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12 Port Injection manifold

Started by _Inj gtr202_ , Jul 13 2011 09:39 PM

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116 replies to this topic

#51 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 02:12 PM

Ok so by now I should be out giving this thing hell....but..... slight clearance issue.
Due to the extra crap attatched to the standard throttle body (that I don't need) it hits the inner frame of the bonnet.
Seeing as there is no particular due date in mind for the car to be running again I'm not gonna rush in and just make it fit.

soooo... I plan on making my own throttle body, cutting the plennum and squaring it up so that it sits horizontal hence giving me the bonnet clearance that is required.

Here is my progress on the new throttle body.

Started with a squared up block of ally
and drilled and bored where the throttle shaft will go. This one is going to be ball bearing shaft.

Posted Image

Then dialed it up in a 4 jaw chuck to turn the outer diam and bore out the inner.

Posted Image

Assembled and currently retro fitting the old TPS and working out how my throttle cable is going to be sprung and actuated.

Posted Image

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#52 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 02:21 PM

I'll throw is some pic's of the block and head as this is supposed to be a build thread not a mill and lathe thread

VK Manifold

Posted Image

My Manifold :banghead:

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#53 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 02:27 PM

Head

Block

B4 paint

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#54 _Viper_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 08:18 PM

wow man thats crazy cool, never seen anyone make their own throttle body! What sort of idle control are you going to use? EF Falcon 6cyl throttle bodies have a electronic idle stepper motor which may suit?

Is your throttle plate a perfect circle? or more of a oval.... of the few throttle bodies ive played with the plates are abit of a oval as are the bores I think... and I always wondered why? do you know if it matters or why some are slightly oval?

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#55 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 08:24 PM

So when it closes it seals properly.

Cheers.

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#56 _Viper_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 08:28 PM

So if the OD of the plate was the exact same as the ID as the TB it wouldn't seal? or is it cos it would just jam up?

I guess because its being rotated in the bore and not pushed in from the end it wouldnt work.

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#57 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 28 October 2011 - 08:32 PM

I think that if you didnt have your idle screw out far enough it would return either past center or jam up.

Pretty well every throttle plate i have seen whether in a TB or a carby has been oval, im just assuming this is why.

Cheers.

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#58 _Agent 34_

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Posted 29 October 2011 - 07:27 AM

Adam,

thanks for putting this up, it's a great information thread for people with less skill than you.

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#59 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 09:16 AM

Yes the throttle blades are slightly oval.
From memory I made the blade 0.05- 0.1mm bigger than the tb bore (which is round). Then filed by hand the sides and worked my round to that it seats nicely when shut. It does'nt shut perfectly vertical, for that to happen you would have to shape the ends to a knife edge or make them undersize.

My mate has an SR20 TB and I'm pinching a few pieces off that, any other suggestions as to what would make a good spring return or idle control I'm all ears.

Viper I'll have a look at the XF and see what its all about.

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#60 _Viper_

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 10:03 AM

EF

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#61 Shtstr

Formerly lcxu105

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 12:15 PM

hi man good looking job on the manifold, but what are you going to do about bonnet clearance??? Looks like your manifold will protrude through the bonnet????

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#62 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 09:54 AM

hi man good looking job on the manifold, but what are you going to do about bonnet clearance??? Looks like your manifold will protrude through the bonnet????

Looks worse than it is. With no trottle body attached the bonnet will shut, the very front just touches. So I'm going to give it about a 10mm hair cut as I'm squaring it all up to clear the throttle body.

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#63 orangeLJ

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Posted 02 November 2011 - 07:40 AM

How much clearance will there be with engine movement?

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#64 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:54 PM

How much clearance will there be with engine movement?

not much

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#65 rodomo

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 12:14 AM

not much

LOVE IT! That's the way I roll! :burnout:

And you can measure it with a micrometer! :spoton:

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#66 orangeLJ

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Posted 03 November 2011 - 07:50 AM

Solid mounts (or atleast nolathane tuff mounts) might be the way to go then! Youd hate to have it lift on a big rev and ding the bonnet.

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#67 warrenm

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Posted 04 November 2011 - 06:34 AM

Use a solid mount on the left & rubber on the right.

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#68 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:04 PM

As far as bonnet clearance is concerned am I right in assuming that because of the engines rotation it will always flex towards the passenger side? ie. looking at the front of the car its going to try twist clockwise?. Assuming the pivot point of rotation is between the engine mounts everything on the passenger side will actually be twisting downwards.

anyways..
got the throttle sorted. I ended up using the stuff off the original, but with a heavier return spring. (still yet to attach the idle screw)

Posted Image

Edited by Inj gtr202, 07 November 2011 - 03:05 PM.

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#69 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:11 PM

Cut the Plenum off again

Posted Image

Squared it up

Posted Image

Tac welded it this time to check

Posted Image

Never been so happy to hear the bonnet click shut :party:

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#70 rodomo

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:11 PM

Every action has an equal and opposite reaction.
The motor is going to want to tip in an opposite direction to the crank........................so anti-clockwise or towards the driver's side.

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#71 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:29 PM

Every action has an equal and opposite reaction.
The motor is going to want to tip in an opposite direction to the crank........................so anti-clockwise or towards the driver's side.

I would have thought the engine will want to rotate with the crank until acted upon by an outside force. ie, engine push clockwise, engine mounts push anti clockwise (with a bit of deflection)....... (runs outside to check the commodore)

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#72 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:38 PM

commodore tilts towards drivers side. :fighting:

should still be good for clearance :nada:

Edited by Inj gtr202, 07 November 2011 - 03:42 PM.

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#73 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 03:57 PM

Like rodomo said it'll want to tilt towards the drivers side under acceleration and towards the passenger side under engine braking.

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#74 Shtstr

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 11:25 AM

Best way to check the clearance is to get some soft clay or plasa sand ( steel the kids) and put it on top of the manifold at the highest point and close the bonnet. This will give you an exact read on how much clearance you have.
When i was running theses as race cars years ago we found that 2 solid mounts give you a loss in power not sure why but it did. So we changed the drivers side one back to rubber and solved all our problems. this allows some movement for vibration and dosen't shake the living shit out of everthing.
engine will want to twist towards the drivers side so you will need a solid mount on the passenger side to limit movement. That is what we run on the race cars.
This meant the all the torque of the engine was going through the cars chassie and drive line to the wheels and weight transfer to the rear far more efectively.

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#75 _Inj gtr202_

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Posted 10 November 2011 - 12:02 AM

Yeah I did the trick with the putty stuff, I have about 5 mm clearance.
cheers for the info on the solid mount. Could I just use ally? or will it be too soft? (If I end up needing one)