What you say makes sense S Pack.
I'd be setting up an equi distant string line down each side of the car and take some measurements with the wheels off. I reckon you'll find it much quicker and certainly easier than pulling parts on and off.
Such a good looking build, keep at it, solve the problem and all this will be a distant memory once you start driving it.
Front Suspension Problem LC GTR
Started by
_Macka_
, Sep 24 2011 08:40 PM
61 replies to this topic
#52
_Macka_
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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:01 PM
Funny you say that. Yes wheels are right l checked that tonight thinking had I buggered that up. I had this problem before i put the drop stubs on. They only come in one setting and they looked identical. They are also interchangeable and can go on left or right wheel. Yes when I dropped the crossmember to get the upper control arm out it went back no worries. I will swap lower control arms over tomorrow night. If this doesn't do anything then at least I can eliminate the new second hand control arm as an issue.
Craig so you mean like a plum bob thingy From the top of the guard and then measure the distance between the line and the stub axle?
<br /><br /><br /><br />What you say makes sense S Pack. <br /><br />I'd be setting up an equi distant string line down each side of the car and take some measurements with the wheels off. I reckon you'll find it much quicker and certainly easier than pulling parts on and off. <br /><br />Such a good looking build, keep at it, solve the problem and all this will be a distant memory once you start driving it.<br />
Craig so you mean like a plum bob thingy From the top of the guard and then measure the distance between the line and the stub axle?
#53
S pack
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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:01 PM
Just looking back at the close up pics of the left and right lower control arms.
I noticed it appears the disc rotor on the passenger side sits closer to the caliper mounting pad than the rotor on the drivers side.
Maybe just a camera angle thing
Another thing you could try if your keen to pull it all apart again is fit the original stubs back on and see what you get.
Taking measurements as Craig has said will be easier though.
I noticed it appears the disc rotor on the passenger side sits closer to the caliper mounting pad than the rotor on the drivers side.
Maybe just a camera angle thing
Another thing you could try if your keen to pull it all apart again is fit the original stubs back on and see what you get.
Taking measurements as Craig has said will be easier though.
Edited by S pack, 04 October 2011 - 10:10 PM.
#54
_Macka_
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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:09 PM
<br /><br /><br /><br />Just looking back at the close up pics of the left and right lower control arms. <br />I noticed it appears the disc rotor on the passenger side sits closer to the caliper mounting pad than the rotor on the drivers side.<br /><br />Maybe just a camera angle thing <img src='http://www.gmh-toran...lt/dontknow.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
Thanks I haven't looked at that so will measure tomorrow.
#55
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Posted 04 October 2011 - 10:28 PM
swap the wheels left to right
thatll eliminate one variable
thatll eliminate one variable
#56
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 05 October 2011 - 06:13 AM
Just looking back at the close up pics of the left and right lower control arms.
I noticed it appears the disc rotor on the passenger side sits closer to the caliper mounting pad than the rotor on the drivers side.
Maybe just a camera angle thing
Another thing you could try if your keen to pull it all apart again is fit the original stubs back on and see what you get.
Taking measurements as Craig has said will be easier though.
you may be able to just fit one original stub to the right hand side and see if it moves the wheel back inside the guard.
#57
_CraigA_
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Posted 05 October 2011 - 05:44 PM
Get four jack stands, place one at each corner of the car about 200mm from the front/rear/side and run a string line between them. Basically you need to make a rectangle parallel to the side and front of the car. Use common reference points at each point and measure carefully to make sure it's right.
Now just pick some suspension reference points. Upper control arms should measure even to each side. The distance to the end of each stub should be identical
Check other points until you find your problem.
Now just pick some suspension reference points. Upper control arms should measure even to each side. The distance to the end of each stub should be identical
Check other points until you find your problem.
#58
_Macka_
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Posted 08 October 2011 - 07:23 PM
Well after all that it appears that it was the actual body. Today l did some measurements with the cross member and hubs etc and there was no doubt that everything was good after changing the upper and lower control arm. I then set up the radius rod to 15/16 as per manual, and set up the toe in by eye. Once l did that we were closer but still not right. Then did a few measurements from chassis to outer guard. There was a 5-6mm difference. After a lot of looking and discussion it appeared that the drivers side guard was a different shape to that of the passenger. So we decided to apply some force and pull it out by hand and this is what happened. We may need to still pull it in more. But we think with new brake set up that will bring track in 14mm and also ever so slightly rolling the inner guards with some heat and a proper guard roller we will get there. Although we know there is always the risk that it might go pear shaped but l am willing to take the risk. The jack in the photos is not holding the car up. Thanks for all the advice once again invaluable.
#59
_CraigA_
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Posted 08 October 2011 - 07:28 PM
Goods news. At least you did correct some other issues along the way to finding the solution.
What a top looking GTR. Very rarely do later wheels suit older cars but to me that's perfect.
What a top looking GTR. Very rarely do later wheels suit older cars but to me that's perfect.
#60
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Posted 08 October 2011 - 10:30 PM
Goods news. At least you did correct some other issues along the way to finding the solution.
What a top looking GTR. Very rarely do later wheels suit older cars but to me that's perfect.
+1
Hey Macka, you shouldn't need to apply heat to roll the front guard lips.
Did mine, with no damage to the paint, with a rag, some masking tape, a block of wood and a urethane headed mallet.
Just have to work the lip over slowly and keep moving along with each bump.
#61
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Posted 08 October 2011 - 10:53 PM
Just out of interest what measurements did you get when you first measured from the chassis rail to the face of the guard wheel arch?
390mm on the passenger side and 384/385mm on the drivers side (measured directly above the centre line of the stub axle)?
Cheers
Dave.
390mm on the passenger side and 384/385mm on the drivers side (measured directly above the centre line of the stub axle)?
Cheers
Dave.
#62
_Macka_
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Posted 09 October 2011 - 09:13 AM
<br /><br /><br /><br />Just out of interest what measurements did you get when you first measured from the chassis rail to the face of the guard wheel arch?<br />390mm on the passenger side and 384/385mm on the drivers side (measured directly above the centre line of the stub axle)?<br /><br />Cheers<br />Dave.<br />
Um I think so?? Was more caught up in the difference however I am fairly sure that was it. I tightened the radius rods, shimmed it up more and evened up the toe in/out. Then we applied some force. I pulled on the wheel arch while someone else pushed the bottom of the panel in. Did it gently but we certainly got 5mm or so. So now they are close. So with new brake set up that will bring track in 14mm each wheel and then maybe a light roll of the inner guard lip if we need more. So l am confident we are home, fingers crossed.
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