1672 replies to this topic

[eyepeeler]

Wow Craig,
you have done it, well Done. Dave I

LOL smart arse...
But seriously, your right though, gotta use what you can within in rules. And interpretation is a mine field.

[N/A-PWR]

You get the Credit Craig,

you had beat us to the Rules without knowing. Dave I

Now, we wonder the next obstacle hmm.

[eyepeeler]

I have cleaned up all the part of the steering rack, came up well. There is one part that is broken and I'm not sure where it goes or what it is. It was broken before I pulled it apart as there were lumpy bits in the grease from inside the housing.

This is part of the broken bit.

[Bart]

That's a million dollar look right there

Here you go Gene, just a teaser.

[76lxhatch]

The broken bit is the bush from the left end of the housing

[bullitA9X]

wow frOcking wow craig just caught up on your progress mate awesome job so far and the best bit about this build that i love is your having a go and doing it yourself cant wait to see it finished mate and im sure you cant either lol...

[eyepeeler]

Painted the tube in between the cast ally sections, makes it look pretty.


Bought some black felt and trimmed the door card myself, came up good me thinks.
Will show the steps I did later.

[N/A-PWR]

Once again, another Quality Interior Job Craig,

and you will be able to call your Torana a Sleeper. Dave I

good looking Steering Rack Housing too

[eyepeeler]

Front door done, haven't clipped window winder on as I need to do the door locks yet. Which means door card off.

[eyepeeler]

The broken bit is the bush from the left end of the housing

  
Thanks for that, the passenger side the replacement will go.

wow frOcking wow craig just caught up on your progress mate awesome job so far and the best bit about this build that i love is your having a go and doing it yourself cant wait to see it finished mate and im sure you cant either lol...

Really appreciate the comment Daryl, and your spot on, I can't wait to get it finished.
I'm doing a lot of finishing off jobs at the moment, need to get onto the engine again soon and fit the fly wheel clutch etc, make exhaust header, plumb the engine up, measure up tail shaft, manufacture 3rd link, manufacture watts link mounts,........
Gee the light down the tunnel just got a bit smaller LOL.

[ls2lxhatch]

Superpro sell the steering rack bush if you haven't already found one.

http://www.superpro....00556&vid=29528

 

You can also buy reproduction steering rack bearings from Rare Spares.

http://www.rarespare...product=VS15115

 

[eyepeeler]

Cut the basic shape.

Spray contact adhesive on the face of the door card and stick the felt to it and trim to the shape of the card.


Spray the edges with contact adhesive.


Fold the felt over and down.


Job done

[eyepeeler]

Putting the steering rack back together,
How tight should I do the tie rod ball housing up??

[eyepeeler]

Covered the dash pad in the same felt as the door cards, happy with results.

[eyepeeler]

The broken bit is the bush from the left end of the housing

  

Superpro sell the steering rack bush if you haven't already found one.
http://www.superpro....00556&vid=29528
 
You can also buy reproduction steering rack bearings from Rare Spares.
http://www.rarespare...product=VS15115

Thanks for the info, I used a superpro bush down that end, it slotted in the groove nicely.
I got a kit from A9X (Welby) which I have to replace, emailed Datto about that, will organise with him for the kit.

[ls2lxhatch]

Two pages from the Gregory's LH-LX manual.

 

https://cache.gmh-to...eringrack01.jpg

 

https://cache.gmh-to...eringrack02.jpg

[orangeLJ]

You might want to look at stapling or pining that felt on the door trims. The contact adhesive won't hold it long term on its own. And there's nothing worse than floppy edges lol

[eyepeeler]

You might want to look at stapling or pining that felt on the door trims. The contact adhesive won't hold it long term on its own. And there's nothing worse than floppy edges lol

Have you experienced this before?
I will look at staples if that's the case.
Thanks for the heads up.

[eyepeeler]

Two pages from the Gregory's LH-LX manual.

https://cache.gmh-to...eringrack01.jpg

https://cache.gmh-to...eringrack02.jpg

Hi Andy, I have been using that same book for information. I should have explained it a bit more as I did know of that method with the pull test on the tie rod. I was just wondering if anyone had employed another method of checking the pre load.

[76lxhatch]

The contact adhesive won't hold it long term on its own.

It should do, that's all that holds the headlining and that's under tension

Hi Andy, I have been using that same book for information. I should have explained it a bit more as I did know of that method with the pull test on the tie rod. I was just wondering if anyone had employed another method of checking the pre load.

That's really the only way, counting turns or something like that won't give consistent results. Can get them pretty good by feel if you don't have a spring gauge (they are cheap enough though), still better than guessing.

[N/A-PWR]

As You all know,

you put contact cement, on both parts to stick together, and wait till they both are tacky, then contact them, Bingo. Dave I

[eyepeeler]

I got 1 lb on the steering rack.
I got 4 lb on the tie rod.

[eyepeeler]

Had a few issues with some parts I bought way back early in the build, only just realised the mistake. I will fill you in later on that one.

So with no parts no bolt up to the engine I fitted the reservoirs for the pedal set I have.

[N/A-PWR]

Looks Level Craig,

Neat Job, and looking forward to the next addition. Dave I