Hi Guys,
I recently placed an order for some parts from Rare Spares. Included in the order were two indicator bodies to suit the LC/LJ (part #2805205). I went to fit them to my car (LC) and struck a problem. The two fasteners that connect the indicator body to the front panel are moulded integrally within the plastic of the indicator body. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, but in this case there is no access at the back of one of side indicator body as the fastener disappears into a void, ie I cannot get my hand in there to get the included nut on the back of one of the fasteners, though the other side is fine as I can reach back in there. Originally there was a self tapping screw that went through this one hole on each indicator body.
Does anyone have a way ahead for this one before I return it to Rare Spares for a refund?
Also, In the same order was a 'Switch Ignition' also to suit an LC. I discovered that the switch I purchased (apparently to suit an LC) only has 5 pins on the back of it. The original underdash socket on my car has 6 slots for 6 pins.
As above, before I send this part back too, has anyone used this part with success?
I guess before I buy anything from Rare Spares in the future, I'll ask here to see what people think of their parts. I'm reserving my decision for the moment.
Cheers,
Mark
LC LJ Indicator body
Started by
_mob_
, Jul 15 2011 03:16 PM
13 replies to this topic
#2
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 04:22 PM
G'day Mark
If you look at your ignition switch wiring plug you should find one of the pin sockets is vacant (only 5 wires). I could be wrong but the original HB, LC & HK,T,G ignition switches probably only had 5 pins.
Cheers
Dave
If you look at your ignition switch wiring plug you should find one of the pin sockets is vacant (only 5 wires). I could be wrong but the original HB, LC & HK,T,G ignition switches probably only had 5 pins.
Cheers
Dave
#3
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 04:25 PM
Firstly my apologies if you have been muckedaround in anyway
I did a quick check into the indicator housing and I think you are correct, ourstock comes with 2 studs in each corner but according to the parts manual only1 side is a stud and the other is a 8G self tapping screw
just to check if it works I pushed the stud out, it isn't moulded in thematerial as you mentioned even though it may look like that, it should justpush out with a minor amount of force (long nose pliers worked for me) and idimagine you can reuse your original screw, our modern replacement screws fitinto the new hole perfectly with plenty of clearance to the edge to be able touse a regular pan head screw
we are going to look into why they were like this properly but that is a temporaryfix that I believe will get you out of trouble, I have a few screws that matchthe catalogues description if you need, they are 8g - 18 x 1/2" long
if someone knows what coating they were originally that would be great? Zincetc?
I did notice in the LJ catalogue that there was a body change in later models,the part number changed from 2805205 to 2823775 so perhaps there are 2different types and we have only so far made the 1 style, can you confirm whatmodel you have and if its amber or clear indicators? im assuming the onlychange was when they went to an amber indicator and the park light went intothe headlights that the bulb connector in the indicator base changed from 2pins to 1 pin, id imagine the housing was the same shape but as I mentioned wewill look into that further too
secondly with the ignition switch I was aware of a modification needed with HG Holden's that by the sounds of it may also need to be done to the LC's to be able to use any replacement switches other then a used genuine.
I am a ford guy and have never done this modification personally but the way itwas explained to me many years ago was that the HG Holden's changed from HK& HT in that they gained an extra (6th) pin, instead of having a single "ignition" pin they got 2, with only the availability of a 5 pin switch, to use it in a HG you have to splice the 2 cables in your loom onto the 1 pin on the switch otherwise the motor will crank over but not fire
its was explained to be a simple enough mod but if it does turn out to be thecase that LC is the same as HG (I assume so) then I apologise for the lack of information in informing you, I am going to work on changing the description we advertise these under so it doesnt happen again<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;">
I did a quick check into the indicator housing and I think you are correct, ourstock comes with 2 studs in each corner but according to the parts manual only1 side is a stud and the other is a 8G self tapping screw
just to check if it works I pushed the stud out, it isn't moulded in thematerial as you mentioned even though it may look like that, it should justpush out with a minor amount of force (long nose pliers worked for me) and idimagine you can reuse your original screw, our modern replacement screws fitinto the new hole perfectly with plenty of clearance to the edge to be able touse a regular pan head screw
we are going to look into why they were like this properly but that is a temporaryfix that I believe will get you out of trouble, I have a few screws that matchthe catalogues description if you need, they are 8g - 18 x 1/2" long
if someone knows what coating they were originally that would be great? Zincetc?
