I would be contacting hoppers before you modify any thing, you may be missing some thing, it could be made like this for a reason.
Better save than sorry and find by making the spacers smaller it causes other issues
Hopper Stoppers Brakes
Started by
_76S.L.R_
, Jan 06 2011 09:38 AM
81 replies to this topic
#52
AbsynthHatch
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Posted 26 March 2011 - 09:49 PM
Mate I would be calling Hoppers first thing on Monday
For the amount of money they charge for their kit, it should bolt up without any drama's, let alone having to modify any of the supplied kit
Chances are they may have supplied an incorrect mounting parts or spacers, unfortunately not the first time I have heard someone say they have had problems installing a Hoppers kit
For the amount of money they charge for their kit, it should bolt up without any drama's, let alone having to modify any of the supplied kit
Chances are they may have supplied an incorrect mounting parts or spacers, unfortunately not the first time I have heard someone say they have had problems installing a Hoppers kit
#53
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 26 March 2011 - 10:32 PM
I have an article in a Magazine about hopper stoppers kits,they sent it to me with the kit and it says sometimes those spacers have to be reduced or increased due to slight Stub Axle Changes?.
It says the same thing here too , STEP 10 ( http://www.hoppers.c...oranabrakes.pdf I'll have to find out the EXACT Spacer dimensions I need by taking measurements to get the Rotor central then either get mine altered or get hoppers to send some the correct thickness for my car,bit anoying but from the sounds of it not an etirely uncommon thing?............
It says the same thing here too , STEP 10 ( http://www.hoppers.c...oranabrakes.pdf I'll have to find out the EXACT Spacer dimensions I need by taking measurements to get the Rotor central then either get mine altered or get hoppers to send some the correct thickness for my car,bit anoying but from the sounds of it not an etirely uncommon thing?............
Edited by 76S.L.R, 26 March 2011 - 10:34 PM.
#54
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 26 March 2011 - 11:18 PM
I have the same kit. Post up photos and measurements and I will see which bit is wrong.
Alternatively if you want to bring the kit to Willetton or Tomato lake tomorrow morning we can compare them side by side.
edit
I just remembered that my kit has the commodore offset so it may not be the same.
Alternatively if you want to bring the kit to Willetton or Tomato lake tomorrow morning we can compare them side by side.
edit
I just remembered that my kit has the commodore offset so it may not be the same.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 March 2011 - 11:21 PM.
#55
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 March 2011 - 09:03 PM
Ive just mailed Hoppers ,I need spacers that are 2mm thinner than the ones I have so hope they can send me some over? then I still have the headache of what wheels will fit over the Calipers!?....
#56
StephenSLR
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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:18 AM
What I'm pissed off about is I notice surface rust is appearing on the bolts that attach the adapter plate.
Although not an issue with Hopper's, I'm also getting surface rust on my rear rotors, the section that isn't machined.
:(
You'd think a non ferrous alloy would be used for such parts.
s
Although not an issue with Hopper's, I'm also getting surface rust on my rear rotors, the section that isn't machined.
:(
You'd think a non ferrous alloy would be used for such parts.
s
#57
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:48 PM
Heres some pics of how close the Rotors were to Caliper brackets.......Hoppers sent out new spacers and some shims straight away = now sits where it should,though the smaller SPACERS sent had no cut outs on them to clear the top edge of the Stub Axles so I had to grind a little off so the spacers would fit, only the Top Spacers were problematic though ,bottom ones dont need the cut outs. The first set of spacers I was given had the cut out on them,second set were just fully cylindrical
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
Edited by 76S.L.R, 01 April 2011 - 09:52 PM.
#58
DanWA
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Posted 06 April 2011 - 11:07 PM
Did not have this problem going the commodore Hoppers route!
#59
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 07 April 2011 - 12:00 AM
It was just my terrible bad luck( allways have had!) for the majority of guys this is indeed a straight bolt on job but with regards to mine,from what ive read and seen= some Torana Stub axles differ in Thickness slightly thus causing this problem,its an easy fix anyways as you just get smaller spacers...Did not have this problem going the commodore Hoppers route!
