1672 replies to this topic

[eyepeeler]

Rotors for the front turned up today. Nice.

 

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Edited by eyepeeler, 18 June 2013 - 09:35 PM.

[eyepeeler]

The other night Welby and I finished off bolting the sub frame together. Got1UR1 came round for a chin wag as well as help me out with some parts, thanks for the help mate. I am happy with the result.

 

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[Potta]

Sorry if this is a dumb question but are they quick change rotors?

 

Just curious how they attach to the hub too.

[ls2lxhatch]

There will be an alloy hat similar to this. The discs mount the same as one piece steel discs. The alloy hat reduces weight, heat transfer and can be made to position the disc where you want with any stud pattern.

 

 

DBA has a range of off the shelf 5000 series discs with alloy hats or you can just buy the disc and make your own hat.

 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 22 June 2013 - 01:23 AM.

[Potta]

That all makes a lot of sense and sounds like an awesome system.

 

I guess it would help them keep production costs down too.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

With those MSF hubs, I understand they use larger bearings than standard. Do you know what size they are?

[eyepeeler]

MSF have 2 sorts of hubs available, standard bearing and big bearing. I have gone with the standard bearing with a Stub stiffener/ bearing spacer. Below is a link to the stiffener/ spacer.

http://www.msfracing...bearingspacers/

 

The big bearing hub uses a sleeve that goes over the stub axel to strengthen the axel and then a "bigger" set of bearings are used along with the stiffener/ spacer. Below is the link

http://www.msfracing...aringfronthubs/

 

The price difference is quite a bit as you would notice. The gear I got off them suits me ok. One thing with standard stiffener/ spacer is that it has to be machined down to suit the distance between your bearings on your stub axel. Not a big job for a good machinist though.

[eyepeeler]

Those bearing spacers are interesting... I could whip up a couple on the lathe, altho they say there's are made from hardened steel?
 
Im guessing you have already fitted these and cannot measure the dimensions?

If your good on a lathe Clint you could make some. To make them you mate each end to the diameter and thickness of the inner race and then it comes down to length. Trial and fit, keep doing that till you get a good fit. The ones supplied to me by MSF were cylindrical and tapered down over the last 25mm or so. It was the larger end that got trimmed for length.

[warrenm]

You could use something like 4140 which is tough but still machinable as long as it isn't heat treated.

[dattoman]

You can buy moly barstock from the usual suspects

[eyepeeler]

I picked up the steering rack and engine mount bushes today. I made the steering rack bushes out of 4140 grade steel. They sit in the tapered seat of the steering rack really nicely. I am going to make some out of 6061 Alloy as well.

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The engine mounts are made out of 6061 Alloy, the difference between the 2 of them is the rebate. The deeper one is for the front  mount as it has 3 thickness' of metal, the rear mount only has 2 thickness'.

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I can get some more steering and engine mounts made up for anyone who is interested in buying some. Send me a PM if you are interested whilst I work out much they would be, haven't got that far yet.

 

[ozyozyozy]

I have been dealing with Marcus MSF for a little while, I bought in a set of his big bearing hubs for a vh commo, they are quality gear, very well made, yes they cost more but there is a good reason for having them.

those hub stiffeners have actually been used in saloon car racing for quite sometime, there a good idea, highly recommend at least this mod if doing track work, they help distribute load on the stub axle better. the big bearing hubs do a better job again

 

also heads up if you haven't come across it, the dba 5000 discs are made in batches so are not available all the time, im using 328x28mm versions on front and worn out both front and my rear. I  have been told 8 to 13 week wait for replacement for both front and rear discs which is just crap and not good enough.

noticed you have ap front rotors are they the 5000 series rotors?

I am changing to an ap racing rotor 330 x 32, 5000 series and am currently having custom made hats. my fronts will be equivalent to the vt HSV front disc, sorry cant remember the dba no. of top of my head. I am going to a 315 x 28, 5000 series rear disc. cost a bit more but once again quality is better.

if your using the same discs eyepeeler, we can do a deal with my guy to make more hats, to keep price down.

give me a buzz if it suits you.

 

 

nice rack mounts, they will be good for steering feel.

Edited by ozyozyozy, 25 June 2013 - 07:20 PM.

[eyepeeler]

G'day Ozy, yeah the rotors are CP-5000-206G8 and 207G8. They are 330x32. I need to get the mount for the calipers as well as the hats made . Could be interested in what you are doing regards your hats. I have already started talking to the bloke who did the bushes for me about making the hats and caliper mounts. Let me know what your bloke has to say??

