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Chopping an LH/LX/UC heater box


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#1 _dirtbag_

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 11:58 PM

Hi all. I've had a few messages in regards to the heater box I cut down for my brothers hatch. Well another forum member (I wont say who in case he doesn't want to be associated with me, as I'm an idiot) asked if I could do one for him. I thought I'd make a bit of a step by step guide of what I do, even though I'm sure there's already info in this site about how to do it. It's late and I can't sleep, so what the hell : )


Here's the heater box as it arrived.


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First thing I do is grind down the rivets so I can remove the vent inside.


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This heater box had a lot of sealer on it, so next job was to remove it.


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It also had sealer around where the motor mounts. It doesn't matter that it's there for cutting the box down, but it's annoying so I removed it.


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After that I trimmed a few of the little gussets off, to make doing the filler work a lot easier after the glassing has been done.


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I use a 1mm cutting disc to rim the little gussets out.


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After that I sand the area I'm going to be modifying with 120 grit dry, inside and out.


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Next job is to mark out where you want to cut. This depends on how much clearance you want to make. I'm doing the same cut I did on my brothers car to clear the LS1 as this car is also LS powered.


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I made a board so I can screw the heater box to so when I cut and glass the box it keeps its shape. I don't think it's 100% necessary to do this, but I felt it was worth the effort when doing my brothers car as I wanted it to be perfect. Luckily I've still got the board so will use it again. It's just 19mm MDF with the inner shape of the heater box cut into it with a jigsaw. This allows me to mount the heater box to the board but have full access to the inside to do the glassing.


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I'm cutting at the base of the thick radius that goes around the edge, so when I glass it back together it will still have the nice rounded edge.


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Here's the view inside when mounted to the board. Plenty of room to fibreglass it back together.


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Chop chop : )


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Because I'm going for a fairly hefty chop on this one, I've marked out just under the radius and will cut the whole side section off.


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Then it's just a matter of cutting the pieces to get them to sit the best you can. It doesn't have to be perfect at this stage, as fibreglass and filler can do wonderful things : )


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Tape it all into position so it can't move, and also make sure it's sealed so the resin doesn't come out the top and make a mess.


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There's a few gaps here, but the fibreglass will make short work of them.


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I'm not a fibreglasser by any means, so to make sure I didn't take too long after mixing the resin I cut all the matting beforehand. I cut a few different sized pieces and tried them in place to make sure I had everything I needed once the resin was mixed up.


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When I did my brothers one I was told to use a syringe to mix the catalyst. I had a lot of trouble finding one big enough and ended up getting one from the vet : )


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The resin I use is mixed with either 1% or 2% catalyst. Because it's been a bit chilly I went with 2%.

I also donned some sexy gloves. I hate getting sticky resin all over me!


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I'm not sure if it's the right thing to do, but after cleaning the heater box with acetone I paint a thick layer of resin on first before laying on any matting. I feel it helps get into the nooks a bit better.


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After 3 layers it looked like this


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Once dried and unscrewed, there were a few spikey bits that needed sanding off.


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Peel off the tape. I then gave it a quick sand down with a 36 disc on the grinder to smooth out any lumpy bits.


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Then ice the cake : ) Obviously I don't ice cakes for a living, but you can see here how much easier it is by cutting those little gussets off at the start.


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This shows the slimmer profile.


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Still plenty of room for air to still travel inside.


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Looks a bit "killer whale" : )


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Then prime it up.


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That's it really. Obviously you can cut it to any shape you want/need, but that's the basic process I use.

Hope that's of some help to someone???

Edited by dirtbag, 16 August 2011 - 12:04 AM.


#2 dattoman

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 12:03 AM

Now flop a mold off them and just make them out of glass

Mass produced

From the dirtbag range of Torana parts and accessories

#3 _Quagmire_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 12:16 AM

Now flop a mold off them and just make them out of glass

Mass produced

From the dirtbag range of Torana parts and accessories


sssssshhhh you eyidowt
you order one
and do that yourself.......
gees has capitialism taught you nuthin?
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only joking guys
nice how to

#4 _dirtbag_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 12:22 AM

hahaha you guys are funny.

