Hvaing troubles with the ecotec in the Torrie. I had a loudish noise coming from the engine which i was told was my alternator. So i sourced a "new" (second hand) one from the wreckers. When my car wouldnt start (was turning over) i decided to change the alternator, and it started straight away.
With the "new" alternator installed i had the same noise coming from the engine, and then the car wouldnt fire again. So i assumed that the "new" alternator was a dud. Took it back to the wreckers to get an exchange and the bloke there said he wouldnt change it cause there is nothing wrong with it, and there must be another problem.
Well i have no idea what the problem is! Any help or ideas? I really thought it was the alternator cause as soon as i changed it, it worked!
The car has now power steering or a/c, so cant be a problem with those pulleys
3.8 Ecotec Problems
Started by
_Ben_
, Apr 08 2011 10:54 AM
51 replies to this topic
#2
MRLXSS
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:26 AM
Is there any way you can check for codes on the Ecotec?
How long did it work for after changing the alt? When you changed the alt, you would have disconnected the battery and reset the system? (Which may have cleared any faults)
There could be a sensor or something gone?
I'm just thinking out a loud... you may have already checked these things...
How long did it work for after changing the alt? When you changed the alt, you would have disconnected the battery and reset the system? (Which may have cleared any faults)
There could be a sensor or something gone?
I'm just thinking out a loud... you may have already checked these things...
#3
_Ben_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:33 AM
I dont think i can check for codes without some diagnostic machine. I dont have anything to display the codes in the car
#4
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:36 AM
I do have problems with the starter motor sometimes(need a new solenoid). Maybe im just confusing this noise with the typical sound of a Commodore
#5
_tomo123_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 04:00 PM
if the engine turns over but no fire i'd say crank angle sensor.
when is was in the game they use to be fairly common on those motors.
when is was in the game they use to be fairly common on those motors.
#6
rodomo
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 04:08 PM
And your noise might be the harmonic balancer. They rattle and clatter, also a common fault.
#7
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 04:16 PM
if the engine turns over but no fire i'd say crank angle sensor.
when is was in the game they use to be fairly common on those motors.
does it not start hot or cold?
if it's hot starting problems throw cold water on the cas
if it starts bingo cas fault
check your fuel too these things are a fussy tempermental motor
#8
rodomo
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 04:19 PM
Bull. The motors are good for what they are. It's all the plastic crappy bits of poo that bolt to them that make them fail.
#9
View GaragePosted 08 April 2011 - 05:17 PM
Yes you can. In a Commodore, the diagnostic plug is the one mounted under the dash directly beneath the steering wheel (actually under the dash beneath the fuse compartment, not in it). Just bridge pins 5 & 6 (count from 1 at left on top row) with a paper clip or something, and the check engine light will flash. There will be a short pause between the 10s and 1s, and a long pause between each code which is repeated 3 times. Normally you would get 1, 2 then 1, 2 then 1, 2 which means code 12 which is all good. If the ECU has a fault to report you will also see other codes - lists available on the Internet, I can dig something up if you get any faults.I dont think i can check for codes without some diagnostic machine. I dont have anything to display the codes in the car
#10
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 05:23 PM
Bull. The motors are good for what they are. It's all the plastic crappy bits of poo that bolt to them that make them fail.
Correct, I'm still tryin to kill my VP. It wonm't friggin die.
Yes you can. In a Commodore, the diagnostic plug is the one mounted under the dash directly beneath the steering wheel (actually under the dash beneath the fuse compartment, not in it). Just bridge pins 5 & 6 (count from 1 at left on top row) with a paper clip or something, and the check engine light will flash. There will be a short pause between the 10s and 1s, and a long pause between each code which is repeated 3 times. Normally you would get 1, 2 then 1, 2 then 1, 2 which means code 12 which is all good. If the ECU has a fault to report you will also see other codes - lists available on the Internet, I can dig something up if you get any faults.
I dont think i can check for codes without some diagnostic machine. I dont have anything to display the codes in the car
Yeah but his one is in a Torana, guessing it has no check engine light.
My moneys on CAS. Very common problem.
Edited by slr_v8, 08 April 2011 - 05:24 PM.
