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IPRA 4 Door LX


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#126 A9X

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:48 PM

No worries Peter
Just let me know

#127 eyepeeler

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:33 PM

More work done to the wheel arch for the flares.


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#128 A9X

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 04:24 AM

Everyone making progress

#129 dattoman

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 10:41 AM

Except me ... sigh

#130 A9X

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 11:49 AM

Extract digit
BBQ
Boys

#131 eyepeeler

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:28 PM

More rust repairs this arvo.
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Cleaned this up with a flap disc and wire wheel.
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The reapair panel is a great fit.
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I have tacked it on and fitted door back onto car. Looks good so I will be finishing it off next time.

#132 eyepeeler

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:13 PM

I haven't to any photos to show but I have finished welding the rust panel in. Didn't turn out as good as I thought it might. It has warped a bit with the heat when welding. Got to sort out what I am doing wrong soon. Should be right by the time I do all 4 doors. Any way I tried to take some of the warp out by heating the area with oxy acet and quenching it with water. Did that a few times and got a not bad result. Still far from what I want but it is an improvement on what it was. I wish I took some photos to show what I did.
If anyone has any tips on any of this stuff feel free to share.

#133 TerrA LX

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 10:22 AM

The weld has probably shrunk when cooled, you need to hammer and dolly the weld evenly to stretch it back out. Just be careful not to go too far as mig wire is high tensile and it will c rack if dressed too far.
I use copper or alloy plate clamped behind any weld I can on panel work to help pull the heat out, the less heat into the panel the less it will shrink when cooled.
Hope this helps.

#134 eyepeeler

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 09:55 PM

Thanks for the advice TerrA. It's a bloody art form welding panels. On the driver side rear door I tried cooling the weld directly after and although it turned out better but it still buckled :banghead:
I was talking to Mick, the bloke who is doing Welby's paint on his project and he gave me a few tips on body filling and what to use, so off I went and bought some "Black Gold" for some of the deeper spots and "U-Pol" for finishing it off.

Today I mixed my first ever lot of filler and went for it.
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This door has heaps on the bottom as its the door I stuffed up with the heat.
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It looks like a lot of filler, it is a lot of filler, but if it does the job and it holds up then no problem. It's not going to be mint showroom stuff, but as a race car it will be tops.
Any way, I have to finish off the doors with more filler. Lots of sanding in store for me. :nopity:

#135 dattoman

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 10:25 PM

Less filler more faster...lol

Looks good mate

#136 eyepeeler

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 09:58 PM

Less filler more faster...lol

Looks good mate

I'm hear'n ya Datto, I guess if I had to I could screw more power out of the engine!! :driving:
I can't beleive how much filler has gone in and how much has ended up on the floor as I have sanded back. Bead Blasting the car may not have been such a good idea. I have finished the base filling on these 2 doors and later this week I will put the top coat on and rub that back and prime it.

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#137 eyepeeler

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 05:27 PM

6 months has gone since I last got any sort of a chance to do anything to my car!! Things have settled down a bit and I think I should have half a chance of getting some work done in the next few months. I have been talking to Datto, A9X and LX355 about setting up the front end. I thought that I might tackle this as the rules have changed in IP and I can now bring the cage forward into the engine bay. With this in mind I want to get the front end built and rolling so I can get it in and then do the bar work and make sure it will clear the engine.

Looks like a popular choice is the AP Racing CP5200 Caliper with a DBA or AP 330mm Rotor and the Hub in Chev/ HQ pattern with 1/2in studs. I have bought HZ stub axels, just the standard ones, not the 1 Tonner type, also got the springs on order. I went for Dobinsons C05-022 which are rated at 1158lbs. I am also going the SuperPro 90 route with the bushes. All this has been with the assistance of mainly Welby but also Dave and Neil. Thanks for the info lads. 

To build up the front suspension I needed to get the engine off the sub frame. Its been sitting on it for a long time, ever since I got the engine mounts done. So I had a look at knocking up a frame for it sit on whilst work was being done to the sub frame. This is what I came up with.

 

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Now I can get all the sub frame parts painted ready for all the bit and pieces. Then its time to screw it all together.

