Be good to see those pics of the toe--in tool Jeff, especially if it's simple. I like simple... Good to see you're working through the car. Many laps of the block is a good idea.
Torana hatch in California...
Started by
_LS1 Hatch_
, Feb 08 2011 01:19 PM
794 replies to this topic
#226
SmacT
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Posted 30 April 2011 - 11:42 AM
#227
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 30 April 2011 - 12:15 PM
Looks sweet LS1!;-)
Thanks!
And will do on some pics of the setup Sam...do it in the morning, about time to suss out something for dinner now,lol..
#228
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Posted 02 May 2011 - 11:17 AM
Here is the toe-in tool I made up...sorry it took a few days for the pictures, been tied up the past couple of days fixing a water leak in the bathroom which has turned into a full renovate basically, lol..
I just made it from stuff I had laying around basically...the long bit of box tubing luckily was long enough
or I could have just picked up another bit.
The ends I made out of this-and-that I had around and just painted them black for the heck of it. Just a matter of placing the little flat areas against the tire or wheel on one side of the car, and then just slide and tighten up the other side so it's snug against the similar spot on the wheel/tire. Do that behind the wheel, then just pull the tool out and slide it under the front side (like where it is in the pics) and mark on the metal cross tube where the black sliding bit was, and then loosen and slide it inwards and snug...measure how far it went in from the mark and there is the toe measurement.
Should work I figure at least.
(To double check the caster/camber will use my mate's proper tool for that)
I just made it from stuff I had laying around basically...the long bit of box tubing luckily was long enough
or I could have just picked up another bit.The ends I made out of this-and-that I had around and just painted them black for the heck of it. Just a matter of placing the little flat areas against the tire or wheel on one side of the car, and then just slide and tighten up the other side so it's snug against the similar spot on the wheel/tire. Do that behind the wheel, then just pull the tool out and slide it under the front side (like where it is in the pics) and mark on the metal cross tube where the black sliding bit was, and then loosen and slide it inwards and snug...measure how far it went in from the mark and there is the toe measurement.
Should work I figure at least.
(To double check the caster/camber will use my mate's proper tool for that)
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#229
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Posted 02 May 2011 - 12:03 PM
Oh, made these up too...
Alignment plates.
When I mocked up the caster and camber on the car, I had done it before I put the coil springs into the front..I just set the spindles at "about" ride height and set it there to get it close. Now that it's all together and settled, want to set it properly. Since you need to swing the steering from left to right while doing it, I came up with these plates...alignment shops of course (here at least) have alignment racks with steel plates to do the job..but these should work ok for once or twice as well.
Just went to the metal supply place and grabbed some scrap aluminum. Got lucky in that they even had some circle cut pieces! Just drilled a hole through the circles and a square piece as the base, and tapped threads into the base piece. Then counter sunk in the circle piece for a 5/16 counter sunk allen head screw. Then just smeered grease inbetween the plates and with some thread lock on the screw, lightly tightened it in. I can stand on them and twist ok, and hopefully will be able to just drive the front wheels onto them and turn. (the circular bits are a little smaller in diameter than I would have liked, but they had them laying around as-is and should be big enough for the footprint of the tire) For about a $15 investment and a couple hours it's worth a shot at least, lol...
Alignment plates.
When I mocked up the caster and camber on the car, I had done it before I put the coil springs into the front..I just set the spindles at "about" ride height and set it there to get it close. Now that it's all together and settled, want to set it properly. Since you need to swing the steering from left to right while doing it, I came up with these plates...alignment shops of course (here at least) have alignment racks with steel plates to do the job..but these should work ok for once or twice as well.
Just went to the metal supply place and grabbed some scrap aluminum. Got lucky in that they even had some circle cut pieces! Just drilled a hole through the circles and a square piece as the base, and tapped threads into the base piece. Then counter sunk in the circle piece for a 5/16 counter sunk allen head screw. Then just smeered grease inbetween the plates and with some thread lock on the screw, lightly tightened it in. I can stand on them and twist ok, and hopefully will be able to just drive the front wheels onto them and turn. (the circular bits are a little smaller in diameter than I would have liked, but they had them laying around as-is and should be big enough for the footprint of the tire) For about a $15 investment and a couple hours it's worth a shot at least, lol...
