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lh injection project
Started by
_Torza_
, Mar 05 2011 08:28 PM
159 replies to this topic
#27
SmacT
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Posted 29 May 2011 - 08:33 PM
Show us a pic of your crossmember Torza. I had the same dramas, until this forum pointed out I had a four cylinder crossmember in the car - one type of crossmember fits, the other four cylinder option doesn't. The one pic I could see there looks like the right cross member is in you car, but worth double checking. Once I had the right xmember in, it dropped in piece of cake.
Or that^^ :-) ha ha.
Or that^^ :-) ha ha.
Edited by SmacT, 29 May 2011 - 08:34 PM.
#28
_Torza_
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Posted 29 May 2011 - 09:26 PM
hey thanks for the tips guys dont have any good pics of the crossmember smacT but was told the car had a 6 cylinder in it before i got it should be right i think. after looking through some of my photos i think i may have the rubbers on upside down thanks 76lxhatch ill try turning them round tomorrow... been bugging me all day that has and dont think i would of thought of turning them round so hope that does it!
#29
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Posted 29 May 2011 - 10:21 PM
also had problems trying to get it to fit with the alt sitting where it was (kept hitting the lip on the chassis rail) do you have to move it? and the starter motor seemed to be hitting the crossmember does that have to be changed? or can i fit it when the motor is in and sitting right?
#30
Neils LX
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 07:37 AM
You dont have to trim the lip but if you nead to pull the dissy out you its a good idea to trim the upper lip and lower lip for room
Alternator bracket from VN wont fit so you will have to use a Torana or Rare spares one.
As you have a VN motor the fuel rail should clear the heater box but VR-VS one wont.
Im not sure on the starter thou it should fit but could be different im sure i had a commodore one in mine before.
Im used a HZ at the moment and it fitted fine.
Are you wiring yourself or using a kit?
Alternator bracket from VN wont fit so you will have to use a Torana or Rare spares one.
As you have a VN motor the fuel rail should clear the heater box but VR-VS one wont.
Im not sure on the starter thou it should fit but could be different im sure i had a commodore one in mine before.
Im used a HZ at the moment and it fitted fine.
Are you wiring yourself or using a kit?
#31
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 08:06 AM
thanks guys dont know what im doing with the wiring yet. the way i did things (may sound stuipid) but i thought it was a good idea at the time was while i had the commodore still running i cut all the wires not needed to make it start and run. i cut so much out i got the loom down to 2 fuses in the fuse box under the dash and 2 relays under the bonnet . then when i pulled the motor out the whole loom came with it including ingition so when its all in the torana it should start and run but wont be wired to the torana loom so nothing of the torana will work (somehow have to splice the 2 looms into 1 loom) but atlease i can start it and drive it out the garage then
#32
MRLXSS
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 08:47 AM
Coming along well mate!
Hopefully flipping the engine mount will do the trick for ya and it'll drop into place...
Good Luck!!
Hopefully flipping the engine mount will do the trick for ya and it'll drop into place...
Good Luck!!
#33
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 09:43 PM
thanks mrlxss... well i got home from work today and headed straight out to the garage to flip the engine mounts and guess what....
got it all fitted! there seems to be enough room at the back so dont think ill cut the top lip for now but at the sides there dont seem to be too much room for the exhaust headers
think i might cut the side chassis rails flush and since it joins the lower firewall lip ill cut that flush too i think it makes the engine bay look so much better looking and it'll give me a bit of extra room
got it all fitted! there seems to be enough room at the back so dont think ill cut the top lip for now but at the sides there dont seem to be too much room for the exhaust headers
think i might cut the side chassis rails flush and since it joins the lower firewall lip ill cut that flush too i think it makes the engine bay look so much better looking and it'll give me a bit of extra room
#34
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 09:56 PM
Looks good! I love the cut rails look, just need to decide what you want to do with the chassis number, which is drivers side front.
