1672 replies to this topic

[dattoman]

17th works for me

[orangeLJ]

I save me going back through the thread, what's the basic rundown in the ls engine?

[eyepeeler]

I save me going back through the thread, what's the basic rundown in the ls engine?

  

By memory a reco engine from SRE with dry sump setup. Don't think specs were ever noted

Yep, I bought the engine from SRE, Searle Racing Equipment.
He is no longer in that business as it was. It was bought as a brand new motor, L98 that he sold as a 550 HP at the flywheel engine.
It has a cam in it, can't remember what it is, I bought it over 5 years back lol.
It has an ARE dry sump and oil pump set up.

The only changes I have made are the Holley fuel rails and throttle body.

[eyepeeler]

https://vimeo.com/181287113

[eyepeeler]

https://vimeo.com/181287113

[eyepeeler]

Haha, awesome.
Motor sure sounds ballsie!

My guess for that rubbing noise.....disc touching a backing plate?

Yeah, agreed with you. The retainer thing I put in is making the noise.

[Bigfella237]

Very restrained...

 

TITS OR RUBBER... ONE OR T'OTHER (sorry, Summernats flashback)

[eyepeeler]

Very restrained...

TITS OR RUBBER... ONE OR T'OTHER (sorry, Summernats flashback)

LOL

[grumpy xu1]

As far as im aware, all ryco's have anti drain back, haven't seen 1 that didn't so far. The repco version doesn't. As for a air filter you could contact Cam @ psico he's on Facebook, which i don't do, but he was telling me a month ago that he's getting a new type of filter similar to k&n style made, but his are tested for filtration no just at maximum revs, i wont mention to much, but they sound like a good thing. There being done specifically for all these hipo diesel things that are now putting out ridiculous hp & torque, but he does do some ls stuff. & for the intake pipe, I'd be checking whether 1 of the thermo pastic type materials, would get less heat soak than alloy ect, as that can be a problem with the otr in commodore ect. As for oil in your ls, i personally wouldn't use any thing else appart from liquimoly 5-40 top tech I've tried others & it's years ahead & about the same price, didn't notice if you have an oil cooler fitted as you'll be doing some hard track work obviously. You must have about 2k in braid & fittings & i must say the job you are doing is brilliant. Could i trouble you to pust up your steam vent system, as i have to go down this road shortly, have just about everything for the job. I think i need to read your thread. But it will be a absolute fun weapon when you get it going mate well done, Gary.

[mshue]

Now that, is exciting. Awesome stuff!

[eyepeeler]

As far as im aware, all ryco's have anti drain back, haven't seen 1 that didn't so far. The repco version doesn't. As for a air filter you could contact Cam @ psico he's on Facebook, which i don't do, but he was telling me a month ago that he's getting a new type of filter similar to k&n style made, but his are tested for filtration no just at maximum revs, i wont mention to much, but they sound like a good thing. There being done specifically for all these hipo diesel things that are now putting out ridiculous hp & torque, but he does do some ls stuff. & for the intake pipe, I'd be checking whether 1 of the thermo pastic type materials, would get less heat soak than alloy ect, as that can be a problem with the otr in commodore ect. As for oil in your ls, i personally wouldn't use any thing else appart from liquimoly 5-40 top tech I've tried others & it's years ahead & about the same price, didn't notice if you have an oil cooler fitted as you'll be doing some hard track work obviously. You must have about 2k in braid & fittings & i must say the job you are doing is brilliant. Could i trouble you to pust up your steam vent system, as i have to go down this road shortly, have just about everything for the job. I think i need to read your thread. But it will be a absolute fun weapon when you get it going mate well done, Gary.

 
Thanks Gary, appreciate that input. I took the Ryco filter off after the session on the dyno and replaced it with a K&N filter. Will give you the part number later if you like.
I started to look at a air box to make for cold air into the motor. I will put a few pictures up later of what I'm up to. I haven't look to hard into what intake pipe to use but I guess that the blue plastic/silicone style will be ok.
The oil I am using is a Penrite product, 15W-50 Racing 15.
 image.jpeg   116.15K   5 downloads  image.jpeg   116.15K   5 downloads
Is there a reason you suggest using Liquimoly? Do you think it will be a better product?
Yeah, an oil cooler is certainly on the cards before too long. I have been told a 24 row 13 inch cooler should do.
The amount of coin in hose and fittings is quite a bit, that's for sure!! That stuff is not cheap, but it certainly does e job.
I used an aftermarket adaptor with a -4 flare male fitting to screw to the 4 seam ports on the block. I used a -4 to -6 flare reducer to -6 hose and I connected it all up with a series of tee's leading back to the radiator. I can take a few pictures for you.

 

Now that, is exciting. Awesome stuff!

Cheers Marcus, it was so cool to steer the thing even though I didn't get out of first gear, lol.

