FRANKENSTEIN
#51 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 02 October 2011 - 10:58 PM
#52
Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:02 PM
#53 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:20 PM
#54 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 05:48 PM
Should be a treat Brodo.
Cheers.
#55 _LXSS350_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:49 PM
Great to see an innovative project.
Rationalisation depends on your usage (track/street), but for the street IMO there is not too much advantage for all the cost/drama's. For track use (like this one) its another matter. The reality is that the Toranas suspension/geometry is extremely poor even when using the best setup.
Reality check is that doing a frankenstein the results can go either way.
Getting the geometry and balance between the new front and new rear will make it either a big success or absolute nightmare.
Be watching to see how it works out.
#56 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:58 PM
Cheers.
#57 _wblje_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 06:59 PM
#58
Posted 03 October 2011 - 07:02 PM
Should be a mad track torodore when your finished.
#59 _jabba_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 08:11 PM
*runs and hides*
But seriously, i just love watching these projects. It reminds me of the silvia/morris (i think) conversion someone did. Cut the silvia body off the floor, replace with morris body. Instant handling old car with 1000's of bolt on parts available. Pitty it could never be rego'ed, or id do something very similar .
#60
Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:39 PM
A couple of things to consider?
I bought the rolling VQ shell with hang on's for $195.
I don't think I could have bought a rolling rust free Torana front cut for that?
I've also done a bit of research re strut V double wishbone.
1979 A9X Bathurst qualifying was 1 second quicker than 1980 VB Commodore with struts.
Not bad over a 6k circuit and the VB wasn't IRS.
If my memory is correct, HDT struggeled initially with the strut front end as they had no reference.
The european shells weren't running V8's.
Surely the increase in track front and rear will be a bonus too?
Having said all that, I'm happy
This is where it was up to last night but too late for good pics.
While the front was up on it's nose, I trimmed the floor pan to suit the Torana sills.
I'd left about 25mm of the Torana pan in along the sills.
I then notched out "V"s at the base of the Torana firewall and slid the whole assy in.
The firewalls are getting closer to each other and some more trimming is happening.
Tonight I drilled out a squillion spot welds of the sides of the Commy strut tower braces...................LH removed, RH tomorrow night then hopefully more pics.
Attached Files
#61 _jabba_
Posted 03 October 2011 - 09:45 PM
#62
Posted 03 October 2011 - 10:25 PM
#63
Posted 04 October 2011 - 03:13 AM
If you didn't have a Torana front end to put in it then the Commodore conversion is logical, and at least you know it all works together and is nothing completely untested. A coilover conversion is suddenly very easy too!
Although as pointed out the IRS isn't exactly an ideal system its gotta be some way ahead of the factory Torana rear end. I don't think the alignment would be as much of an issue here as it is with a Commodore because you'll be able to install it at the correct height to begin with (no camber correction required) and I'd imagine there will be a little less suspension travel to induce dynamic changes in the Torana too.
You've obviously done your homework with the cutting, its cool how well everything seems to match up.
Disclaimer: all of this is just my opinion and you know what that's worth! Whatever way you look at it the handling has to come out pretty reasonable, and its a cool project.
#64
Posted 04 October 2011 - 09:15 AM
You've obviously done your homework with the cutting, its cool how well everything seems to match up.
Gonna take alot of mig wire to fill that gap in the firewall tho.
#65 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:04 PM
My advice is to set the springs, shocks, sway bar and ride height as he sees fits and to turn they tyres on the rims after each meet to minimise tyre damage. Turning the tyres means to flip the tyre on the rim so the inside egde is mounted to the outside for those who were about to ask.
#66
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:11 PM
#67 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:22 PM
#68
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:10 PM
Installing some suspension points and setting them to get the geometry where you want might have been easier wouldnt it?
Please don't take this as a criticism. It is certainly not meant that way. I have thought about grafting front commodore struts onto a torana to get a better system, but think it is too ambitious for me to attempt.
cheers
Glenn
#69
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:17 PM
Good point, I just assumed (hehe that word) that was just sitting there not actually close to final position. I would certainly be attempting to lift that floor higher so it all sits right.Based on the images in the OP, it's way too bloody low to get decent tyre wear.
#70 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 02:32 PM
Given that you clearly have far more knowledge than I do to even attempt this, would it not have been easier to graft on the suspension points rather than the whole front and back end?
Installing some suspension points and setting them to get the geometry where you want might have been easier wouldnt it?
Please don't take this as a criticism. It is certainly not meant that way. I have thought about grafting front commodore struts onto a torana to get a better system, but think it is too ambitious for me to attempt.
cheers
Glenn
Given the height difference in the hump in the floor pan where the diff goes, I doubt it. Without measuring it, I would think the Commodore I.R.S. mounts would've been welded to thin air in the back of the UC. And as for improving the geometry, using a different I.R.S. is the only practicable way to achieve that. But that would greatly increase the cost of the project. Which I think would defeat the main purpose of the car.
#71 _cruiza_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 07:41 PM
#72 _L32M20_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:01 PM
#73 _CHOPPER_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:18 PM
#74 _cruiza_
Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:26 PM
So go the crazy bugger, go Rodomo
#75
Posted 04 October 2011 - 08:31 PM
turn they tyres on the rims after each meet to minimise tyre damage. Turning the tyres means to flip the tyre on the rim so the inside egde is mounted to the outside for those who were about to ask.
I'd have to swap them left to right on the rims as they are directional.
1-2 degrees neg. camber is what I'm aiming for on the rear and 0-1mm toe in. Front will run 3-4 degrees neg.
It's not a road car.
I haven't looked too hard at it but if I have to move the rear arm mounts, I will.
I should be able to measure/adjust this on the floor before the rear assy. is welded into the shell, at the moment the shell is just sitting on it.
Not much to report and no worthy pics tonight.
Trim, trim, trim, measure measure but the firewalls are getting closer together.
I have to start using my brayn now and work out which part of which firewall stays and which goes.
The brake booster holes line up so that's a bonus, the steering shaft might be a challenge?
Edited by rodomo, 04 October 2011 - 08:34 PM.
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