Tuxedo Black LH SLR 5000
#901 _V6 UC_
Posted 25 November 2012 - 11:38 PM
#902 _LH8VD69_
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:25 AM
#903
Posted 26 November 2012 - 07:38 AM
#904
Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:50 AM
You will not like those 13” wheels if you’ve ever driven one with 14’s... looks, drives, steers and handles unbelievable better, a completely different car altogether... not original though. ..... Regards
#905
Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:09 AM
#906
Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:13 AM
You’ve done an awesome top job Brad.... congratulate yourself !!!
You will not like those 13” wheels if you’ve ever driven one with 14’s... looks, drives, steers and handles unbelievable better, a completely different car altogether... not original though. ..... Regards
Hey Peter! Good to see your still around on here! If your still in Cairns, it would be great to go out on a cruise one day! No 100klm stretches though..... as you pointed out.... I dont think the baby 13's will like the highway driving!!!
#907
Posted 26 November 2012 - 02:24 PM
#908
Posted 26 November 2012 - 05:08 PM
Edited by hanra, 26 November 2012 - 05:09 PM.
#909
Posted 26 November 2012 - 07:55 PM
The brake shop re-sleeved the prop valve on its second visit there, as the first visit there after being overhauled, it was leaking out the warning switch hole.
To me it seems the piston is stuck.... It should reset back to centre when the warning switch is removed, correct????
It's looking like I've gotta pull the f ucking thing back off again for the 3rd time. F uck me......
#910
Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:11 PM
#911
Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:51 PM
Now this ones done what's next.
#912
Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:54 PM
Now this ones done what's next.
Something American!!!
#913 _fatlh5000_
Posted 27 November 2012 - 08:49 AM
AWESOME mate... a great car and an equally brilliant build thread.
Thank you !!!! It has been great to watch and see it come together.
#914
Posted 27 November 2012 - 08:24 PM
To me it seems the piston is stuck.... It should reset back to centre when the warning switch is removed, correct????
To answer your question..Yes it should reset..
Edited by Obey 1, 27 November 2012 - 08:30 PM.
#915
Posted 27 November 2012 - 08:54 PM
Yeah the only way I could reset it was to open the rear brake bleeder and pump the pedal. The lack of pressure on the rear side of the piston allowed the front line pressure to push the piston back into position. Dosnt seem correct to me.... I guess that's why I pay the experts to fix these things.
#916 _Viper_
Posted 27 November 2012 - 11:08 PM
Edited by Viper, 27 November 2012 - 11:09 PM.
#917
Posted 27 November 2012 - 11:33 PM
Something American!!!
Hope it's a fixer upper so we can enjoy another build thread.
#918
Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:04 AM
My $600 front bumper bar isnt looking to flash after being bolted up for almost a week.....
Anyone else ever had this type of issue? Its cracking around the upper mounting bolt. It was torqued up to spec. None of the other 11 bolts have given any problems. I will have to send the bumper back I would assume... $100 down $100 back... and what ever other costs are involved to repair.....
Edited by hanra, 28 November 2012 - 08:05 AM.
#919
Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:44 AM
#920
Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:08 AM
I thought Id win that 70mill or what ever it was.... but Im still at work today...
#921
Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:37 AM
And plastic??? Sealing up my doors. So messy...
Great job thus far you have done, may I ask what sealer you used on the plastic?
#922
Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:46 AM
I used the same goop I used for the windscreen. It never actually dries. Its always sticky... Ill have to check the brand.
#923
Posted 28 November 2012 - 11:04 AM
#924
Posted 29 November 2012 - 03:11 PM
My $600 front bumper bar isnt looking to flash after being bolted up for almost a week.....
Anyone else ever had this type of issue? Its cracking around the upper mounting bolt. It was torqued up to spec. None of the other 11 bolts have given any problems. I will have to send the bumper back I would assume... $100 down $100 back... and what ever other costs are involved to repair.....
Spoken to the Electroplater, as expected, I was blamed for over tightening. I used an annually calibrated torque wrench and tightened the mount bolts up to 25ft/lb as per the GMH Workshop manual.
Apparently the plater always advises customers to only do these bolts up finger tight, then apply loctite to the threads to avoid this exact issue. I was never advised this verbally or via email, which he agreed with. So how am I supposed to know otherwise... I do things by the book.
In the end, he has agreed to cover the costs of re-plating, I will have to wear the costs of freight. It was $185 to get both bars here. Will be interesting to see what it costs to send one bar down/back.....
And of course he is flat strap over Xmas and expects a delay in getting the bar turned around. This sort of thing is pushing me over the edge.
Edited by hanra, 29 November 2012 - 03:12 PM.
#925
Posted 29 November 2012 - 05:40 PM
So what's the difference between the original chrome plating and the ones you just got, surly if he job was done properly it wouldn't have cracked.
Is there any ex- workers from GMH on here or anyone know someone that had anything to do with the bumpers back then to shed some light on te difference.
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