Tyre Biter's Hatchback - ETA unknown...
#226
Posted 18 December 2011 - 07:59 PM
By the way, LOVELY Hatch!
#227
Posted 18 December 2011 - 08:02 PM
Edited by Redslur, 18 December 2011 - 08:08 PM.
#228
Posted 20 December 2011 - 04:16 PM
I told TB that if he wanted a white one I would swap it for his green one :-) I love Mint julep.
Done - when do we exchange keys and a Bill of Sale?
Cheers, TB
#229
Posted 21 December 2011 - 10:59 AM
#230
Posted 21 December 2011 - 12:35 PM
#231
Posted 12 January 2012 - 09:01 PM
Phew - it'sgood to get that out... I have in fact been able to get at least some 'Torrie Time' along the way - usualy during midday sleeps and I can report the front springs are painted and the suspension is now ready to have the springs installed - it is largely done and dusted - jeepers those domed shaped bump-stop rubbers on the UCA are a PITA arse to get seated aren't they!
Whilst procrastinating whilst working out how and when to fit the front springs, my attention turned to the steering rack and I started cleaning up the rack only to receive another lesson on what I don't know. I nicked the left hand rubber boot with the wire wheel and a semi-orange coloured oil (smelled like diff/gearbox oil) poured from inside. I ended up removing the boot and more oil has escaped but the flow now seems to have been quelled after the rack has likely hemorrhaged all of it's contents.
God bless the forum for I was able to find out all sorts of stuff about them - oil type, volume and that it seems likely for it to be 'normal' that oil is all through the outside of the rack (past the internal bush) and filling the boot - especially on the left side. Just to be sure; is this outcome indeed 'normal'?
I also stole a moment to dig out the fabriacted and adjustable trailing arms for the rear suspension. These parts came with the car and must be good because 'tosso' (the former owner) mentioned them a few times as being a good bit of kit in relation to being able to set one's pinion angle accurately. If I've learned anything - adjustablility and choices are not neccessarily a good thing and often folk, like myself, seem to merely mess things up when chasing a setting.
In any case, i found them to have some surface corrosion in places and so today I rubbed/wire wheeled down one pair before priming in readiness for the ubiquitous gloss black paint used on the undercarriage. I am a bit thrown by these units and exactly how they install, and so I posted another thread to clear up my lack of knowledge; http://www.gmh-toran...-trailing-arms/
I even got a moment to clean up and paint the UC steering arms kindly issued to me by CB - thanks mate!
Finally, thanks for the pics lxssv8 - your car looks fantastic - I appreciate the glimpse into the future.
Righto then, the next stop is to get the front suspension together and in the car, and so until then...
Cheers, TB
Edited by Tyre biter, 12 January 2012 - 09:03 PM.
#232
Posted 13 January 2012 - 08:35 AM
Love looking at your thread as your car is a little ahead of mine and gives me something to keep me motivated.
And it's the right colour green too!!
Derrin.
#233
Posted 14 January 2012 - 08:27 PM
No particular need disclose the 'how' but I will nevertheless for the sake of a bit of humour.
I am sure those who have done something or nearly done something similar know the story oh too well; Hot day in the shed, open bottle of refreshment (whatever) nearby and adjacent the same, an open bottle of something else - insert 'Prepsol' here.
Cricket on the TV or similar distration and yep, you know the rest.
It's been several hours and the burps are still heavily tainted with a turps flavour...
And so I don't recommend it.
In fact, my not recommending it is right up there with my other nugget of life - never, ever, ever, ever...ever, wipe your arse with a KFC refresher towlette...
Cheers, TB
Edited by Tyre biter, 14 January 2012 - 08:27 PM.
#234 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 14 January 2012 - 08:55 PM
Cheers.
#235
Posted 18 January 2012 - 04:25 PM
Redslur came around today to help me and whilst here, he opened the Prepsol for a wee task - the flashback was immediate and painful - I almost retched on the spot at merely the smell.
Down to business; We got the K-Frame in today!
Bloody hell what a job, but having heard on here how hard and frustrating it can be, I found that with Gerry directing efforts it went pretty well actually;
There was a bit of bush mechanicing required, no less for the bolts that retain the rear K-Frame arms to the body. I turned my bucket of bolts upside down and inside out but alas, none to be found.
Questions arising:
a. The bolt is 5/8 right?
b. How long should it be?
c. Is it threaded the entire length or smooth for a portion, and
d. What grade tensile is it?
In any case we stuck something in there to hold it in place before turning our attention to my UPC 280mm AUIII Brake kit - went bloody well despite some fears I had having read a few things here;
After Gerry left I couldn't help myself and had to fit up a new Hotwire just to check clearances - that is what I told myself knowing full well it was okay after previously testing it on Gerry's car - the reality being that I just wanted to see what it looked like;
And so now it is time to turn my attention to the steering rack and again I have found some threads on here really interesting. I learned of greasing it as opposed to using SAE 140 oil and my local suspension shop said Castrol EPL O grease was best suited. I can't find any, and to order it in I have to pay for two 5kg drums! I'll keep looking I guess...
