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Vn injected 355 won't start

Started by _injlc304_ , Nov 23 2011 07:14 PM

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#76 S pack

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Name:Dave
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Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:41 PM

Original fitment rear turn signal/reverse light globes are single filament not twin filament.
Maybe your car is different now it because it has been rewired and needs twin filament bulbs?

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#77 _injlc304_

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 12:50 PM

Yeah not too sure on that one. I know the front indicators double up as the park lights. The rear brake doubles up with the tail so Im just assuming the rear turn doubles with the reverse.

I know the LJ model changed its wiring set up so the park light is in the head light and turn is a turn only.

Defenatly an interesting one thats for sure.

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 06:17 PM

Yeah not too sure on that one. I know the front indicators double up as the park lights. The rear brake doubles up with the tail so Im just assuming the rear turn doubles with the reverse.

I know the LJ model changed its wiring set up so the park light is in the head light and turn is a turn only.

Defenatly an interesting one thats for sure.

Yes the LC & LJ rear indicators are also the reverse lights and they used a single filament bulb not a twin filament.
LC & '72 LJ had the park lights and indicators in the one housing and twin filament bulbs.
Very late '72 & all '73 & '74 LJ had the park lights in the headlamps & single filament bulbs for the indicators.

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#79 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 01:31 PM

So I've fixed all light connections and now every time I turn the key it pops the 40 amp fusible link? At $5 a pop it's starting to get annoying. Worst problem really is its stuck in the driveway of the tuners house about 50km away. I've got one last thing I want to try them I'm done. Is anyone in Perth a auto spark or know one that will have a look and won't rip me off cos I'm young??

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#80 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 02:27 PM

I meant to say this ages ago, try removing the brake / indicator/ parker bulbs then seeing if all is good.

Then by process of elimination, refit until something goes wonky ?

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 02:27 PM

in reverse the reverse lights dont come on and the starter doesnt turn over.

I’m not too sure what wires are where as it was starting in gear and the marshals at the drags I suppose you can say helped me with that (pulled the 4 wires off and mixed them around. Still started in gear after but they let me in anyways as I argued that you can start a manual in gear so whats the difference? But that is a linkage adjustment issue I believe)

Sounds like the helpful Marshall's may have caused all the drama's you are now experiencing.
Mixing up the neutral start wires with the reverse light wires would certainly stuff things up.

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#82 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 03:06 PM

^^^^^^^Wothejustaid !^^^^^^^^^

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#83 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 03:51 PM

Is there any test u can do with a test light or anything to see what is what on the neutral switch wires ??

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#84 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:09 PM

They should just be a negative grounding switch.

Can't stuff em up either way as it is just an earth = No power

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:24 PM

They should just be a negative grounding switch.

Can't stuff em up either way as it is just an earth = No power

?????

Neutral start switch and reverse light switch don't ground to anything. They simply allow/stop 12v current flow across their contacts.
The equipment they supply power to are grounded to complete the circuit.

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#86 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:28 PM

Alright well I've gotta load up on more fusible links then I'll try removing all the wires and see if I will get the key to acc without blowing the fuse. First though I want to check the ignition key barrel and clean all excess inox off to make sure it's not by somehow shorting out from there as that was the only thing that blew the fusible links before..

?????

Neutral start switch and reverse light switch don't ground to anything. They simply allow/stop 12v current flow across their contacts.
The equipment they supply power to are grounded to complete the circuit.

So out of the 4 wires 2 should have power? I for neutral switch the other for rev lights?

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#87 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:29 PM

They simply allow/stop 12v current flow across their contacts.
The equipment they supply power to are grounded to complete the circuit.

I think that would cause a short circuit wouldn't it ?

INOX is oxygen FREE - That's why it's soooooooooooooooo GOOD !

If you were just down the road this drama would've been over in less than 60 mins >lol<

Edited by toranarama, 26 November 2011 - 04:30 PM.

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:40 PM

I think that would cause a short circuit wouldn't it ?

No.

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#89 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:42 PM

I wish I was just down the road. Oh well I'm not doing another trip back today so I guess I research a bit more and go back Tomoz And have another crack

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#90 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:45 PM

No.

Was a >joke< because of the way you worded it

Positive + an earth = short

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:50 PM

So out of the 4 wires 2 should have power? I for neutral switch the other for rev lights?

Yes.
One of the reverse light wires should have constant 12v.
One of the neutral start wires should have 12v power only when the ignition switch is turned to the start position.
The other wires then feed the power to the starter motor and through the indicator switch to the reverse lights via the normal rear indicator wires.

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:53 PM

Was a >joke< because of the way you worded it

Positive + an earth = short

Sorry Mate, didn't pick up on that.
Cheers
Dave.

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#93 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:57 PM

If you've got the colour coding from a book, you could tell him what wires correspondingly match to each other ?

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#94 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:58 PM

Sweet im on to it ;-) wicked well I've got a bit more to go off now.

Just gotta keep reasonablly sober at speedway tonight so I've got a clear head when I do this

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#95 _toranarama_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 05:00 PM

Just gotta keep reasonablly sober at speedway tonight so I've got a clear head when I do this

pffffffffft..... ya rookie !

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#96 _injlc304_

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 05:06 PM

pffffffffft..... ya rookie !

Haha.

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 09:20 PM

Yes.
One of the reverse light wires should have constant 12v.
One of the neutral start wires should have 12v power only when the ignition switch is turned to the start position.
The other wires then feed the power to the starter motor and through the indicator switch to the reverse lights via the normal rear indicator wires.

Oops, slight correction.

One of the reverse light wires should have 12v with the ignition switch in the ON position.

If the car has been rewired using the original colour coding then the neutral start wires are both VIOLET and the reverse switch wires are LIGHT GREEN and DARK GREEN.

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#98 _injlc304_

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 02:11 PM

Alright I was kind of right with the ignition barrel. It was just touching the steering colum and that's why it was blowing the fusible links. All the lights work now and the car starts I've just gotta look into the neutral switch a bit more. You had to put your foot on the brake for it to start?? Haha what the? Good safety measure any ways. Used a test light and only 1 of the 4 wires had any sort of power to it which was only on acc. Main thing is it starts so it can get tuned and when he has finished I'll bring it home and show some pics of the neutral switch wires etc. And try figure that out. Main thing is it starts and all the lights are working. Thanks all for the help and I'll keep you posted in a few days to let you know what's happening

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 04:35 PM

Alright I was kind of right with the ignition barrel. It was just touching the steering colum and that's why it was blowing the fusible links. All the lights work now and the car starts I've just gotta look into the neutral switch a bit more. You had to put your foot on the brake for it to start?? Haha what the? Good safety measure any ways. Used a test light and only 1 of the 4 wires had any sort of power to it which was only on acc. Main thing is it starts so it can get tuned and when he has finished I'll bring it home and show some pics of the neutral switch wires etc. And try figure that out. Main thing is it starts and all the lights are working. Thanks all for the help and I'll keep you posted in a few days to let you know what's happening

Well done