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Dry sump 308 Holden exercise !

Started by _rocket_ , May 08 2011 07:18 PM

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86 replies to this topic

#51 _rocket_

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 03:31 PM

gday rocket. from the people iv spoken to and stuff iv read, if you can go with a crank drive that has a hub bolted to the balancer, not the 6 inch bolt like you said. iv heard when using the long bolt, due to the amount of load on it (dry sump drive with lots of washers and holding a balancer to the crank), they flex and are prone to break.
so if you find out about the bullet cylinder head version can you please pass on some info.

Will do Ozy, I sent an email to mark at BDG to get a price on just the spacers etc, because I have the gears, but havent had a reply as yet.I dont think the bullet 1 is going to work, because it doesnt come off the front of the crank far enough to pick up the pump gear, so next step is to contact Perkins, to see if they have anything, or can suggest which way to go from here. Ideally , a billet of alloy machined into the correct shape & size is the go, but the cost would be the killer.When I have it all going & sorted, Ill list all the parts, costs & pics for the next person that wants to do the conversion.

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#52 _rorym_

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 06:32 PM

My machinist can do that I think and it wont cost a mint.
R

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#53 _rocket_

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Posted 22 May 2011 - 06:50 PM

My machinist can do that I think and it wont cost a mint.
R

Thanks Rory, let me see how it goes with the others, then Ill make a decision.

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#54 YELLAcakeu308

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 11:08 AM

how much was the megaphone?, did you have to get fabricated or can you buy them of the shelf?

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#55 _rocket_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 11:40 AM

I paid $600 for it about 5 yrs ago, but have seen them on ebay for about the same, and I think its the same guy making them in melbourne.

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#56 _The Baron_

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Posted 23 May 2011 - 05:55 PM

Hi Rod,

I have just come from Bullet Cylinder Heads (08) 8261 8813 where I have been speaking with Darren regarding your drive needs. He thinks he can help but he has a number of questions for you regarding the existing setup and the other things that will need to be driven as well (water pump/alternator, etc).

Darren was also a bit miffed about the lack of communications but try the number above again tomorrow. They have been away some though.

Mind you they need to move the entrance sign on the building

Cheers

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#57 _rocket_

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Posted 26 May 2011 - 07:40 PM

Thanks Baron, sorry for the delay, been away with work again. I will give them a call this week.
Cheers Rod.

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#58 _rocket_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 07:24 AM

Some pics from the other day.

And more

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#59 _rocket_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 07:27 AM

and more

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#60 _rocket_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 07:31 AM

not real clear, from my mobile ph. camera

+1

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#61 _rogered_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 10:22 AM

Not sure if you have mentioned or not, as i have yet to read this full thread.
I like to use an oberg screen filter , in-front of the spin-on filter (but beware, not instead of !!!!)
My preferance is not for filters on the scavange lines (slightly controversal)

With the oberg, you can pull and inspect the screens, for any signs of metal or debris is the oil, prior to a doing any major damage in a lot of cases.
After the initial startup and run in period you will be stunned by the amount of rubbish on the screens.
after run in period, and new oil, it will tend to run clean, so when, any say bearing metal, shows up you will see this straight away.

mine has earned its keep a couple of times

Hope this helps

Cheers

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#62 _rogered_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 10:27 AM

Oh and also
Mocal make an oilstat which which works the same as a thermostate.
Basicly bypasses the cooler uptil oil is up to temp. and maintains a constant temp (above 100Deg so as to cause any moisture to convert to steam)
I use 14lts oil so can take a while to heat up and control

Just something to think about Posted Image

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#63 _rocket_

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 03:39 PM

Oh and also
Mocal make an oilstat which which works the same as a thermostate.
Basicly bypasses the cooler uptil oil is up to temp. and maintains a constant temp (above 100Deg so as to cause any moisture to convert to steam)
I use 14lts oil so can take a while to heat up and control

Just something to think about

Thanks Rogered for the tips mate, all very much appreciated, as this is my 1st attempt.I have seen those oberg filters on ebay,and a few friends with dry sump cars run them, so must be good. I have a few inline screens to catch bits & pieces, but I need to get the rock catchers x 3 where the lines meet the sump, to catch anything before it gets to the pump.Ill run the big nascar filter up front and another as it comes out of the tank at the back, cover all bases.
The tank has a heater, but is 110 volt US style, so need a transformer to convert.Probably plug it in the night before to warm the oil, then a quick blast at the track in the morning, and it should be good ?

Edited by rocket, 27 May 2011 - 03:41 PM.

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#64 _rocket_

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:04 PM

Well I have managed to get a bit more done today, mainly just making up braided lines and a few brackets, 1 for the oil filter up front, and a kevlar patch from where the fan box was along the firewall, still have to make a cover for the holes where the -16 lines go through the firewall.

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#65 _rocket_

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:07 PM

Pics are from my phone, so not to clear.

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#66 _rocket_

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 02:10 PM

+

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#67 Struggler

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Posted 05 June 2011 - 08:56 PM

Love the firing order on the radiator support !!

Those rubber block off caps on the thermostat housing and water pump are notorious for failing, rip them off and tap the aluminium to 1/4 NPT and plug 'em up.

Will those standard valve covers with one gasket clear your rockers ? Just something to check (in case you haven't yet) before you fire the beast up !

Good luck with it !!

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#68 _rocket_

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Posted 13 June 2011 - 08:22 PM

Thanks Andrew, will take a look at that. I have turned it over and nothing hits, I think I ran 2 gaskets on the last engine because of that.I havent done anything on it for a week, been away with work.Have a few fittings to chase up to finish the oil lines, then still the crank drive.Still have a few months till the masters, but would be nice to take it to QR or Lakeside for so laps before hand.

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#69 _rocket_

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 05:23 AM

Well I finally got the pulley drive I have been waiting for, picked it up from the machinist yesterday.It bolts straight onto the balancer and does away with the original waterpump & alt. pulley, and is under driven to save both of these at constant high revs.I ll fit this over the next week or so, then buy some new belts, toothed type for the dry sump pump, and a shorter one from the water pump, also need a washer on both sides of the gear and about 6mm bigger in diameter than the gear, as a guide to keep the belt on.

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#70 AbsynthHatch

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 09:58 PM

That is a nice piece of hardware mate, do you run a tensioner?

I will give you a call when I start to build my sump for a few pointers

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#71 _rocket_

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 05:38 AM

Thanks Mark, it does look pretty neat. With the sump, I made templates in cardboard of all the pieces from the original sump of the Jack Brabham A9X kubota 4 door, that Ian Kell lent me last year, it will take a while to make, but looks the goods, just wish I had it on my car over the years.On a different note, below is a couple of Torana vids from Speed on Tweed I have just loaded last night.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=In2OUDyl-6c