Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

Wanted engine buddy, for building 6's as sound check

Started by _Agent 34_ , Feb 03 2011 09:14 AM

Please log in to reply

15 replies to this topic

#1 _Agent 34_

Guests

Posted 03 February 2011 - 09:14 AM

Hi Guys,

Ive got a Peninsula Engine Service doing the re sleaving of the original block at the moment and also the other measurements for the crank, head and bits and pieces. As being a newby at engine building, Im putting it out there for a sound check with things that i need to make sure happen and also to be able to ring a person up and ask stupid questions and double check my discussions with peninsula. Both the father and son have been great to deal with and I feel comfortable with them and their guidance, but there are things that should be done at this stage and I don't want to miss.

to give you a back ground the engine was in pieces and to date all things are still progressing Ok with no major matters apart from the need to re sleave. it's got a yella terra head and im going to measure the valves to try to understand at what stage it's at.

Im not going to assemble the engine and have discussed this with them, it seemed better to use one person as I have about 6 months to do. OR if some 6 guru wants to help me then I would love to put this thing together with that person and obviously pay for their time in beer or money.

At the moment we are talking con rods and pistons as the next step. But have not made any selection on either.

The questions that I have at the moment are;
relieving the block - what does this mean ?
what are PBR bolts ( think) that's them
harmonic balancer - romtech ( think that it's )
do I need to do anything with the oil wells
can i just use the old oil pump - do i need to reco
Dizzy choice - standard - electric and the other thingy that Fast EH wrote about in a thread

So if anyone can help me with some phone calls then can you pm me your no and then i can call when need that would be great.

Im mechanical minded but have never reconditioned a car motor.

Ive read " how to build a hot six " and will be reading it again.
Im off to the NSW gtr xu1 monthly meeting this month so if you are going and can help then I will hopefully talk to you there.

thanks for any help in advance Grant.

Back to top

#2 Heath

I like cars.

Administrators
18,380 posts

Name:Heath
Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
Joined: 07-November 05

View Garage

Posted 03 February 2011 - 04:40 PM

I think you mean ARP bolts, PBR make brake parts. In a rush so can't give you a proper response about other stuff lol

Back to top

#3 _Agent 34_

Guests

Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:15 PM

See Newby !

Back to top

#4 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:43 PM

Quickly....

relieving the block - what does this mean ? Guessing it means resleave, as you have said they are already doing that. Not sure why they are doing that, unless its a rare motor and at .060"

what are PBR bolts ( think) that's them As Heath said that will be ARP bolts, best name in the business

harmonic balancer - romtech ( think that it's ) Romac. Again about the best in the business

do I need to do anything with the oil wells Depends on a lot of factors, mostly how high your going to rev the motor

can i just use the old oil pump - do i need to reco Can use the old one after its rebuilt, but JP pumps are fairly cheap and all brand new

Dizzy choice - standard - electric and the other thingy that Fast EH wrote about in a thread Again depends on what you want to do. Points are good, im not a fan of the stock electric ones, Theres a few good aftermaket options

Cheers.

Back to top

#5 _TorYoda_

Guests

Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:59 PM

Relieving the block means grinding a shallow scallop at the top edge of the cylinder where the valve and combustion chamber overlap the edge of the cylinder. This is shown by the shape of the head gasket where it is not round to suit the cylinder diameter. Use the head gasket as a template and scribe a line on the block surface. Using a file or die grinder create a tapered section by removing this metal. About 60 degrees is ideal. Do not grind further down the actual cylinder than about 8mm or you will grind into the ring sealing area.

This relieving enhances flow around the outer third of the valve as it opens and can significantly improve flow resulting in more torque and HP. The intake side is more beneficial then the exhaust but I always do both for all the gain I can get.

Romac are now owned by another company and although still good quality it is not as high as it was when owned by the founder.

I have had great results with the generic Commodore electronic dissy. They produce a stronger spark than points (especially at higher rpm) and are very reliable but must be paired with the correct coil and a consistent 12 volt power supply.

If you are building a fresh engine a new oil pump is wise insurance for the minimal extra cost. Like Bomber says JP offer a good replacement product for the price. Oil passage mod's are not really necessary with a good pump unless you plan to chase greater than 7000 RPM for sustained periods as in racing.

