Hi Tim
enjoying your efforts as always, I have a question for you, not a criticism because I know better then to criticise an unfinished project.
when I look and the Kombi I see the bog box cab at the front and then a big heavy engine bit bit at the back joined by two bits of 'C' section. This looks to my untrained eye to have no structural strenght and would bend and twist easily. ( I have been watching American Hotrod)
Are you planning to box the chassis rails
add diagonals
add addition rails parallel to the current ones
regards
the big C
SINGLE CAB KOMBI UTE V8 BUILDUP
Started by
_dirtbag_
, Feb 02 2011 10:00 AM
225 replies to this topic
#102
_dirtbag_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 10:05 AM
G'day Michael. I haven't chatted to you for ages!
Good questions. The simple answer is, cars that flex in the middle are more comfortable : ) hahahaha
OK, seriously, the chassis is actually a box, it's just that the inner wall isn't in line with the edge of the rail. Having said that, there is also another set of rails to go in that I've removed. The normally run along the underside of the tray, but with everything on this car being so knackered, I just removed the lot. I'll replace them with some more of the thick wall 50x75 RHS.
You can see where the old rail was in this next pic. You can also see that the chassis is a box section in this pic too.
In this next pic, the square bit sticking out where the orange paint is in the foreground is where the top rails join in at the back. There will also be a few pieces of box section joining the two sets of rails together.
So when are you coming down this way again? You'll have to check out the new place : )
Good questions. The simple answer is, cars that flex in the middle are more comfortable : ) hahahaha
OK, seriously, the chassis is actually a box, it's just that the inner wall isn't in line with the edge of the rail. Having said that, there is also another set of rails to go in that I've removed. The normally run along the underside of the tray, but with everything on this car being so knackered, I just removed the lot. I'll replace them with some more of the thick wall 50x75 RHS.
You can see where the old rail was in this next pic. You can also see that the chassis is a box section in this pic too.
In this next pic, the square bit sticking out where the orange paint is in the foreground is where the top rails join in at the back. There will also be a few pieces of box section joining the two sets of rails together.
So when are you coming down this way again? You'll have to check out the new place : )
#103
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 10:10 AM
I was under the impression that the "floor" sides and "tray bottom" formed a monocoque type construction???
#104
_dirtbag_
_dirtbag_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 01:17 PM
^^^ they do, so together with the 2 sets of rails they're actually quite solid. Explains why it took me 2 days just to cut this one to bits!!!! Everything is welded together, no nuts and bolts : (
Edited by dirtbag, 23 June 2011 - 01:18 PM.
#105
Stinga
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 01:30 PM
Hey, get back to work tim!
whats that thing between the chassis rails in the above pic, just behind the cab, kind of looks like a muffler?
whats that thing between the chassis rails in the above pic, just behind the cab, kind of looks like a muffler?
#106
_cruiza_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 02:51 PM
I think that is where the gearbox linkages run in a tube
and thanks for the answer Tim
TC and enjoy the new house
and thanks for the answer Tim
TC and enjoy the new house
#107
_dirtbag_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 05:53 PM
Hey, get back to work tim!
whats that thing between the chassis rails in the above pic, just behind the cab, kind of looks like a muffler?
Hi Stinga. That muffler looking thing is part of the heater tube system. It used to run from the engine bay to the cabin, and use the hot engine bay air as a heater, seeing as there's no water : )
This next pic shows it coming up the front of the floor and into the vent system that lives behind the dash. All of it is gone now hehehe.
#108
_dirtbag_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 07:53 PM
Well today I couldn't help myself. I wasn't going to do any more on the ute this week but all this talk of the top rails made me want to fit them. So I did : )
I cut a recess into the existing front rails for the new piece to slot in to. It will make for a longer join weld, meaning it will be stronger.
The new rails I'm fitting are slightly wider than the originals, so I spread the existing rear rails so the new piece could go inside.
Then I welded them in.
I also joined the tops of the wheel tubs into the new rails to help tie it all together.
It still looks like a throw away heap, but it's feeling really solid now. Can't wait to do more!
I cut a recess into the existing front rails for the new piece to slot in to. It will make for a longer join weld, meaning it will be stronger.
The new rails I'm fitting are slightly wider than the originals, so I spread the existing rear rails so the new piece could go inside.
Then I welded them in.
I also joined the tops of the wheel tubs into the new rails to help tie it all together.