Finally, I just wanted to again say thanks Gerry - it is just great to finally have the front suspension back under it and we both know there is no way I would have gotten it done by myself - I would have fallen short on skills, effort required and patience...probably in that order too!
Cheers, TB
Edited by Tyre biter, 18 January 2012 - 04:26 PM.
#236
Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:21 PM
Seems like people are only having issues with the 330mm kits.
#237 _AD_75_
Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:29 PM
Yes, it bloody awful isn't it Bomber.
Redslur came around today to help me and whilst here, he opened the Prepsol for a wee task - the flashback was immediate and painful - I almost retched on the spot at merely the smell.
Oh dear oh dear..a similar thing happend to me, except my chosen beverage was some radiator coolant.. you know what they say though..if your green inside your clean inside..but anyway TB stay off the prepsol mate its not that good for you.
P.s car is coming along nicely!
#238
Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:44 PM
#239
Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:45 PM
Did you have to file the stub axle or the UPC bracket a tad at all?
I only ask because I had to, but it was a poofteenth of nothing and so yep - all is good with UPC it seems.
But yes, most commentary regarding poor fit, and parts clashing with others does seem to pertain to the 330mm jobbies.
I am no engineer and not even a mechanic by any means, but I do wonder if 330mm units are required - I've driven Gerry's car with the 280, 290, 287 or whatever millimetre units they are and it pulls up just fine - time, after time, after time. Indeed he gave me a steer just today as a friendly means to reinvigorate me. Not that I've gone sour, but I think he offered me the steer just to keep me motivated - goodness knows we run out of that at times in these re-builds.
I loved it.
But back to my quandry, maybe the 330mm units are important especially in track work but I found the two piston 287mm units to arrest the car just fine, and pedal feel is really, really good - probably better than the >430 rwhp VE monster I recently unloaded.
Thanks AD - very kind of you.
This experience proves that yet again I have never had an original idea in my life, even if by misadventure.
To learn that two fellas have now owned up to swallowing something untoward whilst squirreling away at their car is heartening to know - I am an idiot yes, but not the sole silly-billy it seems - perhaps we should start a club...or even a forum maybe
But bloody hell, whilst I learned via the Poison Information Hotline and the MDS which I Googled that it can be life threatening if you get it into your lungs via coughing or vomiting, jeepers that coolant can't be good to your stomach/body. I know folks use it to kill off one's neighbourly barking menace and do so often. Apparently whilst very effective as dogs reportedly love the taste of it and gulp it down, it is not a nice way to go, dog or not. I imagine the consequences to human consumption aren't particularly nice either. Tell me, did it 'repeat' for a while?
Cheers, TB
#240
Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:55 PM
All good mate. The BBQ lunch and beers made it worth my while. As did the smile on your face after drving a Torana again LOL....
To drive it mate...it was just...well it releases one's inner six year old is all!
I mean, I got that often driving the SSV...well I should qualify that as we both know the VE wasn't driven all that often hence my neccessitating the need for jumper leads to always be at hand, but your Torrie is at another level again.
I can't describe it but it was just...well plain and simple, it was 'fun' - thank you mate.
Cheers, TB
#241 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:34 PM
.... my local suspension shop said Castrol EPL O grease was best suited. I can't find any, and to order it in I have to pay for two 5kg drums! I'll keep looking I guess...
Have you gone to Castrol in High Street Queanbeyan? They sell direct to the public. Bring your visa.
I got some auto trans fluid from there this morning.
#242
Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:15 PM
That's who I spoke with - nice fella but he can only order in minimum amounts, and for EPL O grease that means 2 x 5kg tins.
He suggested a few other places but we'll see how that goes given they have to special order in the same amounts unless they carry it themselves which appears unlikely - seems EPL O Grease isn't a very commonly stocked thing.
Thanks anyways and cheers, TB
#243 _AD_75_
Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:58 PM
Thanks AD - very kind of you.
This experience proves that yet again I have never had an original idea in my life, even if by misadventure.
To learn that two fellas have now owned up to swallowing something untoward whilst squirreling away at their car is heartening to know - I am an idiot yes, but not the sole silly-billy it seems - perhaps we should start a club...or even a forum maybe
But bloody hell, whilst I learned via the Poison Information Hotline and the MDS which I Googled that it can be life threatening if you get it into your lungs via coughing or vomiting, jeepers that coolant can't be good to your stomach/body. I know folks use it to kill off one's neighbourly barking menace and do so often. Apparently whilst very effective as dogs reportedly love the taste of it and gulp it down, it is not a nice way to go, dog or not. I imagine the consequences to human consumption aren't particularly nice either. Tell me, did it 'repeat' for a while?
Cheers, TB
Heheh..no repeat action as such but as for taste..ive had better. My mechanic mate and i actually had a laugh about it and he told me that he had also ingested a few nasty automotive chemicals over the years by accident..i guess it must be one those hidden dangers of the job. Anyway! onward with the build thread look forward to seeing more progress.
#244
Posted 19 January 2012 - 08:43 AM
I had no issues with my stub axles or caliper bracket.
