This happened.....
#26 _SLEDGE_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:49 PM
#27 _SLEDGE_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:54 PM
Tapers are identical HQ to Torana. I have the reamer to suit if it just needed a little tidy up. Since you are in Melbourne - it may be easier just to replace the stub if you see any damage.
Awesome, that's very kind of you!
I'll be giving it a look over tomorrow, and if it's needed I'll definitely take you up on that offer or try and find another stub axle.
#28
Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:47 PM
Wrong side of the country... but others might want some
I plan on doing an order closer to Xmas ... unless I need something for the Cad or work
#29 _LXSS350_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:56 PM
#30
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:13 PM
Most companies buy theirs from Roadsafe and rebox them as their own brands
Not a single one came with a hole drilled for a split pin or a castleated nut
They were all nylocs
I know they are out there... just still looking
#31 _76S.L.R_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:21 PM
God knows where I'll get proper Ball Joints with the holes and Castleated Nuts when I need to replace mine?,I'll be keeping an eye on this thread..............
Edited by 76S.L.R, 08 November 2011 - 09:22 PM.
#32
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:22 PM
I stand by what I've said.Not neccessarily.
#33 _Gunmetal LH_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:35 PM
An old bloke that looked like Elvis (funny as) in a small parts shop said if any of the TRW ones have nyloc nuts they're made during some sort of change-over in the company and are crap, or they're fake/reboxed.
Last time I checked they were just under $70 each at repco. Just got to find ones with the castellated nuts though...
Edited by Gunmetal LH, 08 November 2011 - 09:36 PM.
#34
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:55 PM
See my above remarks
Balljoints are easy... use Moogs
Tierod ends not so easy
But still looking
#35
Posted 08 November 2011 - 09:59 PM
Moog ball joints from Rock Auto are cheaper than most of the poor quality ball joints you can buy in Australia. You can get a full set of four delivered to your door in a couple of days for around USD $150.
#36
Posted 08 November 2011 - 10:22 PM
I stand by what I've said.
And I don't really care, you can stand where you want - and I disagree.
The nut clearly came loose before the taper released as there is no other way it could have happened.
For starters, even if there was no taper, it could not move until the point there was no little or no tension on the nut so there is no way a tapered joint could move whilst the nut is still tensioned.
I am surprised it wasn't more evident before the total failure though would have been a little bit of clunking going on.
#37
Posted 08 November 2011 - 10:26 PM
#38 _LXSS350_
Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:17 AM
#39 _CHOPPER_
Posted 09 November 2011 - 10:21 AM
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