It still looks like a throw away heap, but it's feeling really solid now. Can't wait to do more!
#109
_Viper_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:25 PM
Haha no duu duu I was going to make a thread today on whats the Strongest way to weld 2 RHS sections together.... Either as a T or straight on end to end..
More on topic, looks great now... much more solid
More on topic, looks great now... much more solid
#110
_jabba_
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Posted 23 June 2011 - 08:38 PM
Thats going to be one big radiator to fill that gap 
. Seems like so much waisted space under there just for a radiator, maybe you could pimp its ride and install a spa or a swimming pool in the gap then have the tray retract to do a big reveal.
. Seems like so much waisted space under there just for a radiator, maybe you could pimp its ride and install a spa or a swimming pool in the gap then have the tray retract to do a big reveal.
#111
_dirtbag_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 05:40 PM
I did a bit more on the old beast today.
First job was to put the centre section in the front crossmember.
I want it to wrap around the chassis so Imade a cardboard template and marked it onto the RHS.
It fits great. Holds itself in nicely even before being welded.
I then made and welded on the outriggers. The originals were just folded top hat sections, but I'm happier using the RHS for these. You can also see the centre part of the front crossmember in these next pics. Just so you know : )
I try to get the welds as good as possible when doing structural work. I think they turned out OK for a dirtbag.
After than I made the rear crossmember. Again, the original was just folded 1mm, so this will be a lot stronger.
I then made up some lower radiator mounts. They're just 50x3mm flat bar, but will do the job here no worries as I've made a gusset to go underneath. I'll bore the mounting holes out properly when I get the rubbers for the radiator to sit in.
The radiator is from an LS1 powered commodore. This is a cheapie second hand one I bought to use as a mock up. I ran out of day so haven't made any top mounts yet.
It's hopefully not too far away from being sheeted in now. Can't wait to get to that bit!
First job was to put the centre section in the front crossmember.
I want it to wrap around the chassis so Imade a cardboard template and marked it onto the RHS.
It fits great. Holds itself in nicely even before being welded.
I then made and welded on the outriggers. The originals were just folded top hat sections, but I'm happier using the RHS for these. You can also see the centre part of the front crossmember in these next pics. Just so you know : )
I try to get the welds as good as possible when doing structural work. I think they turned out OK for a dirtbag.
After than I made the rear crossmember. Again, the original was just folded 1mm, so this will be a lot stronger.
I then made up some lower radiator mounts. They're just 50x3mm flat bar, but will do the job here no worries as I've made a gusset to go underneath. I'll bore the mounting holes out properly when I get the rubbers for the radiator to sit in.
The radiator is from an LS1 powered commodore. This is a cheapie second hand one I bought to use as a mock up. I ran out of day so haven't made any top mounts yet.
It's hopefully not too far away from being sheeted in now. Can't wait to get to that bit!
Edited by dirtbag, 27 June 2011 - 05:48 PM.
#112
Potta
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 06:04 PM
Starting to look a bit more solid now Tim.
I was worried that the chassis looked a bit flimsy, but now I get it.
I guess we're used to our torries with a body plonked on top of the rails.
This is gonna be awesome when its done!
I was worried that the chassis looked a bit flimsy, but now I get it.
I guess we're used to our torries with a body plonked on top of the rails.
This is gonna be awesome when its done!
#113
_nzstato_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 07:02 PM
Looking great Tim, body should now be able to handle the power!
Whats the legislation regarding welding structural frame like? They're not picky about you doing it with a mig?
Whats the legislation regarding welding structural frame like? They're not picky about you doing it with a mig?
#114
_dirtbag_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:23 PM
No there's no drama welding chassis and so forth with a mig.
Aren't you allowed to over there?
Aren't you allowed to over there?
#115
_mick74lh_
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 09:40 PM
Its starting to take shape. Its beyond me how you weld so neatly.
That original heater system sounds like it would fill the cab with carbon monoxide in the event of an exhaust leak.
That original heater system sounds like it would fill the cab with carbon monoxide in the event of an exhaust leak.
#116
rodomo
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Posted 27 June 2011 - 10:12 PM
[quote name='mick74lh' timestamp='1309174833' post='602925']
That original heater system sounds like it would fill the cab with carbon monoxide in the event of an exhaust leak.
[/quote]
Correct! And also the cause of many early Beetle fires. Early Beetles had like an underfelt stuck to the (rear) firewall that used to ignite.
