Tuxedo Black LH SLR 5000
#451
Posted 08 April 2012 - 09:36 PM
We even have golden gunboot awards!!!
http://en.m.wikipedi.../Golden_Gumboot
#452
Posted 11 April 2012 - 11:26 PM
#453
Posted 12 April 2012 - 09:59 PM
#454
Posted 12 April 2012 - 10:34 PM
Good luck with it and looking forward to seeing how turns out.
If it helps I blasted my diff recently outside of the cabinet and that media really does some damage to hands and bounces back like crazy. Gloves, arm and face protection is a must...oh, and you'll be washing it out of your hair and ears for a while
Finally, if you haven't yet, you might want to also put something hard behind the taped over sections in your firewall and chassis rails - the stuff will penetrate it easey-peasey.
Keep us posted please.
Cheers, TB
#455
Posted 12 April 2012 - 10:40 PM
I should just back this bloody thing out and use this bubble!!!
#456 _V6 UC_
Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:24 AM
#457
Posted 25 April 2012 - 05:15 PM
#458 _Liam_
Posted 25 April 2012 - 05:58 PM
Looks great mate keep at it.
#459
Posted 25 April 2012 - 06:55 PM
I tell you what though.... the bay will be MINT, considering how good it looks just in bare metal!
Tell me more about the Mini bubble... what's the go with that? How do you get into it, and inflate it?
#460
Posted 25 April 2012 - 07:38 PM
Pretty much getting over dealing with this engine bay. Panel work is just not my thing. I'm almost close to just throwing a cover over the car and walking away from it for a few months....
What went wrong Brad?
It looks pretty good to me - how did you go with the sandblaster?
Did it work as hoped and are you still finding crap everywhere, or did you revert to the wire wheel?
Regardless, I think your efforts looks great - well done.
When does the primer go on?
Just an aside - I see you've taped up your tags to protect them - when it comes to painting them maybe consider using Humbrol Maskol from your friendly local model shop. I have used it on a few tasks and it is brilliant - a brush on latex covering that peels off after use, withstands overspray and has an application period of three days from memory. If you need longer just peel it and brush on again.
There is likely an automotive equivalent out there just I am not aware of it and regardless find the Maskol to do the job very well.
Cheers, TB
#461
Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:09 PM
Being so fussy is just a friggen pain in the ass mate... I just cant bring my self to do a half assed job... It would keep me up at night.... So frustrating... Look at whats happened with that red car.... Im to scared to drive it...
Had no problems with the bay, I just dont like panel work... Its all gone well though, all the paints come off, Ive taken any old bog off, all the surface rust is gone. No nasty surprises underneath. The sand blaster gave me the shits cause the coarse grit I used the 2nd time round kept of blocking it up. So yeah I just went back to using a stripper wheel, sandpaper and what ever else I could find like my nana's false teeth!!!!
Going to skim a few spots with bog (bonnet hinge repair patches) then go over the metal with deoxidne, then once thats off prepsol and hit it with White Kight SLS etch primer. I guess Ill need some type of spray putty to cove some of the pitted areas of metal?
Nice tip with that Maskol stuff. Ill check the local hobby shop out. Thanks for that one.
#462
Posted 25 April 2012 - 09:20 PM
#463
Posted 25 April 2012 - 09:24 PM
#464
Posted 25 April 2012 - 10:32 PM
#465
Posted 26 April 2012 - 12:15 PM
Love the attention to detail and the high standard of workmanship.
Cheers Mick.
#466
Posted 26 April 2012 - 12:51 PM
What sort of stripper wheel did you use? I've been using a 4 inch 3M strip disk and it doesn't seem to be lasting long and they are about $9 each. Wondering if a wire wheel on the engine bay might be a better option
This one here did a great job of cleaning up any left over surface rust!
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Norton-Rapid-Strip-Disc-100mm-x-12mm.aspx?pid=119752#Description
Thanks for your comments Mick. A bog stock SL/R isnt everyones cup of tea, but it would be a boring world if we all had 355 LH/LX's...
#467
Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:51 PM
#468
Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:23 PM
#469
Posted 27 April 2012 - 10:24 PM
have you fitted the mylar to your screens yet?
following your thread closely
don,t stress your,s is one of the best!
patience is a virtue
and your attention to detail
is just something else!
keep up the good work
please reply
cheers davemc
p.s
your nearlly there
#470
Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:44 PM
Anyways, had to skim a bit of bog around in the engine bay to cover up the welds from rust repairs from behind the bonnet hinges. Also a little skimmed over the passenger side guard. Funny, looks like its had a few dents pulled from there? Like maybe its had a little hit on that side? But only just minor? I thought maybe a wheel fell off or something? Balljoint failure?
Its got SLS etch primer down on the bare metal then I removed that back to bare in places where the filler needed to be applied.
Decided to leave the plates on
That was rubbed back then I hit the entire lot with a high fill primer. Been using all PPG products.
And now Ive started on the seam sealer. This stuff would quite honestly be the WORST product I have ever had to use. Extremely difficult to work with, I was starting to thing that perhaps I had a faulty product???
Im hoping that I may get some colour on tomorrow. See how I go.
Oh, and fitted some low performance brake rotors to.
Edited by hanra, 06 May 2012 - 08:52 PM.
#471
Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:49 PM
have you fitted the mylar to your screens yet?
Hey mate, No I havnt as yet... Thinking about paying a pro to do it?
#472
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:28 PM
Nice progress. Nice smooth, yet original engine bay lines. Keep it up mate.
#473
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:33 PM
#474
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:57 PM
#475 _mick74lh_
Posted 06 May 2012 - 10:12 PM
That stuff was NO WHERE near what I thought it was going to be like... I was thinking a viscosity of perhaps windsreen sealant..??? I could barely get any out of the tube with my caulking gun... it was so thick and just extremely difficult to work with... Used a wet rag to try and spread it. Ive never come across anything like it... pain in the bum.
Is there a reason why you couldn't or shouldn't just use Sikaflex for this kind of job?
Hey nice job too by the way. It may be tedious but the results are awesome.
Edited by mick74lh, 06 May 2012 - 10:13 PM.
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