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The second Hole ! easy tiger!

Started by _Agent 34_ , Apr 18 2011 01:15 PM

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46 replies to this topic

#1 _Agent 34_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 01:15 PM

Guys,

For the purist out there this will equate to cheating and other stuff. But while I have the front end out of the car and also would like to do some track work in the end ( social ) the question of the second hole for the control arms to be set in lower has been bugging me a lot.

See Im ready for the paint of the front end and now is the time to do the mod.

So before you all stone me for this, can you first help with measurements and also any pictures of crossmembers that are original and or have been done to standard.

I've had a look at the fiv's book and it only shows the second hole and when it is to be put in there - eg on the service.

Ive got three questions;
1) whats the distance
2) the second hole will seem close to the edge when done at 25mm and do you need to do anything else to support this new hole
3) can someone show me an original one just for the record.

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#2 _rocket_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 02:17 PM

Is this what you are looking for ?

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#3 _Agent 34_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 03:00 PM

Cheers Rocket for the photo , but need a LJ crossmember.

That seems a later one ?

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#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 06:02 PM

Yep thats box torry.

25mm down for baby torries IIRC.

Cheers.

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#5 _Agent 34_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 06:58 PM

is there any strengthing needed with the hole so close to the cut away ?

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#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:02 PM

Never done it personally just payed attention.

It does seem awefully close to me to.

The XU-1's never had any strengthening as far as i know, but personally yes i would weld a bit more metal in there.

Cheers.

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#7 limo

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Posted 18 April 2011 - 07:40 PM

the distance centre to centre on my LC XU1 is 5/8" not an inch (25mm)from memory, this was discussed in an old thread
no added strenthening

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#8 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 April 2011 - 03:09 PM

Thanks for that Limo. I'll convert 5"8 of an inch to metric

5/80.625015.8750

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#9 _nemo355v8_

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 11:22 PM

Thanks for that Limo. I'll convert 5"8 of an inch to metric

5/80.625015.8750

16 mm

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#10 red6

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:44 AM

was discussed here

I'm looking at doing this mod on the Lc in the future so annotated a scan of the service bulletin for reference.

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XU-1- Suspension Mod + Measurments.jpg 194.42K 26 downloads

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#11 _2ELCS_

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 09:10 AM

G/day Grant
If you have a look through my build thread, i mooved the top holes down 25 m/m, but i had to add some material. to the edge to strengthen it.

You will probably have to re shape the top bump stop rubber to suit???

Wayne

Edited by 2ELCS, 25 April 2011 - 09:13 AM.

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#12 _Agent 34_

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 08:14 PM

Yep Wayne, d remember you talking about 25 mm and when i measured it on my cross member it was really close to the cut away. i know that you beefed up the cut away and checked the fiv book, im only going to drop it the 16mm and not the full 25mm at this stage. I just need to drill this week ready for the final full front end dropp off for painting next week.

ps cann't be arsed trying to weld a bit in to the cut away at this stage.

thanks for all your help guys.

grant

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#13 S pack

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 10:35 PM

ps cann't be arsed trying to weld a bit in to the cut away at this stage.

thanks for all your help guys.

grant

Hey Grant

If you only lower the holes 5/8" (16mm) as per XU1 spec you won't need to weld on any reinforcing metal.

Bump stop rubbers don't require any modifications either.

Cheers
Dave

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#14 _Agent 34_

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 12:35 PM

Can you still buy these bump rubbers from rares spares.?

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#15 S pack

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:27 PM

Can you still buy these bump rubbers from rares spares.?

Yes, last time I looked recently.

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#16 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 02:14 PM

right check the front end last night and here is the hole + the actual stamp spots around the lower 16mm mark.

I checked and it seems that these spots are random and not is sequence on both sides, it's just seems like it's the joining spot welds.

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the second hole.jpg 49.64K 7 downloads

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#17 S pack

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 04:34 PM

right check the front end last night and here is the hole + the actual stamp spots around the lower 16mm mark.

I checked and it seems that these spots are random and not is sequence on both sides, it's just seems like it's the joining spot welds.

Correct, they are not the centre punch marks you are looking for.
The marks, if they are on your crossmember will be on the outboard side of the mounting tower. Opposite side to that in your picture.

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#18 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 06:53 PM

thanks S pack for the check.

Right, checked the other side, no such marks.

There is however a small indent that responds to the other side punch mark, but it is inline with the indent on the other side. It's obvious that they are done around the drilled hole mark as the two pieces of metal are sandwiched together. The punch marks are obviously there to add strength to the hole and the two separate pieces of metal.

So I'll up load the photos tomorrow to complete the circle of info. Then on the weekend I'm drilling the hole and will upload the photos again.

after this the outcome could be;

if you do the 16mm adjustment then no bumber stop cutting fix
if you do the whole 25mm then you may have to adjust the bumper stop rubber.

grant

then it's off to the spray painter with everything done.

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#19 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 28 April 2011 - 07:40 PM

Haven't seen this topic till now and looking at the heading I thought it was going to be something very Anal. :badabing:

Sorry.

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#20 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:15 PM

update;��well, guys the deed is done and the holes are drilled.��1) firstly there seems to be a slight offset between the front and back holes and by this I mean one is lower than the other, a re look at the figure in the previous diagram shows that the holes are not exactly level.��2) I tried to firstly adjust this as I thought the the guy must have been on the drink after lunch, but i have another " k frame here " and measured it and it's the same.��3) I didn't do the 16mm as I went for the 17mm as there seemed was only about 4mm left in the middle at 16mm so when for the 17mm which gave me 5mm.�� 4) checky checky twice Drilly Drilly once. 5) I hope that i wasn't wrong with the hole offset distance, but the two K frames showed this distance and also the diagram shows one hole lower - so hopefully it's right.

two other photos - didn't turn up in previous post

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17mm holes done.jpg 26.24K 17 downloads
different hole position.jpg 36.91K 17 downloads

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#21 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:20 PM

Ps, the dimple seems to be stamped very close to the actual mark of the 16mm hole and you can see the center punched marks are at 17mm, but the holes down from the top are not exactly the same, it's about 3- 4.5 mm out ?

Red 6 is pretty close and thanks for the info red 6, it helped me when the holes are shown as offset.

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#22 _Liam_

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:39 PM

Are those holes edging in towards the centre of of the X-member?

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#23 _Agent 34_

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Posted 09 May 2011 - 01:36 PM

That photo does seem to be a little in on the right side. hopefully fine though, when centre punching the holes it's nearly right on the " divit " and had to re adjust the centre mark prior to drilling with smaller drill.

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#24 _Macka_

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 09:43 PM

That photo does seem to be a little in on the right side. hopefully fine though, when centre punching the holes it's nearly right on the " divit " and had to re adjust the centre mark prior to drilling with smaller drill.

Grant excuse my ignorance but what does this modification actually do?

Thanks Macka