1672 replies to this topic

[eyepeeler]

Spent the day down at work on the car but not all of it was working on the car. Got1UR1 and Green Taxi came over to say g'day, was good to catch up with them. I also had a 2 other visitors who are into Torana's. Spent a bit of time shooting the breeze talking stuff which was nice. Green Taxi also helped me a bit with the drivers window glass which was nice.

So today I got 3 of the 4 door glass in, I only have the front passenger to fit now. It all went in ok, just have to follow a methodical order. Like I found out that fitting the window belts in the rear door after the glass has gone in isn't going to happen. So out comes the window, fit the 2 belts, put the glass in and then slide the divider down. Works easy enough if you follow steps. 

 

 

In the 3rd photo I have put 2 arrows on the picture. The smaller arrow shows where I relocated the door handle to when I realized it was going to clash with the roll cage.

What I didn't think about was the window winding mechanism. As you can see below the larger arrow is the arms for the winder and they travel right across where the wire rod that connects the door handle and door catch goes. I only realized it when the window would not travel up very well and come out of the bailey channel. The wire rod wasn't a problem when the window was down but caught on the arms as the window was wound up.

When I took the door handle off and I adjusted the window winder the window now travels up and down smoothly.

Now I have to relocate the door handle to another spot.

 

 

 

 

 

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[Ice]

I want to see rubber on this thing Craig

[eyepeeler]

Here you go Gene, just a teaser.

[Ice]

Cool very period correct Craig
Some race livery will make that car cant wait

[eyepeeler]

Solution to inner door handle clashing with window mechanism.

I had to extend the wire rod as it was to short.


Fits in nicely


Glass all done now as well

[Racehatch]

Hey Craig,

 

What wheel/tyre sizes are you running (sorry if I missed it earlier?)

 

cheers,

 

Sam

[eyepeeler]

Hey Craig,
 
What wheel/tyre sizes are you running (sorry if I missed it earlier?)
 
cheers,
 
Sam

Hey Sam, rim size is 16x8 and fit a 225 45 tyre. Is that that you run??

[eyepeeler]

I have been looking at different stuff on the Summit Racing website, one of which was exhaust kits. As I am planning to build my own system I am not sure which way I want to go yet.

 

A bit of talk on benefits of 4-1 or 2-1 merge collectors would be good. I am leaning towards 4-1 but space could be an issue.

Let me know your thoughts.

[N/A-PWR]

Here is a Read Craig:-

 

https://www.google.c...h-torana.com.au

http://www.gmh-toran...tition-exhaust/

[eyepeeler]

Thanks Dave, not a bad thread. Will have to read it a few time for it to all sink in.

All dimension and configuration ideas aside, this YouTube 6 part video is really good on how to build one.

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=ridE6PiN5H0

[Racehatch]

Hey Sam, rim size is 16x8 and fit a 225 45 tyre. Is that that you run??

 

Yeah cool, the tyres in your pic looked a bit bigger - I'm running the same rim (superlite) 8 inch - been running the 215/50 but will try the 225/45 (the 225 is actually 2mm narrower..lol) 

Edited by Racehatch, 21 April 2014 - 10:56 PM.

[eyepeeler]

Another day taking it slowly, having my lad with me means I am riveting and tek screwing sheet metal together making stuff. Not really car stuff.
I fitted up the bonnet, the gaps are a bit how ya going, but will do. Fitted tail lights, painted light surrounds and painted rear bumper mounts.

[eyepeeler]

Only a couple of hours today, got the grille painted black, started cleaning up the trailing arms ready to paint.

[fatslr]

Good work mate coming together nicely

[eyepeeler]

Pulled apart the steering rack to clean it up.
Pretty simple inside.
Stripped the lock nut threads getting the ball housing off. Have to fix that.

[dattoman]

Kit31K

[a9x868]

looking great craig

[eyepeeler]

Cleaned up these bits, no problem.
Welby to the rescue and I have a re-build kit in hand.

[Ice]

Hey craig are you going to box in the trailing arms

Or is that a no no

[N/A-PWR]

Box them in I recon too,

don't get those expensive adjustable ones, the fastening Nut can come loose from twisting and then lose control of the body twist. Dave I

[eyepeeler]

Hey craig are you going to box in the trailing arms Or is that a no no

  

Box them in I recon too,
don't get those expensive adjustable ones, the fastening Nut can come loose from twisting and then lose control of the body twist. Dave I

  
Not a bad idea Gene and Dave, but rules won't allow it. Below is rule 9.10

REAR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS: Devices for the lateral location of the rear wheels on vehicles with a live axle, and any associated brackets on the body, are free. Brackets may be welded to the body. All other components which have any function in the location of the rear wheels must be retained unmodified except for bushings, which must comply with 9.3 above. Drive flanges, trunnions, hubs, stub axles and wheel bearings are free. It is permissible to add additional longitudinal rear suspension arms provided that all bushings are elastomeric and that the mounting points on the body only involve the addition of metal, save for a single hole per arm of maximum diameter 25mm.

It's the bit about all other components and being unmodified.

..Are those stencils to paint the numbers on the side of the car ?

Not quite Jeff, they are for work stuff. My lad Fraser laid them out as that is what they are doing in school at the moment. It's great to have him around whilst I work on that car, even though not much gets done at times.

[N/A-PWR]

Rules are Rules, and they can be broken,

but it did say about longitudinal rear suspension arms ( couldn't boxed trailing arms be them ). Dave I

[eyepeeler]

Rules are Rules, and they can be broken,
but it did say about longitudinal rear suspension arms ( couldn't boxed trailing arms be them ). Dave I

Now your onto something Dave. I have got brackets welded onto the diff for that very reason.
I am going to make the top arm redundant by having sponge bushes, run the lower arms as original and build a 3rd link arm that will follow the line of the tail shaft.
That arm will be made from SHS.
Lateral location done by watts link.

[N/A-PWR]

Wow Craig,

you have done it, well Done. Dave I