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#230
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Posted 08 May 2011 - 09:23 AM
Be good to see those pics of the toe--in tool Jeff, especially if it's simple. I like simple... Good to see you're working through the car. Many laps of the block is a good idea.
So what did you think of the home made tool idea?
I have not even had time to try it yet though...been caught up trying to renovate a bathroom
#231
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 08 May 2011 - 09:31 AM
Hmm thats a good idea.
I did it myself years ago using a long piece of 4x2, two 20lt drums and a tape measure.
Put the 4x2 on the drums and lined it up against the back wheel, and adjusted the front from that. That way i could adjust my front end for line of thrust as well.
Worked well, i did that when i was 16, then took the car to a wheel alignment place and they said i had it within two degrees lol, not bad
Cheers.
I did it myself years ago using a long piece of 4x2, two 20lt drums and a tape measure.
Put the 4x2 on the drums and lined it up against the back wheel, and adjusted the front from that. That way i could adjust my front end for line of thrust as well.
Worked well, i did that when i was 16, then took the car to a wheel alignment place and they said i had it within two degrees lol, not bad
Cheers.
#232
SmacT
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Posted 08 May 2011 - 09:33 PM
Just trying to work out how you manufacture all that time you seem to have Jeff! Inspiring stuff. I just have to stick the steering rack back in my LX then it's off to the panel shop, so maybe I should give this a go now, as the crossmember is full of new stuff.
good luck with the bathroom.
good luck with the bathroom.
#233
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 09 May 2011 - 02:07 AM
Hmm thats a good idea.
I did it myself years ago using a long piece of 4x2, two 20lt drums and a tape measure.
Put the 4x2 on the drums and lined it up against the back wheel, and adjusted the front from that. That way i could adjust my front end for line of thrust as well.
Worked well, i did that when i was 16, then took the car to a wheel alignment place and they said i had it within two degrees lol, not bad
Cheers.
That sounds like a good way to do it all as well!
I remember ages ago when I had converted my VH Charger to rack, I did all the front end by eye and drove down to get it aligned, it was actually pretty close the guy said, lol (that is back when there was a decent front end place around to do alignments....now I just prefer to do it myself or with the help of a mate who was an old alignment guy)
#234
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Posted 09 May 2011 - 02:12 AM
Just trying to work out how you manufacture all that time you seem to have Jeff! Inspiring stuff. I just have to stick the steering rack back in my LX then it's off to the panel shop, so maybe I should give this a go now, as the crossmember is full of new stuff.
good luck with the bathroom.
I wish I had more time...I got the other belt tensioner the other day too...have not done anything with it, or the alignment for the car since building that jig. Got to finish up the renovation on the bathroom I'm in the middle of (sort of unplanned due to a leak)
Got the drywall about done though..got to hang the last piece today and get to taping and mudding after that..then paint and new toilet and vanity. It never ends!
Hopefully can get it all knocked out by next week so can get back to playing with the little things on the car and do some more miles in it...June will be here soon and it's time to start loading containers again!
#235
View GaragePosted 09 May 2011 - 06:56 AM
No reason that toe alignment tool won't be perfectly accurate, and nice and easy to use. I've always just done it with a straight edge and chalk marks on the driveway, never out by much
#236
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 09 May 2011 - 09:17 AM
Thanks...it should do the trick I reckon too.
Just about finished with my drywall work meanwhile, after a drama with a leaking new shutoff valve for the sink..
Going to get the taping and all done tomorrow at least hopefully! (knock on wood...haha)
Just about finished with my drywall work meanwhile, after a drama with a leaking new shutoff valve for the sink..
Going to get the taping and all done tomorrow at least hopefully! (knock on wood...haha)
#237
rexy
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Posted 09 May 2011 - 01:23 PM
I must say its refreshing to see a car with a few well earned stone chips. At times it seems everyone has a show queen (guilty myself with some of the fleet).
