Engine/K-Frame Removal
#26
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:00 PM
image.jpg 114.39K 13 downloads
image.jpg 117.82K 11 downloads
#27 _LC2door4_
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:16 PM
#28
Posted 17 May 2014 - 05:38 PM
Plenty of room under there Blair,
Great Job. Dave I
This is how I did my LC, I made a frame that bolts in where the bumper mounts go. I personally wouldn't lift it from any of the panel work.
#29
Posted 17 May 2014 - 07:01 PM
Gave you a Like Button for the Lifting Method Blair
I made a frame that bolts in where the bumper mounts go.
#30 _LC2door4_
Posted 09 June 2014 - 05:04 PM
Ended up getting my front-end out this arvo. Just used engine crane attached to bonnet catch, seemed pretty rock-solid. 2 mounting points probably would have been smarter, but I lived to tell the tale
Got the crane from Supercheap for $199, pretty good deal I reckon. 1.25t max capacity, worked like a charm. Was going to hire one, but better value to buy one at this price.
Cheers,
Jules.
Attached Files
#31
Posted 09 June 2014 - 05:13 PM
Hi Jules,
just put two car stands where the front of the rear diff lead arm pivot are, one on each side, take the back wheels off and place them in the boot,
with all the other bits disconnected, the Little Torana just tilts up by hand.
Done this plenty of times
#32
Posted 09 June 2014 - 05:15 PM
good job done in any case
#33
Posted 09 June 2014 - 05:21 PM
#34
Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:19 PM
I used the ramps as well, works well, use the wheels as the pivot point.I preferred placing my rear wheels on car ramps. If the body slipped off those car stands while the front was a mile in the air it could be disastrous.
Used one of the supercheap cranes attached to a 6X2 behind the rad support running laterally under the chassis rails.
This method allowed the K frame mounted engine assembly to be positioned between the nose of the car and the lift crane.
Lift high enough to wheel the whole assy under the nose, drop down to bolt up the K frame.
Worked for me as I did this fit up without an assistant.
#35 _Lazarus_
Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:55 PM
So with the gearbox bolted up you are allowing the sump resting on the X member to support the rear of the motor and the box ?
I'm talking about big Toranas here.
#36
Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:57 PM
#37
Posted 10 June 2014 - 07:54 AM
No, not good on the sump. Get the body in place then set up the engine and box sitting on whatever so it is separately supported and not stressing anything (preferably on something with casters so you can wheel it out easy). Then lift body overSo with the gearbox bolted up you are allowing the sump resting on the X member to support the rear of the motor and the box ?
#38
Posted 11 June 2014 - 03:09 PM
Used a similar method to Brad.
When wheeling the whole assembly under the car I used a skateboard under the gearbox.
That little skateboard has been invaluable in my build as 90% of the time its been a solo effort, fuel tank positioning, diff it has been a big asset.
Worked for me...
Most important when you are doing this only do it if you are confident, safe and know the whole thing isnt going to fall off stands or lift points.
DSC03236X.JPG 144.64K 9 downloads
assembled in K frame
DSC03274E.JPG 149.84K 8 downloads
ready to drop
DSC03272E.JPG 134.33K 16 downloads
skateboard used to assist positioning assembly
nose lift.JPG 127.41K 18 downloads
shows the 6X2 lift point I mentioned before in a previous reply
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