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#138 eyepeeler

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:14 PM

Got around to painting one side of the sub frame and control arms etc. Turned out ok I think.

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Turn them over and paint the other side next...



#139 A9X

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:43 PM

whats the other one on the floor?

 

post-6157-0-54788100-1368619865.jpg


Edited by A9X, 15 May 2013 - 10:44 PM.


#140 eyepeeler

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:56 PM

Hey Welby, its the original one that was in the car when I bought it. The one I painted today came from forum member outer control. It came from a UC as you have probably figured out.

 

 

whats the other one on the floor?

 

post-6157-0-54788100-1368619865.jpg



#141 eyepeeler

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:16 PM

Have just finished painting the front end parts.

Now its a waiting game until the springs, shock, bushes etc arrive and I can start to put it all together.

 

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#142 dattoman

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:28 PM

I don't remember you ordering any susp parts from me :)



#143 eyepeeler

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:40 PM

Hi Datto, all I have got ordered is the springs, shocks and bushes for the front. On top of the info you gave me I am also looking at another AP caliper. The CP5555 with the 330 rotor. 4 piston with the CP5200 you were telling me about or 6 piston with the CP5555. Weighing up the options at the moment. I am also considering getting a Commodore stud pattern Hub and not the HQ/Chev. I am still open to debate on that as I am trying to get off the shelf stuff and not custom made. Any thoughts.......



#144 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 03:17 PM

HQ/Chev or Ford pattern would give you more rim options than Commodore.

 

Work out what rims you like that clear the brakes as that may dictate the stud pattern.



#145 eyepeeler

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:21 PM

Hi Andy, Interesting you say that. Welby has said the same, and I'm still leaning towards that but, the bloke who I have talked to about supplying the Hubs and separately the shops who I have been talking to about calipers and rotors have both said to go with the 120 pcd Commodore pattern. What I do want to do is get off the shelf items if possible. So if I can get the hubs and hats with the right offset without having to go customising so much the better.

I have plasma cut a template of the AP rotor and caliper and have checked it in one of Welby's rims, fits ok.

 

HQ/Chev or Ford pattern would give you more rim options than Commodore.

 

Work out what rims you like that clear the brakes as that may dictate the stud pattern.



#146 dattoman

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 06:20 PM

The Ford pattern will give you the biggest wheel option

As they are the same as Mopar,Nissan,Toyota,Late Subaru and plenty of other things too 

 

The CP5555 is abit bigger and usually takes a 32mm thick disc ... so more rotating mass, bigger pad , and not always a step in the right direction... but since its a racecar not a streeter its certainly an option to consider.

The CP5570 is the 28mm thick version 6 pot that just about bolts to the CP5200 mount (slight mod) that might be an option too

 

Not sure you knew but I now work for a supplier of Kings springs , superpro bushes , exhaust etc

Incase you need anything just ask and I'll see what I can help with



#147 eyepeeler

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:21 PM

Thanks for the caliper info Neil. I just had a look at the CP5570, that could be an option as you say. So at the moment it could be these combinations:

CP5555 6 pot Caliper with a CP3581 330x32 Rotor

CP5570 6 pot Caliper with either CP3581 or the CP3580 330x28 Rotor

CP5200 4 pot Caliper with either CP3581 or CP3580

 

I didn't know that you worked in that area still. Shame I didn't know a bit earlier. I have only ordered the front bushes in Superpro, Bilstein shocks and Doby springs. I got that ordered through Malaga Suspension.

I will catch up later about the rear end. Exhaust could be a major help as well. Where do you work, I could drop by sometime??? 



#148 dattoman

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:45 PM

I probably supplied Malaga Susp with the bushes :)

They did by some for a Torana recently

 

PM me if you need anything.. .I'll see what I can do



#149 A9X

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 09:53 PM

Bilsteins Datto ?

 

or Konis' ? whats the best shock you do?



what about lovells springs, have a pair to return under warranty :)



#150 dattoman

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 11:37 PM

No mate... not that fancy

Lovells go back to WA Susp

Same with Konis






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