#238
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 10 May 2011 - 10:07 AM
It certainlly has it's share of chips,etc. One of these days I will get it painted, but it's nice in a way to not really be worried about it as it is !
#239
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Posted 13 May 2011 - 10:27 AM
Just had my mate come over today with his castor/camber gauge...and the alignment plates I made worked PERFECTLY! Made an easy job of it
Got that set and the toe-in taken care of too. Just have to do the tensioner now for the belt and will be good to go. (I revved it a few times today and you can see the slack in the belt sort of 'catch up' when you rev it and let it off.
The bathroom project is coming along good so will be able to concentrate back on the car next week hopefully!
Got that set and the toe-in taken care of too. Just have to do the tensioner now for the belt and will be good to go. (I revved it a few times today and you can see the slack in the belt sort of 'catch up' when you rev it and let it off.
The bathroom project is coming along good so will be able to concentrate back on the car next week hopefully!
#240
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Posted 20 May 2011 - 12:24 PM
Finally got some time to get the tensioner on!
It came with a billet pulley as you can see, but the setup I use moves the original ribbed pulley off of the tensioner and up to a fixed location, then used a smooth pulley on the tensioner. So I moved the billet one to replace the original Camaro one still on the engine...and will eventually get a billet smooth replacement one as well.
Here are some pictures of the tensioner..
It came with a billet pulley as you can see, but the setup I use moves the original ribbed pulley off of the tensioner and up to a fixed location, then used a smooth pulley on the tensioner. So I moved the billet one to replace the original Camaro one still on the engine...and will eventually get a billet smooth replacement one as well.
Here are some pictures of the tensioner..
#242
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 20 May 2011 - 12:34 PM
Here it the new one in place! After getting it adjusted I let the engine warm up and revved it to about 3000 rpm which is about when you started to see the harmonics in the original setup and the belt would start to bunch up abit (especially as you would rev it higher..very noticable!)
This seems to fix it perfectly...just have to check the tension now and then while the belt is new until it stretches into it's eventual "used" length.
Had a few other things going on today so didn't really get much time to go for a run and wind it out abit to double check it, but will soon as I get some time
(And will eventually get the billet pulley for the tensioner as I mentioned too...not too fond of the plastic stuff!)
This seems to fix it perfectly...just have to check the tension now and then while the belt is new until it stretches into it's eventual "used" length.
Had a few other things going on today so didn't really get much time to go for a run and wind it out abit to double check it, but will soon as I get some time
(And will eventually get the billet pulley for the tensioner as I mentioned too...not too fond of the plastic stuff!)
#243
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Posted 21 May 2011 - 01:22 PM
Drove it around a little today when I had a chance and so far so good! I did adjust it again..the new belt does seem to stretch a little, so will have to keep an eye on it for a little bit I reckon. Now to just get onto the few other little things to check out on it!
I will be switching to a billet pulley for the tensioner too for sure...not sure how great a quality the plastic one I used (to try out) is..
I will be switching to a billet pulley for the tensioner too for sure...not sure how great a quality the plastic one I used (to try out) is..
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#244
_Liam_
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Posted 21 May 2011 - 02:42 PM
Mate that is a nice car. What's your next Aussie classic you are going to import?
#245
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 22 May 2011 - 01:56 AM
Eventually, think I'd like to do another VG coupe. I've had a bunch of Chargers, and kinda over them. Have also brought over a couple of VG's so far, and think I might build one of them up perhaps again some day? (as far as holding onto for a while) I've got a spare complete 6-pack setup on the shelf in the shed for a hemi and a couple 265's around..so be good to do something with them I guess..haha
Or a 4 door LX (flares and all of course) with a LS based engine and auto (Thinking LS3/6 speed auto) maybe as a cruiser?
If only I had a bigger shed, lol..
Or a 4 door LX (flares and all of course) with a LS based engine and auto (Thinking LS3/6 speed auto) maybe as a cruiser?
If only I had a bigger shed, lol..
#246
DanWA
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Posted 22 May 2011 - 03:27 AM
a mate has a very nice vg vip if thats down your alley?