#60
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Posted 07 April 2011 - 07:11 AM
Torana Stub axles differ in Thickness slightly thus causing this problem,its an easy fix anyways as you just get smaller spacers...
I've heard some stub axles need grinding for the adapter to fit on flush.
s
#61
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 07 April 2011 - 09:36 PM
In that regard mine fitted perfectly!, though the problem area on some Stub Axles is on the back of the where the Adaptor Plates bolt on = theres a Mold mark that is raised slightly and can interfere with the adaptor plate bolting on flush.
Torana Stub axles differ in Thickness slightly thus causing this problem,its an easy fix anyways as you just get smaller spacers...
I've heard some stub axles need grinding for the adapter to fit on flush.
s
Ive still not finished putting my hoppers kit on!, due to lack of time plus not 100% sure I have the Float set right on the Rotor Nuts,I just do these up until they start to slow down when turned then back it off half a turn or so = yes???.
Plus I need the correct 3/8" brake Spanner to get the old brake lines off,they dont wana come off..
#62
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 01:06 AM
just don't buy the cheapies from supa crap 
you can make your own by grinding a hole in a 3/8 ring spanner
you can make your own by grinding a hole in a 3/8 ring spanner
#63
_nemo355v8_
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Posted 11 April 2011 - 09:05 PM
Do the nut up until the rotor is stiff to turn to seat the bearings then back the nut off until the rotor turns freely but has no slopIn that regard mine fitted perfectly!, though the problem area on some Stub Axles is on the back of the where the Adaptor Plates bolt on = theres a Mold mark that is raised slightly and can interfere with the adaptor plate bolting on flush.
Torana Stub axles differ in Thickness slightly thus causing this problem,its an easy fix anyways as you just get smaller spacers...
I've heard some stub axles need grinding for the adapter to fit on flush.
s
Ive still not finished putting my hoppers kit on!, due to lack of time plus not 100% sure I have the Float set right on the Rotor Nuts,I just do these up until they start to slow down when turned then back it off half a turn or so = yes???.
Plus I need the correct 3/8" brake Spanner to get the old brake lines off,they dont wana come off..
#64
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 25 April 2011 - 11:32 PM
Next Question,whats to stop the brake line getting crushed between the caliper and that section where the top of your coil springs sit?,I mean if the brake line moves off of the caliper it will get squashed=
Sitting up in the caliper body like so its fine
but if it moves down,even though cable tied to stub axle it could still move to the outside of caliper like so and get squashed!
more pics
The only thing I can think of is to install another cable tie on the brake line to just under where the nut for the "caliper slides" are to stop the cable falling off the caliper body?,though ive never seen this mentioned anywhere or have I routed the hoses wrong??....
Sitting up in the caliper body like so its fine
but if it moves down,even though cable tied to stub axle it could still move to the outside of caliper like so and get squashed!
more pics
The only thing I can think of is to install another cable tie on the brake line to just under where the nut for the "caliper slides" are to stop the cable falling off the caliper body?,though ive never seen this mentioned anywhere or have I routed the hoses wrong??....
Edited by 76S.L.R, 25 April 2011 - 11:40 PM.
#65
dattoman
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Posted 25 April 2011 - 11:39 PM
Put it up over the top of the balljoint
#66
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 25 April 2011 - 11:45 PM
I was going to but then looked at my Hoppers Instructions and on here http://www.hoppers.c...ranabrakes.pdf( step 13) both saying to run it under the stub like I have done?....Put it up over the top of the balljoint
#67
dattoman
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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:55 AM
Was just a suggestion
Put them where they fit best
Put them where they fit best
#68
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:19 AM
On your hose....I had a similar issues when I made my brake setup...
I ended up just making some little metal clips to hold the hose near the ball joint bolt. Seemed to do the job well. As well, before bolting it in for the last time, I dipped the end of it (that goes around the hose) in some rubber coating to help it from rubbing through the hose at all...