I can also sympathise with you about swallowing stuff.
I used to work in an exhaust shop where we also fitted 4wd accessories, i lost count of the number of timed that i swallowed petrol when syphoning fuel from one tank to another after fitting long range fuel tanks. The worst bit isn't the taste it's the fact that it returns every time you burp for the next day or two.
#245
Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:17 PM
I figure that like the other bushes in the suspension system, the bolts on the anti-sway bar shouldn't be made tight until the car is at full weight and on its wheels otherwise the bushes in all the links might get chewed out some. Or have I figured incorrectly and it is fine to tighten everything up on the anti-sway bar?
On the rear K-Mac 'Bathurst Design' anti-sway bar set up; does anyone have photos to show how it all mounts up and/or any tips for the same please?
Whilst waiting for paint to dry on the anti-sway bar bits, I also spent the last couple of days cleaning up the grille - I only mention this because would you believe there are 106 rectangles in the SS grille? I know; I washed, then scrubbed, then sanded, then cleaned and then painted every one! Still, I think the result is pretty good - I still have to polish the alloy surround (ran out of Autosol). Here is the grille now pinned in place;
And yep - not happy with the position of the front spoiler either (too low) - more work to be done there to get it right and not sure how to tackle it save for taking some meat from the underside of the extension from the flair. If I don't do this, I can still mount the spoiler up higher under the grille but in profile the spoiler would then run uphill from the flair to the front if you get my meaning, and I think this would look ordinary - best to keep it level IMO. I just need to work out exactly how much and where to take some fibreglass out and this needs (for me) a bit of courage - the old measure one hundred times, cut once principle comes to mind - wish I observed it more than I have...
Finally, I have begun cleaning, servicing and re-painting my steering rack. Now, the steel bar between each rack end housing should be painted gloss black right? And the rack end housings should remain a plain alloy finish - right? If so, how do you get a consistent shade of alloy finish? I fear I won't ever because I used a wire wheel to clean the crap and paint off, and seemingly have 'disturbed' the surface whereby the finish will always be 'blotchy' if you get my meaning - see below;
Cheers, TB
#246 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:24 PM
Sandpaper is your friend if you want to get it perfect, start coarsish to take the orange peel off and work your way finer, then polish, or leave it at like 1500 if you prefer the "brushed" look.
Cheers.
#247 _mick74lh_
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:49 PM
Very awesome job too by the way.
#248 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:50 PM
Now you are familiar with the 160 rectangles and experienced, do you want another to do?
Happy to be corrected, but I don't think you'll have much problem tightening sway bar components unloaded, but happy to learn otherwise. They don't even include 'nylothane' grease with the sway bar bushes, so don't seem to be overly critical, heavily worked part of the suspension.
Front spoiler fitting. There are two panel bolts that fit through the top of the brake ducts in the front spoiler (goes through about three layers of nosecone/body panels. You fit those first and work everything else out from there. Front spoilers do fit lowish, and yup, you normally get plenty of practice repairing and fixing the buggers up. Yella is legal height, but yeah, you still get the odd accident with the front spoiler. If you want a hand, ring me. Trevor helped me fix mine, so he is another source for assistance.
From the photos looks like you can get the spoiler another 10-15mm higher. The bolts above the brake ducts in the nose cone will be holding it down a bit lower at the moment than it should normally sit (look for even amount of body around the top at the radiator intake). Also note headlight dish edges.
Headlight dishes should have silver edge, I don't like all black, but each to their own.
This is the only pic I can find at the moment. You can see from LH with the chrome smile (hands off hanra!) the concept of the equal edge around the radiator intake at the top of the spoiler. On LX this was simply blacked out, and chrome deleted, although most people leave it painted body colour.
Big bolts in brake ducts not visible up there ------------^. One in top of each.
P.S. Second nose cone coming soon with the letters, and will redo this one as well with the Torana sticker.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 01 February 2012 - 11:03 PM.
#249
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:57 PM
There is a u-bolt that goes around the factory shock mount bolt to bolt the K-MAC bracket to the diff (where the g-clamp is in the photo). The other end of the K-MAC bracket slips over the shock mount bolt and is held on by the shock nut.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 01 February 2012 - 11:06 PM.
#250
Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:24 AM
Great ideas but to be honest, I can't see myself spending all that time doing that but it would come up beautifully either way. You are right, it probably is fine but whilst the photos don;t do it justice, the alloy ends are blotchy - I think this is the result of the wire wheel having to be turned in different directions to get at everything and it has sort of 'laid' the surface in different directions causing the light to reflect in different ways.
Yella;
Thanks also for those tips, and the headlight surrounds aren't in the car - that is just the black of the rad support panel behind - I painted it all black because I wanted it black inside the grille.
ls2lxhatch:
Once againy ou've been a big help. I'd better have a closer look at my rear sway bar and confirm if it is a rear mount or front mount. If rear; you say it doesn't leave much room for the exhaust pipes - do you mean not enough full stop, or the pipes need some bending to fit, or is it possible to fit them but just a PITA to get them through?
Cheers, TB
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