However the main point of a how to is so you can do it yourself and not pay anything : )

#5 dattoman

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 01:38 AM

I used to be a fibreglasser
And have some molds
I was going to start making some parts when I get time
I also contacted Wilsons about buying his Torana molds

If its something people want I could think about making it
Better than deleting it...I think the bay looks bare and ugly with it missing

#6 GML-31

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 06:43 AM

Tim silly question but how does the glass stick to the plastic, when i did fibreglassing we used ice cream buckets so the unused resin could just be peeled out after it dried?

#7 _dirtbag_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 08:07 AM

I agree Neil, the firewall looks weird with nothing there. Especially seeing as the other side usually still has a brake booster anyway.

Kev, I sand the plastic with 120 to key it in. It gives the resin something to hang on to. I also give it a fair soak with acetone first to clean away anything loose on the surface. Seems to work : )

#8 _Leakey_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 08:52 AM

Kev, I can answer that. Ice cream containers are usually polypropylene, or a mix there of.
The other name for polyprop is 'poly unstickable'! It's also good for hinging, in that it can form
integral hinges. The lids on your shampoo bottles that flip up are usually a derivative of polyprop too.

The air cowl is more than likely a derivative of ABS, which does not have the same 'slippery' properties of the above.

So, the fibre glass sticks to it.

#9 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 08:55 AM

came up good :buttrock:

I think the forums need a sub forum called " DIY MODS & FABRICATION " that way when people post stuff like this it can be found very easy on the site ......

All those in favour ??? :dontknow:

#10 _j7723_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 09:06 AM

How about a sub forum called DIRTBAG :buttrock:

again tim top work mate

#11 dattoman

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 09:54 AM

came up good :buttrock:

I think the forums need a sub forum called " DIY MODS & FABRICATION " that way when people post stuff like this it can be found very easy on the site ......

All those in favour ??? :dontknow:



Err.. we have a fabrication section already

#12 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 12:41 PM


came up good :buttrock:

I think the forums need a sub forum called " DIY MODS & FABRICATION " that way when people post stuff like this it can be found very easy on the site ......

All those in favour ??? :dontknow:



Err.. we have a fabrication section already


yes yes i know this Datto :surrenderwave: maybe a "DIY" section then :nada:

#13 _dirtbag_

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Posted 16 August 2011 - 04:33 PM

I considered posting this in the fabrication section, but if there's no welding, it's not fabrication : )

#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 18 August 2011 - 04:39 PM

mmmm might try this on a old hq-z style one and see how it looks
cheers for the idea big ears :)

#15 _dirtbag_

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:08 PM

I figure I may as well post the last bit of this in here.

After priming it got a nice smooth sand down in readiness for some shiny stuff.


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Then some gloss black.

I gave the inside a quick squirt just for fun.


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Of course there has to be a couple of stupid reflection shots : )


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OK, that's it : )

#16 its Paul

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:24 PM

Tim thats awesome, except for the last two photos, I can see a smudge.

#17 _nial8r_

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 04:52 PM

:spit:

looks good, love the look of a gloss black finish.

#18 Ruts

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Posted 06 September 2011 - 04:30 PM

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Hey Tim you need to get yourself a booth because you always seem to get a bit of crap in the paint.

JUST KIDDING BUDDY, LOVE YOUR WORK AS ALWAYS

Ruts

#19 jonesy

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 09:21 PM

whats the best primer and paint to use for this project?

#20 _dirtbag_

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Posted 10 March 2012 - 11:17 PM

Hi Jonesy. I just used protec 2pac primer filler and protec 606 top coat. You could also do it in acrylic. The main thing is to sand the plastic properly to key the paint to the plastic. I've seen plenty of heater boxes painted with spray cans that came up OK.

#21 jonesy

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 07:06 AM

Cheers dirt

#22 A9X

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 10:36 AM

magic, top stuff mate

#23 _Hornet01_

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Posted 29 December 2015 - 12:24 PM

Hi dirt bag was wondering if u are interested in modifying my heater box for me please . I live in Melbourne Vic . Regards Tony.

#24 lazyh

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 01:06 PM

hi guys ,

i cant manage to to open up any of these pics is there a problem with me or cant they b opened anymore, not super savvy with these things

. cheers all



#25 Cook

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 03:05 PM

Hi Andrew, I'm guessing its not you, it's the photobucket issue.  Cheers Ron






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