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Yes it will suit, that one would have had a Starfire four cylinder (the Opel four uses different mounts)
lh injection project
Started by
_Torza_
, Mar 05 2011 08:28 PM
159 replies to this topic
#52
SmacT
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Posted 18 July 2011 - 12:47 PM
^^Yep, I found out the hard way there are two types of four cylinder crossmember, but the one you have is right for a holden V8 or 6.
#53
_Torza_
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Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:36 PM
hi guys thought it was about time to check in and let you all know what i been up to.first off do any of you guys know if the v6 starter motor of a commodore will fit a v8? i managed to fit the v8 one into the torana but as you can see its got bugger all clearance... one good rev and i think id snap it in half
i got under my vx commodore and looked at its starter and think that it might fit, its got a smaller body and the solenoid is mounted on top not on the side so what do you think will it fit?
i got under my vx commodore and looked at its starter and think that it might fit, its got a smaller body and the solenoid is mounted on top not on the side so what do you think will it fit?
#54
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:26 PM
i recently brought what i was told was a efi 5ltr v8 starter for mine and it would not fit despite me trying everything including grinding some of the 'snout' down , later i found out that i had been given a v6 one . 
#55
mick_in_oz
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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:20 AM
That i'm awear of, all holden V8 starters shoud fit in a torana. Some of them have the solenoid at a different angle (very minor difference), even tho most are listed as the same part number at a spare supplies shop. Most of the trouble fitting a starter comes from the engine mount adaptors being from a Holden and not from a Torana. The adaptor that attaches the mount to the engine block is deeper/thicker on a Torana, not sure on the exact measurement, but its something like 1/4", the extra height of the adaptors will position the engine higher and give you back the misssing starter clearance, you could simpy cut some steel or aluminium plate and fit them as shims between the block and your adaptors.
#56
_Torza_
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Posted 04 September 2011 - 09:59 PM
hmmm ill have to look into that cant really leave it the way it is its got only about 1 mm clearance, if any of you guys have a pic of your starters fitted id love to see how much room you have got. ok so what elce have i been up to lets see first off i got a new alt mount fitted so got that sorted out and i got a set of exhaust headers
still have to fit them yet. also i started cutting all the rust out the back end so got the beaver cut off and the lower quarter too but found more rust so have to sort that out now.
still have to fit them yet. also i started cutting all the rust out the back end so got the beaver cut off and the lower quarter too but found more rust so have to sort that out now.
#57
_SLR Torrie_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:37 AM
Great work Troy! Good to see you finding solutions to you problems.
Haha, my beaver and quarter looked exactly the same as yours! Although, I didn't get the privilege of beer cans
Keep up the great work!
John
Haha, my beaver and quarter looked exactly the same as yours! Although, I didn't get the privilege of beer cans
Keep up the great work!
John
#58
bryanw
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Posted 10 September 2011 - 02:52 PM
think later ie vs onward v8 had the smaller reduction starter motor, will give you more room. but thought the big starter was suppose to fit?
#59
LXCHEV
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Posted 11 September 2011 - 08:59 AM
Great project, would love to do this conversion one day. Keep the updates coming!
#60
_Torza_
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Posted 11 September 2011 - 09:48 PM
hi guys been back in the garage this afternoon to have a tinker about and see what i can do to fix the rust in the back quarter inner wheel arch, i managed to make up a template of the bit i need but as i have never done anything like this any hints/tips would be a great help
#61
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:14 PM
Great stuff, although you probably should have had the headers sitting in the engine bay before you dropped the engine in. If you're lucky they may squeeze in from underneath with the starter etc removed
that is right!! you can JUST sneak the p/s one in but the drivers side one needs to be in there before the engine but you are probably just trial fitting everything and intended on removing the engine later anyway for the paintjob ect but it is something to remember when re-fitting it..
This might help you in regards to the starter motor , the solenoid is on top and its small enough to clear the headers with a tiny bit ground off it, i will try to get you some pics of mine if i can... starter on ebay
Edited by robslxhatch, 12 September 2011 - 06:24 PM.
#62
_Torza_
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Posted 12 September 2011 - 10:00 PM
hey guys thanks for all the positive comments it means a lot and rob great link thanks those starters look the goods might order one on pay day ill let you all know how i get on.
#63
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 12 September 2011 - 10:17 PM
hey guys thanks for all the positive comments it means a lot and rob great link thanks those starters look the goods might order one on pay day ill let you all know how i get on.
i don't know what the quality of those ebay ones are like , i brought a bosch bxh138 if i remember rightly.