I did notice in the LJ catalogue that there was a body change in later models,the part number changed from 2805205 to 2823775 so perhaps there are 2different types and we have only so far made the 1 style, can you confirm whatmodel you have and if its amber or clear indicators? im assuming the onlychange was when they went to an amber indicator and the park light went intothe headlights that the bulb connector in the indicator base changed from 2pins to 1 pin, id imagine the housing was the same shape but as I mentioned wewill look into that further too
secondly with the ignition switch I was aware of a modification needed with HG Holden's that by the sounds of it may also need to be done to the LC's to be able to use any replacement switches other then a used genuine.
I am a ford guy and have never done this modification personally but the way itwas explained to me many years ago was that the HG Holden's changed from HK& HT in that they gained an extra (6th) pin, instead of having a single "ignition" pin they got 2, with only the availability of a 5 pin switch, to use it in a HG you have to splice the 2 cables in your loom onto the 1 pin on the switch otherwise the motor will crank over but not fire
its was explained to be a simple enough mod but if it does turn out to be thecase that LC is the same as HG (I assume so) then I apologise for the lack of information in informing you, I am going to work on changing the description we advertise these under so it doesnt happen again<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;">
Edited by BIGCAV, 15 July 2011 - 04:27 PM.
#4
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 04:49 PM
As Cav has already said, just push out the unwanted stud. Not the one on the earth strap though.
Reckon those little Chinese girls see there are two identical bolt holes and think both need to filled.
The LC shop manual (1969 vintage) shows the two ignition wires to the coil spliced together onto one pin on the ignition switch, hence only five pins needed.
Maybe this changed on the LC at the same time the HG was released.
BTW Cav, AFAIK the indicator body self tapping mounting screw is zinc plated. And yes the front indicators are different for ADR 10B cars (late 1972 onwards).
LC and LJ (pre ADR10B) with clear lenses had double filament bulbs and sockets for park lights in the indicators. Two wires in indicator loom.
LJ (ADR 10B) cars with amber front indicators had single filament bulbs and sockets as the park lights were relocated to the headlights. Single wire in indicator loom.
Reckon those little Chinese girls see there are two identical bolt holes and think both need to filled.
The LC shop manual (1969 vintage) shows the two ignition wires to the coil spliced together onto one pin on the ignition switch, hence only five pins needed.
Maybe this changed on the LC at the same time the HG was released.
BTW Cav, AFAIK the indicator body self tapping mounting screw is zinc plated. And yes the front indicators are different for ADR 10B cars (late 1972 onwards).
LC and LJ (pre ADR10B) with clear lenses had double filament bulbs and sockets for park lights in the indicators. Two wires in indicator loom.
LJ (ADR 10B) cars with amber front indicators had single filament bulbs and sockets as the park lights were relocated to the headlights. Single wire in indicator loom.
#5
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:02 PM
Thanks for the clarification S pack, i also tried to edit my post again to fix a few spelling mistakes, it looks like when i transfered it from word for spell check purposes into the forum post it has joined alot of words together and stuffed up some of the formatting.
See bellow for an image I also took from the lj parts catalogue
See bellow for an image I also took from the lj parts catalogue
#6
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:27 PM
Hi again Cav
I'm sure the plastic body is the same just different bulb holder, wiring and rubber boot.
I'm sure I've got both indicator types so will have a look and let you know.
I'm sure the plastic body is the same just different bulb holder, wiring and rubber boot.
I'm sure I've got both indicator types so will have a look and let you know.
#7
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:28 PM
...just push out the unwanted stud. Not the one on the earth strap though.