#247
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 22 May 2011 - 11:00 AM
Thanks for mentioning it!, but too many doors for me....will do another coupe (like the last couple I brought over)
But not going to even think about the next project until the Torana is 100% done, bugs worked out, trimmed, etc,etc. ha ha...I've tried doing 2 projects at once and too much of a pain.
But not going to even think about the next project until the Torana is 100% done, bugs worked out, trimmed, etc,etc. ha ha...I've tried doing 2 projects at once and too much of a pain.
#248
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 26 May 2011 - 01:04 PM
Finally got my speedo sorted out!
I am using a electronic to mechanical conversion box....so I can keep using the factory tacho dash setup. It takes the PCM signal and outputs to a speedometer cable..
Anyways...I was not getting any movement out of it and couldn't quite figure it out. The box has 12 dip switches that you look up the on/off coding in thier book by going off of the diff ratio, trans signal, and tire revolutions per mile. I figured out how to convert that part of it to KPH easy enough but still had no luck. I rang the company who makes it, and the lady there was really switched on and gave me a few things to try. Still was not having too much luck using the PCM output signal to signal the box...so decided to take the raw signal from the speed sensor on the transmission. And bingo, got it to work! It was about 20 k's off though using the codes they recommend, so after what seemed like hours of trying one, checking the speed, changing it and trying again, etc... I got it pretty well spot on now!
Going off my GPS navigation at 40 k's and 70 k's the speedometer is right on. Really happy to get that sorted out!
Just have to see why the factory tach is readying a little low (when I hook up an autometer tach to the tach adapter output it reads right on) but at least making some progress on the few little issues.
I am using a electronic to mechanical conversion box....so I can keep using the factory tacho dash setup. It takes the PCM signal and outputs to a speedometer cable..
Anyways...I was not getting any movement out of it and couldn't quite figure it out. The box has 12 dip switches that you look up the on/off coding in thier book by going off of the diff ratio, trans signal, and tire revolutions per mile. I figured out how to convert that part of it to KPH easy enough but still had no luck. I rang the company who makes it, and the lady there was really switched on and gave me a few things to try. Still was not having too much luck using the PCM output signal to signal the box...so decided to take the raw signal from the speed sensor on the transmission. And bingo, got it to work! It was about 20 k's off though using the codes they recommend, so after what seemed like hours of trying one, checking the speed, changing it and trying again, etc... I got it pretty well spot on now!
Going off my GPS navigation at 40 k's and 70 k's the speedometer is right on. Really happy to get that sorted out!Just have to see why the factory tach is readying a little low (when I hook up an autometer tach to the tach adapter output it reads right on) but at least making some progress on the few little issues.
#249
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 11:13 AM
I changed the oil in the car today (Mobil 1 synthetic...) and just took a couple of quick pictures to show a couple other angles and shots I wasn't sure if I showed before ?
You can see where I mounted the oil filter...nice easy spot to get too, and worked out really well.
The second picture...you can see the postive battery cable I used, which is a factory new GM one for a late model genIII powered truck (like the 2002 GMC I own with a 6.0 liter) I also used the factory truck red plastic junction box which is where the battery cable is connected to the fusable link going up the alternator. I figured why rethink everything when GM did all the work for me!
The third picture...you can see more of the battery cables. The positive from the alternator joins up with the feed to the starter (stock GM wiring again) and also goes then up to the battery. The other line (with the silver foil wrap) is a factory GM ground cable I used as well..
You can see where I mounted the oil filter...nice easy spot to get too, and worked out really well.
The second picture...you can see the postive battery cable I used, which is a factory new GM one for a late model genIII powered truck (like the 2002 GMC I own with a 6.0 liter) I also used the factory truck red plastic junction box which is where the battery cable is connected to the fusable link going up the alternator. I figured why rethink everything when GM did all the work for me!
The third picture...you can see more of the battery cables. The positive from the alternator joins up with the feed to the starter (stock GM wiring again) and also goes then up to the battery. The other line (with the silver foil wrap) is a factory GM ground cable I used as well..
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#250
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Posted 19 June 2011 - 08:11 AM
Was out for a little drive today...and took a quick pic when I could, just to show what a Torana looks like going down the "correct" side of the street...
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