 

Thanks for comment on steering bushes. They should work a treat.

 

Marcus was full of info and helped with what I needed. Took a bit to get there but in the end it was all good. Really happy with the hubs. Would love to go the big bearing, but cost is a factor and I just want to get the bloody thing on a race track!!! Good bit of kit without to much compromise in my opinion.

 

I have been dealing with Marcus MSF for a little while, I bought in a set of his big bearing hubs for a vh commo, they are quality gear, very well made, yes they cost more but there is a good reason for having them.

those hub stiffeners have actually been used in saloon car racing for quite sometime, there a good idea, highly recommend at least this mod if doing track work, they help distribute load on the stub axle better. the big bearing hubs do a better job again

 

also heads up if you haven't come across it, the dba 5000 discs are made in batches so are not available all the time, im using 328x28mm versions on front and worn out both front and my rear. I  have been told 8 to 13 week wait for replacement for both front and rear discs which is just crap and not good enough.

noticed you have ap front rotors are they the 5000 series rotors?

I am changing to an ap racing rotor 330 x 32, 5000 series and am currently having custom made hats. my fronts will be equivalent to the vt HSV front disc, sorry cant remember the dba no. of top of my head. I am going to a 315 x 28, 5000 series rear disc. cost a bit more but once again quality is better.

if your using the same discs eyepeeler, we can do a deal with my guy to make more hats, to keep price down.

give me a buzz if it suits you.

 

 

nice rack mounts, they will be good for steering feel.

[2600s]

Great progress mate, continuing to watch with interest......

"Cheers"

Alf

[eyepeeler]

Nothing to report on painting or body work, but I have been doing research into the diff and wheels. I have had help and ideas from a number of people, it all helps.

 

I have ordered a 9" diff which Race Products in QLD are going to build for me. Strange centre housing, DOM thickwall axel tubes, 31 spline axels, floating hubs with "toe in" to fixed 1mm and adjustable camber which has the range od 0.5 - 3.0 degree, I am getting a 2 degree to start with, Tru-Trac centre but not sure what ratio yet and Watts Link. I have it on very good authority, every one who's set a Torana for racing in fact, that the top arms on the diff are not good. I am planning to run a 3 link rear with the 3rd link going from the diff to the chassis rail under the uni-joint for the gearbox.

 

This is a VN Dunnydore 9" diff that Race Products built for a customer who is also building it for IP. 

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This is a photo that LXSS350 gave me for a 3rd link idea. I like it, looking at doing it this way.

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Have my L34 on the hoist as well getting an idea of diff width that I will need for the race car.

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Just like this photo, so here it is!!

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Edited by eyepeeler, 20 July 2013 - 10:05 PM.

[eyepeeler]

I have all the info ready for the diff to be built but there is one thing I don't have!! Race Products have asked for a bare LX diff to use to get the bracket geometry right.

 

Is anyone from Brisbane able to help me out in a huge way by letting them use your diff to get that geometry? I would say they would need it for a couple of weeks. They are not going to damage it or anything, just use it to copy it. They are from Kedron, just north of the Brisbane River.

 

Cheers in advance

[Heath]

There is some really nice gear in this thread. But hot damn those hubs are not cheap! 

[eyepeeler]

Cheers Heath, Just trying to build it as strong as I can without busting the budget to much. That's why it has taken a few years to get this far!!

 

There is some really nice gear in this thread. But hot damn those hubs are not cheap! 

[eyepeeler]

Just thought I would share what I have come up with for diff width, would like opinions on what I come up with.

 

When the L34 was on the hoist I measured outside of flare to outside of flare:

Front  1770

Rear   1785

 

Wheel mounting to wheel mounting surface:

Front  1443

Rear   1420

 

Choice of wheel, Superlite 16x8, with 225mm outside dimension for that wheel with back space of 110. 

 

I thought 50mm off the outside flare measurement would be ok, 25mm each side. So outside to outside of wheel is 1735mm for the rear. 

1735 - 450 = 1285   (450 is the total wheel width for both wheels)

1285 + 220 = 1505   (220 is the total back space for both wheels)

 

So I figure the diff would be mounting face to mounting face 1505mm. That's 85mm wider that the L34's diff.

 

Thoughts??

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Mount the tyre to the rim and measure the tyre sidewall to sidewall. You may wish to throw that into the equation.