Mac's reef was sealed most of the way, definately past the zoo.......but further along, just before the descent into Bungendore it was usealed.
Tyre Biter's Hatchback - ETA unknown...
Started by
Tyre biter
, Jul 05 2011 11:43 PM
505 replies to this topic
#152
_cruiza_
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:49 PM
Hi Graig
re suspension setup I have done a number of cars including my two of my own from mild to wild race car setups, the UC was a big improvement over the LX in handling, Quality shocks and good springs even more so, throw in sway bars, solid mounted rack even better, hard lower control arm bushes better again, solid sub-frame mounting better yet. going A9X setup better yet again adding negative camber to the rear end makes an improvement and so it goes on and on, how much of an improvement do you want, how much money have you got and how hard a ride would you put up with.
I have written a number of posts detailing some basic setups in the suspension forums have a look at those Toranamatt has details on some more extreme mods too if you want to go that way.
re suspension setup I have done a number of cars including my two of my own from mild to wild race car setups, the UC was a big improvement over the LX in handling, Quality shocks and good springs even more so, throw in sway bars, solid mounted rack even better, hard lower control arm bushes better again, solid sub-frame mounting better yet. going A9X setup better yet again adding negative camber to the rear end makes an improvement and so it goes on and on, how much of an improvement do you want, how much money have you got and how hard a ride would you put up with.
I have written a number of posts detailing some basic setups in the suspension forums have a look at those Toranamatt has details on some more extreme mods too if you want to go that way.
#153
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Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:02 PM
Thanks Michael,
I just plan on getting it back together and go from there but my thoughts were the pro's and con's of going UC UCA from the get go though my roller did come with a set of front and rear K-Mac anti-sway bars, front Pedders springs and even a set of adjustable trailing arms both of which I plan to fit.
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From the sound of it, the gain is noticeable despite retaining LX steering rack and arms, LX hubs, LX OEM rubber bushes all-round (new). Thanks for your advice - much appreciated.
Cheers, TB
I just plan on getting it back together and go from there but my thoughts were the pro's and con's of going UC UCA from the get go though my roller did come with a set of front and rear K-Mac anti-sway bars, front Pedders springs and even a set of adjustable trailing arms both of which I plan to fit.
.
From the sound of it, the gain is noticeable despite retaining LX steering rack and arms, LX hubs, LX OEM rubber bushes all-round (new). Thanks for your advice - much appreciated.
Cheers, TB
#154
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Posted 28 September 2011 - 06:06 PM
Hi TB looking great lots off hard work done , now the fun part starts putting it all together. I have a number for you to ring he calls himself Mr Screws his name is dino ,he has every nut bolt screw and clip you need ph number is 0425248848 i have just got a shitload off him and he is faily cheep to.
cheers sting
cheers sting
#155
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Posted 28 September 2011 - 06:20 PM
No worries Graig
if I was in your place I would keep everything LX as for the most part it is the same anyway between LH LX UC, some detail changes but nothing to get to worried about, stay with rubber bushes for now UC upper control arm in the higher mounting position with matching UC steering arms and LX rack solid mounted, get a mate or someone to spin up some alloy bushes for you
Doing this would give you the stronger suspension LH LX lower arms were made from thicker metal, a quicker steering rack but with out the looseness of rubber mounted and the better UC geometry. and yes if the K Mac bars are good then use them too
then later if you want you can develop it further without anything you have done so far being wasted
Cheers
if I was in your place I would keep everything LX as for the most part it is the same anyway between LH LX UC, some detail changes but nothing to get to worried about, stay with rubber bushes for now UC upper control arm in the higher mounting position with matching UC steering arms and LX rack solid mounted, get a mate or someone to spin up some alloy bushes for you
Doing this would give you the stronger suspension LH LX lower arms were made from thicker metal, a quicker steering rack but with out the looseness of rubber mounted and the better UC geometry. and yes if the K Mac bars are good then use them too
then later if you want you can develop it further without anything you have done so far being wasted
Cheers
#156
Tyre biter
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Posted 28 September 2011 - 09:14 PM
Thanks Brett - Glad you like it so far.
Is that fella Dino (Mr Screws) near Camden - just googled 'Mr Screws' and got a hit on a Camden address.
And yeah, the putting it together will be a long and expensive chore I imagine but I am also looking forward to it.
Thanks Michael - I just bought a set of UC UCM a couple of days ago following your recommendation amongst others.
So to be clear, I need to;
a) mount the horizontal UCM pivot bars higher (sorry don't know their proper name) - there was a thread here somewhere, and
solid mount my LX rack with some alloy bushes or find a UC rack AND the thinner bolts it needs, and
c) change the steering arms to UC regardless of what I do with the rack - or can I retain the LX steering arms until/if I get around to a UC rack?