#35
Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:41 AM
Great stuff, although you probably should have had the headers sitting in the engine bay before you dropped the engine in. If you're lucky they may squeeze in from underneath with the starter etc removed
#36
Neils LX
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:48 AM
Great stuff, although you probably should have had the headers sitting in the engine bay before you dropped the engine in. If you're lucky they may squeeze in from underneath with the starter etc removed
I used factory headers and can still get them in.
#37
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:28 AM
The Headers will fit! The fun begins when you have to change the spark plugs! HAHA!
#38
_nial8r_
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:03 PM
you will need a HQ low mount alternator bracket and it bolts up on the right side instead of the left. got mine on evil bay. also PM Matt ( LH SL/R 3300 ) he got a set of extractors that bolted up with out having to trim the rails. the only reason we all trim the top rail on the firewall is so you can can to the dizzy cap. good luck with the build, your not the only one so there are plenty of answers around here 
#39
_77hatch_
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 06:53 PM
you can slide the headers in from the front with the radiator & alternator out , i have had to modify the passengers header as the exhaust flange hits on the crossmember
have fun
have fun
Great stuff, although you probably should have had the headers sitting in the engine bay before you dropped the engine in. If you're lucky they may squeeze in from underneath with the starter etc removed
I used factory headers and can still get them in.
#40
_Torza_
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:27 PM
thanks guys for all the good feedback this is just a trial fit i have to get a set of headers yet but yeah motor will be coming back out soon as i still have to cut the rust out from behind the bonnet hinges and ill do the chassis rail lips too... bit scary as i have never attempted anything like this before (i dont even have a welder yet) but i am keen to learn so thanks for all the little tips and tricks keep em coming!
#41
_Kush_
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:40 PM
I first cut my "panel chop" teeth on chassis rails. It's easy as! Hook in buddy, it'll work out fine. 
#42
RBTORY
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Posted 01 June 2011 - 04:10 AM
hey Troy weve all been there keep the finished picture in your head good motivator keep at it
#43
_Torza_
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Posted 02 June 2011 - 10:25 PM
just wondering if anyone who has done this conversion could share how they riged up the accelerator cable?
#44
Neils LX
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Posted 02 June 2011 - 11:56 PM
Yeah done the conversion. Modded the drivers acc bracke and this bracket in the picture so stock VN-VS accelerator cable work. VN-VR V6 cables same as VN-VS one. but VS is shorter and wont fit.
Engine should look like this when all done
Engine should look like this when all done
#45
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 10:51 PM
hey neil thanks for that your a life saver i fitted the commodore cable up but the accerator pedal was almost to the floor and i wasnt getting full throtle movment the cable was too long but now ive seen how you modified the throtle body bracket i think ill do the same and that will fix the problem
#46
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 03 June 2011 - 11:47 PM
all i did was bent my accelerator pedal to the same shape as the commodore one and it works fine . 10 minute job. 
#47
_Torza_
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Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:22 AM
ok got the accelerator pedal sorted... for now. i just got a heap of nuts and cut a slot into them then fed them onto the cable to take up the slack. then to hold them all together i pushed them all into a bit of heater hose... works good for now
#48
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Posted 17 July 2011 - 06:41 PM
hi guys been ages since i last updated so here it is.... i have ordered a new alt mount but still waiting on that then i think the motor and box will be coming back out. i was looking at the rear end the other day trying to see just how much bog was in it this is how it started out...
dont look that bad right but when i look in the boot.... the whole thing is held together with beer cans!
so a bit of grinding and....
dont look that bad right but when i look in the boot.... the whole thing is held together with beer cans!
so a bit of grinding and....
#49
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Posted 17 July 2011 - 07:17 PM
took the rear bumper off and thought it was a bit funny that not all the bolts to hold it in place were used... then took a look at the beaver panel and saw not all the holes for the bolts were there... more bog!
got out the grinder again and...
got out the grinder again and...
#50
_Torza_
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Posted 17 July 2011 - 09:33 PM
hey guys quick question will my v8 fit on this crossmember? i was given it by a mate but he said it had a 4cylinder sitting on it. i thought the 4cylinder ones were different but this one looks the same as what i got in the car now.... thought i might strip this one and fit all new bushes and ball joints so its ready to fit straight in when im ready
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