I ended up just making some little metal clips to hold the hose near the ball joint bolt. Seemed to do the job well. As well, before bolting it in for the last time, I dipped the end of it (that goes around the hose) in some rubber coating to help it from rubbing through the hose at all...
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#69
StephenSLR
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Posted 26 April 2011 - 07:24 AM
I was going to but then looked at my Hoppers Instructions and on here http://www.hoppers.c...oranabrakes.pdf (step 13) both saying to run it under the stub like I have done?....
Step 13 does say, the brake hose has to be secured at the top of the stub axle but the pic for some reason shows it underneath.
s
Edited by StephenSLR, 26 April 2011 - 07:25 AM.
#70
View GaragePosted 26 April 2011 - 08:20 AM
Definitely under the ball joint but as high up as you can get it - I initially had mine wrapped in another piece of hose so I could tie it hard against the nut and cotter pin without damaging it. LS1 Hatch's solution looks OK as long as it allows the ball joint to be properly tightened.
I've since re-routed the hard lines and the caliper hose connects at the rear of the wheel well using a bracket on the side of the chassis rail.
I've since re-routed the hard lines and the caliper hose connects at the rear of the wheel well using a bracket on the side of the chassis rail.
#71
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 26 April 2011 - 09:52 AM
Yes, they are tightened up properly and the cotter pins are in as well. (pictures as I was making it up and nothing was tight at the time)
Mine is with Brembo 4 piston calipers, home made brackets and 360mm Mercedes rotors.
Mine is with Brembo 4 piston calipers, home made brackets and 360mm Mercedes rotors.
#72
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 09:20 PM
ALRIGHT!!!!!,Im back on the road 
Hoppers Kit and wheels all fitted,elect prob sorted too= the brakes are certainly a big improvement but yet still slightly spongey?.
The brakes are definately bled up right and rear shoes adjusted correctly,there was mention previously on here of guys upgrading the Master Cylinder when running the Hoppers Brakes but I cant find that info,what was the Master cylinder that can be used to improve pedal feel??...
Hoppers Kit and wheels all fitted,elect prob sorted too= the brakes are certainly a big improvement but yet still slightly spongey?.The brakes are definately bled up right and rear shoes adjusted correctly,there was mention previously on here of guys upgrading the Master Cylinder when running the Hoppers Brakes but I cant find that info,what was the Master cylinder that can be used to improve pedal feel??...
#73
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 09:43 PM
A 1" M/C will improve pedal feel. On their website it lists a 1.25" M/C that is a bolt on fitment.
Just make sure when you bleed the brakes that you see NEW brake fluid coming out of all 4 bleeder nipples.
Just make sure when you bleed the brakes that you see NEW brake fluid coming out of all 4 bleeder nipples.
#74
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 09:48 PM
My current one is the usual 1" Torana Master,its probably only 2 years old?, yes new fluid came out of ALL the bleeder nipples as we used clear tubing/bottle when bleeding them all.A 1" M/C will improve pedal feel. On their website it lists a 1.25" M/C that is a bolt on fitment.
Just make sure when you bleed the brakes that you see NEW brake fluid coming out of all 4 bleeder nipples.
I definately want to upgrade that Master Cylinder at some point but was unsure of what Part no/model to ask for
#75
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Posted 17 September 2011 - 09:58 PM
It's actually 1.125" M/C.
From Hoppers site:
One way around the disc verses drum pedal box question is to go to a 1.125 bore master cylinder. And where will I get one of these, you ask?
Well it happens that 68 to 82 Corvette master cylinders are a bolt on, same fittings and all, and they don�t have to cost any more than a new HQ to HZ one. How�s that?
From Hoppers site:
One way around the disc verses drum pedal box question is to go to a 1.125 bore master cylinder. And where will I get one of these, you ask?
Well it happens that 68 to 82 Corvette master cylinders are a bolt on, same fittings and all, and they don�t have to cost any more than a new HQ to HZ one. How�s that?
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