#11
_Ben_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 05:39 PM
Correct no engine check light.
The car does not start hot or cold. Im just curious as to why when this happened last time and i changed my alternator the car started straight away.
The car does not start hot or cold. Im just curious as to why when this happened last time and i changed my alternator the car started straight away.
#12
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 05:54 PM
So is it cranking over?
#13
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 06:08 PM
Bull. The motors are good for what they are. It's all the plastic crappy bits of poo that bolt to them that make them fail.
ha ha
yeah the longs are good
it's the coil packs/thermostats/fuel pumps etc etc
that let them down
same as the poxy vl /nissan 6
#14
_tomo123_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:04 PM
Correct no engine check light.
The car does not start hot or cold. Im just curious as to why when this happened last time and i changed my alternator the car started straight away.
don't let the alternator cloud your thinking
#15
_lxefi304_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:38 PM
at a guess id think the balancer has died and chewed out the crank angle sensor. have u tried running or cranking the eng with no belt at all?
#16
Posted 08 April 2011 - 10:10 PM
Why not set one up? You need it anyway...Correct no engine check light.
I don't understand why you'd guess at potential problems when the PCM can tell you exactly what's wrong?
#17
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 10:13 PM
True. If I was gonna run a v6 I'd keep the diagnostic link and the engine light.
#19
_Ben_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 10:22 PM
I would personally keep the diagnostic link and engine light, but i didnt install the engine, so hence they are missing.
I honestly havent spent any time checking for fuel and spark, been at uni all day. I would assume its there cause it fired up after i changed alternators. I will try and start the car with no belt. This should tell me if there is a problem with the harmonic balancer?
I honestly havent spent any time checking for fuel and spark, been at uni all day. I would assume its there cause it fired up after i changed alternators. I will try and start the car with no belt. This should tell me if there is a problem with the harmonic balancer?
#20
_Quagmire_
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Posted 08 April 2011 - 11:02 PM
it will tell you if that or you pulleys/bearings are making the noise
#21
Posted 09 April 2011 - 07:05 AM
They are connected directly to the PCM, all you have to do is dig out a wiring diagram and grab the correct wires.I would personally keep the diagnostic link and engine light, but i didnt install the engine, so hence they are missing.
Engines are not magical things - if you haven't checked for fuel and spark yet, do that! At least its a bit more productive than guessing...
#22
71xu1
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Posted 09 April 2011 - 08:58 PM
PCM doesn't always tell you what is wrong. If only it were that simple like it is supposed to be.
Edited by 71xu1, 09 April 2011 - 09:00 PM.
#24
_blownlcgtr_
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Posted 09 April 2011 - 11:07 PM
Hi
you havent said if the noise is bearing related or a knock/bang might help answer problems check fuel & spark if it has a faulty cas you wont get spark cas is commonbut usually under hot start conditions, as is harmonic balancer slipping on the rubber hence changing the position of the balancer giving the cas the wrong signal,and will cause a horrible noise, coil packs also could cause a non start situation fuel pressure could be a problem as the pump can still make noise and not pump properly. they are a pretty reliable engines not much else goes wrong with them
you havent said if the noise is bearing related or a knock/bang might help answer problems check fuel & spark if it has a faulty cas you wont get spark cas is commonbut usually under hot start conditions, as is harmonic balancer slipping on the rubber hence changing the position of the balancer giving the cas the wrong signal,and will cause a horrible noise, coil packs also could cause a non start situation fuel pressure could be a problem as the pump can still make noise and not pump properly. they are a pretty reliable engines not much else goes wrong with them
#25
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Posted 10 April 2011 - 12:29 AM
ecoshit
series 2 style coil packs
lot better than the series 1 vn poxy tawian shithe things
but yeah check all the things above including relays and earth leads
this may have been why it started the second time
might be the computer too
m8t had the same prob on his pos vs
series 2 style coil packs
lot better than the series 1 vn poxy tawian shithe things
but yeah check all the things above including relays and earth leads
this may have been why it started the second time
might be the computer too
m8t had the same prob on his pos vs
Edited by Quagmire, 10 April 2011 - 12:33 AM.
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