No worries Mate I might give that a go..Forget trying to bridge the connections on the ignition switch, you'll probably blow more fuses than you can afford.
See if you can find a constant or ignition 'on' 12 volt connection inside the cabin, cigar lighter perhaps, and run a wire from that to a toggle or push button switch, from the switch connect up to the power out wire from the neutral start switch. Now you should be able to start the engine by turning the ignition switch to the ON position and flick or push the switch to activate the starter motor.

Vn injected 355 won't start
#51
_injlc304_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:45 PM
#52
_toranarama_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 10:51 PM
Mind you, those $15 a pop fuses weren't part of the plan !

#53
_injlc304_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:00 PM
#54
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:01 PM
#55
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:02 PM
More like $3.50
Edited by rodomo, 23 November 2011 - 11:02 PM.
#56
_toranarama_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:05 PM

#57
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:05 PM
Didn't know they were that expensive haha oh well. I should be able to use the 12v power wire from my head unit to power the push switch?
Is the head unit power supply fused and what rating is the fuse? 15amps at least I hope.
#58
_Quagmire_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:06 PM
#59
_injlc304_
Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:15 PM
Dunno about the power wire will look Tomoz after work.
#60
_injlc304_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 11:36 AM




so will get it tuned and worry about it when i get it back. Hopefully he knows a bit more and can figure it out.
#61
_injlc304_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 06:27 PM
#62
Posted 24 November 2011 - 06:36 PM
So Arrr I got home and put the isolator key in and the car started to crank over by its self?? Quickly switched off. And well.... It seems to be starting no problems now... Hmmm WTF??
LOL. Bloody Gremlins, they just love to stuff us around

#63
_injlc304_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 06:49 PM
#64
_toranarama_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 07:09 PM
#65
Posted 24 November 2011 - 07:10 PM
Haha here's a good 1 now it turns over when u put the indicator on? Haha what the hell is going on
#66
_injlc304_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 10:04 PM

why christine??
im thinking mabye paulene.. excuse me torana PLEASE EXPLAIN!!!!!!!
#67
_Quagmire_
Posted 24 November 2011 - 10:11 PM
#68
Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:58 AM
Anyway RYAN
You seems to be a few wiring /design /upgrade issues.
I put an injected motor into an LJ with a Wolf computor, which in reality only needs about 3 relays to link the LJ loom to the rest. And im only abit smart.
I went with the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) method.
You say the steering colom was in the car when you got it but did you wire the Delco in?
Did all the Torry wiring /dash/lights etc work ok before injection?
As with any wiring........ALL EARTHS MUST BE CLEAN & EARTHED!!
Hard to fault find without touching it.
Anyway good luck
PS.. i work for VB & Ballantines!
brillyant book ,,,,,jon carpenter stuffed this up big time
#69
_injlc304_
Posted 25 November 2011 - 08:10 AM
And sorry I dunno what your work is :-/ ?? Sorry
#70
_injlc304_
Posted 25 November 2011 - 10:00 AM

ill see what i can do this weekend and ill let you all know what happens. if not vb it is

#71
Posted 25 November 2011 - 10:41 AM
You say the starter now operates when you put the indicators on (left or right?). Do the indicators flash when you start the car with the ignition switch?
Also does the car have an immobiliser fitted.
I don't really know where I'm headed with this line of thought ATM but interested to know the answer.
Cheers
Dave.
#72
_injlc304_
Posted 25 November 2011 - 11:46 AM
na mate no immobiliser fitted. The whole car had been rewired by an auto sparky and appears to be a good job and all wires are hidden under the guards etc. The comp is the standard delco.
All these dramas have happened since i did the indicator light globes. Im gonna look into that area a bit more I think.
Why did it keep blowing globes/fuses I keep asking myself. Bad earths maybe? Im gonna remove all the lights check all the terminals and connections, earths, globes.. everything…
#73
_injlc304_
Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:10 PM
Now this is a long shot but could it be possible that the reverse lights/indicators are on the same globe(as I noticed they are duel filerment) and I also have the gearbox neutral switch wired up wrong and for some reason it is shorting out or something and because I have the neutral switch wired wrong it is giving it direct power to the starter via the reverse/turn lights when i turn the indicator on??
Edited by ryan_525, 25 November 2011 - 12:17 PM.
#74
Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:26 PM
Now this is a long shot but could it be possible that the reverse lights/indicators are on the same globe(as I noticed they are duel filerment) and I also have the gearbox neutral switch wired up wrong and for some reason it is shorting out or something and because I have the neutral switch wired wrong it is giving it direct power to the starter via the reverse/turn lights when i turn the indicator on??
What happens if you click it into reverse? What shifter etc are you running and can you easily access the wiring with a test light to see what happens before and after the switch...
I'd be tracing the wiring back from the starter motor and see where the problem may lie.
#75
_injlc304_
Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:36 PM
I’m not too sure what wires are where as it was starting in gear and the marshals at the drags I suppose you can say helped me with that (pulled the 4 wires off and mixed them around. Still started in gear after but they let me in anyways as I argued that you can start a manual in gear so whats the difference? But that is a linkage adjustment issue I believe)
And like I mentioned before I know the basics of the electric side of things but im not real strong with it. i'm sure there is some way to test what wires are which on the neutral switch and where it should be on it.
Edited by ryan_525, 25 November 2011 - 12:37 PM.
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