View GarageYes and no... they're not so bad if you start with one that is well built and in reasonable nick, but you have to stick with standard-ish sized tyres. Wide tyres (e.g. enough to fill out flares) gives them a pretty hard time and don't even think about burnouts and the like, they just aren't designed to handle that.I don't think you will be getting much traction with the standard BW M78 LSD. It probably won't be any better than an open centre after a couple of weeks.
LS1 Conversion
Started by
DanWA
, Jan 04 2011 03:09 PM
66 replies to this topic
#51
Posted 21 July 2011 - 10:24 PM
#52
DanWA
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Posted 22 July 2011 - 01:18 AM
I am very aware of this
#53
WA1TNC
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Posted 27 August 2011 - 09:13 AM
Hey DanWA, what did you do about the steering? Did it all fit past starter motor? My rubber knuckle mount thingy(don't know what it's called) fouls on the starter, I think it's bcos I've moved my engine 20mm forward.
#54
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Posted 27 August 2011 - 04:57 PM
The starter motor was no where near the steering in my brothers car! Not sure how you've ended up with clearance issues there Nig.
#55
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Posted 27 August 2011 - 08:54 PM
Not sure, just lucky I guess, iv got no other option but to go to rare spares mon after work & get another steering knuckle, pipes are getting made sat but the cars got to be ready mid week & on the trailer. Anyone got a spare steering knuckle in Melbourne area? I think the price of them off eBay & rare spares is pretty steep so I'm willing to drive an hrs drive or so to get one.
#56
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 28 August 2011 - 02:12 AM
The starter motor was no where near the steering in my brothers car! Not sure how you've ended up with clearance issues there Nig.
That does seem odd ? Wonder if you are going to end up with odd header clearance issues if the motor is in that different a spot? Might make it easier getting around the column perhaps though. (I know when I built them on mine that did take some doing)
#57
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Posted 28 August 2011 - 09:51 AM
I'll grab a pic for you later, fireplace is broken in the shed at the moment so no way i'm going out there yet haha
My guess is you haven't adjusted the starter around... The MSD 5096 fits in mine fine with custom pipes from fullnoise on these forums. If you read the book and observe the starter you will see the adjustment points you can use. You want it as snug against the block as you can get it.
I did the 2nd steering knuckle conversion which i sourced from rob350hatch. None of the know-alls ever want to explain it so here it goes. You undo the cotter pins from the factory rod. Remove the rubber mount thingy. Place the 2nd steering knuckle over the rod with the original one and determine how much of the rod you need to remove from the bottom half for the 2nd knuckle to move completely without removing the little notch with the cotter pin hole. Cut it off (measure twice cut once). Then mess around a bit to get the knuckles fitting nice and snug and tighten the pins up.
One mistake i made was not watching the steering wheel while i spun the rod, so my steering wheel ended up complete 360.
Here is one pic i do have of a nice test fit in the air. The starter is well covered by the pipes. It would be pipe>steering you might get clearance issues.
My guess is you haven't adjusted the starter around... The MSD 5096 fits in mine fine with custom pipes from fullnoise on these forums. If you read the book and observe the starter you will see the adjustment points you can use. You want it as snug against the block as you can get it.
I did the 2nd steering knuckle conversion which i sourced from rob350hatch. None of the know-alls ever want to explain it so here it goes. You undo the cotter pins from the factory rod. Remove the rubber mount thingy. Place the 2nd steering knuckle over the rod with the original one and determine how much of the rod you need to remove from the bottom half for the 2nd knuckle to move completely without removing the little notch with the cotter pin hole. Cut it off (measure twice cut once). Then mess around a bit to get the knuckles fitting nice and snug and tighten the pins up.
One mistake i made was not watching the steering wheel while i spun the rod, so my steering wheel ended up complete 360.
Here is one pic i do have of a nice test fit in the air. The starter is well covered by the pipes. It would be pipe>steering you might get clearance issues.
Edited by DanWA, 28 August 2011 - 09:52 AM.
#58
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 28 August 2011 - 11:23 AM
I just use the factory starter and it clears fine...
Some old pictures when I was first mocking things up...everything is painted and detailed alot more now
(had already made the engine mounts though)
(Dan...you can see that foil tape stuff I used around the wires I mentioned in my thread too, lol..)