[quote name='mick74lh' timestamp='1309174833' post='602925']
That original heater system sounds like it would fill the cab with carbon monoxide in the event of an exhaust leak.
[/quote]
Correct! And also the cause of many early Beetle fires. Early Beetles had like an underfelt stuck to the (rear) firewall that used to ignite.
[quote name='mick74lh' timestamp='1309174833' post='602925']
Edited by rodomo, 27 June 2011 - 10:14 PM.
#117
_nzstato_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 05:41 AM
No there's no drama welding chassis and so forth with a mig.
Aren't you allowed to over there?
Nah there aren't any dramas over here with it, just know alot of older guys who swear by welding with a stick when doing chassis work.
Over here if you want to do structurial welding you must first do a mini-certification. Just means you go to a NZHRA approved engineer and weld a T join in front of them, they chuck it in a vice and hit it with a hammer to see if it breaks. Steering and suspension components (scratch built) are the only things we aren't allowed to weld at home.
Welding
#118
_Viper_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 09:47 AM
go to a NZHRA approved engineer and weld a T join in front of them, they chuck it in a vice and hit it with a hammer to see if it breaks
Haha very technical test that one... Shouldnt they be X-rayin it?
#119
_dirtbag_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:22 PM
I did a little bit more today.
I started making the chamber for the radiator.
Each side is also the new inner sill. It seemed better to do each side in one piece, even though it was a bit of a pain.
I used 1.6mm zinc, so it's strong enough to not need any swages. Plus there is more framework to go in yet.
This new inner sill is 3 inches lower than the originals. Should give the sides a fatter look.
Lots of welding to get done in here. I'll fully weld around where the ends of the RHS meets the inner sill, and plug weld the rest of it from above.
Here's the other side made and sitting in place. You can see there is heaps of contact areas between the frame and new sheetmetal so I can weld the living daylights out of it. This thing will be SOLID!
There will be no floor in the centre, for obvious reasons : )
The areas created on each side of this chamber will be used too. Not sure whether both sides will have fuel or gas tanks, or one side fuel or gas and the other side just for general storage. The timber tray will have trap doors in it to gain access to the radiator chamber, the side pockets and the engine bay. Should work well.
I started making the chamber for the radiator.
Each side is also the new inner sill. It seemed better to do each side in one piece, even though it was a bit of a pain.
I used 1.6mm zinc, so it's strong enough to not need any swages. Plus there is more framework to go in yet.
This new inner sill is 3 inches lower than the originals. Should give the sides a fatter look.
Lots of welding to get done in here. I'll fully weld around where the ends of the RHS meets the inner sill, and plug weld the rest of it from above.
Here's the other side made and sitting in place. You can see there is heaps of contact areas between the frame and new sheetmetal so I can weld the living daylights out of it. This thing will be SOLID!
There will be no floor in the centre, for obvious reasons : )
The areas created on each side of this chamber will be used too. Not sure whether both sides will have fuel or gas tanks, or one side fuel or gas and the other side just for general storage. The timber tray will have trap doors in it to gain access to the radiator chamber, the side pockets and the engine bay. Should work well.
#120
_cruiza_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:47 PM
That looks a lot more solid now, as for the welding I can do the same using bog, once painted you would never know the difference 
#121
Stinga
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:50 PM
looking good Tim, is there going to be a grill or something protecting the radiator?
#122
_dirtbag_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 06:58 PM
Cruiza, you're a classic : )
Stinga, yes there will be stainless mesh as a floor, like crimsafe, on top of the chassis rails. Should do the trick. It's not going to be a daily driver, but it has to be somewhat useable I think.
It's certainly a lot of fun building it : )
Stinga, yes there will be stainless mesh as a floor, like crimsafe, on top of the chassis rails. Should do the trick. It's not going to be a daily driver, but it has to be somewhat useable I think.
It's certainly a lot of fun building it : )
Edited by dirtbag, 28 June 2011 - 06:59 PM.
#123
_Lamo_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 07:28 PM
Are you planning on making a fibre glass shroud to direct the air more upwardly fowards the radiator?
#124
_wblje_
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 07:32 PM
loving this build db. its gunna be something differet for sure.
#125
fenz
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Posted 28 June 2011 - 09:19 PM
Should be nice and stiff when you finish welding it Tim.
Is the owner using a cast iron chev or something newer????
Is the owner using a cast iron chev or something newer????
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