#64
mick_in_oz
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Posted 17 October 2011 - 07:38 AM
Out of interest on the engine mount adaptors. The Holden ones measure close to 46mm thick and the genuine Torana ones measure about the 52mm mark.
#65
_Torza_
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Posted 21 October 2011 - 07:35 PM
hi guys its been soooo long thought it time to update you all and let you know where im at. i have been still stripping the paint back and have to say im very disappointed at what i have been finding. this is a shot of the r/h/s quarter... what i thought was the good side.
the bog in some spots was about 15mm thick!
im no panel beater and this was a bit of a shock to find so while i try to learn up on my panel beating skills i thought it best to put some undercoat on just to stop any rust starting. this is only done using a can but i think it looks better already
oh yeah i cut my beaver to fit but its just sitting there for now still have to get a welder and learn to use it before i tackle that job.
the bog in some spots was about 15mm thick!
im no panel beater and this was a bit of a shock to find so while i try to learn up on my panel beating skills i thought it best to put some undercoat on just to stop any rust starting. this is only done using a can but i think it looks better already
oh yeah i cut my beaver to fit but its just sitting there for now still have to get a welder and learn to use it before i tackle that job.
#66
_Torza_
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Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:24 AM
also i pulled the motor back out and fitted the exhaust headers on. will it fit in with them mounted or do i have to bolt them on after the block is in? still have to sort the starter motor out but got a bit of time yet. now the engine is out i want to tidy the engine bay up and cut all lips to give as much room as i can....i forget to remove the engine cover on the r/h/s and got into some trouble with it getting snagged on the top lip. so shittie at myself with that!
#67
Neils LX
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Posted 22 October 2011 - 01:25 PM
Let me know which side covers busted if you want another one. I have a few here in the shed.
#68
dattoman
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Posted 22 October 2011 - 03:08 PM
The best way to fit the engine is to mount it complete with box, exhaust and starter onto the Xmember
Then roll it under the shell and lower the body onto it
Since you have a spare Xmember.. .that should be the easiest way
And if I recall... left and right mounts are different heights... so make sure you have them on the correct side (or is that just for Chevs)
Then roll it under the shell and lower the body onto it
Since you have a spare Xmember.. .that should be the easiest way
And if I recall... left and right mounts are different heights... so make sure you have them on the correct side (or is that just for Chevs)
#69
_Torza_
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Posted 30 October 2011 - 10:34 PM
hey neil thanks for the offer of the engine cover might take you up on it just let me know what you want for it and the cost to get it to melbourne, im in no hurry though the cars nowhere near ready ive been a bit slack of late so not much been done to my car but what i did do was to pull my engine mounts back off just to check if there different from left to right but just my luck there the same, must be chevs that are different.
also went on a bit of a road trip with a mate to a wrecking yard that had a dozen or so lh/uc toranas and picked up a few goodies! i spent $300 and got a complete dash, round headlight buckets and lights, a uc pull up handbrake and console, a l/h/r door, both rear door rain gutters, a commodore air filter box and lots of little odds and ends,all in all a good trip!
also went on a bit of a road trip with a mate to a wrecking yard that had a dozen or so lh/uc toranas and picked up a few goodies! i spent $300 and got a complete dash, round headlight buckets and lights, a uc pull up handbrake and console, a l/h/r door, both rear door rain gutters, a commodore air filter box and lots of little odds and ends,all in all a good trip!
#70
_Torza_
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Posted 30 October 2011 - 11:25 PM
im sure someone here has done the uc handbrake conversion has anyone got any pics? i remember reading something about having to stregthening the tunnel ? any tips would be great
#71
dattoman
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Posted 30 October 2011 - 11:41 PM
#72
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Posted 30 October 2011 - 11:48 PM
Shit,i didnt know there was that much difrence,measure twice or even thrice b4 cutting by the look of it.
#73
_Torza_
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Posted 31 October 2011 - 09:31 AM
yeah cool thats what i needed but damn the wrecker would'nt let me cut the tunnel out of the uc so anyone got a uc out there that i can cut up?
#74
_nial8r_
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Posted 31 October 2011 - 10:22 AM
that black dash was a good score. people are paying more than $300 just for the lower section uncut..
#75
_Torza_
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Posted 31 October 2011 - 10:58 AM
yeah that lower dash has an extra hole drilled in it and has been cut to fit a radio but when i asked how much he wanted for it he told me $20... cant go wrong for that so i got a second one too!
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