I also need to sort how to fit the K-Mac bars - the rear one has me stuffed on how to fit to the tubular adjustable trailing arms I have - U-Bolts around them perhaps?
But what the heck - that is ages away yet!
Cheers, TB
Is that fella Dino (Mr Screws) near Camden - just googled 'Mr Screws' and got a hit on a Camden address.
And yeah, the putting it together will be a long and expensive chore I imagine but I am also looking forward to it.
Thanks Michael - I just bought a set of UC UCM a couple of days ago following your recommendation amongst others.
So to be clear, I need to;
a) mount the horizontal UCM pivot bars higher (sorry don't know their proper name) - there was a thread here somewhere, and
solid mount my LX rack with some alloy bushes or find a UC rack AND the thinner bolts it needs, and c) change the steering arms to UC regardless of what I do with the rack - or can I retain the LX steering arms until/if I get around to a UC rack?
I also need to sort how to fit the K-Mac bars - the rear one has me stuffed on how to fit to the tubular adjustable trailing arms I have - U-Bolts around them perhaps?
But what the heck - that is ages away yet!
Cheers, TB
#157
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Posted 28 September 2011 - 10:12 PM
Hi Graig
the following are what happens when you use the UC bits over LH LX
the UC Upper Control Arms (UCA) (personally I always think of them as wishbones but on this forum everyone calls them control arms) move the top ball joint further back then the LH LX ones do
Mounting the Upper Control Arm higher alters when the upper control arm will be level under suspension compression.
The UC steer arms lower the tie rod end compared to LH LX use these with UC upper control arms irrespective of what rack you use.
As for rear sway bar another option might be to ditch the K Mac and use a early commodore one which mounts from diff to floor of car rather then trailing arms, these are a more effective setup anyway
the following are what happens when you use the UC bits over LH LX
the UC Upper Control Arms (UCA) (personally I always think of them as wishbones but on this forum everyone calls them control arms) move the top ball joint further back then the LH LX ones do
Mounting the Upper Control Arm higher alters when the upper control arm will be level under suspension compression.
The UC steer arms lower the tie rod end compared to LH LX use these with UC upper control arms irrespective of what rack you use.
As for rear sway bar another option might be to ditch the K Mac and use a early commodore one which mounts from diff to floor of car rather then trailing arms, these are a more effective setup anyway
#158
_sting_
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Posted 28 September 2011 - 11:28 PM
Hi TB i think so give him a ring.
cheers sting
cheers sting
#159
Tyre biter
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Posted 30 September 2011 - 09:06 PM
How good is this - into paint tonight!
Wasn't supposed to be painted until tomorrow and so unfortunately wasn't there to see it - will do tomorrow.
Looks pretty good so far.
Cheers, TB
Wasn't supposed to be painted until tomorrow and so unfortunately wasn't there to see it - will do tomorrow.
Looks pretty good so far.
Cheers, TB
#163
a9x868
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maurice mead of hatchbacks
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Posted 30 September 2011 - 09:33 PM
looks great now the best part starts
putting it all back together
you must be very pleased
really gives you a buzz
putting it all back together
you must be very pleased
really gives you a buzz
#164
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Posted 30 September 2011 - 09:35 PM
Biggest kermit stiffy ever. So much for sending me pics mate. Simply stunning mate.........................
#165
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Posted 30 September 2011 - 09:41 PM
Thanks guys and Gerry - check your inbox.
Cheers, TB
Cheers, TB
#166
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 30 September 2011 - 09:59 PM
Just curious, but why did they paint it with all the panels on?
#167
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 07:25 AM
Yella,
I think is staying together because it is already painted on the inside, and because we need to mark blackouts so the doors need to be on the car to ensure they line up.
There might be more reasons but it's not something I have asked about - the painter (Jason Brown) has a great reputation and I am told that cars he has painted have won some significant awards;
A rudimentary search of Google shows two of them on the first page; ASCA website
So I am happy to let him do it how he thinks it should be done really.
Make no mistake, the doors will come off because the blackouts need to wrap around each end and also inside the B pillar before being cleared.
That is about all I know in answer to your question Yella - I can ask Jason if you'd like?
Cheers, TB
I think is staying together because it is already painted on the inside, and because we need to mark blackouts so the doors need to be on the car to ensure they line up.
There might be more reasons but it's not something I have asked about - the painter (Jason Brown) has a great reputation and I am told that cars he has painted have won some significant awards;
A rudimentary search of Google shows two of them on the first page; ASCA website
So I am happy to let him do it how he thinks it should be done really.
Make no mistake, the doors will come off because the blackouts need to wrap around each end and also inside the B pillar before being cleared.
That is about all I know in answer to your question Yella - I can ask Jason if you'd like?