[Ice]

Any Penrite oil is good stuff

[grumpy xu1]

Yes, please mate, I'd love some photos of the set up. If you're running cats, dont use zinc, the 1st thing I'd do is drop that engine oil & use the shit to poison weeds it's f@cking shit, at least run nulon 10 - 40 fast flow comes in a 6 litre around $ 70 contains moly aswell I've sold the brand of oil you have & now feel guilty & i know a parts interpretor who refuses to push it after having it in his td42 for 30 klms, & it destroyed it needing a 6.5k rebuild, unfortunately I'm not joking & he was basically told not interested your problem bud. The liquimoly is a bit more expensive if it's a Ls3 as i told Gene it'll run 5-30 special tec ll part # 1193 is 5 litre & # 1194 is a 20 litre imparts stock it, or Auto barn or super cheap. Their petrol decarb is a great parts cleaner although a bit exy. For piece of mind mate, run the moly. As for engine cooler, i think i bought about 28 row by memory, haven't fitted it yet. Some blokes fit a thermostat type system, as in to only let the oil flow completely at a certain temp, point of this is they are not heating the oil up a lot, you will be racing so that's a different story. I personally don't drive mine until the thermostat kicks in any way & i stand by this practice. Also prevents wear as things are all cylindrical ect once your driving, hope that makes sense ? I had better fit that cooler now i think of it thanks for reminding me ! My fans just stopped working on the ss so i have to chase the issue $1100 a year rego haven't driven it for 5 months, mum was saying last week it's a ridiculous waste of money it's like 2k when you put insurance into that & then x 2 because I have 2 v8's crazily. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

+ the oil you have, they like to say to run quite thick oil. If you want dramas with your oiling system in your ls than keep using it, basically the research points to the thick oil damaging the oil pump, causing a pressure issue, which runs less flow to the bearings which causes a cam & lifter failure, & bearing issues, they say to run 20-50 even with a engine that doesn't burn oil. Run the thinner oil top tech 4100 5-40 with your oil cooler & you shouldn't have an issue, I run .5 litre extra in the ls1's so if your sump & oil lines & cooler held 6 then you would put in 6.5 it's common practice & stops the oil level light on hard acceleration, i also run 4.9 instead of 4.4 in the t56's, but don't overfill the diff as in m80 commodore diff which you don't run I know, you will not blow seals with these levels, but the 10 tenths has been known to cause leaks. Hope I don't seem rude ? Gary.

[Bigfella237]

You must not have scrolled back through the thread far enough Gary, this beast is dry sumped. It's running an ARE sump and pump with three scavenge stages and a Peterson oil tank in the boot.

 

Which brings oil aeration into the picture too, I've read certain oils/additives are better than others in this situation?

 

I finished off the oil lines and spun the oil pump up with a drill to get oil through the lines and motor.




I am using Penrite running in oil and it took 17 litres!!!!
3 1/2 of these

[Bigfella237]

Which reminds me, Craig have you seen these new Spintric oil/air separators that ARE have now?

 

http://www.spintric.com/Spintric.htm

 

 

[grumpy xu1]

Okay mate, so to get rid of this oil, you could add liquimoly engine flush + 3 bottles does about, 15 litres, so you should be pretty good there just idle for around 15 minutes mate. At least you haven't run the zinc yet. What i meant to say is it can also cause issues with oxygen sensors, ask me how i found out grr ! Glad to see you didn't run full synthetic straight away, i get into a little American research on the ls engines & have a few books on the things, 1 of the guys in the USA, pretunes the engine (new engine obviously) on the ecu ect. Fills oil, does break in, mineral oil only, dumps oil, new mineral oil 50 klms dumps oil, fits full synthetic does 150 klms dump oil, then full synthetic only, changed at 5,000 klms intervals. Works for major Nascar teams, these puppies have to run stock looking gear like rockers ect, all parts must be capable of 12,500 rpms, sfi approved, so if you're looking for replacement parts pick something that meets sfi mate. My suggestions would be anything comp cams, tci, lunati, mellings 10296 or 10295 oil pump depending on your tolerances & yes you still have to port them pretty simple though I have photos, i have some burs the size of a match head, take a long time, but awesome in little tight corners. Incidentally i know an engine builder who i was talking with about Howards cams etc for a friend's & he was saying some of there lobes dial up totally different over a v8 cam ect,& they're honestly about $275 cheaper for a package, his only selection is crane cams, comp cams, lunati. Mellings, Jessel ect. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

So, a good book is how to build high performance Chevy ls1/ls6 v8's by will handzel code sa86, usually at car goodies for around $50 i think, it does cover some Ls3 & ls7 stuff including, dry sump set ups Sa147 is also a good book, although they do talk about slp brand & i wouldn't buy it, I have a trick flow 25% u d balancer, otherwise I'd suggest a tci rattler (which is comp cams) or ati. MagnaFlow & hooker (which is holley) would be my choice of exhaust ect, Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Oh & i have a Evans ls1/ls6 high volume water pump to go on the ss, John is the Australian supplier, around the $400 mark turns about 18% more water through the engine, a big deal with all aluminum, i have also internally ported it as well, yes it makes a difference, also purging air from the system i believe is majorly critical, hence why i really am interested in your steam vent system, & i do believe going into the radiator top tank as you are doing is the best idea personally, if you'd like advice on brand's I'd be happy to answer you mate, I'd rather save someone's money for them & just get good quality from the start, but looking at your car, it's clear you don't buy junk ! Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

So I have been looking back a few pages & noticed that you have a ati balancer, so all good there, but i did read how you said that the engine seemed hot when 1st running, have you checked that there no air in the system ? & seen coolant coming out of the steam vent lines, they are a pain to bleed mate. Gary

[Bigfella237]

If you're worried that you still have air in the cooling system then maybe get yourself one of those vacuum refill kits that draw all the air from the system and vacuum test it for leaks before sucking the coolant in, that way there can't be any air trapped anywhere.

 

Uview Airlift is one brand, but they're also made by Snapon, Matco and a few other manufacturers.

 

http://www.uview.com...&productid=5120