I imagine the 2.78-3.08 has one setup, and the 3.36-3.90 has another setup?
Could someone summarize this...
If you go from a 3.08 to a 3.36, what do you need to do to the housing to fit the diff in properly?
If you go from a 3.36 to a 3.08, what do you need to do to the housing to fit the diff in properly?
Do you need to weld in any captive nuts either way?
Difference in mounting bolts/studs for Banjo ratios
Started by
Heath
, May 30 2011 10:38 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Heath
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 10:38 AM
#2
mitchg
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 10:43 AM
I have had one of every ratio in mine at some point and the only difference is the long bolts with the 2.78-3.08 and shorter bolts with 3.36-3.90. This is all I've ever had to change when I have changed diffs.
#3
mitchg
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#4
Heath
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 11:23 AM
Ah okay well I'm pretty sure I have one of those long bolts in my old housing (which was fitted with a 2.78:1 centre).
Sounds like I'll be laughin'
Sounds like I'll be laughin'
#5
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 30 May 2011 - 07:09 PM
Gday Heath,
I like to swap my ratios around too depending on what tyre &
rims I'm using (when its going that is)
Mines an LJ but spose it the same for the others. I use a 2.78/
3.08 housing so no problem using my 3.08 long bolt carrier.
When I change to my 3.36 or 3.55 I use the short drain/bolt"A" as
normal for those carriers & where you'd use the smaller nut"B" I
put a allen head bolt in as its tight for room hence the need for
the smaller nut normally.
Banjo.JPG 41.85K
10 downloads
Just take the short drain bolt "A" to Cov's or somewhere & ask for
an allen head bolt the same length & thread.
If your doing baffle plates I've still got a template around someplace
that I copied from my XU1 housing & put in this one, let me know if you
want a copy of it.
I like to swap my ratios around too depending on what tyre &
rims I'm using (when its going that is)
Mines an LJ but spose it the same for the others. I use a 2.78/
3.08 housing so no problem using my 3.08 long bolt carrier.
When I change to my 3.36 or 3.55 I use the short drain/bolt"A" as
normal for those carriers & where you'd use the smaller nut"B" I
put a allen head bolt in as its tight for room hence the need for
the smaller nut normally.
Banjo.JPG 41.85K
10 downloadsJust take the short drain bolt "A" to Cov's or somewhere & ask for
an allen head bolt the same length & thread.
If your doing baffle plates I've still got a template around someplace
that I copied from my XU1 housing & put in this one, let me know if you
want a copy of it.
#6
Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:55 AM
Yes if you put a 2.78-3.08 into a 3.36-3.9 housing, you will need to remove one stud and swap for a captive nut. Otherwise it will just be a matter of swapping short/long bolts as above.Do you need to weld in any captive nuts either way?
The allen head bolt is a good idea as it really is quite tight there, I've used an extra long bolt with spacer under the head in the past (can't buy new parts, must use whats in the shed)
#7
_Spark Eater_
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:34 AM
I'm putting a fine 3.36 centre in my 2.78 housing, so I'm gonna need a whole set of short bolts? does anyone know the specs for these bolts, and where I could find them?
there is one auction on ebay, which has been posted in this thread, and it's for one bolt.
there is one auction on ebay, which has been posted in this thread, and it's for one bolt.
#8
Heath
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Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:55 AM
Hmmm... any advice for welding that nut in? Sounds like an awkward job.
#9
Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:54 AM
You need two bolts only, just get shorter versions of the two long ones that you pull out. Also make sure they have copper washers on the heads or some other method of sealing so your diff doesn't leak (the very bottom bolt actually doubles as the drain bung).I'm putting a fine 3.36 centre in my 2.78 housing, so I'm gonna need a whole set of short bolts? does anyone know the specs for these bolts, and where I could find them?
there is one auction on ebay, which has been posted in this thread, and it's for one bolt.
Only needs a tack so it stays put, I've done it backwards in the past too with the bolt sticking out from the housing like a stud which allows you to cheat and not weld it at all. You said above that you have a 2.78 housing though which will already have the captive nut?Hmmm... any advice for welding that nut in? Sounds like an awkward job.
#10
Heath
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Posted 01 June 2011 - 02:32 PM
The 2.78 housing is sitting under the house, I have a short ratio housing in the car.
Anyway, doesn't matter, I just cut a long bolt and stud and welded them together, so now I have an extra long stud to install when I put the diff in, which should be in a few hours.
Anyway, doesn't matter, I just cut a long bolt and stud and welded them together, so now I have an extra long stud to install when I put the diff in, which should be in a few hours.
#11
Heath
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Posted 01 June 2011 - 10:20 PM
The reason for ^ is that I wanted to swap the centre on my mate's hoist and I didn't have my welder there.
This is what I did lol
Cut them at the right length and made a slot to weld it neatly
And used another long 3/8 UNF bolt for the drain plug itself, and put a copper washer on that, although that may not have been necessary.
Seems to have done the job okay. I'm sure it's not high tensile anything any more, but it didn't fail when I pulled it through with a nut and a few spacers, and I tightened it up reasonably. The weld is TIG with MS filler
This is what I did lol
Cut them at the right length and made a slot to weld it neatly
And used another long 3/8 UNF bolt for the drain plug itself, and put a copper washer on that, although that may not have been necessary.
Seems to have done the job okay. I'm sure it's not high tensile anything any more, but it didn't fail when I pulled it through with a nut and a few spacers, and I tightened it up reasonably. The weld is TIG with MS filler
Edited by Heath, 01 June 2011 - 10:22 PM.
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