ARP Fasteners are as good as it gets!

Edited by TorYoda, 03 February 2011 - 06:03 PM.

Back to top

#6 Heath

I like cars.

Administrators
18,380 posts

Name:Heath
Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
Joined: 07-November 05

View Garage

Posted 03 February 2011 - 10:31 PM

They are pretty good responses. Ask more questions if you want and there won't be a problem getting them answered.

Back to top

#7 _Agent 34_

Guests

Posted 05 February 2011 - 06:48 AM

thanks for the Help guys;

do ARP bolts come in a holden six pack and what's the cost ? How do i arrange the purchase of these and how do I know sizes ?

Roller rockers -

Its running a yella terra head and we are going to measure the valves in order to check what sizes they are and then compare to the Xu1 72 spec out of Fiv's book.

The posts are pinned and it's running conventional rockers. Can someone either convince me or not convince me as to change the standard rocker arms to roller rockers and is there a cost.

With this is there any modification to the existing pinned posts that are already in the head ?

Its' a 186 head

Back to top

#8 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,691 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 05 February 2011 - 04:11 PM

thanks for the Help guys;

do ARP bolts come in a holden six pack and what's the cost ? How do i arrange the purchase of these and how do I know sizes ?

Roller rockers -

Its running a yella terra head and we are going to measure the valves in order to check what sizes they are and then compare to the Xu1 72 spec out of Fiv's book.

The posts are pinned and it's running conventional rockers. Can someone either convince me or not convince me as to change the standard rocker arms to roller rockers and is there a cost.

With this is there any modification to the existing pinned posts that are already in the head ?

Its' a 186 head

G/day Grant

Go the roller rockers, less friction, less wear and tear esp side load on the valve guides. Supposedly there are small power gains to be made also.
Yella Terra make roller rockers that are a direct swap for the original rockers (no mods required), Pt No.YT5007 suit 138 to 186 red 6. The main cost will be for the set of roller rockers, you might also need a taller rocker cover to clear the rockers or pack your cover up with two gaskets glued together and longer rocker cover bolts.

I fitted the YT5007's to my 202 XU1 head and am very pleased with them. The only thing I had to do with the original rocker cover was to adjust the PCV valve baffle above the push rod end of the rocker with a small hammer to obtain enough clearance.

Cheers
Dave

Back to top

#9 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 05 February 2011 - 04:23 PM

You woint be able to use proper stud mount roller rockers with your heads, as it has pinned rocker studs.

to fit the good roller rockers you need to remove the rocker studs, and tap a thread for screw in studs.

doing this with your pinned ones may cause the casting to crack around the pin holes.

You could use bolt on roller rockers, the YT5007's mentioned above, but there fairly crap. Probably a bit better than Standard though.

They will fit your head. Wont fit 173 or 202 heads.

You can purchase ARP bolts locally.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 05 February 2011 - 04:24 PM.

Back to top

#10 wot179

Green Eggs and Spam

Members
6,784 posts

Name:Jesus Bloody Christ
Location:Sunny Santa Maria
Car:Goon
Joined: 06-February 09

Posted 05 February 2011 - 05:19 PM

Use red paint.

Back to top

#11 _bathurst-racer_

Guests

Posted 05 February 2011 - 08:51 PM

By all means ask for advice and help here cos there are some very clever people on the forum. As you'll know by now Phil is one of the few guys in motorsport who is not only willing to have a chat but also really has the runs on the board to back up what he says. He can give you a few clues on chassis set up and transmissions too.
After 20 years of doing race and road car stuff with him I was hoping he was my secret but anyway all the best with your car, hope to see you at the strip one day.

Back to top

#12 _Agent 34_

Guests

Posted 28 February 2011 - 06:32 PM

Need sound check,

the conrod and piston decision is getting closer. Now with the conrods there a a few after market ones, I just want to see if there is a closeness between the standard rod and the clearance from the side of the sump ?

how much clearance is there and how much should I have to play with ?

thanks grant.

Back to top

#13 _Agent 34_

Guests

Posted 19 March 2011 - 11:09 AM

Can someone tell me if the romac balancer interchanges with the red 202 crank and a black 202 crank ?

is there any difference in diameter size of the holes, key way etc .

thanks

grant