46 replies to this topic

[zodiac GTR]

I believe it brings the tyres camber inward? Meant to be better response etc.

Would this mod be suitable for street use ( everyday use ) ?

[S pack]

I believe it brings the tyres camber inward? Meant to be better response etc.

Would this mod be suitable for street use ( everyday use ) ?

Yes.

[zodiac GTR]

I believe it brings the tyres camber inward? Meant to be better response etc.

Would this mod be suitable for street use ( everyday use ) ?

Yes.

so would it ride and handle better ?

[Toranamat69]

Will corner better and your tire wear will be improved on both inner and outter edges.

[zodiac GTR]

Will corner better and your tire wear will be improved on both inner and outter edges.

thanks for that, thats answer i was looking for

cheers

[Toranamat69]

It actually raises the roll centre when you lower the UCA mounting point. Lowering the car by changing springs will lower the roll centre - hence why this mod is even more necessary on a lowered car. Using drop stubs lowers the car but leaves the roll centre at the same height above ground but this is still a good mod for cars using drop stubs as the Torana rear roll centre is way to high so it makes them more even front to rear. Roll centre height is all about the weight transfer from the inside wheels to the outside wheels as you take a turn.

As with most things, it does not just change 1 thing when you do something to a suspension setup.

It also gives the car a more agressive (and better in the 70's Holdens case) camber curve which means the change in Camber through the suspension travel is greater to compensate for the car leaning over in a corner and makes the tire sit closer to flat on the road in all conditions - good for handling and tire wear.

Matt

[Toranamat69]

Spot on - good pick - it messes with your head this stuff - quite often you just have to draw a pic.

[axistr]

Good work guys, by installing stiffer lowered springs and anti roll bars, the less static negitive camber you will need. Remember when the VB commodors were released whith 2 1/2 - 3 degrease negitive camber they all stuffed the insides of the tyres even with 5-8mm toe in, so we all had to fit camber kits to correct the fault. Now the VE commodores come out with very little negitive camber, WHY. they combated the problem with better springs,shock and roll bars of course, but one big improvment was even greater positive scrub radious with even more positive caster.

Next time you get to have a look at a BMW or Mercedes benz even an old one and turn the wheel towards lock have a look at how much induced positive camber on the inside wheel and negative camber on the outside wheel, some of these cars run up to 16 degrease positive caster. After all they basicly coppied the BMW E39 suspension and body setup for the VE which has made the new commodores much better cars.

I know we carn't screw heaps of caster on the torie front ends or alter the K.P.I or scrub radious much but adding caster and stiffer front ends including adding more positive caster will help . One of the big problems of the Torana front ends was the lack of positive caster and they realy stuffed up when they used negitive caster on the early models, it had the opposite effect, I know they didn't have power steering and done this to make the steering lighter but the UCs wasn't that heavy and it was at least a step in the right direction.

As you have said it's all about the foot print of the tyre on the road. The better the foot print in all conditions the better handleing, better the tyre wear, better the braking and quicker through the corner and most of all better feel through the steering wheel.

Axistr.

Edited by axistr, 07 June 2011 - 09:21 PM.

[RIM-010]

Can this thread be stickied and/or given a more searchable name? It took me ages to find it through google...

[Potta]

I will probably want to do this in the not too distant future also.

[sibhs]

I had this done to my 2 door "S" about 20 years ago at Wilkinson Suspension in Bayswater. Was very happy with the result and will do it again to my new LJ.
Question: Is it worth welding up the original holes after new ones drilled?

Marty

[RallyRed]

Thanks to all the above info,...I also did this the other day to my LJ.

Found it hard to accurately measure the  holes and the differences..... so no need to get all  techo and stuff ,regarding the difference in the height ,/ difference  of the original holes, just copy whats there and lower it by xx mm. Elecos think WIRES  &  LUGS.

so....

Use a couple of lugs to ensure the centres are correct and consistent .

The first go ,at 25mm looks too close to the edge ( as stated by others)

So take off the blue insulation for 20mm centre to centre.....still too close,

So cut off the barrel section of the lug, now we have appx 16mm centre to centre,....just right....still plenty of meat on the UCA for drilling.

Its not 25, but its easy and practical.

Re use the cut off lugs for the other side to ensure its all the same and balanced left to right.

Now off for a wheel alignment etc.

Thanks to  the advice of forum guys, I'm looking for -4 degrees camber, appx 4 degrees toe out and  "a heap"  of caster.

See how it goes.

 

 

 

 

 

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[Toranamat69]

Hi Col,

 

I haven't actually done it, but from my measurements it looks to me like UC upper control arms will go on an LC/J to get you that extra caster you are chasing.

 

Matt

[rodomo]

So the electrical terminals are there to connect the polarizer?

[UCgazman]

No, they're for the flux capacitor....