Cheers, TB
#168
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 07:38 AM
WOW thats awesome you must be pleased ,well done.
cheers sting
cheers sting
#169
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 08:32 AM
Yeah, I'd be interested to know for my own knowledge.
I know the cars are painted together in factory, and they seem to paint most repairs cars these days largely intact, I know the VT was painted down one side largely intact, doors on.
It is easier to get everything lining up with the panels back on, having just done it the other way. Lots of fiddling about but not impossible.
Don't get me wrong though, does look good. Wish somebody would paint mine!
I know the cars are painted together in factory, and they seem to paint most repairs cars these days largely intact, I know the VT was painted down one side largely intact, doors on.
It is easier to get everything lining up with the panels back on, having just done it the other way. Lots of fiddling about but not impossible.
Don't get me wrong though, does look good. Wish somebody would paint mine!
Edited by Yella SLuR, 01 October 2011 - 08:33 AM.
#170
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 12:12 PM
Just went and had a look.
The car was being rubbed for blackouts and clear coat to follow, and so I didn't get to see it beforehand :(
The painter (Jason) said it was a really pity to have to rub it down like this, but it will come back nicely when the clear coat goes on.
Jason also commended Dave's panel and prep work with the body - reckons you need to see a $50K show car job job to see better, and so that was a feel good moment for me and for Dave too I am sure.
This was about the only part of the car that wasn't rubbed when I got there.
See what I mean about the colour not photographing well - the area towards the centre of the nose cone is a deep colour whereas the colour flattens over the headlight area.
Both are in reality brand new paint that is deep, shinny, wet looking and has 'kick' but the camera tells a different story unfortunately;
You can see the same effect here - the centre of the hatch is a different finish (on camera) than around it - go figure why this is the case...
Just some more odds and sods;
Black was going onto the bonnet and scoop later today, and then the car is being put aside until Monday week when it may well be finished off.
Oh, and Yella, I spoke with Jason about why he chose to paint the car with the doors on.
He said as I surmised; the door openings/apertures and the inside of the doors themselves are already in paint, and so it is just easier for him to do it this way for now.
The doors still have to come off, but this way he can paint it, rub it and then mask the blackouts easily as opposed to having to re-fit/align the doors before removing them yet again.
The doors will be clear coated off the car after blackouts are painted and rubbed, before being put back on for the last time - reduces a lot of mucking about. Had Dave given him a car where the openings and inside of the doors weren't painted then yes, it would have been doors off from the get go.
Cheers, TB
The car was being rubbed for blackouts and clear coat to follow, and so I didn't get to see it beforehand :(
The painter (Jason) said it was a really pity to have to rub it down like this, but it will come back nicely when the clear coat goes on.
Jason also commended Dave's panel and prep work with the body - reckons you need to see a $50K show car job job to see better, and so that was a feel good moment for me and for Dave too I am sure.
This was about the only part of the car that wasn't rubbed when I got there.
See what I mean about the colour not photographing well - the area towards the centre of the nose cone is a deep colour whereas the colour flattens over the headlight area.
Both are in reality brand new paint that is deep, shinny, wet looking and has 'kick' but the camera tells a different story unfortunately;
You can see the same effect here - the centre of the hatch is a different finish (on camera) than around it - go figure why this is the case...
Just some more odds and sods;
Black was going onto the bonnet and scoop later today, and then the car is being put aside until Monday week when it may well be finished off.
Oh, and Yella, I spoke with Jason about why he chose to paint the car with the doors on.
He said as I surmised; the door openings/apertures and the inside of the doors themselves are already in paint, and so it is just easier for him to do it this way for now.
The doors still have to come off, but this way he can paint it, rub it and then mask the blackouts easily as opposed to having to re-fit/align the doors before removing them yet again.
The doors will be clear coated off the car after blackouts are painted and rubbed, before being put back on for the last time - reduces a lot of mucking about. Had Dave given him a car where the openings and inside of the doors weren't painted then yes, it would have been doors off from the get go.
Cheers, TB
Edited by Tyre biter, 01 October 2011 - 12:18 PM.
#171
Toranavista
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 02:32 PM
Hi Craig. Looking great! Mint Julep is a personal favourite of mine. Looking forward to seeing your car cruising the streets of Canberra. 
#172
A9X
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 02:43 PM
FARKIN
LOUD !
LOUD !
Edited by A9X, 01 October 2011 - 02:43 PM.
#173
myss427
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 04:39 PM
Looks fantastic Craig! Wait till the black goes on, it will look twice as good.
#174
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Posted 01 October 2011 - 06:37 PM
looks excellent all coloured in now and i like the loudness too 
Edited by nial8r, 01 October 2011 - 06:38 PM.
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