1672 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Yes if the cotter pin thread is hardened properly

They're not usually very good in that respect. Originals had a spring washer

[eyepeeler]

Throttle Body arrived today. 95mm bore.
How cool does that look.

[eyepeeler]

Trying to thread the needle, LOL.
This is going to get interesting.




The passenger side looks like it will be a tad easier!!

[eyepeeler]

Hi mate,
Make sure you have enough room between the upper control arm and the extractors.
With a Torana running A050 tyres. you'll need 4.5 - 5.0 degrees of negative camber which moves the upper control arm a lot closer to the pipes. (Up to 6 deg with some tyres)
I can see from the pics that you have it currently set with hardly any camber.
Passenger side looks OK, hard to tell from the pics, but the driver's side might be an issue.
Probably pay to dummy it up with a lot of camber.
 
Cheers
Paul

 
Cheers Paul, will certainly look at that before going much further. Appreciate the tip.
How are you going? Your car going well? I watch the YouTube stuff you post off and on, keeps me motivated.


 

If you need anyone to test it out, it would look pretty nice on my Edelbrock intake I suppose

Haha Jeff, It would look super tough on your manifold.

[eyepeeler]

Continuing the puzzle.
First 2 are tacked to flange, now for the second 2.

[eyepeeler]

Hi mate,
Make sure you have enough room between the upper control arm and the extractors.
With a Torana running A050 tyres. you'll need 4.5 - 5.0 degrees of negative camber which moves the upper control arm a lot closer to the pipes. (Up to 6 deg with some tyres)
I can see from the pics that you have it currently set with hardly any camber.
Passenger side looks OK, hard to tell from the pics, but the driver's side might be an issue.
Probably pay to dummy it up with a lot of camber.
 
Cheers
Paul

Hey Paul,
Thanks for the tip. Will keep the rear of the upper arm as free as I can when snaking the pipes past there.
I see Peter is bringing his red Torana out of retirement, great news.
I really need to push this thing along and get out there myself. Been long enough, 36 bloody pages on this thread!!

[Racehatch]

Looks good Craig, watch the starter motor, you may need to make a heat shield or wrap the pipes in that area as I have had issues with mine getting hot due to heat soak. Have you worked out what you are going to do with the muffler yet? 

 

BTW who did you end up getting the Jerico through again, I want to upgrade mine from the 4 to 5 speed...

[eyepeeler]

Nearly there with pipe number 3.
1 more cut and it should be ready to fully tack.
Bit hard to see in the photos now.

[eyepeeler]

Looks good Craig, watch the starter motor, you may need to make a heat shield or wrap the pipes in that area as I have had issues with mine getting hot due to heat soak. Have you worked out what you are going to do with the muffler yet? 
 
BTW who did you end up getting the Jerico through again, I want to upgrade mine from the 4 to 5 speed...

Hey Sam, hope you had a good Christmas.
Yeah the heat from the pipes will be a massive concern, I am going to get them coated and wrap what I can to minimise the heat transfer.

The Jerico came direct from Jerico in North Carolina. I emailed and spoke to Scott, but that was a few years back, LOL.
The number I used to ring the was 0011 1 704 782 4343

I can email you the work order I filled out for them to manufacture my gearbox if you like??
I can also share the invoice if you need a point of reference for price.

[Bigfella237]

Aeroflow do a neat looking heat shield for LS engine starters too...

 

 $_57.JPG   52.37K   5 downloads

 

http://www.ebay.com/...657f69a&vxp=mtr

 

...but I'm not sure if it'd fit your Tilton starter?

 

I'm sure there would be many other companies doing these too.

[Rockoz]

HPC coating will reduce the heat transfer as well.

Dearer than tape of course

[Racehatch]

Aeroflow do a neat looking heat shield for LS engine starters too...

 

$_57.JPG

 

http://www.ebay.com/...657f69a&vxp=mtr

 

...but I'm not sure if it'd fit your Tilton starter?

 

I'm sure there would be many other companies doing these too.

 

Nice work big fella! Will have to check that out...

 

Re the gearbox, cheers Craug I'll get in touch with them - still recovering from getting the new helmet/hans/seat/harness I needed to upgrade for this year, so it might not be for a little while...lol

[eyepeeler]

Pipe 3 in the clear.

[eyepeeler]

Pipe 4 well on the way.
Bit easier this one.

[Bigfella237]

Air isn't a good conductor of heat.
Your starter will get hotter from heat soak through the block than it will from a 10mm air gap between the starter and your pipes.
I wouldn't bother with wrapping...need to show off them sexy welds ☺️

 

Yeah but a header pipe gets ten times hotter than the block?

 

I meant to ask earlier eyepeeler, where did you get the extractor kit from? And would you say it had everything you needed or will you have to buy extra bends?

 

Also, what are your plans for getting that driver's side header in and out, will you just have to remove the two steering knuckles or will the column need to be withdrawn back into the cabin?

[eyepeeler]

Yeah but a header pipe gets ten times hotter than the block?
 
I meant to ask earlier eyepeeler, where did you get the extractor kit from? And would you say it had everything you needed or will you have to buy extra bends?
 
Also, what are your plans for getting that driver's side header in and out, will you just have to remove the two steering knuckles or will the column need to be withdrawn back into the cabin?

Hi BigFella, I just went to my local exhaust shop and asked if he could sell me some mandrel bends and some pipe. I bought 180 degree and 90 degree bends.

To get the header out I will have to do as you say, remove steering knuckle and column then drop the sub frame out of the car with engine on it.
I don't think there will be room enough to get them out without dropping the sub frame out.

Cheers,
Craig

[Bigfella237]

I don't think there will be room enough to get them out without dropping the sub frame out.

 

Thanks Craig,

 

That's a PITA but I hopefully it will only need to be done once!

 

I just went to my local exhaust shop and asked if he could sell me some mandrel bends and some pipe. I bought 180 degree and 90 degree bends.

 

So where did you get the flange plates that bolt to the heads, I'm assuming they must be custom made for 2" primaries?
 

[eyepeeler]

Thanks Craig,
 
That's a PITA but I hopefully it will only need to be done once!
 

 
So where did you get the flange plates that bolt to the heads, I'm assuming they must be custom made for 2" primaries?
 

I got that from the exhaust guy as well. They had to laser cut them for 2" pipes.
If you had the dimensions you could approach a laser cutting business directly? That's what I am going to do if I need more.