Hi Guys, I recently swapped over my standard LJ fuel tank with an XU-1 Fuel tank, and since I put in my new tank the car will not start...(however i hadn't tried starting it in a while prior to that, so the problem may well have existed before).
The engine tries to start, but will not fire.
I dont think the new tank is causing my issue whatsoever, but thought I would mention it, just in case there is something I need to check up on...There is certainly plenty if fuel getting to the carby!!!!
Anyway, my coil is new, I swapped the points, new condenser have new plugs. When I put a voltmeter on the Coil there is definitely power going out of it so I assume there is something wrong with my dizzy as there is no spark coming out of the ignition leads. After swapping the points and the condenser, I am at a loss at what I should do. Everything was working fine up untill recently...Is there something else that it could be, like a fuse or wiring issue?
Thanks in advance for any help, its much appreciated!!!
^^^^^ Also try swapping back your condenser. Last year I fitted a brand new Bosch condenser (has a green lead instead of black), new plugs, points and leads. Couldn't get the engine to start, would kick but not start. Rechecked everything, eventually put the old condenser back in, pulled the plugs out, let the cylinders dry out for a few hours, put the plugs back in and she fired up first go.
May not be the same as your problem but could be worth a try.
When I say tries to start, what i mean is the engine kicks but wont fire. There is no spark at the plugs whatsoever from what I can tell.
Yer, have re-checked the points 3 times already, firstly checked the spacer between and made sure they werent closing up (which they werent), then I put in a new set of points today to make sure the other one hadn't burnt out or coroded.
The condenser in there is about one month old, but I took it out this afternoon and put in my old one anyway and that didn't make a difference. I might just buy another one but the old one was working when I swapped it so I doubt its that.
No Worries S Pack, will definitely give that a go...Will try that also Quagmire cheers, although I can see lots of fuel in the carbie...
The easiest way to check ya ign is to put a test light on the negative side of the coil,if it dont pulse as ya crank then the points are not breaking,and if ya have nothing check the positive side for power.
Have also seen an open circuit coil to dizzy lead totally kill a frord,and the other thing is does you coil have a primary circuit ?
Primary circuit is the low voltage side of the coil between the positive and negative terminals,secondry is the HT (high tension) circuit ie the the centre or coil lead
Turn the ignition on and with a screwdriver manually open and close the points. Is there a spark across the contacts?
If no then as above check the primary side wiring.
If yes then refit the cap and rotor and remove the coil ht lead at the cap side. Hold it a few mm from a good engine ground and get someone to crank the engine. It's should display a strong bluish spark not a weak yellow one or nothing at all.
If it's not there then lift up the dizzy cap and check if the carbon bush is in place.
If it's there but weak then check point gap, condensor, and rotor/cap for cracks and carbon tracking.
The coil divides the primary and secondary ignition circuits and its a good point to start diagnosis.
I found when installing points and setting at 16thou would not start so after trying a few things a mate turned up and asked if i cleaned points with cloth and thinners between the points,i hadn's so i got a rag with thinners on it and pushed it between points with a butter knife and put cap and rotor back on and it fired first kick.
some makers put a protective coating on them and you need to clean them
Craig: I had the ignition on, (not turning over the engine but having the keys on ignition), manually opened and closed the points, no spark across the contacts. Primary side Wiring???
Removed coil high tension lead, no spark whatsover when I kicked it over holding it to earth.
Carbon bush appears to be in place (from what I can tell)?
Also, put in new distributor cap today and just to be sure bought another condenser and put that in...still nothing...
Put the voltmeter on the coil, when it is on positive and earth it puts out 12 volts, but on negative and earth its a bit weaker, swaying around 3-4 volts....
Could it be the Coil??? I thought those readings suggested it was fine...
Definitely no spark at all on the leads or no spark from the HT lead coming out of the coil....
The fact that there is some voltage at the coil negative means that some current is flowing in the primary windings of the coil.
Hutches suggestion of using the test light is a good idea as it will react quickly unlike your multimeter.
Put the meter on resistance setting and measure from the screw that holds the points in to a ground on the engine. Should be close to zero. If not check that the dizzy clamp is clean and that the copper braid earth wire between the advance plate and dizzy body is in place as is the insulator around the wire that connects points to coil -ve is in good condition and not shorting to ground.
The other tool that is handy for quick and easy ignition tests beyond the dizzy is a timing light (preferably inductance type connector) - you can check all the leads in turn to see whether each plugs is firing with everything connected
Hi Guys, Im 99% sure its the coil thats the issue. Did the 'coil test' as found on youtube ( ), and there was no spark whatsoever on my new coil. Got my old one and tried the same thing, and there was one faint yellow spark that came across once that was weak. So I assume the old coil is more or less dead, and the new one, well that must be too. Shame I didn't keep my receipt ffs, bought that from Repco only a month back!
I bought a new coil today, and just thought i'd ask if there is anything I need to be careful with when putting in the new coil, like how I connect it etc, because i find it odd that the new one just died like that...
I took note of the "Use with external resistor" on my new coil, what exactly does this mean?
Cheers!
I took note of the "Use with external resistor" on my new coil, what exactly does this mean?
It means that you need to have either the factory fitted resistance wire hooked up correctly (will be if the wiring is original), or a ballast resistor (commonly used in other makes). Otherwise you'll cook the coil.
Hi Guys, Im 99% sure its the coil thats the issue. Did the 'coil test' as found on youtube ( ), and there was no spark whatsoever on my new coil. Got my old one and tried the same thing, and there was one faint yellow spark that came across once that was weak. So I assume the old coil is more or less dead, and the new one, well that must be too. Shame I didn't keep my receipt ffs, bought that from Repco only a month back! I bought a new coil today, and just thought i'd ask if there is anything I need to be careful with when putting in the new coil, like how I connect it etc, because i find it odd that the new one just died like that... I took note of the "Use with external resistor" on my new coil, what exactly does this mean? Cheers!
Yes, that coil test is fine. If your old coil is giving a little spark and your new one is giving nothing then there is a problem with your new coil. Ive done similar tests and found the spark looked weak but ran the car fine, it very much depends on the conditions you have.
However, you did report that when you measured the voltage across the coil when the points were closed? that you got 12V at the +ve terminal and 4V at the -ve terminal. Giving that the engine wasnt running, Im assuming this was battery voltage. If you still have the original resistance ignition wire in place you should only be getting about 8V on the +ve side of the coil with the points closed.(it should be 12V on both terminals of coil with points open) - or did you infact just do this test with a hotwire from the battery?
The fact that you have +4V on the neg side of the coil(should be 0V) with the points closed(or was this you simply grounding the -ve of the coil?) indicated some problem in the connection going to the points/wire and or grounding of distributor body(rare/, the +12V on the +ve side could be due to this resistance being signficantly bigger than the ballast wire in the ignition, or that the resistance wire has been removed.
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