding. Thats assuming your using a roller.
Cheers.
all good
think im putting down another layer of etch.. i rolled over stuff that was semi dry and lifted bits with the roller leaving speckled areas of bare metal here n there argh lol
ohwell, ill sleep on it
thanks for the advise today
hey,i have been a painter 25 years,so use thi advice if you want,but prepsol panel first,then dilute deoxodene 2 to 3 parts to 1 part water,wipe liberaly with scotch brite wipe off with damp rag then dry rag,make sure you wipe it all off,panel will turn light rusty colour,dont touch panel,etch prime straight away .cheers
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