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Some old pictures when I was first mocking things up...everything is painted and detailed alot more now
(had already made the engine mounts though)(Dan...you can see that foil tape stuff I used around the wires I mentioned in my thread too, lol..)
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#59
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Posted 04 September 2011 - 10:36 PM
Yeah I knew how to remove them, it's pretty straight forward. Got it all sorted now, I used a procomp gear reduction starter which I think has a longer body than the msd. The car was getting the pipes made this wkend so should be close to being finished by now. They ended up fitting 4into1's with 1 3/4" primaries so should be good. Prob just gonna get them heat wrapped I think. I'll take a pic of them when I get the car back mid week.
Yeah I knew how to remove them, it's pretty straight forward. Got it all sorted now, I used a procomp gear reduction starter which I think has a longer body than the msd. The car was getting the pipes made this wkend so should be close to being finished by now. They ended up fitting 4into1's with 1 3/4" primaries so should be good. Prob just gonna get them heat wrapped I think. I'll take a pic of them when I get the car back mid week.
Yeah I knew how to remove them, it's pretty straight forward. Got it all sorted now, I used a procomp gear reduction starter which I think has a longer body than the msd. The car was getting the pipes made this wkend so should be close to being finished by now. They ended up fitting 4into1's with 1 3/4" primaries so should be good. Prob just gonna get them heat wrapped I think. I'll take a pic of them when I get the car back mid week.
#60
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 01:28 AM
I wrapped mine as well after making them....just wear gloves when working with the heat wrap...saves getting the little fibers stuck in ya..(or the coating on them that takes a while to wear off as well)
After I wrapped mine I also sprayed them with the paint/sealant stuff the same company makes..
You can sorta see them in this picture (just one I had handy)
After I wrapped mine I also sprayed them with the paint/sealant stuff the same company makes..
You can sorta see them in this picture (just one I had handy)
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#61
_LXSS350_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 01:33 AM
Why not modify the bell to a LH starter? Surly makes it far easier for getting the right tune on your extractors. Also triming back your lwr steering column (while upgrading and putting in a 6205-ZZ-1 lwr bearing) gives you an easier path for the exhaust.
Edited by LXSS350, 05 September 2011 - 01:34 AM.
#62
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 01:43 AM
I also shortened my column too...before I even knew about this board or that people had done it before, ha ha... Just seemed like the natural/easy way to gain a little extra header room when making them.
Oh, and the oil filter lines come off the other side of the block, so not sure about trying to move the starter over there somehow?
Oh, and the oil filter lines come off the other side of the block, so not sure about trying to move the starter over there somehow?
#63
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 03:46 AM
Have not done an LS into a Torana and forgot about that. Yes the steering mods are well worth doing as room is at a min in any Torana with a V8. You certainly have done an excellent job on your conversion. No doubt one of the hatches will get an LS engine at some stage of the chaos.
#64
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 10:53 AM
CRS have a kit to swap the start to the left have side. It is commonly used in early Commodore conversions.
Manual
http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/ap/ap130.htm
Auto
http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/ap/ap130.htm
Manual
http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/ap/ap130.htm
Auto
http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/ap/ap130.htm
#65
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:55 PM
Any under shots (photos) around of LH starter in LS conversion in the car. I am surprised people are not running dry sumps as that's what I will be looking at when I do an LS powered hatch.
#66
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 09:13 PM
The cost and complexity of a dry sump can not be justified for the majority of track Toranas. I have only seen one off the shelf LSX dry sump that will clear the Torana cross member.
Pictures from Commodore forum will give you the basic idea. Personally I do not like the idea of having a spacer between the flywheel and crank.
Pictures from Commodore forum will give you the basic idea. Personally I do not like the idea of having a spacer between the flywheel and crank.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 05 September 2011 - 09:15 PM.
#67
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 09:54 PM
Thanks for that it helps by reminding me about the left side setup. Its early stages in the LS plan as the yellow hatch with the small block and carby is first cab off the rank. The LS we will order comes std with a dry sump so we will just have to work out how to modify it to suit. Never been a wet sump fan myself but with the old holden V8 it just wasn't viable over doing a priority oiling modification and having a good windage and sump design.
Edited by LXSS350, 05 September 2011 - 09:56 PM.
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