Reckon those little Chinese girls see there are two identical bolt holes and think both need to filled.
Hi Dave and Cav,
Alrighty, unwanted stud pushed out
... I'll refrain from making a comment about the Chinese girls and getting two holes filled 
The LC shop manual (1969 vintage) shows the two ignition wires to the coil spliced together onto one pin on the ignition switch, hence only five pins needed.
Maybe this changed on the LC at the same time the HG was released.
I'm looking at my LC shop manual and it shows 6 pins on the back of the starter assembly. I will check my car when I get it back from the trimmers on Monday.
Cheers,
Mark
#8
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:34 PM
Actually, just looking at the parts manual, without reference to my car since it's not here, the pin configuration on the switch from RS 'looks' to be a different layout to the connector attached to the loom. Cav or Dave, can you confirm this either way? Cav, would you like me to send you a picture from the LC workshop manual?
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
#9
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 06:39 PM
Actually, just looking at the parts manual, without reference to my car since it's not here, the pin configuration on the switch from RS 'looks' to be a different layout to the connector attached to the loom. Cav or Dave, can you confirm this either way? Cav, would you like me to send you a picture from the LC workshop manual?
Cheers,
Mark
Hi Mark
Can't help with a comparison I don't have a Rares ignition switch to check against an LC wiring connector.
If you can post a pic of the back of the switch I can compare it to an LC connector.
Cheers
Dave.
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Posted 15 July 2011 - 07:06 PM
Having another look at the LC wiring diagrams, the GTR and std Torana with the optional combined instrument cluster use only 5 of the 6 plugs in the ignition switch connector.
LC with the std instrument cluster (warning lamps) uses all 6 plugs. The difference between them is the Temp warning lamp wiring connects to the ignition switch.
So, maybe all LC ignition switches should have 6 pins not 5, as the October 1971 edition LC Parts Catalogue only lists one ignition switch for all LC Torana models.
LC with the std instrument cluster (warning lamps) uses all 6 plugs. The difference between them is the Temp warning lamp wiring connects to the ignition switch.
So, maybe all LC ignition switches should have 6 pins not 5, as the October 1971 edition LC Parts Catalogue only lists one ignition switch for all LC Torana models.
#11
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Posted 18 July 2011 - 10:21 AM
interesting, if someone has a copy of the manual that would be great
i have the switchs here but i do not have a plug to compare it against sorry, we are trying to get in contact with our torana wrecker but we havent had much luck lately
i have the switchs here but i do not have a plug to compare it against sorry, we are trying to get in contact with our torana wrecker but we havent had much luck lately
#12
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Posted 20 July 2011 - 11:36 PM
interesting, if someone has a copy of the manual that would be great
i have the switchs here but i do not have a plug to compare it against sorry, we are trying to get in contact with our torana wrecker but we havent had much luck lately
Hi Cav
I'll see if I can scan the wiring diagrams for you.
I can pop into Rares at Virginia on Saturday Morning and get Tony to grab out the ignition switches and check them out.
What Part No's do I need to ask for.
BTW, the LC/LJ plastic front indicator lamp bodies are the same part number for double and single filament bulbs.
The rubber boot at the back is the same for both types, two wire type carried over for single wire, unused hole for second wire is closed up.
Cheers
Dave.
#13
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Posted 22 July 2011 - 10:46 AM
Thanks for the offer Dave, the ignition switch is 7424302KIT
one of my colleagues Edan has been able to get in contact with our Torana wrecker so he is going down today to check them out, hopefully ill have ananswer when he gets back to save any hassles
cheers
one of my colleagues Edan has been able to get in contact with our Torana wrecker so he is going down today to check them out, hopefully ill have ananswer when he gets back to save any hassles
cheers
Edited by BIGCAV, 22 July 2011 - 10:47 AM.
#14
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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:35 AM
So, just to confirm, the indicator assembly does fit the lc with the temoval of the insert? I have just discovered that mibe is broken in two :(
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