1672 replies to this topic

[A9X]

What are you trying to say ???

[eyepeeler]

What are you trying to say ???

Would I have done the LS engine or Holden 5 Litre, probably the 5 Litre as it would have been good enough for street and as its a race car I went as big as the rules allowed.
I love the engine you screwed together for your car, those webers look the bit.
I wouldn't have gone for such big brakes on a street car, diff and the parts going into it would be the same.
I guess that they way I drive I don't need real fancy stuff for a street car, a 5 Litre and a Salisbury diff would be all I need.
Wasn't trying to say anything but I don't think the parts I am putting into this race car would have made it into a street car if that's what I was building.

[A9X]

just ribbin' ya.

 

keep going...

[dattoman]

Both of you keep going

[eyepeeler]

Worked on the drivers side rear flares this morning. I promised my lad that I would get home by 2pm to help him build his toy race car that he got for his birthday. That is done and now waiting on the glue to dry. So, the flares, I got a far as cutting the guard and putting in the nutserts.

 

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You can see that I had a pencil line to cut to. I decided that I would not got that far to start with.

I decided not to go any more as it looked ok and the closer I got the more the panel wanted to pull in.

 

 

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Ready to fill the gaps, cut the door and do a small amount of rust removal next time.

 

[308 Sunbird]

Awesome-love it.

[eyepeeler]

Cheers Stuart.

Awesome-love it.

[Ice]

Just stick a set of number plates on it craig and drive it on the street
easy fix

[eyepeeler]

You never know Gene, you may see it......

 

Just stick a set of number plates on it craig and drive it on the street
easy fix

[eyepeeler]

Hey Craig... Maybe fit your diff and sit it on the bump stops and either fit your intended wheels/tyres or if you know the tyre diameter just measure from the centerline of the diff tube to see if the tyres are going to srub...

I had my guards cut out years ago by a workshop but they didnt cut high enough, Even after fitting some slightly smaller diameter tyres and taking the Torry for a few test runs its rubbing... now im going to have to go back and cut more out :( This time im going to cut about 10mm shy of the mounting holes.

Yours as it is looks to be higher then mine is atm but still thought I might pass on my experience...

With your nutsert/nutsert gun, Did you find all the nutserts pull up with the threaded hole perfectly in the center or is it sort of random and sometimes offset to one side? When I did mine im not sure if it was a cheapy gun or what but they seemed random. wasnt really a problem as the holes in the flares had enough play but yea Id like to find a gun that does a better job..

Hey Clint, thanks for the thoughts, I did think about that when doing the other side ages ago, measured it up and it should be ok. Time will tell though!!

The nutsert pliers I used are nothing special, they pulled up in the centre ok, it was only out if the pilot hole and drill bits after that were off. I did stuff up the top nutsert on the door flare, as it is right at the top of the wheel arch or the door, it has to go through the wheel arch sheetmetal as well. I drilled through both the outer skin and wheel arch metal from the outside, and in doing that over sized the outer hole!
Should have drilled from either side after doing the pilot hole. I fixed it by putting the nutsert in anyway and tack welded it in from the wheel arch side. Worked out ok in the end.

Where do you have your workshop?? Would like to catch up sometime.

Edited by eyepeeler, 22 September 2013 - 02:23 PM.

[eyepeeler]

A race car with highly superior suspension/brakes/occupant safety/etc is far to dangerous for the street.....The gubberment says so!!!
 
Keep up the good work.
 
Cheers.

Hi Bomber, politics and modified cars, now there's a match made in heaven....Don't think so!!
Since doing the passenger door I am going to finish the fab work then tackle the whole car with the paint and filler.
My mate who is doing the Monaro used the primer under the car that you told me to use and it came up a treat. He has now painted over it in white, looks good.

[LS1LX]

Grab your self an oxy and heat the inner guard up to work the metal, don't cut slits in the metal. It will be a lot quicker and neater

Edited by LS1LX, 22 September 2013 - 04:03 PM.

[eyepeeler]

Grab your self an oxy and heat the inner guard up to work the metal, don't cut slits in the metal. It will be a lot quicker and neater

Didn't think of that approach, will give that a go one night this week.

[eyepeeler]

Thanks LS1LX top idea. It's much faster and looks a whole heap neater. I would definitely recommend doing it this way.

 

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That's as far as I am going with the welder. I am going to seal it up later.

 

Now I will cut the front guards and cut back the seam that has been talked about earlier.

[bullitA9X]

Looking sweet craig where did ya buy ya flare kit from and what did it cost mate...

[eyepeeler]

Hi Daryl,  I got the flares from Wilsons Fibreglass before he sold the molds to Ernicks.

I don't know what Ernicks charge but this is the breakdown of what Wilson's charged.

Flares front and rear:     $278

Front 2 piece spoiler:     $123

Engine hood scoop:      $124

Rear bob tail a spoiler:  $138

Those prices included freight to from Sydney to Perth.

 

I bought a spare set of Flares off him as well as the ones fitted in the pictures, never know who's going to bang into me on the track!!

Thanks for the comments, I'm stoked the oxy went well when doing the guard. No brainer that one.

 

Well done on your A9X, looks really tough on the road, the pics in the HTC topic look great. Looks like a great cruise as well, was it a good BBQ??

Looking sweet craig where did ya buy ya flare kit from and what did it cost mate...

[eyepeeler]

Oh, by the way, Wilsons had all the socket head bolts, nyloc nuts, washers and flare rubber included as well in the costs I gave you. 

 

Looking sweet craig where did ya buy ya flare kit from and what did it cost mate...

[eyepeeler]

Looked at the drivers front guard tonight. I marked up the cut outs, took the flare off and took to it with the cutting disc and flap disc. The easy one to see is the top of the wheel arch, I also took the corners off on either side of the lower section.

I also cut back the seam that at the rear of the wheel arch and seam welded it back up. Got a bit of flame going on as the sealer in behind it caught fire!! Not to bad, it was only a flame the size of a candle flame.

 

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Tomorrow night I will do the same to the other side.

 

[eyepeeler]

Other side now done, Cut the guard as well, no photo of that yet.

 

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[eyepeeler]

I was going through the thread and this post is rather ominous!! I'm half way to achieving the same, a 5 year build. And here I was thinking it would be a 12 month build!!!

How little did I know........  

haha mines finished after 5 years of grief i can sit back and watch you now.
gez your using some pretty serious stuff you make mine look like a 202 auto and a column shift at that lol.
hope you have fun i contemplated racing in that category but its way out of my league id be getting lapped on the first lap.
just try not to bang her up too badly it gets pretty serious from what ive seen.we want to keep the 5 of the same rare parts on ebay

[fatslr]

Excellent work Craig only a couple of years to go lol

Inspiring to see the effort your going to hopefully will get to check it out in the flesh one day