IPRA 4 Door LX
#126
Posted 22 November 2012 - 10:48 PM
Just let me know
#128
Posted 25 November 2012 - 04:24 AM
#129
Posted 25 November 2012 - 10:41 AM
#130
Posted 25 November 2012 - 11:49 AM
BBQ
Boys
#131
Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:28 PM
01.jpg 37.63K 8 downloads
Cleaned this up with a flap disc and wire wheel.
02.jpg 43.33K 8 downloads
The reapair panel is a great fit.
03.jpg 41.08K 8 downloads
04.jpg 45.02K 8 downloads
I have tacked it on and fitted door back onto car. Looks good so I will be finishing it off next time.
#132
Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:13 PM
If anyone has any tips on any of this stuff feel free to share.
#133
Posted 30 November 2012 - 10:22 AM
I use copper or alloy plate clamped behind any weld I can on panel work to help pull the heat out, the less heat into the panel the less it will shrink when cooled.
Hope this helps.
#134
Posted 07 December 2012 - 09:55 PM
I was talking to Mick, the bloke who is doing Welby's paint on his project and he gave me a few tips on body filling and what to use, so off I went and bought some "Black Gold" for some of the deeper spots and "U-Pol" for finishing it off.
Today I mixed my first ever lot of filler and went for it.
01.jpg 43.65K 8 downloads
This door has heaps on the bottom as its the door I stuffed up with the heat.
02.jpg 38.91K 8 downloads
03.jpg 40.51K 8 downloads
It looks like a lot of filler, it is a lot of filler, but if it does the job and it holds up then no problem. It's not going to be mint showroom stuff, but as a race car it will be tops.
Any way, I have to finish off the doors with more filler. Lots of sanding in store for me.
#135
Posted 07 December 2012 - 10:25 PM
Looks good mate
#136
Posted 08 December 2012 - 09:58 PM
I'm hear'n ya Datto, I guess if I had to I could screw more power out of the engine!!Less filler more faster...lol
Looks good mate
I can't beleive how much filler has gone in and how much has ended up on the floor as I have sanded back. Bead Blasting the car may not have been such a good idea. I have finished the base filling on these 2 doors and later this week I will put the top coat on and rub that back and prime it.
01.jpg 64.98K 10 downloads
#137
Posted 11 May 2013 - 05:27 PM
6 months has gone since I last got any sort of a chance to do anything to my car!! Things have settled down a bit and I think I should have half a chance of getting some work done in the next few months. I have been talking to Datto, A9X and LX355 about setting up the front end. I thought that I might tackle this as the rules have changed in IP and I can now bring the cage forward into the engine bay. With this in mind I want to get the front end built and rolling so I can get it in and then do the bar work and make sure it will clear the engine.
Looks like a popular choice is the AP Racing CP5200 Caliper with a DBA or AP 330mm Rotor and the Hub in Chev/ HQ pattern with 1/2in studs. I have bought HZ stub axels, just the standard ones, not the 1 Tonner type, also got the springs on order. I went for Dobinsons C05-022 which are rated at 1158lbs. I am also going the SuperPro 90 route with the bushes. All this has been with the assistance of mainly Welby but also Dave and Neil. Thanks for the info lads.
To build up the front suspension I needed to get the engine off the sub frame. Its been sitting on it for a long time, ever since I got the engine mounts done. So I had a look at knocking up a frame for it sit on whilst work was being done to the sub frame. This is what I came up with.
01.jpg 174.17K 12 downloads
02.jpg 152.44K 9 downloads
Now I can get all the sub frame parts painted ready for all the bit and pieces. Then its time to screw it all together.
03.jpg 230.69K 10 downloads
#138
Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:14 PM
Got around to painting one side of the sub frame and control arms etc. Turned out ok I think.
Sub Frame Paint 01.JPG 125.38K 8 downloads
Sub Frame Paint 02.JPG 123.79K 7 downloads
Sub Frame Paint 03.JPG 144.74K 10 downloads
Turn them over and paint the other side next...
#139
Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:43 PM
whats the other one on the floor?
post-6157-0-54788100-1368619865.jpg
Edited by A9X, 15 May 2013 - 10:44 PM.
#140
Posted 15 May 2013 - 10:56 PM
Hey Welby, its the original one that was in the car when I bought it. The one I painted today came from forum member outer control. It came from a UC as you have probably figured out.
whats the other one on the floor?
#142
Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:28 PM
I don't remember you ordering any susp parts from me
#143
Posted 18 May 2013 - 02:40 PM
Hi Datto, all I have got ordered is the springs, shocks and bushes for the front. On top of the info you gave me I am also looking at another AP caliper. The CP5555 with the 330 rotor. 4 piston with the CP5200 you were telling me about or 6 piston with the CP5555. Weighing up the options at the moment. I am also considering getting a Commodore stud pattern Hub and not the HQ/Chev. I am still open to debate on that as I am trying to get off the shelf stuff and not custom made. Any thoughts.......
#144
Posted 18 May 2013 - 03:17 PM
HQ/Chev or Ford pattern would give you more rim options than Commodore.
Work out what rims you like that clear the brakes as that may dictate the stud pattern.
#145
Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:21 PM
Hi Andy, Interesting you say that. Welby has said the same, and I'm still leaning towards that but, the bloke who I have talked to about supplying the Hubs and separately the shops who I have been talking to about calipers and rotors have both said to go with the 120 pcd Commodore pattern. What I do want to do is get off the shelf items if possible. So if I can get the hubs and hats with the right offset without having to go customising so much the better.
I have plasma cut a template of the AP rotor and caliper and have checked it in one of Welby's rims, fits ok.
HQ/Chev or Ford pattern would give you more rim options than Commodore.
Work out what rims you like that clear the brakes as that may dictate the stud pattern.
#146
Posted 18 May 2013 - 06:20 PM
The Ford pattern will give you the biggest wheel option
As they are the same as Mopar,Nissan,Toyota,Late Subaru and plenty of other things too
The CP5555 is abit bigger and usually takes a 32mm thick disc ... so more rotating mass, bigger pad , and not always a step in the right direction... but since its a racecar not a streeter its certainly an option to consider.
The CP5570 is the 28mm thick version 6 pot that just about bolts to the CP5200 mount (slight mod) that might be an option too
Not sure you knew but I now work for a supplier of Kings springs , superpro bushes , exhaust etc
Incase you need anything just ask and I'll see what I can help with
#147
Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:21 PM
Thanks for the caliper info Neil. I just had a look at the CP5570, that could be an option as you say. So at the moment it could be these combinations:
CP5555 6 pot Caliper with a CP3581 330x32 Rotor
CP5570 6 pot Caliper with either CP3581 or the CP3580 330x28 Rotor
CP5200 4 pot Caliper with either CP3581 or CP3580
I didn't know that you worked in that area still. Shame I didn't know a bit earlier. I have only ordered the front bushes in Superpro, Bilstein shocks and Doby springs. I got that ordered through Malaga Suspension.
I will catch up later about the rear end. Exhaust could be a major help as well. Where do you work, I could drop by sometime???
#148
Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:45 PM
I probably supplied Malaga Susp with the bushes
They did by some for a Torana recently
PM me if you need anything.. .I'll see what I can do
#149
Posted 18 May 2013 - 09:53 PM
Bilsteins Datto ?
or Konis' ? whats the best shock you do?
what about lovells springs, have a pair to return under warranty
#150
Posted 18 May 2013 - 11:37 PM
No mate... not that fancy
Lovells go back to WA Susp
Same with Konis
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